New answers tagged nissan
Id be leaning toward an ignition problem. If theres an ignition control module, or something similar that controls the spark by taking readouts on various ignition and engine sensors, that's where I'd start. If the problem gets worse as engine warms, but seems fine when cold, that also indicates an electronic problem. As the part fails further, it will go ...
Synchronizers are friction devices. They are most commonly made out of brass although other materials may be used. Brass is a soft metal and as it wears down the power it produces would not damage other components. The synchronizer resembles two cones that fit one inside the other. One cone is attached to the blocking ring and the other to the gear train. ...
Your BCM receives the signal Nissan uses what is called a BCM or body control module. The BCM on your car controls the following Security (key fob synchronization, door locks) Turn signals Wipers Audio System Lights (internal/external) Anti-lock brakes There are other attributes as well not on my list but to answer your question, it's the BCM.
For the remote entry receiver see number 11 in the diagram below. The interior key antenna is located under the center console number 13 and inputs to the body control module seen in number 1 of the diagram.
You will want to use a vacuum pump to remove any remaining air in your system Using a hand vacuum pump, you can get a low end one, will remove the frustration of bleeding brakes with two people. One to pump the brake one to open the bleeding nipple on the calipers and master cylinder. If your pedal is going to the floor after servicing your hydraulic ...
I am not sure how to do it yourself, but companies such as KP Technologies make modules to do almost all of the functions you would like to use. Note: I am in no way affiliated with this company, nor have I ever tried their product, but I have seen them mentioned on various forums.
On my son's 2005 Altima he was having to jump start it frequently. The battery tested good. The local mechanic said the alternator was bad so I replaced it with a rebuilt from AutoZone. Charge light never came on.Same problem, every day or so a jump start was required. Thinking the battery may be testing good but actually be bad I replaced it with the ...
If you don't have a stethoscope or a screw driver or similar that you can use as one. Pull the belt off, put some tension on one pulley at a time and spin them by hand any roughness indicates bearing/bushing failure. You can probably rule out the compressor pulley as the noise doesn't change as the clutch engages. Idler pulleys are the most likely to fail ...
There'd be no way to tell for sure if something was frying them, but would suggest to you this would be highly unlikely. It is completely within reason for the rebuilt alternator to have gone bad ... that's why they have a warranty. Yes, it's a PITB to take on and off, but at least it didn't cost you anymore than an extra trip to the store.
The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...
For starters, here is a link with all the OEM sunroof info: sunroof I'd recommend doing the dis/re-assembly again. This time, following every instruction to the tee. Then, do the reset again following it to the tee. Once you've done that, test it. If it still doesn't work it would point a big finger toward the motor being bad. Per the diagram and ...
There is a long bolt underneath that the alternator pivots on to adjust drive belt tension. If you are sure you have this out, the alternator is simply cocked on the mounting ears and jammed. It may take some wiggling and gentle persuasion.
Different year same engine. Your image Loosen the idler pulley nut. And per the posted image loosen the adjuster to remove the belt. You don't have to remove the AC compressor to R&R the alternator on the 1.8. You can remove the fan shroud to access the lower bolt on the alternator and pull the alternator through the top.
Try to get hold of a workshop manual; failing that, a Chiltons or Haynes manual for that car. I've just checked the Haynes, and it does show the Alternator replacement in some detail. A couple of major hints; firstly, you get much better access going in through the passenger wheel-well. Take the wheel off, and the plastic shield between the wheel-well and ...
Based off this diagram, the adjusting bolt is not present in the pictures you provided: It looks like your Sentra has air-conditioning, which means that your belt tensioning mechanism sits above the power steering pump (leftmost belt-driven component).
Yes the tensioner is to the left of the alternator - in the pictures above. Slightly loosen the main bolt on the tensioner - not too much. This will allow you to loosen the adjustment rod BEHIND the tensioner, which creates slack and loosens the belt. You should be able to see it - it will look like a threaded rod. Probably a good time to replace the belt ...
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