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11

Motor mounts should last longer than that. They normally break when you put a lot of stress on them, such as hitting a raised railroad crossing going too fast. Sometimes they'll break if there is a lot of vibration in the engine, but you would notice that. Since they went out that fast, a couple of possibilities are (1) the new mounts didn't get put on ...


9

Were the mounts replaced with factory-spec ones? A friend of mine replaced his with aftermarket ones as OEM mounts for his car were not available, and they failed after only a few months due to poor vulcanisation between the rubber and metal parts.


8

Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all ...


6

Were all of the engine mounts replaced or just the broken ones? It's possible that you're replacing engine mounts whilst not replacing other engine mounts which could be making your motor slightly vibrate which will further stress the other mounts and break them. It takes just one bad mount to break the rest of them. Are you thrashing your car by any ...


4

It'd be worth looking for additional items that need to be addressed that could be causing extra strain on your motor mounts. For example on my vehicle, there are the two front motor mounts underneath the engine. Then there is a third one that depending on who you talk to will call it a rear motor mount, transmission mount or transmission isolator. Since ...


4

Depending on the design of your car, the engine mounts may have been removed during the alternator removal and replacement so any damage may now show up. Alternatively, if the alternator previously wasn't working and is now drawing on the vehicles RPM to charge the batter, the idle may have dropped (which could account for the vibration). If the vibration ...


4

While both Paulster2's and Steve Matthews's have good answers, there is another thing to consider. The 3.5 V-6 equipped Camrys that year (not sure about the 4 cly) have what Toyota calls Active Control Engine Mounts. They use vacuum and electricity to control the mounts. Also on the 3.5 engine it's quite an extensive repair to get to the alternator off, and ...


4

If "injector cleaning" products helped but only lasted for one tank, I would try spraying Seafoam directly in at the throttle plate rather than putting an additive in your fuel. This should be a lot more effective at cleaning the injectors. If that doesn't help, my best guess would be that the vibration is from unequal power from one or more of the ...


3

Abusive driving (neutral drops, hard launches, burn-outs, etc.) can also cause motor mounts to break prematurely.


3

Make sure the squeaking is coming from the motor mounts. I had an issue that I thought was the motor mounts and so I replaced them. The rattling was gone. However over time it came back and got worse. Then the balance shaft broke into pieces and it was clear that the shaft was the problem from the beginning.


3

Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve and the Intake Manifold must be removed and cleaned. The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral In gear there is a much greater load on the engine. Power is being transfered to the transmission and then to the wheels. This is going to cause the idle to drop a bit and this is where you'd feel the most ...


3

This would not be a motor mount issue. What you are describing seems to be an issue with the transmission. IIRC, the C230 is a rear wheel drive vehicle. Only a front wheel drive vehicle would produce anything like what you are talking about with bad motor mounts, but then it will be far less noticeable. A motor mount problem will not create the jolt like ...


2

I think the problem was probably there before and you are just noticing it. Lots of times, the problems we experience with vehicles happens over time. Motor mounts are one such thing. They do not wear out overnight or just give up the ghost all of a sudden (in the vast majority of the cases). Most of the time, as these things wear out, we don't notice it ...


2

Sounds like you need to look at the rear bushing of the front wheel control arms. These are made of rubber on most cars and don't last beyond 100k. The thunk you feel is because a normal bushing has firm hold of the connection with the control arm, where as your control arm is probably loosely held in place by worn rubber. When you accelerate, the forces ...


2

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/raceparts.html Oh yeah... do you know what a 400, 750 and 1000 hp Supra all have in common? They all run 12's. :D


2

You replaced the engine mounts? I would guess that since you had to change the engine mounts that there is a good chance that the tranny mounts may need to be changed as well...what is the drivetrain assembly like in that car since it is fwd, sometimes if the driveshaft in a rwd car is unbalanced it will cause the car to shake


2

Are your mounts located directly near your exhaust manifold? Do they have a heat shield? The rubber can dry and crack due to the heat from the exhaust manifold if not properly insulated/protected from the heat. On my 944, there is a small tin heat shield that protects the mounts from the manifold. Leaking oil onto the mounts will also accelerate their wear, ...


2

While one bolt might be able to hold the pump in place, it won't keep it firm. What this will give you is just enough movement, the serpentine belt will not stay in place. It will pop off, maybe not in the first few seconds, but as soon as you put enough strain on the power steering, it will deflect enough and your belt will be off. The reason there are ...


1

The usual things to look at are: are they using factory parts, or aftermarket? what type of warranty are they offering? what qualifications or experience do their mechanics have? These can make a great deal of difference. Personally, I always go with factory parts, and factory trained mechanics - it is more expensive, but the warranty on parts and ...


1

I fixed the vibration problem I had for 1 year on my 2007 toyota camry after I cleaned the throttle body and air control valve (iac) the car is driving perfect. I can not believe it was so easy to fix...


1

Based on your information, it appears your transmission is on it's way out. If your mounts were bad and the car was driven for a lengthy period of time, you were putting more stress on the tranny than usual. Being a FWD car with the tranny on the side, Horizontally opposed to the engine, it's verifiable when you say the car "shifts" when turning it off. This ...


1

Possible that the valve cover leak was allowing hot oil to drip on the motor mounts shortening their life and as Dwayne states maybe only the broken one was replaced.


1

It depends what you want to do, you can get solid Billet Aluminum motor mounts from BIC Performance as well as polyurethane mounts. Polyurethane have more NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) over the stock motor mounts, but much less than full solid mounts.


1

Vibra-Technics are developing a high performance version. www.vibra-technics.co.uk



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