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Check the rpms on it when on idle , it sounds like could be loosing power, could be spark plugs, or your ac compressor might be defective and applies a hold down on the engine and causes week air into brake booster n so when u apply brakes+ steer+ ac rpms drop


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I asked around, and here was one response from an car audio specialist: The future is the XM network, so basically the Sirius network is 'as-is' and only providing limited hardware. The SCC1 tuner is discontinued and it is required for the Sirius kits. It looks like the ISNI572 kit should work with your Altima, provided it doesn't already ...


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Two things to look for here. First, it could be that there is a cut in the antenna wire somewhere, so that it is shorting (both sides of the wire coming in contact with each other). Second, it may not be plugged in all the way to the back of the head unit.


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This is a typical case in the computer industry of fixed while troubleshooting. Not much else to be said.


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It won't turn off - Tells you the light switch is bad. Get a new one.


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The first place to look for the headlights would be the fuse panel(s). Often there are two: one inside the passenger compartment, either at the driver or passenger kick panel or on the side of the dash where the door covers the dash on the driver side. The other is the engine compartment (in a black plastic box--diagram will be on the inside cover or on the ...


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The width should be the same width as the one you are replacing. If you don't, it will mess with the stability of your vehicle, how the tire wears, and could possibly (down the line) cause tire failure ... That's probably a little over dramatic, but a possibility. This is, of course if you are just replacing one wheel. If you are replacing them all, width is ...


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As @ Paulster2 has stated you need to determine where the sensor is leaking. I would focus my concerns on the oil pressure sensor very soon. The oil sending unit is under pressure, the oil pan is merely a container for the oil.The oil pump has the capacity to empty all the oil out of the engine in less than a minute at high rpm. If the oil sending unit were ...


4

An oil leak where you see a drip form, but it doesn't drip is not an immediate problem. If this is something you don't want to fix right away, there shouldn't be a huge issue. There are two concerns: Keep a close eye on the oil and ensure it stays topped off. You'll want to check it a little more often than you would under normal circumstances so as to ...


1

If you're confident at general mechanics, and fancy having a go, why not get hold of a second-hand transmission, swap that into the car, then have a go at rebuilding the original? That way, if you do screw it up, or it turns out to be unfixable, you're not stuck as you've got the replacement in the car...


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While I would love to tell you to just go for it!, in the case of an automatic transmission I really cannot. It's not something the average Joe can tackle with any kind of confidence and complete successfully. Even with a good rebuild manual, it's not something you want to do uninitiated. That said, it sounds as though (besides the problem with the vacuum ...


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(NOTE: Since @MikeSaull didn't put his answer down, I'll answer for him) Try pulling the battery cables off for 30 minutes. This will reset the computer back to factory specs and hopefully will solve your issue. Pull the negative battery post off and not the positive, as this can have adverse effects.


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Follow the admins advice. You want to use the process of elimination. Its a hydraulic system with seals and it works like a two way car jack. The steering wheel column is simply a big joint and connects directly to it. A wheel as handle bars, the pistons are pushed through a liquid filled tight cylinder, your power steering rack sealed at the rubber end ...


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Yes, that ATF should work just fine. That is what is specified for the vehicle.


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In the top picture, the round thing which is to the bottom right of the image looks like the power steering fluid reservoir. In the bottom picture, this looks like the return line (what you have annotated), which should be attached to the reservoir. You need to clean/inspect these areas to see where your fluid is coming from. If just the connection to the ...


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I think the basis for the replacement of the strut is really up to two things: How old are the current struts? If old, can you afford to replace them, or is just replacing the boot more economical for you? If the struts are the original struts which came on the car, it may not do any harm to just change them out. To change out the boot alone will incur ...


3

Sounds like a leak or a burst hose or pipe. Modern braking systems have a safety feature that lets you use some brakes even if a hose burst, so that would explain why only the front brakes seems to take. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_brake#Component_specifics) the FMVSS Standard 105, 1976; requires the master cylinder is divided internally ...


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I can think of three scenarios which may be causing your issue: As @amphibient stated, the synchro may be going bad This could also be due to poor shifting technique. If you don't press the clutch down all the way, you may find yourself grinding gears. If you release the clutch too soon during the shift, you are going to see the same. If you have a weak ...


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I have the same problem with my Tacoma when shifting from the 2nd into the 3rd. The reason in my, and more than likely your case as well are bad syncro rings and the only fix pretty much is to take the gearbox out and either replace the whole thing or rebuild the syncros.



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