Hot answers tagged noise
9
The main cause of a squeaky belt is the rubber has stretched causing a reduction in friction allowing the slippage to occur.
There are two ways to solve the problem:
Tighten the belt by using the appropriate tensioning technique (generally loosening the bolt that hold the pulleys in position, realigning the now-loosened pulley & retightening the ...
6
It shouldn't be possible for gravel to get caught in the brake itself, but it could get caught in the brake caliper mounting bracket(s) or between the brake caliper and the wheel, the latter especially if you've installed bigger brakes or different-sized wheels.
To be certain: look for scoring or other damage to your braking surfaces — that is, to your ...
6
Yes, at least half of the exhaust is coming straight out of that gap without passing through the muffler. As you've noted, this leads to an increase in noise (or music, depending on your taste).
To my eye, that looks like a hassle to fix on your own. There appears to be the rusted remnants of two bolts holding the Y-pipe to the passenger side muffler and ...
5
Another way is to jack up (and support) the car, then attempt to shake the wheel. Hold it at top and bottom and try and shake it vertically, then repeat horizontally. There should be very little, if any, play in it.
As Dude318is says, a grainy feeling when rotating is another way to tell.
5
Easy way to check is remove each wheel, and rotate the disc. If you can remove the disc as well to get closer to the hub that would be even better. If the bearing rotates but not smoothly (i.e. having a sandy/grainy feeling) then that is likely the culprit. This is how I was able to track down a worn rear wheel bearing on my car.
4
Upon examination it became immediately obvious what the issue was; the front passenger sway bar link had snapped off at the top, losing its head and both top bushings. The clunk was presumably caused by the remnants of the sway bar link (still attached to the lower control arm) impacting the sway bar during turns with bumps or inclines.
A replacement sway ...
4
That is probably knocking, or premature detonation. It's a little hard on the motor. It's likely that you should be in a lower gear or ease off the throttle whenever you hear it. It is probably normal for that car. Higher octane gas might help, but it's not good for the car to drive in too high a gear.
4
When the steering wheel is at the end of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise
At max travel, the steering pump will produce its maximum pressure and will have to work the hardest. This will create a "hissing" type noise.
When the fluid level is low, then you will hear the pump moaning ...
3
Your AC drain may be stopped up. Your AC evaporator condenses water when the warm moist air passes over it, this happens in the normal operation of the AC. There is a drain that is suppose to drain the water outside the car, when it gets stopped up water collects in the evaporator case under the dash, it will eventually drain somewhere, most likely on your ...
3
It could be incorrectly torqued wheels, loose disc brake calipers, brake pad shims, suspension pieces loading/unloading from the weight shift. If they just did the tires, take it back and tell them to take a look (for free).
Try slowing the car down with the engine. If it's manual, just downshift. If it is automatic, shift the selector to one of the lower ...
3
I happen to have the same experience as you when sitting in my 1998 Honda Accord after it has been shut off. The humming sound lasts 5-6 seconds, and it can be 5 to 10 minutes apart. The noise is definitely coming from underneath the car ahead of the rear wheels, not from the engine. I have also noticed that I have never heard the noise in the winter, ...
3
First, I think you're changing gear way to early if you're changing up from 3rd to 4th at 2000rpm, especially when the engine is under load. There's a reason the redline is higher than that :). You're not really doing yourself a favour with that, and neither are you doing the engine a favour.
Knock or pinging is usually caused by the fuel burning ...
3
One cause of pops is unburnt fuel hitting the exhaust manifold - many engines use fuel to cool the cylinder when you lift off, so this sprayed excess then burns as it hits hot metal in the exhaust.
The burble on overrun is usually caused by ignition timing being retarded.
Aside from those, any valve or gasket leaks could also cause pops.
3
That does sound very likely - it could be bearings, or as the volume increases when the wheel is turned it may be the universal joint.
Get your car propped up securely and spin the front wheels by hand. You may be able to hear or even feel whereabouts the problem is.
In any case, your local garage will be able to diagnose this very quickly and easily.
3
You most likely have air in the system, I had the same issue with my 99 Blazer. It seemed as no matter how much I bled it it I couldn't get rid of it.
Raise the front of the vehicle make sure that the right side is a bit higher than the left. This will ensure that the highest point in the system is the radiator cap.
Remove the radiator cap and start the ...
2
Assuming the belt has correct tension and still squeaks it's rare to find anything more than a short term solution, other than replacing it.
However, if you really want to give something a try, most industrial suppliers can sell you a can of "belt grip" compound, which is sprayed onto the contact surfaces of the belt and/or pulleys while they're rotating ...
2
If you don't have time to deal with it you can try the belt dressing, but I do not recommend it. I've had it happen plenty of times and it has been caused by improper tensioning (too loose). Find out what the proper deflection should be using your shop manual (a must have for proper diy maintenance) and set it. You can purchase a gage, but in my experience ...
2
The reason the oil light is coming on is because the oil pressure in the engine does fall low enough for the oil pressure switch to trigger. After all, it's a pressure warning light and not an oil level warning light. It's not unknown for these switches to go bad but given that it's accompanied by engine noise, I would very much work on the assumption that ...
2
William Cline has a point. When I worked at BMW, it was common for customers to have small pebbles caught in between the inboard side of the rotor and the dust shield. This would grind until the pebble wore out, or it was removed. Often the rotor would experience slight wear from the rubbing, but nothing to crazy.
2
I am a GM mechanic with 25 years experience working on GM vehicles . I recently road tested a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze with a clicking noise from the right rear while braking . After having the rear drums off a couple of times, I found that the Gray grease installed at the factory on the rear backing plates had been missed in a couple of spots. The grease was a ...
2
Returned from dealer - this was their report:
"clicking" noise from the R/R of the vehicle when slowing down. The technician road tested the vehicle and verified the concern. Found the rear brake shoes grabbing the drum causing minor grooves in the drum, also the technician found some grease on the backing plate. Cleaned off the grease and cleaned the brake ...
2
Try putting the car in neutral when you can hear the noise. If it goes away, it might be the transmission or some part of the drive train.
Push and pull on the top of the front right tire pretty hard and see if you can feel any looseness. If so, it's probably the wheel bearing / hub. But sometimes the wheel bearings go out and still feel tight.
2
What came to mind reading this is on my car there is what you could describe as a "hum" when you put the key to ON without actually starting the engine that goes for a few seconds, then repeats every once in a while.
On my vehicle it is a vacuum pump that is maintaining pressure in the vacuum system for the accessories that have been enabled by the key ...
2
The universal joints.If they are really bad you may be able to see signs of rust on them or if you are under the vehicle.You can also grip the drive shaft while the car is supported on jackstands and the rear tires off the ground and see if you can push/pull it and look for movement.If you twist the driveshaft by hand you may be able to feel the click in the ...
2
I have similar symptoms when my sway bar bushings need lubrication. There's a distinct sensation at low speeds where dumps will cause relatively sedate deflections and rotations of the bars. The bushings will briefly bind, release, bind, release, etc. in fairly quick succession. It can sound like a pop - clunk if it's just once catch and release.
This ...
2
Have you checked the Power steering pump/fluid level? I own a 2003 stream and heard a slightly heavier whining noise similarly tied to engine speed. You could try turning the steering end to end while engine is idling and listen. In my case it turned out to be a defective power steering hose.
2
I would suspect axle bearings more than U joints. Drive shaft noises usually don't change when moving left or right. You can check the axle seals for leaks. If the bearing is bad many times it moves enough to wear the seal. You can also check the axle housing for a temperature difference after a highway speed ride. It doesnot have to be an actual measurement ...
2
After some deeper research, I have found that the cause is a worn thowout bearing. I also see that if this is to get replaced, it is wise to spend a few more $$ and replace the clutch as well as the labor to get at the bearing is the same as clutch replacment. So I guess I will be replacing both.
2
If it is more of a squeel than a whistle you may have spilled antifreeze on to the serpentine belt. The anti freeze is making the belt slip. Is the smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe or off the pipes in the engine bay? If anti freeze was spilled onto the manifold and pipes it will smoke until it burns off.
2
I don't think it's likely to be the source of your noise, but in the frequently helpful spirit of "check the last thing you touched," you may want to look at your power steering fluid level. Low fluid can make for noisy PS systems, and if you just had the system open, it's worth checking. Maybe the system was incompletely bled when you topped up the PS ...
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