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tl;dr: I can't find any evidence that removing the catalytic converters on this model will improve the car. It will definitely confuse the ECU (and obviously pollute more). I've looked hard for any dyno sheets that show any concrete evidence that cat delete alone will add power. Removing the cats is something that I would almost never recommend outside of ...


4

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


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Do a load test on the battery. You will need a multimeter or voltmeter and a fully charged battery. Connect the meter leads to the battery posts (positive with positive and negative with negative). Put the meter where you can see while starting the car (on the windshield laying down works). Make note of how many volts does the meter read with the car OFF. ...


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Your description sounds very much like the battery is totally dead and needs replacing. When you jump lead a car, you are replacing the installed battery with the one from the other car for starting the engine. Once the engine is running, all the cars electrical functions will be running from electricity generated by the alternator. At this point, a ...


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It's probably the terrible stock speakers. Upgrade your speakers or put in a subwoofer if you want bass.


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When you first turn your vehicle on, the vehicle itself does a "Power On Self Test" or POST. When you turn your key from off to the run position (before you start it up), all of the dash lights which are usable will light up. You should get used to which ones light up and keep those in the back of your memory. If a bulb should go out, you'll notice the ...


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Three separate areas which the codes are pointing to. Let's run them down one by one ... P1000 On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Monitor/Driver Cycle Test Not Complete Causes are - The battery or PCM has been disconnected (Ford,Mazda) The diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared (Ford,Mazda) An OBD monitor concern occured before completion of ...


2

You may want to think about getting it fixed vs. ignoring it. In this case, the problem is more than likely in the solenoid which directs air from the pump to the cat. Depending on the exact malfunction, you could be seeing decreased fuel mileage and also damaging your catalytic convertor. There are some reasonable tests which were written up on ...


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Mold needs moisture and darkness to grow Pull the car out into the driveway and roll down the windows Sunlight will kill whatever is exposed Get this stuff https://moldzyme.com/ It works best when atomized - a sprayer can get close Remove the cabin air filter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTcTbUux2o Run the HEATER at full blast and spray the car with ...


2

I have the following information from a good source (done many swaps himself): He believes the '68 Mustang came stock with the 302, so the front suspension should be just fine. When he did swaps before on the earlier Mustangs, they would drop the v8 in and never think twice about changing the front end stuff. You can get heavier duty suspension/steering ...


2

Based on the codes, I'd say race fever's spot on: P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0116 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0304 - Cylinder #4 Misfire Detected P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2) Explanation I believe what's happening is the coolant temperature sensor is giving no ...


2

I believe you have a bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT in Ford nomenclature). The code P0116,the smell of gas, and the rough idle are all symptoms of a bad ECT. Its Ford's part number F5AF-12A648-AA. Get the OEM part. Its about $25. Be careful replacing it because your car has a plastic intake manifold that tends to break.


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Check the transmission mount, which is at the rear of the transmission (where the drive line yoke attaches to output shaft). Often times if you've gotten on the accelerator a little bit and do some hard shifting you can easily break the mount (or more likely after several times of doing this it will start splitting then finally give up and break). This is a ...


2

The catalytic converter is there to make your exhaust cleaner. It does nothing critical to the proper running of the engine itself. If you remove it, all that will happen is that you'll get dirtier exhaust and an error code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)), which is to be expected because the "catalyst system" has been removed. ...


2

Engine control systems on most common vehicles do not have sensors of any type in each cylinder. This means that engine computer does not have the information to pass on to the software you seek. Some info can be deduced from the available sensor data. Misfire is required by regulation to be reported per cylinder, although it is not required in all ...


1

The white smoke coming from your exhaust may indicate that you have water leaking from your coolant system through the head gasket into the combustion chamber. The water will be burnt with the fuel causing vapour coming from your exhaust. As for the oil leak perhaps it may not be coming from the exhaust and may be coming from the rocker cover gasket or ...


1

According to this website, the torque capacity of the 4R70W is 700 lb-ft ... looks like Ford didn't skimp like Chevrolet did with their 4L60e, lol (about 400 lb-ft capacity). You should not have an issue with the transmission unless the transmission already has an issue. $2000 rebuild budget is what I'd consider a budget rebuild budget. You really aren't ...


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Do the clock and radio come back on again after the car has started? If they do then I would be inclined to look at the battery and the connections. Is there any build up on the terminals? Have you tried starting the car with the headlights on and see if they dim as well?


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1" is a decent drop and it will depend on what else you are changing. If you're just using springs to lower the vehicle, then you'll probably have issues with bumps and your struts going out faster or even banging loudly as they bottom out. If you're going to do that, then you should consider going with struts designed for lowered vehicles or find a set of ...


1

A few points worth mentioning when checking oil level: Never rely on the first reading, especially when the engine has just been run Always take out the dipstick and wipe it clean with a rag before reinserting the dipstick to check the level. Never take readings with the engine running The dipstick level markings are supposed to be used with the engine ...


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Many dip sticks will have lines on one side for cold and the other for hot, and occasionally both will be on the same side. If the different marks are not available, refer to owners' manual for the temperature being indicated. Regardless, check your oil with the engine off. When the engine is running, oil fills galleys, pumps, etc. and is moving around in ...


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You have started correctly by cleaning the interior of the car. Keep it clean and eliminate physically any mold present, this always helps prevent the spreading. Mold also requires some degree of moisture; your problem would probably not happen in places with 50% or less of relative humidity. There is not much you can do about the weather, but you can use ...


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Might be a possible alternator failure. You can check the battery voltage. It should be ~12V when not working and ~14ish on idle. This kind of faulty alternator causes something like that.


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I have two solutions for you, depending on your skill level. The first is using a zener diode to turn on the relay once the voltage is above 12.6 volts. This will energize the relay anytime the battery voltage is above 12.6 volts. You could go as high as 13 volts, but that might turn the relay off under high electrical loads with the engine running. The 12 ...


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In '65, only Mustang GT's and Mustangs equipped with the Deluxe(a/k/a Pony) Interior had an actual ammeter, as opposed to an idiot light. This was an induction-loop ammeter, not the shunt-type ammeter that was used in '66 models and beyond. The hookup is as follows... A BLACK/YELLOW wire runs from the Alternator, through a 3-wire pigtail, under the radiator ...


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It's behind the glove compartment to the right there is a black box 2screws take the screws off the black box. Pull it out and there's another small black box its the wiper control mod. That's your problem



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