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the easiest thing to do is to raise the needle a notch (or more) if it is too lean. Just don't loose the tiny "E" clip that locates the needle in the throttle slide. Sometimes they spring over a little so be ready for that. Some carburetors do not have adjustable needles. You can enrichen them with a little washer under the E clip. I have used pop rivet ...


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Anarach has provided a good survey of the Backfire (or afterfire in this case, if you're being pedantic) phenomenon. I will attempt to add to that keeping it specific to the H2R. Watch this video, the flames are a lot more exaggerated in this case. The H2R, is a track-only hyper-sport bike with every consideration given to make the engine produce most amount ...


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If the engine will run, I doubt you've "blown the engine". Usually a blown engine indicates that it's dead. Caputski. Bon Voyage. Sailed for greener pastures. In your case, I would bet one of the gaskets has let go of the goods. It appears that the side case of your engine has three parts to it. I think there are some easy things to check: Check to ...


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Sounds like the ignition or starter switch is the problem. The switch should be leaving some circuits hot in the crank position. It's also possible that the starter is pulling the circuit voltage low enough that it's not sufficient enough to fire the plugs. Check you battery, and connections as well.


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The phenomenon of flames coming out of the exhaust of any vehicle is called a Backfire Basically when you either run rich or lean in the power stroke of the combustion which is not completely burnt , it is sent through the exhaust which obviously being hot reignites with the outside air on contact creating the Backfire effect. This can be of two types: ...


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There is a sidestand switch that kills the motor if you attempt to put it into gear with the sidestand down, it's a safety measure. Check that switch at the top of your sidestand to see if the a mount bolt or nut has fallen out thereby loosening the switch and making the vehicle inoperable when you put it into gear.


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Background This is a common issue with shim and bucket valve trains. As the valves are getting worn into the head a small groove is beat into the valve face after opening and closing so many times. As the valve pushes up into the head it takes up clearance between the cam lobe and the bucket which the cam lobe depresses to push the valve in and open it to ...


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You can add a free flow exhaust to your system ,Since your bike is carbeuratted, if you have not upjetted your carb to accommodate the increased airflow I bet your engine is running lean that is, more air less fuel. This can seriously damage the engine. To cut costs you can remove the silencer from the cylinder , remove the catalytic converter and ...


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I found it, on the last page of the Service Manual there is the correlation between the frame number and the version : So mine is a C5, not a C2 as I thought. And as zglennie said, you can make a call to your dealer too.


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Coming from a country where almost 80% of the personal transport are motorcycles I agree with Rory's answer, When you are driving fast , you will spend a lot less time in Neutral and when you stop you dont want to end up without power at the wheels so it makes sense to have the lowermost plonk a Gear. After driving a 1N2345 bike setup for like 5 years , ...


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Try looking it up by the VIN. It should be on your frame somewhere. You can look it up at http://www.carfax.com/vin Also, if it's your motorcycle, you could just split the difference on the fork oil height. The two specs are 7mm apart, so you'd be off by at most 3.5mm. You could also call your local Kawasaki dealer with the VIN.


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I had a similar issue on a car years ago, has the feed to the ignition been put on the wrong terminal? i.e. one that is not "live" when the starter operates? if so, then it causes exactly what you describe. One way to test is to supply the ignition circuit directly from the battery and operate the starter, results will be evident.


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First thing you do is check the battery with a multi-meter (as mkaatman said). If the battery is good, it will have a reading well over 12.5vdc. If it is below this, put it on a charger and get it to 100%, which while sitting should be around 13.1vdc or more. I suspect the power level of the battery is going to be much lower than this and believe your ...


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Put a multimeter on the battery or take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. If it's dead, charge it. If it's not dead, start tracing the power. A wire could have burnt up at a switch or perhaps there is a fuse that has died.


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If your mirrors are these http://www.crgmoto.co.uk/crg-ls-hindsight-bar-end-mirror-27-p.asp Then it looks like the way you mount them is to move all the controls inboard a bit and then clamp the mirrors on to the newly revealed handlebars.


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So a few things you can do: Ensure the tank is completely topped off. If carbureted (I believe your's is), turn off the pet cock, start the engine, and run it out of fuel. This will ensure your carburetor is nearly (if not completely) dry, which will allow it not to build up varnish from sitting fuel. Put fuel stabilizer in your fuel. I use Sta-Bil in your ...


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I was looking at this from an automobile standpoint wondering What the heck is he talking about?? The vast majority of vehicle rotors and drums are made out of grey cast iron!, then went back and reaslized you are asking about motorcycles and ATVs. To that end: Why are OEM parts made of martensitic stainless steel (AISI 4XXX series)? The main reason ...


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Grey cast iron possesses some traits which makes it less desirable than martensitic steel for brake disc applications: it is more brittle, which means it is easier to crack it has very low impact resistance, making it less durable under heavy braking it has less hardness (400 Brinell vs 700 Brinell), so it wears more quickly if left uncoated, it is more ...


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Tick Tick Sound you here during Idling is from Auto De-compressor. This Auto Decomp starts functioning below 350RPM. If RPM is raised this sound should vanish (This is applicable for new UCE engines). In these Engines you also here some time Tick Tick sound after running the bike for few kilometers / engine warms up. This is basically maybe coming from the ...



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