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7

You will likely be annoyingly loud but otherwise fine. As always, you are liable for your own compliance with local noise ordinances. I would recommend that you drive with the windows up until you give the car to the shop in order to avoid any risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. For example, don't drive with the trunk propped open: the low pressure behind ...


6

If you don't want to weld, you can use a joint like this: NOTE: The above image is for demonstration purposes only. I couldn't readily find one which was 2" on each side. The only difference is, the inside diameter on both ends would be 2". Your outside diameter 2" pipes would fit inside. Use two muffler clamps to attach. You'll need to match the outside ...


4

Exhausts can be difficult to remove. In many cases constant heating/cooling has burned off any coatings and the bare metal has corroded or rusted the nuts and studs together. If the exhaust has cylinder head studs with exposed nuts you can try several things. Start by soaking them with a penetrant oil. Only do this when the exhaust is cool enough to ...


4

It's possible to cause valve damage if the engine is hot and cold air is sucked up into the exhaust (by backpressure when the throttle is closed). However, you'd have to basically disconnect the exhaust right after the exhaust header, or have a cracked exhaust header, for that to happen. So it's extremely unlikely you caused any engine damage. A more real ...


3

You have a few possibilities Get used off Ebay. I always see those stock pipes on there. You can drill a hole through the side of your current junk pipe and rivet the baffle in place as long or short term temporary solution. You will need to get a rivet gun and rivets to get this done. You can repack your baffles, as you suggested, and then use the rivet ...


3

While I can't provide the technical details as to why, I would say your weedeater is performing as expected. With full choke and full throttle, you are flooding it when the muffler is attached. I would expect that you would smell or even see fuel coming out of the exhaust. However, with the muffler removed, the backpressure is so low that the engine can blow ...


2

I agree, it is likely a hole in your exhaust. I have a 99 A4 and get an exhaust leak about once a year by the flex pipe near the front. If a CEL didn't come on, I couldn't imagine something mechanically wrong that would cause it. Easy way to check is to jack the car up or put it on a lift while running and see if you feel air being blown somewhere along ...


2

Probably a cracked/rusted out weld somewhere. Could be a hole that finally rusted through. Sometimes the bolted together joints rust through. Typically results in a cat-back exhaust replacement. Can end up being full system replacement. Rarely can be fixed in just one location.


2

You can also keep the headers and add universal slip on mufflers.


2

The auto parts store can probably rent you a pipe expander. Once you get the pipes apart you can use the pipe expander to change the diameter of the pipes. Be sure not to rip one from expanding it too much!


1

The job of the muffler is to reduce the noise level of the exhaust; no other damage should have occurred if the exhaust piping was disconnected there.


1

This is a very subjective question in what do you mean by noticeable? It also depends on the size of the resonator itself. The general answer would be, no, it won't. Most mufflers have fiberglass matting in them which absorbs the sound which flows into the muffler. The dents usually won't affect this. The only time it would is if the muffler is completely ...


1

Your specific link says Inlet: 2" (which is one dimension you look for) and it includes Universal Fitting kit (50cm Flexi pipe, Reducer, Clamp and Strap). This means you probably wouldn't need to weld anything. It also says it fits your car. General Advice Look for inlet diameter, outlet diameter, dimensions of muffler, and position of inlet and outlet ...


1

What I did was I cleaned out the muffler with brake cleaner then blew it out with my air compressor (didn't really do much, I didn't see much carbon buildup come out). I put the muffler back on, dumped out the E10 gas that I had in the tank, replaced it with 100% gas, and now it works. Not sure which of these steps ultimately fixed it.


1

I don't think you need to worry about the fuel tank, though use good judgement here: if the trunk feels hotter than the sun, I wouldn't risk driving around. I think my main concern would be exhaust gases getting into the cabin and making you too whoozy to drive safely. Open windows and a short drive should alleviate this though.


1

I believe that the OEM muffler for the Honda Civic is only aluminized steel, not stainless steel. As such, it doesn't even have the higher resistance to rust that a stainless part will have. As noted previously, a stainless part is only resistant to corrosion, not immune (nothing really is). If you choose to go with an aftermarket stainless part, you can ...


1

Stainless steel is merely corrosion resistant, not corrosion proof, and some are better than others. My 1991 Toyota with 251,000 miles (including daily driving in the rust belt Winters) is still on its original exhaust (getting rusty, but no leaks/holes). My 1995 Mitsubishi with only 116,000 miles, rarely Winter driven is already on its third. This time ...


1

Most of the model specific nature of an exhaust system is not the muffler itself but the piping and how it attaches to the underneath of the car. It has to be sized and bent properly to work its way through from the front to back. If you are just wanting to replace the muffler and tip, you should be able to purchase those parts individually and get a shop ...



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