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12

The first thing I would check is the blower motor resistor. This device will usually be located near the blower motor under the dash, and will have an electrical connector with 4 to 5 wires coming out of it. It's job is to add more resistance to current flow with each lower speed. It really just 3 resisters wired in series all inside one component. High (...


7

Are you talking about the in-cabin air filter, or the engine air filter? In either case, the answer is no. I mean you can do it, but the filter will not work like it is supposed to afterwards. The reason for this is they are made of paper. When you get them wet like you are suggesting, it destroys the element. As to the why you have to change them, once ...


7

The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...


6

Usually the bolts that strut braces attach to are the ones that attach the strut assembly to the car. The spring is held in place in the strut assembly by the nut in the middle, which I have never needed to remove to install any strut braces. See how the brace below has a hole in the middle for the top shock nut: This shock nut holds the upper spring ...


6

The weight of the car will be sufficient to keep the spring from decompressing fully and pulling out the bottom of the strut frame in the car. You must be careful not to jack the car up without the bolts secured tightly though, this could produce a dangerous situation. Also if you are ever working on the 'southern' half of the spring, where it interacts ...


6

Firstly, You should not pump the brakes with any of the pads missing - as you have discovered, this results in the pistons being forced out of the calipers! You probably then found that the piston wasn't quite square in the caliper, and re-settled once you had removed it. I take it you have now removed the offending caliper from the car? (if not, do so now ...


6

My process is generally: - 70-80 mph = coast to 60 - 50-60 mph = switch overdrive off, RPMs jump to ~3500, engine brake to 25 - 20-25 mph = shift from "D" (assuming 3rd gear here) to "L" (assuming 1st and 2nd) This gets me down to about 10 mph, and I've never seen the RPMs go anywhere close to red line. If this is your procedure, you're well ...


6

If you are looking for a reasonable price and original (used) quality, I would try a pick 'n' pull type of place. Are you sure that the armrest is made to come off of the door panel? There may be a reason they only sell the door panel ...


6

The only thing I see of any real concern here would be the left rear toe - it's off enough to possibly cause some tire wear. However, since it can't be adjusted, your best bet is to just rotate the tires regularly (every other oil change is a good rule of thumb) and keep an eye out for wear. You didn't say which Nissan you're driving, but I'm assuming it's ...


6

You will be able to get the pigtail from the dealer. It's the connector and about 12 inches of wire. They are used to repair harnesses.


6

Most vehicles with a standard transmission now use a hydraulic clutch. The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and a slave cylinder. It works in a similar manner as your brakes. Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to ...


6

It's not a huge deal. The biggest thing you'd be looking for is if there is leakage from there. It's not going to be causing any running issues or any such. I think the biggest thing would be if the stick was fitting deeper into the hole and giving you a false reading as far as oil level. If it's too low in the hole, it would appear you'd have more oil ...


6

It really looks like it's down to the switch, if the high beams work normally (Not just using flash to pass) and both low beams quit at the same time, and you are positive the bulbs are good. The one thing that can fail that would take out both low beams is the switch. Everything in yellow below is good based on your description of what works. The pink ...


6

For starters, here is a link with all the OEM sunroof info: sunroof I'd recommend doing the dis/re-assembly again. This time, following every instruction to the tee. Then, do the reset again following it to the tee. Once you've done that, test it. If it still doesn't work it would point a big finger toward the motor being bad. Per the diagram and ...


5

It could be your thermostat - if it is not reading temperatures properly it may not trigger your fan until temperatures get really high. Being stationary with the engine running is usually the time when this can happen, as there is no cooling airflow until the fan comes on. Run the engine with the bonnet (hood for US-ians) and see when the fan starts - is ...


5

You asked It's completely stuck! What should I do? @paulster2 has very salient points I believe through experience there is a very high likelihood that the piston is cocked in the bore of the caliper. My suggestion is that you pop it out of the caliper and inspect the seal and the bore. Many times we do more damage than we undo. A cocked piston is ...


5

Pinging is caused by one of several different reasons. It is usually a hot spot in the combustion chamber which is causing the issue. A hot spot is usually made of carbon buildup, the edges of which get hot very easily, will glow red as such, and will ignite the air/fuel mixture. If a hot spot is present, it will pre-ignite the air/fuel mixture during ...


5

If the vehicle has GDI (Gasoline direct injection) then yes there will be a low pressure or lift pump and a high pressure pump. One run on 12 volt the other run by the engine. I don't think your vehicle is equipped with GDI but I am not sure. I am not aware of any gasoline production vehicles other than GDI that come equipped with more than one fuel pump.


5

Possibilities include: Oil spilled on exhaust during the Oil Change (as mentioned in the comments by DucatiKiller). This can be new oil from filling, or old oil from the drain and/or filter replacement. Overfilling with replacement oil can result in burn-off. Check the oil level, check multiple reliable sources for the correct fill amount, and check the ...


5

Not familiar with your vehicle/engine specifically, but familiar with carbed engines in general. I would think the #1 thing to look at would be the choke. Pumping before starting a carb vehicle is normal. It gives it a squirt of fuel and sets the choke. The low RPM indicates that the high idle is not set, which likely means the choke is not set also. ...


5

Check the tension on the serpentine belts at the front of the engine - sounds like they're a tad loose. It may be something else, but start there.


5

Try to get hold of a workshop manual; failing that, a Chiltons or Haynes manual for that car. I've just checked the Haynes, and it does show the Alternator replacement in some detail. A couple of major hints; firstly, you get much better access going in through the passenger wheel-well. Take the wheel off, and the plastic shield between the wheel-well and ...


5

Your BCM receives the signal Nissan uses what is called a BCM or body control module. The BCM on your car controls the following Security (key fob synchronization, door locks) Turn signals Wipers Audio System Lights (internal/external) Anti-lock brakes There are other attributes as well not on my list but to answer your question, it's the BCM.


4

I would find someone else to check out and fix the airbag, while this guy might be great at fixing other things on your car I wouldn't let him touch the airbags. if needed it would deploy Possibly depending on what the code is however it might not. He said that to turn the light off would require removing a few electrical components This ...


4

http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf That should help ;) Not sure where you can find a universal wiring kit though. The aftermarket headunit should have a small diagram on it as well.


4

Sputtering like out of gas sounds like a fuel issue to me. If it is the fuel, you can test the fuel pressure. If the pressure drops when the car dies, that would indicate the fuel pump, pressure regulator or fuel filter may be bad or clogged. The tachometer flipping around throws me for a loop. Not sure what that indicates. Is it actually flipping back and ...


4

There are only a few parts in play here. The reverse light switch in/on the transmission, the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, the tail lamp assembly, and the lightbulb itself. I would check the bulb first. If the filament is broken in just the right way, it can cause the flashing symptoms that you're experiencing. The part number for the bulb is 3156 (...


4

Replacing shocks on a 1994 vehicle sounds fairly reasonable (assuming that they were the original shocks). I tend to agree with the alignment shop that you needed to replace those before doing anything else. I replaced my wife's struts not too long ago and one was completely collapsed - on her car, that has a distinct effect on the camber of the wheel. In ...


4

It's possible that your battery has enough charge to light the headlights and dash, but not enough to turn the starter. Typically though in this case you will hear some sort of click when you turn the ignition to "start." Your description says you hear nothing, however. That points me to consider that some sort of an electrical interlock (safety system) is ...


4

If you can get all 4 to lock at the same time then systems that detect differences between wheels won't activate. The system would have to be smart enough to detect exceptionally fast stopping of the wheels in order to work in that circumstance. My MR2 and Eclipse are definitely not that smart. Both are very capable of locking all 4 at the same time and ...



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