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6

You will likely be annoyingly loud but otherwise fine. As always, you are liable for your own compliance with local noise ordinances. I would recommend that you drive with the windows up until you give the car to the shop in order to avoid any risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. For example, don't drive with the trunk propped open: the low pressure behind ...


3

While I can't provide the technical details as to why, I would say your weedeater is performing as expected. With full choke and full throttle, you are flooding it when the muffler is attached. I would expect that you would smell or even see fuel coming out of the exhaust. However, with the muffler removed, the backpressure is so low that the engine can blow ...


2

The auto parts store can probably rent you a pipe expander. Once you get the pipes apart you can use the pipe expander to change the diameter of the pipes. Be sure not to rip one from expanding it too much!


1

I believe that the OEM muffler for the Honda Civic is only aluminized steel, not stainless steel. As such, it doesn't even have the higher resistance to rust that a stainless part will have. As noted previously, a stainless part is only resistant to corrosion, not immune (nothing really is). If you choose to go with an aftermarket stainless part, you can ...


1

Stainless steel is merely corrosion resistant, not corrosion proof, and some are better than others. My 1991 Toyota with 251,000 miles (including daily driving in the rust belt Winters) is still on its original exhaust (getting rusty, but no leaks/holes). My 1995 Mitsubishi with only 116,000 miles, rarely Winter driven is already on its third. This time ...


1

Most of the model specific nature of an exhaust system is not the muffler itself but the piping and how it attaches to the underneath of the car. It has to be sized and bent properly to work its way through from the front to back. If you are just wanting to replace the muffler and tip, you should be able to purchase those parts individually and get a shop ...



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