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7

How old is the battery? If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement. 5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime. At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.


5

The VIN is stored within the OBD-II system. This is what the dongle is reading. If the PCM was ever replaced, the VIN may not have been stored correctly in the new (to the car) PCM. Any shop which does aftermarket tunes can check and put the correct VIN back into it. Then your insurance fob will be reading without the mismatch.


4

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


3

It's probably the terrible stock speakers. Upgrade your speakers or put in a subwoofer if you want bass.


3

When you first turn your vehicle on, the vehicle itself does a "Power On Self Test" or POST. When you turn your key from off to the run position (before you start it up), all of the dash lights which are usable will light up. You should get used to which ones light up and keep those in the back of your memory. If a bulb should go out, you'll notice the ...


2

This is a case of what is your time worth and how long can you be without a car. I would try self extraction first. Short of breaking the extracter off in the remaining plug you can't make it worse. I have a couple of suggestions if you are doing it yourself. When I have a situation like this I soak a rag in PB blaster and wrap it around the fitting. The rag ...


2

Points would be the first thing I would check. It sounds like the ignition is breaking down i.e. not enough spark getting to the plugs. The next thing to check is the wires. If you have access to an ignition scope or a Kv meter it can make the diagnosis easier. Pulling the plugs and inspecting them can give you more clues see my answer here for help on ...


2

Here is a picture from Mustang Monthly. The description in the article that is from says: In '65, Mustangs had an induction-style ammeter with no connections, only an induction loop (also called a magnetic loop) on the back of the ammeter that picks up current flow (magnetic field) through the main power lead. That all sounds fine and dandy ...


2

I'm not familiar with the car, but could you not create a temporary cover/box out of some light plastic or aluminium sheet? Either stuck down in the same way as the carpet (although I personally wouldn't bother with carpet at this stage, get the important bits done first and worry about that later...), or screwed to the bulkhead either side of the ECU. I ...


2

The reason is most likely because you have a leak in the system - this could be in various different places, for example: In the radiator In one of the hoses carrying water to and from the radiator In a gasket Cost for repair will be dependent on what component the leak is in and where that component is. Another possibility is that the radiator has ...


2

Three separate areas which the codes are pointing to. Let's run them down one by one ... P1000 On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Monitor/Driver Cycle Test Not Complete Causes are - The battery or PCM has been disconnected (Ford,Mazda) The diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared (Ford,Mazda) An OBD monitor concern occured before completion of ...


2

Yes, it's technically possible. but in general it requires you or an electrician to make up custom wiring harnesses. In other words: you can't just install the head unit and expect it to work. That would be too simple. Real men have to suffer before they're allowed to enjoy something. The good news is that Parrot thought of this and offers the UNIKA ...


2

I do a fair bit of ICE (although mostly European and Japanese cars) and from my experience, unless one of the aftermarket providers has built an adapter you are usually out of luck. There are just too many different standards (or lack of them) for how steering wheel controls talk to head units. That said - replacements are often very cheap, or you can often ...


1

Mold needs moisture and darkness to grow Pull the car out into the driveway and roll down the windows Sunlight will kill whatever is exposed Get this stuff https://moldzyme.com/ It works best when atomized - a sprayer can get close Remove the cabin air filter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTcTbUux2o Run the HEATER at full blast and spray the car with ...


1

You have started correctly by cleaning the interior of the car. Keep it clean and eliminate physically any mold present, this always helps prevent the spreading. Mold also requires some degree of moisture; your problem would probably not happen in places with 50% or less of relative humidity. There is not much you can do about the weather, but you can use ...


1

I have two solutions for you, depending on your skill level. The first is using a zener diode to turn on the relay once the voltage is above 12.6 volts. This will energize the relay anytime the battery voltage is above 12.6 volts. You could go as high as 13 volts, but that might turn the relay off under high electrical loads with the engine running. The 12 ...


1

The problems you are experiencing will have nothing to do with the transmission. Here is what the code explanation is. My feeling is it's with the Fuel pump driver module. It may be going bad. Code: P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline Description: The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With ...


1

Yes, cold, humid air will make a difference. You can run richer mixture on a cold morning than on a hot afternoon, for example. On a small two-stroke you'll swap jets, while a modern (generous usage here) car adjust the mixture itself according to sensor data.


1

Did you check the voltage at the battery when this is going on? If not, pull out a multi-meter and see what the voltage is at the battery. It should read somewhere between 13-14vdc. Do this directly at your battery posts and not off on some other ground/power source. If your charging looks good, the issue, I think would point at the gauge being the issue. It ...


1

Well, it's not going to be easy. You can try it yourself, say by drilling a hole and trying to extract it with special drill bits--because that's all a specialist is going to do. However, you're going to get debris in the combustion chamber, so having a shop do this might be prudent. Some shops will remove the head which will allow the stuck plug to be ...


1

There should be a six wire connector plugged into your wiper motor. Yellow/Red to wiper control module wiper motor ground Black/Pink to wiper control module wiper motor switch Dark Green +12 volt in Accessory and Run Black Chassis Ground Dark Blue/Orange to wiper control module wiper motor low White to wiper control module hi input If there is no ...



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