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As you have reasonable access to the nut, I'd suggest using a nut splitter to split the nut and open it out, which should then allow you to withdraw the bolt and remove the parts - obviously both nut and bolt will need to be replaced, but you'd already worked that out!


Based on the pictures, I don't see any options besides cutting the bolt in half. A grinder wheel would make light work of cutting the bolt, but you may have to resort to a more primitive approach, i.e. a hacksaw.


I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


Couldnt you drill the head off to be able to get some stuff out of the way, cut the bolt further down, drill a center hole with a small bit and proceed drilling away the remaining stub?... You have to grab the bolt from behind so it wont keep turning but it might work. (hard to say from the pictures but I have the impression that once cut down the bolt ...


I was in a similar situation (car, not a bike) once and I didn't know about nut splitters (see Nick C answer) at that time. I was able to get at the nut with a Dremel and a very small (1" diameter) cutting disk with a flexible extension between the Dremel and the disk. With the disk I was able to slice diagonally across the nut (couldn't get the angle to ...


Given the good vertical access to the bolt, I'd cut it off with a sawzall using a fine hacksaw blade.


I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does. This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.


I highly recommend that you find yourself a shop manual for the bike. These are available in hard copy version, and sometimes in PDF format as well. It will make it clear how to perform various operations, and make it less likely that you will do it wrong. I highly recommend that you do not mess with any of the gears. Transmissions run at very tight ...


There is usually a generic specification depending on diameter and material. Genuine service manuals will have half page or so on common bolt and screw sizes but you may have to hunt for it as it could be in specifications, servicing or somewhere else Grade 4 bolts will snap way below the minimum torque for grade 8 of same diameter Metric use slightly ...


Each manufacturer will probably have it's own system for them, unfortunately. For my 1970's Triumph, I had to get hold of a parts book for the car, then a separate Fasteners list to cross-reference from the OEM part number to the actual bolt size. Even if you can guess the diameter & pitch from the torque rating, you probably won't be able to guess the ...


I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


If the bolt is turning inside of the nut, that would indicate to me the threads are stripped either on the bolt or the nut (duh, right?). If you can get a third hand to help you, you'll need it for what I have proposed. If you can place a flat tip screwdriver on the tip of the bolt and pry it back towards the nut, then hold the nut with your wrench (spanner),...


In the last picture it looks like damaged threads sticking out, so my guess is that you're correct that it is stripped there. If you can have a helper spin the bolt (ideally with an impact wrench) while you hold the nut with a wrench and pry on the tip of the bolt (toward the bolt axis in the direction to remove it), perhaps the area of intact threads will ...


I had to look it up as I've never heard of an AG200 but I know what TW125/200 is If your looking under the right side engine cover, lock the clutch and primary drive gear with a penny between teeth, it's easier than trying to use the special tool you need but don't have Make sure you don't use the oil pump drive gear as it is too small for the load and ...

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