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11

Motor mounts should last longer than that. They normally break when you put a lot of stress on them, such as hitting a raised railroad crossing going too fast. Sometimes they'll break if there is a lot of vibration in the engine, but you would notice that. Since they went out that fast, a couple of possibilities are (1) the new mounts didn't get put on ...


5

Were all of the engine mounts replaced or just the broken ones? It's possible that you're replacing engine mounts whilst not replacing other engine mounts which could be making your motor slightly vibrate which will further stress the other mounts and break them. It takes just one bad mount to break the rest of them. Are you thrashing your car by any ...


4

It'd be worth looking for additional items that need to be addressed that could be causing extra strain on your motor mounts. For example on my vehicle, there are the two front motor mounts underneath the engine. Then there is a third one that depending on who you talk to will call it a rear motor mount, transmission mount or transmission isolator. Since ...


4

I thought I'd mention this since others haven't. Are they aftermarket wheels? If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car? If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered. The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, ...


3

Make sure the squeaking is coming from the motor mounts. I had an issue that I thought was the motor mounts and so I replaced them. The rattling was gone. However over time it came back and got worse. Then the balance shaft broke into pieces and it was clear that the shaft was the problem from the beginning.


3

Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake? A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts. A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too ...


2

Nothing wrong with spending time and money to do interesting things to old vehicles. I'm guessing you have the model with the 4g64 engine? If so, why not do another 4g64? It's still being used on modern vehicles, you may not have too much work to do to fit a current generation 4g64 into your old vehicle. Might be a difference in crank/cam angle sensor ...


2

Panels like that are usually removed after removing the head unit. I'm guessing from the picture that it is an aftermarket unit, so you should be able to get an appropriate removal tool (these vary according to the make of the head unit) from your local car accessories shop. Use the tool(s) to remove the head unit, and you'll find a metal cage behind it, ...


2

Starting problems in damp weather usually point to the ignition system. Moisture in the air can get into worn plug wires, cracks in distributor cap can let moisture in also. To test for this start the car and pop the hood, with engine running, spray water onto the suspected areas and see if engine stalls.


2

Yes it will cause a check engine light.The hose is a vacum line for the PVC valve it is to ventilate fumes out of the crankcase and burn them in the combustion process.If disconnected the air fuel mixture will become very lean.Too much air not enough fuel.After reconnecting it may take a few miles for the light to reset.The broken piece in the valve cover ...


2

I suspect the bang was, as you suggest, unburnt fuel going up. I take it you now have a good spark, if it has been running well since changing the coil? As Mauro's comment says, what do the plugs look like? Are they clean, or do they show signs of overfuelling? Does it turn over at normal speed on the starter, or does it spin a lot faster, slower or ...


2

For such a cheap part, if you suspect the vacuum hoses then just replace it to remove it from the list of possible causes. From my knowledge the MJ tritons were still carburettor. If this is the case then perhaps it might be worth trying to diagnose a possible carburettor issue. If it performs this behaviour at any particular throttle position then it might ...


1

Are you sure the rough idling is due to clogged injectors? If so, you might want to consider sending the injectors off to be ultrasonically cleaned. If you really want to do it yourself, get a rebuild kit (new filters / o-rings) and soak them in solvent. You can even rig up a wire harness to cycle them while feeding them solvent. Details here.


1

Actually, I've found that a can/bottle of fuel system cleaner, like say from STP or BG, works great with one caveat - it says to add to one full tank of gas. Add it to a nearly empty tank so that you can drive at least 30 miles or so, and run it as close to empty as possible before adding gas again. The extra bit of concentration makes a big difference, just ...


1

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0421 How many miles? If over 100K or close to that, your catalytic converters could be bad. when they go bad, they can block your exhaust flow which will effect power performance and fuel efficiancy. cats work by a material that glows red hot when running. unburnt fuel is flashed off when going through them and does not get to ...


1

What may be more important is air temperature - the much warmer air you will be getting in Florida will not give you as much power. Cold air is much more efficient for a car engine to use as it is denser. I know I get a noticeable power increase during a cold winter here, and there are power boost kits some of my friends use which simply spray cooling air ...


1

No. Revving to a certain level based on computer and fuel input will not harm the engine as long as that RPM is not within the 'red zone' and is within the engine's normal operating parameters. If this behaviour is new, it may be a sign of a clogged O2 sensor, a clogged EGR port, a bad relay, or any one of a hundred other problems. You should see if your ...


1

Is this a new behaviour? Many cars (especially OBD-2, not so much earlier models) will rev to 2000 or even 2500 for 10-30 seconds on start when it's cooler out (some even do it on warm days). If it's a new behaviour, you may have a faulty Idle Air Controller. If it's always done it, I wouldn't worry about it too much since it's pretty common for newer ...



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