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There are really two related questions here: How is the engine constructed (timing belt vs. timing chain), and What is the service interval on the belt or chain. As has been pointed out there are design tradeoffs. Chains, in general, tend to last longer. Belts, in general, are quieter and might be easier and/or less expensive to change. The service ...


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The engine in your Primera should be the QR25DE. According to the Wiki page, it should be equipped with a steel timing chain, not a belt. Your mechanic is spot on. Timing chains are usually good for the life of the engine (rare occasions otherwise). A timing belt/chain connects the camshaft and crankshaft together, making them work as one. The camshaft ...


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It's under the hood on the right side of engine compartment. Unplug the connector, figure out which side is the computer controlled ground. Backprobe the ground wire. put a vacuum pump on it and ground the solenoid. Do this when the engine is hot and do it several times. Check per tsb ntb05-053 as well. It covers harness rub through by the wiper motor ...


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I thought so...Ran into the same a while back: There's a recall for both cam and crank sensor premature failures on the 2.5L and it looks like the same sensors. New ones have a metal shell instead of being all plastic. Turns out there's a recall for the '03 350Z's too: http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Nissan/350Z/#2003 Bottom of the list: 2003 ...


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Could be stretched timing chains or a problem with the vvt gear, stretched chains will give an incorrect reading between the cam sensor and the crank sensor (essentially engine is out of time) and will usually fail to start once stretched to far, if the correlation between cps and crank sensor if different for I think 5 seconds car will not start Could also ...


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Cats don't really like exposure to fuel. If your car has bad coils resulting in unburnt fuel, this can ruin a cat, hence how they are related.


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If you're smelling exhaust in the cabin, it's not due to an air leak, but an exhaust leak. You could be having some issues there if your leak is prior to the O2 sensor in your exhaust pipe. Your ECU would think you have too much air in the mix, therefore making you run rich and flooding the engine so it won't start. Check your O2 sensor and inspect for ...


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It was the wheel bearing which was causing the problem.


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Drive shaft is if your engine works, you can switch every gear, but the car won't go anywhere, might be stopping when engage a clutch. Drive shaft has nothing to do with engine or gearbox, so they should stay intact if it is a driveshaft.


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The parts labelled RING-BAULK (32604 in your image) are the synchronizers. Do a search for Baulk Ring and you will find some descriptions. For example - https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=DoYaRsNFlEYC&pg=PA286&lpg=PA286&dq=BAULK+ring&source=bl&ots=3PXYSDFriB&sig=WHMXOOAG06AIShqixrw1w1K1hro&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiszKbql-...


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The problem, as @SteveRacer suggested, was caused by a faulty camshaft angle/position sensor. Everything we had read about that sensor said the engine would not start or would immediately die if it was bad, so we didn't think to check it. After replacing with a known good part, the engine runs much better and builds boost, but is still running a little ...


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What's making the clicking Although there might be other things going on, due to the symptoms, its probably the starter solenoid. When your key turns in the ignition, it completes a relatively light circuit between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid in turn snaps two contacts together completing a much larger circuit between the battery and the ...



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