Hot answers tagged

11

Motor mounts should last longer than that. They normally break when you put a lot of stress on them, such as hitting a raised railroad crossing going too fast. Sometimes they'll break if there is a lot of vibration in the engine, but you would notice that. Since they went out that fast, a couple of possibilities are (1) the new mounts didn't get put on ...


10

I thought I'd mention this since others haven't. Are they aftermarket wheels? If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car? If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered. The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, ...


9

Were the mounts replaced with factory-spec ones? A friend of mine replaced his with aftermarket ones as OEM mounts for his car were not available, and they failed after only a few months due to poor vulcanisation between the rubber and metal parts.


7

Looking at the description of the California O2 sensor for your car, the only thing different on it (besides the internals) is the electrical plug. The wrench which you tighten it down with is 7/8", which means the sensor bung should be the same size as well. I don't think there is any real external difference between the California and non-California ...


6

Were all of the engine mounts replaced or just the broken ones? It's possible that you're replacing engine mounts whilst not replacing other engine mounts which could be making your motor slightly vibrate which will further stress the other mounts and break them. It takes just one bad mount to break the rest of them. Are you thrashing your car by any ...


6

It sounds like there is an issue with something in the vehicle after it goes from open loop (before sensors are used to run the car) to closed loop (where the vehicle starts using inputs from the O2s, MAF, and other sensors). This switch over usually occurs about two minutes from a cold start-up. I would start by cleaning the MAF with electronics cleaner ...


5

Generally speaking, keeping the parking brake engaged while driving the vehicle will heat your brake pads and potentially wear them down rapidly. If you're not hearing any grinding or squeaking on your brake pads it is PROBABLY not a problem. However, for peace of mind I'd suggest having someone inspect the brake pads for deformity or cracking, just if you ...


5

Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake? A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts. A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too ...


5

It'd be worth looking for additional items that need to be addressed that could be causing extra strain on your motor mounts. For example on my vehicle, there are the two front motor mounts underneath the engine. Then there is a third one that depending on who you talk to will call it a rear motor mount, transmission mount or transmission isolator. Since ...


5

Just to add to the other answer as I ran into this same issue, what kind of emissions do I have on my mitsubishi galant? I had this code: P0421 and I had to replace my O2 Sensor & the catalytic converter but I wasn't sure if I needed the CARB (California Air Resource Board) compliant ones or not. There is a label that identifies what type you have. I ...


5

If this looks like your water pump, then yes you can: The tilt in the pulley is caused not from a broke shaft, but from a worn bushing which the shaft rides upon. This is just one of the symptoms which shows up when the pump is dying a short miserable death. As the bushing wears out, there is created more and more space (slop) which allows the shaft to ...


5

It sounds as though you did suck up some water and were on the verge of hydrolock, but didn't quite get there. I also doubt you have caused any damage to the engine, in fact, you may have inadvertently helped your engine (though I wouldn't suggest you do this again!!!). The extra sputtering may have been a case of the filter on your CAI getting soaked with ...


5

I'm not a fan of RTV Others that are professional and hobbyists don't agree with me but, some do. I just don't use RTV, it's like duct tape to me. I get a physiological reaction to the acronym. I feel it has it's uses in very rare cases. Why don't I like RTV? Because if use too much it can create a bead inside of the motor and then eventually break ...


4

That is the part of the odometer called the Trip Odometer. There should be a button you can push to cycle through the different settings very near the reading, usually in the dash. You can usually press and hold the button to allow for a reset. Since it shows an [A] on it, you can expect there is probably a second one named [B] (at a minimum). If you cycle ...


3

Abusive driving (neutral drops, hard launches, burn-outs, etc.) can also cause motor mounts to break prematurely.


3

Make sure the squeaking is coming from the motor mounts. I had an issue that I thought was the motor mounts and so I replaced them. The rattling was gone. However over time it came back and got worse. Then the balance shaft broke into pieces and it was clear that the shaft was the problem from the beginning.


3

Unbalance tires maybe one of the reason. You may want to go to the shop and have its alignment checked. If they are new, you may have a free check up where you purchased them which i have done before.


3

The short answer is that it depends. I drive around in what is likely a similar climate: the winters are chilly but huge snows are unlikely. Instead, we will often get between a light dusting and an inch of snow. In that sort of weather, all weather tires have suited me fine. They do not perform as well in the snow as dedicated snow tires (as I said in ...


3

Your suspension is bent up and is a big mess. Goto a mechanic and get an estimate before it flies apart and injures you or innocent bystanders. I can see a wheel shaking, off camber and out of alignment while you drive down the road. This is not trivial. Imagine only one of your front brakes working well and you have to panic stop for a crosswalk filled ...


3

The battery shouldn't make a difference, providing the alternator is working properly. However, if you don't have a starting problem, that suggests it isn't the battery that is the root cause of the problem - more like something electrical. From the symptoms you describe, it sounds more like a fuelling issue - perhaps the fuel pump is cutting out after a ...


3

Seems like the high-side pressure is too high The refrigerant needs to be operating at the right pressures in order for the air-con to function properly: If the pressure is too low, there is risk of compressor damage in addition to lack of cooling If the pressure is too high, the effectiveness of cooling diminishes at the very least To avoid hitting ...


3

The short answer is: you have a fuel leak. What you described would seem to indicate a leak or some major engine problems. Does the car run normally? Since you didn't mention the car wasn't running bad, I assume it's running normal which would tend to dismiss a mechanical problem, like you aren't running on all the cylinders. Lets look at some numbers, ...


3

When you say that it shakes when you stop at a red light, based on the context, I'm assuming that you mean when the car is fully stopped and the engine is idling. (If I'm mistaken about that and you mean that it shakes as it comes to a stop, I'd suspect a warped brake rotor.) I'm going to guess that the engine is running poorly at idle after the engine is ...


3

I'm assuming this is the gas and not the hybrid. Engine = 2.0 Year = 2014 Fuel = Gas Protocol = CAN 11Bit, 500 baud Mode 1 = BE3FA813 9017A001 FE108040 Mode 2 = 7E3F8003 00162001 7E108040 Here's the link where I retrieved the info. Based upon the link it looks like you would be connecting with ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID, 500 Kbaud)


2

Nothing wrong with spending time and money to do interesting things to old vehicles. I'm guessing you have the model with the 4g64 engine? If so, why not do another 4g64? It's still being used on modern vehicles, you may not have too much work to do to fit a current generation 4g64 into your old vehicle. Might be a difference in crank/cam angle sensor ...


2

Panels like that are usually removed after removing the head unit. I'm guessing from the picture that it is an aftermarket unit, so you should be able to get an appropriate removal tool (these vary according to the make of the head unit) from your local car accessories shop. Use the tool(s) to remove the head unit, and you'll find a metal cage behind it, ...


2

Starting problems in damp weather usually point to the ignition system. Moisture in the air can get into worn plug wires, cracks in distributor cap can let moisture in also. To test for this start the car and pop the hood, with engine running, spray water onto the suspected areas and see if engine stalls.


2

I would start with balancing them, especially since you feel it the most in the steering wheel, and make sure to balance them dynamically not just statically.. also make sure your tires dont have uneven wear like 'lumps'


2

Are your mounts located directly near your exhaust manifold? Do they have a heat shield? The rubber can dry and crack due to the heat from the exhaust manifold if not properly insulated/protected from the heat. On my 944, there is a small tin heat shield that protects the mounts from the manifold. Leaking oil onto the mounts will also accelerate their wear, ...


2

This could still be caused by your wheel(s) being out of balance. Two things you can do to see if it is still your issue. First, take it somewhere they can balance your tires for a higher speed. Sometimes the "normal" balance is not quite enough to get them right. If you get the tires balanced for something over 70mph, it may help your issue. Secondly, ...



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