Hot answers tagged

19

If the trunk was overfilled and had to be pushed closed, you might have success with pushing down on the trunk (with as much force as you safely can) while trying to operate the mechanism. If a force inside the trunk is pushing up, the mechanism could be in a bind. You pushing down will hopefully counteract that force enough to free up the lock.


16

Even if the seat does not fold down, you can unbolt it. Remove the bottom part first, then the back. This happened in my mother's Camry several times(bad latch mechanism) and I had to remove the seat each time.


14

Yes, at least half of the exhaust is coming straight out of that gap without passing through the muffler. As you've noted, this leads to an increase in noise (or music, depending on your taste). To my eye, that looks like a hassle to fix on your own. There appears to be the rusted remnants of two bolts holding the Y-pipe to the passenger side muffler and ...


5

You can use a wheel lock removing set. I believe most automotive stores will sell them. They can also easily be found online. Or you can drill the nut and stud. Which takes a long time. It would be faster & cheaper to pay a mechanic for a half hour labor to remove your wheel locks.


5

It takes a long time for the heat gauge to register as anything but cold, about 10-15 minutes. This is almost definitely a stuck open thermostat. The engine should reach operation temperature within 10 minutes, meaning middle of the gauge. You should see it start moving up within about 5 minutes


5

Yes, there is an interlock between the ignition and the shifter, as well as an interlock between the shifter and the brake pedal. Something could have gotten messed up somewhere. There is a procedure to move the shifter, if stepping on the brake and the key system don't allow it. Check your owners guide. Generally there is a small removable plastic cover ...


4

It really depends on what the piece is you are talking about. Some vehicles have an air dam on the bottom of the car which forces air to flow through the radiator while the vehicle is running down the road. This piece would (in its normal position) extend directly down under neath the radiator core. You'd also have a space just in front of the piece where ...


4

I'm just spit balling here but it may be possible battery's life has come to an end. Cranking a vehicle draws a lot of current from the battery acting as a big straw that sucks current away from other components (ECU and dashboard). I would first proceed by changing the car battery. This depends on if the vehicle failed to start first time ^ The other ...


4

You need to check for evidence of gear oil leakage from the rear differential of the vehicle. It sounds like you are low, causing the noise. If it is low, and you have been driving it for a while like this, you may have caused damage to the ring/pinion gears, or possibly the bearings. The obvious places to find leakage is at the pinion seal, which where ...


3

Your vehicle is equipped with the Duratec 24 valve double over head cam 3.0 liter V6. In the descriptions where you see 24V, that stand for 24 valve. The car has a 12 volt electrical system and not a 24 volt one. The Mercury Sable has 2 different engine options. One is a 3.0 liter V6 overhead valve (OHV) 12 valve and the other is 3.0 liter V6 double ...


3

There might be some slight kernel of truth. A Ford/Mercury PCM is programmed in one of three ways. With the old PCM installed connect the scan tool. When the scan tool connects to the car it sucks out the build information of the vehicle. A PCM replacement is the initiated in the scan tool and the scan tool will tell you when to install the new PCM. Once ...


3

It sounds like your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) security system has locked you out, but I bet you figured that out already ;-) I found some instructions for resetting a Mercury Mountaineer, and would imagine it should work for your Montego as well. A symptom you should also be looking for is whether the flashing red light continues to blink at double ...


3

I've heard it many times, but never seen any proof. See the question and my answer to this post. I have never read about it in any of the Factory Service Manuals I have been through, so I shelve it up as false. I think the idea is that new fluid, with all the fresh detergents, shock dirt and debris loose and cause problems. Again, never seen it happen.


3

The two could be related. In the US, the key can't be removed from the ignition unless the car is in Park as a safety requirement and most cars won't let you take it out of park until the key is inserted and turned. This is normally accomplished with a few switches and actuators in the ignition cylinder and the shift mechanism. This could be as simple as ...


2

Having owned a 97 Taurus which is a Sables cousin a common problem is the vehicle speed sensor. If the sensor completely fails it is easy to diagnose. Mine slowly failed over a two week period during which time it would shift into nuetral, have eratic speedometer readings,and would shift up or down at odd times or work perfectly fine. The coolant resevoirs ...


2

I took the two screws out of circuit board and pulled the circuit board out found a broken solder point resoldered and it works fine


2

It seems your multifunction switch is probably bad. It should be fairly easy to pull this switch to inspect it. I found these instructions to gain access: The turn signal canceling is part of the function of the 'multifunction switch'. This is a switch mounted on the steering column by 2 screws. Once you take the covers off, you can see the ...


2

There are several things to look for here: Localize where the fluid is actually coming from. Doing this will allow you to take the next step. Ensure you put all of the hoses back in place correctly. It is easy to get one cocked in the wrong direction, where you think you go it right, but you don't. Check all of them to make sure they are completely in ...


2

The antifreeze if actually red (as opposed to orange/red) is usually heavy duty and is specified for use in big trucks. This antifreeze should not hurt your vehicle. If it looks more orangish, it is probably a Dex-Cool derivative. This should not be mixed, but will not cause issues if it is. Dex-Cool is an Organic Acid Technology (OAT). It has an extended ...


2

Rip it off if you want. It isn't directing air into a radiator. It isn't acting as an air dam (keeping airflow from under the car to keep it from lifting at speed). It is most likely a valance/splash guard/splash shield. Yank it off or hold it up with a zip tie. They were usually not held on with bolts but a plastic trim fastener that looked somewhat ...


2

Found this for the base stereo system.


2

It sounds as though either its a bad battery or the battery has lost connection. Your best bet is to take the battery out of your vehicle and charge it. If it comes up to full charge, put it back into the vehicle and see if that does the trick. If it won't charge, take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it. They can tell you if it's bad or ...


1

I suspect you'll have to take that to a shop - I had a very similar set of locks on a car before, I tried using a remover set like the one in Ben's answer, but it didn't get anywhere - the outer chromed ring split in two circumferentially and just span - the tyre shop used a special single-use tool that was hammered into the keyhole and deformed to fit.


1

You only find 24volt vehicle systems in military vehicles/emergency vehicles. I don't think Mercury would release a vehicle that required 100% different electronics amongst it's line of vehicle. Whats the point? 24volt vehicles are that way to power on board equipment. I.E. Military Communications vehicle.


1

I believe you already found the culprit. If you can 'jiggle' wires in the harness and cause any change in how the engine is running this is NOT normal. Unfortunately this is one issue that has to be diagnosed in-person as there are too many variables when it comes to wiring. Start by checking ground wiring first. This is easiest to do because you can ...


1

Check is to see if the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is working correctly. Do this by unplugging it while the engine is running. If it is good, the idle will drop (you should hear a definite difference). If it does nothing, you'll need to replace it. The IAC can be found on this image ... It's just above the throttle body:


1

This is more than likely the resistor pack which is on most vehicles, is located in the air box with the blower fan under your passenger side foot well. It should look something like this for your car:


1

I would bet you're right about having to disconnect hoses, but don't know for sure by just looking at an image on Google. If you do have to disconnect the A/C hose, you should take it to a shop which will be able to completely remove all of the refrigerant from the system prior to opening it up. After you get the hose off, you'll need to get a new drier to ...


1

Resistor packs/Thermostats can and do fail. Your one lasted 10 years. This would not be a bad performance for non-safety critical part.


1

I removed the radio from the car and was able to finally determine the satellite control is integrated into the radio unit. On the unit itself is a tag with the ID #. Unfortunately, once all connections were reseated, I still have the same problem.



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