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Had the same issue in a VW Golf(1995 model). The car would shake violently when stopped a redlight. Tore the whole car apart and found out that my engine AND transmission mounts where very loose, got new mounts and tightened everything. So check the mounts, mechanic said that on older vehicles those tend to be the culprits.


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I suspect that the indicator relay is faulty, this relay is also responsible for the wiper and heating of the rear window. In the fuse box in the engine department you can find the relay, it should look like this:


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Ok, so the ESP is the "Electronic Stability Program". There's a bit of explanation and backstory here from Mercedes. (Which I found quite interesting.) There are a couple things you can check before resorting to a trip the the shop. I'd do them like so: Tire Pressure - Get an accurate gauge and check to make sure all tires are close (probably within +/- ...


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ESP or Mercedes version of Traction Control.Apparently It is triggered by a bad ground and low battery voltage as well. If “ESP – Visit Workshop” is being displayed in the instrument cluster, and for vehicles with an automatic transmission, the selector lever cannot be moved from position “P” after the engine is started, and various fault codes are stored ...


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The full message should be "ESP not available, see owner's manual", so you should check your owner's manual for troubleshooting tips. According to http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/505469-esp-not-available-car-goes-into-limp-mode.html the slow down may be an intentional self-protection mode. There's any number of reasons why this could be happening and ...


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Worst case scenario: Very carefully grind the bolt head off then slide the head up the bolt. Once the head is out of the way, remove with a stud remover or weld a new nut to it. To do this, first make the head as accessible as possible. You can rotate the cams a bit carefully if a lobe is in the way, just be sure you don't have valve interference (...


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I have just had a Mercedes Key that would not unlock the doors but would start the Vehicle. So I sent it to a specialist car key doctor This is what he found. Check out Mercedes Smart Key, find damaged casing and switches and bad connections. Remove all switches and fit 3 new switches, redo bad connections, fit 2 new batteries and test, key working but ...


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After hours of tracing cables, removing panels and taking apart more of the car than I'd like to admit, I figured the issue out. Apparently there's a cable for control current (or something like that). The control current had gone out. The car still kept thinking the lights were on, as the LED control circuitry was apparently using the power the car was ...



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