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22

I would be more concerned about whether engine oil is actually finding its way into the radiator from the engine. If it is, this would be indicative of a compromised head gasket, warped cylinder head, or damaged oil cooler (if the car uses radiator coolant for cooling the oil). The first two items are not trivial to replace or fix. The third one isn't far ...


21

The seller should not be selling the vehicle with oil in the cooling system. That supposed "quick fix" should have been rectified at the earliest opportunity. Have him flush the cooling system and put another few tens of kilometers on the odometer before you even consider such a vehicle. If the seller is topping off the radiator with oil instead of water, ...


10

An engine is a very large thermal mass. When the engine is cold it takes time to warm up. If you only run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds from cold there should be no problem. Running the engine any longer than that may cause the engine to overheat.


10

Yes, it's possible some of the seals designed to withstand water and glycol could get damaged I am thinking you are creating a fictitious scenario here, so I'll roll with it. If you filled your radiator with oil and started your car and let it run for awhile I would be most concerned with damage to seals that were designed to withstand water and glycol. ...


8

It can absolutely be started without a radiator. You will not cause any damage as long as the engine does not overheat. If you don't run it long enough for the engine to get too hot, it's not an issue. To give you an example of how it could be beneficial: I used to own a 94 Camaro Z28. The engine in it was a Gen-II LT1 350. This engine has what's called an ...


7

Of course it's possible, but in an ideal electric car, you don't even need a transmission with multiple gears. The electric motor has a much greater range of torque/speed output at its disposal than an internal combustion engine does.


6

If you are able to get your hands on it be sure to do a compression test on it. If the compression is bad you will need to basically do a rebuild which will cost quite a bit more than what I am guessing you want to spend. Check the condition of the timing belt, good way to see if the engine was taken care of. That's all I can think of right now but of ...


5

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any). Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty. If no voltage ...


4

I have only done this once, but I had incredibly good luck with it. In my case, it was a '86 Subaru GL-10, also turbo. I'm sure some will apply and some won't... Check the sources warranties, some will say they're compression tested and what the different readings were, some will offer warranties, etc... The engine I got was in extremely good shape, and ...


4

Make sure you doublecheck on the laws in your state before you buy any imported engines. I know in California you have basically zero chance of getting a Japanese engine smogged, even if the specs look the same as the US version.


4

This is all explained on the Government website for the MOT. The leaflets are kept up to date at legislation changes. Whether an individual test centre will fix minor faults like tyre pressure is down to the centre.


3

As far as the numbers, use what your vehicle manufacturer recommends. There is a reason your manufacturer recommends a viscosity, the main reason is, the engine is built a certain way and needs that viscosity. If you put a heavier weight oil in the engine than what is called for, your engine will not get the oil in a quantity it needs, nor in places it needs ...


3

Instead of recreating the wheel, here are some pretty good reasons why you need to do a break-in on any engine, be it a motorcycle or a car. I found it on this page. I don't necessarily agree with everything the person says on the page, so I'll leave the rest of the reading up to you. The What: Every new engine has internal components that must be ...


3

There are two answers to this question: Theoretically, radiators are completely optional on engines. Air cooled engines have existed for a very long time. The function of the radiator on these engines is replaced by cooling fins to extract the heat and release it into the air, and they also have oil coolers as well to carry out the heat. However, if your ...


3

Paulster2's comment on your post is absolutely correct. The difference between diesel and petrol is so huge, it completely overshadows the differences between cars in various regions. That said, there is historical precedence for different typical power/fuel consumption figures in these regions. The US has long had very cheap fuel, cheap land and extensive ...


3

The MOT only checks a specific set of things, as described in the link in Chenmunka's answer. Tyre pressure isn't one of them, but tyre condition and tread depth are. Some MOT stations (usually the smaller ones) will fix minor things as they go, big ones won't as they can charge you extra to do things afterwards! However - it is your responsibility (by law) ...


3

You never know where used parts come from, unless you remove them, and even then you never know their state. I would suggest a new one, and hopefully from a reputable manufacturer. Also, I rarely saw motors go bad, as it was usually the window regulator that failed and would seize the window. The labor is usually around the same, but motors are about 3 times ...


3

I agree with ursa, if you can get hands on the motor before purchase then I'd pull the plugs and see how they look. Dip the oil in the dip stick and see how the oil looks, whether there is a lot of sludge or shavings or anything. Overall condition of the motor will tell you a lot about how it has been maintained. But the compression test is the best thing to ...


3

If you were to simply replace the existing petrol engine with an electric motor, then yes, it would ruin the gearbox very quickly, as it won't be able to handle that amount of torque. However, even if the transmission would cope, that wouldn't be the best way of doing it - an electric motor has a very different torque curve to an internal combustion engine, ...


3

Strange - engine coolant is antifreeze diluted with water. So the seller is claiming he had oil but not water? I would not buy that car. For the seller, a coolant system flush would in order, both forwards and reverse, and then refill with antifreeze and clean water. If engine oil still appears in the coolant water then the oil is moving from the oil ...


2

It could be a number of things. A broken alternator belt would allow the engine to run until the battery gets so low it can't power the needed systems such as fuel pump,ignition, computers etc. At this point it would stop. You need to tell us what you have checked, what you are capable of checking and any visual clues such as the belts are in place, the ...


2

I think you need a new stator. Your problem sounds like there are loose connections or there may be reason that the bike is not charging properly. I think you start checking all the basics first and check the battery to make sure it is good. Check the volts on your battery with voltmeter.


2

Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060" gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045" gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035" is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it ...


2

(NOTE: This answer is predicated upon your engine being a 5S-FE I4 found in many Camrys.) Does this situation cause such engine damage? No. Since your engine is a non-interference motor, it should not suffer damage due to this type of an issue. There may be other things going on, though, which may be the root of what your mechanic is saying is going ...


2

If when you shift gear and release the clutch you feel the engine reving up without the car actually accelerating, probably the clutch is worn or very old/used. (this goes for manual gearbox)


2

If I am understanding what you are trying to say, it sounds like the transmission is slipping and allowing the engine to rev higher than what you'd expect for the speed you are going. Not knowing if it is an automatic or standard gearbox, I'm going to assume it is auto, because I don't think Volvo made too many standard shift 4-doors. Something you need to ...


2

Only based on your question. The answer is yes. You can run an engine without radiator. You just need to find an alternative way of keeping it coolor you will end breaking it. It's not immediate, but once the engine warms too much it will break. There are many engines that were develop specifically with this purpose in mind and only use the air flow to keep ...


2

To answer my own question: I contacted another mechanic with this issue who fixed it in no time. I feel quite stupid now... The problem was indeed with the fuel line. The fuel line was clogged with some bits of grass that had fallen in during refilling. But it was clogged in such a "creative" way that the fuel pump was able to pull some fuel through it ...


1

The block off plate replaces the plate which allows an air pump to pump air into the system to allow for better burn of the exhaust gasses (any fuel which may not have been burnt during the combustion process). Here is what the Graves Motorsports web page has to say about it: The air induction system (AIS) burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting ...


1

The simplest way to check is to fit a new timing belt, turn the engine over by hand and make sure it feels free and isn't making any odd noises. Then do a compression test and see if it's still got compression. If that all checks out then you should be okay to try and start it. If not, the only option to you is to pop the cylinder head off and take a look ...



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