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7

How old is the battery? If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement. 5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime. At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.


5

The VIN is stored within the OBD-II system. This is what the dongle is reading. If the PCM was ever replaced, the VIN may not have been stored correctly in the new (to the car) PCM. Any shop which does aftermarket tunes can check and put the correct VIN back into it. Then your insurance fob will be reading without the mismatch.


4

tl;dr: I can't find any evidence that removing the catalytic converters on this model will improve the car. It will definitely confuse the ECU (and obviously pollute more). I've looked hard for any dyno sheets that show any concrete evidence that cat delete alone will add power. Removing the cats is something that I would almost never recommend outside of ...


4

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


3

It's probably the terrible stock speakers. Upgrade your speakers or put in a subwoofer if you want bass.


3

When you first turn your vehicle on, the vehicle itself does a "Power On Self Test" or POST. When you turn your key from off to the run position (before you start it up), all of the dash lights which are usable will light up. You should get used to which ones light up and keep those in the back of your memory. If a bulb should go out, you'll notice the ...


3

Your description sounds very much like the battery is totally dead and needs replacing. When you jump lead a car, you are replacing the installed battery with the one from the other car for starting the engine. Once the engine is running, all the cars electrical functions will be running from electricity generated by the alternator. At this point, a ...


3

Do a load test on the battery. You will need a multimeter or voltmeter and a fully charged battery. Connect the meter leads to the battery posts (positive with positive and negative with negative). Put the meter where you can see while starting the car (on the windshield laying down works). Make note of how many volts does the meter read with the car OFF. ...


2

Here is a picture from Mustang Monthly. The description in the article that is from says: In '65, Mustangs had an induction-style ammeter with no connections, only an induction loop (also called a magnetic loop) on the back of the ammeter that picks up current flow (magnetic field) through the main power lead. That all sounds fine and dandy ...


2

This is a case of what is your time worth and how long can you be without a car. I would try self extraction first. Short of breaking the extracter off in the remaining plug you can't make it worse. I have a couple of suggestions if you are doing it yourself. When I have a situation like this I soak a rag in PB blaster and wrap it around the fitting. The rag ...


2

Points would be the first thing I would check. It sounds like the ignition is breaking down i.e. not enough spark getting to the plugs. The next thing to check is the wires. If you have access to an ignition scope or a Kv meter it can make the diagnosis easier. Pulling the plugs and inspecting them can give you more clues see my answer here for help on ...


2

I'm not familiar with the car, but could you not create a temporary cover/box out of some light plastic or aluminium sheet? Either stuck down in the same way as the carpet (although I personally wouldn't bother with carpet at this stage, get the important bits done first and worry about that later...), or screwed to the bulkhead either side of the ECU. I ...


2

The reason is most likely because you have a leak in the system - this could be in various different places, for example: In the radiator In one of the hoses carrying water to and from the radiator In a gasket Cost for repair will be dependent on what component the leak is in and where that component is. Another possibility is that the radiator has ...


2

Three separate areas which the codes are pointing to. Let's run them down one by one ... P1000 On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Monitor/Driver Cycle Test Not Complete Causes are - The battery or PCM has been disconnected (Ford,Mazda) The diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared (Ford,Mazda) An OBD monitor concern occured before completion of ...


2

Yes, it's technically possible. but in general it requires you or an electrician to make up custom wiring harnesses. In other words: you can't just install the head unit and expect it to work. That would be too simple. Real men have to suffer before they're allowed to enjoy something. The good news is that Parrot thought of this and offers the UNIKA ...


2

I do a fair bit of ICE (although mostly European and Japanese cars) and from my experience, unless one of the aftermarket providers has built an adapter you are usually out of luck. There are just too many different standards (or lack of them) for how steering wheel controls talk to head units. That said - replacements are often very cheap, or you can often ...


2

You may want to think about getting it fixed vs. ignoring it. In this case, the problem is more than likely in the solenoid which directs air from the pump to the cat. Depending on the exact malfunction, you could be seeing decreased fuel mileage and also damaging your catalytic convertor. There are some reasonable tests which were written up on ...


2

Mold needs moisture and darkness to grow Pull the car out into the driveway and roll down the windows Sunlight will kill whatever is exposed Get this stuff https://moldzyme.com/ It works best when atomized - a sprayer can get close Remove the cabin air filter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTcTbUux2o Run the HEATER at full blast and spray the car with ...


2

I have the following information from a good source (done many swaps himself): He believes the '68 Mustang came stock with the 302, so the front suspension should be just fine. When he did swaps before on the earlier Mustangs, they would drop the v8 in and never think twice about changing the front end stuff. You can get heavier duty suspension/steering ...


2

The catalytic converter is there to make your exhaust cleaner. It does nothing critical to the proper running of the engine itself. If you remove it, all that will happen is that you'll get dirtier exhaust and an error code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)), which is to be expected because the "catalyst system" has been removed. ...


2

Engine control systems on most common vehicles do not have sensors of any type in each cylinder. This means that engine computer does not have the information to pass on to the software you seek. Some info can be deduced from the available sensor data. Misfire is required by regulation to be reported per cylinder, although it is not required in all ...


2

Check the transmission mount, which is at the rear of the transmission (where the drive line yoke attaches to output shaft). Often times if you've gotten on the accelerator a little bit and do some hard shifting you can easily break the mount (or more likely after several times of doing this it will start splitting then finally give up and break). This is a ...


2

I believe you have a bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT in Ford nomenclature). The code P0116,the smell of gas, and the rough idle are all symptoms of a bad ECT. Its Ford's part number F5AF-12A648-AA. Get the OEM part. Its about $25. Be careful replacing it because your car has a plastic intake manifold that tends to break.


2

Based on the codes, I'd say race fever's spot on: P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0116 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0304 - Cylinder #4 Misfire Detected P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2) Explanation I believe what's happening is the coolant temperature sensor is giving no ...


1

1" is a decent drop and it will depend on what else you are changing. If you're just using springs to lower the vehicle, then you'll probably have issues with bumps and your struts going out faster or even banging loudly as they bottom out. If you're going to do that, then you should consider going with struts designed for lowered vehicles or find a set of ...


1

A few points worth mentioning when checking oil level: Never rely on the first reading, especially when the engine has just been run Always take out the dipstick and wipe it clean with a rag before reinserting the dipstick to check the level. Never take readings with the engine running The dipstick level markings are supposed to be used with the engine ...


1

Many dip sticks will have lines on one side for cold and the other for hot, and occasionally both will be on the same side. If the different marks are not available, refer to owners' manual for the temperature being indicated. Regardless, check your oil with the engine off. When the engine is running, oil fills galleys, pumps, etc. and is moving around in ...


1

You have started correctly by cleaning the interior of the car. Keep it clean and eliminate physically any mold present, this always helps prevent the spreading. Mold also requires some degree of moisture; your problem would probably not happen in places with 50% or less of relative humidity. There is not much you can do about the weather, but you can use ...


1

Might be a possible alternator failure. You can check the battery voltage. It should be ~12V when not working and ~14ish on idle. This kind of faulty alternator causes something like that.


1

I have two solutions for you, depending on your skill level. The first is using a zener diode to turn on the relay once the voltage is above 12.6 volts. This will energize the relay anytime the battery voltage is above 12.6 volts. You could go as high as 13 volts, but that might turn the relay off under high electrical loads with the engine running. The 12 ...



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