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As Nick said there are wear indicators. Most will have little arrows on the side wall to show you where the indicator bars or raised areas are. On the side of wall of tires there is the date of manufacture stamped as 4 digits. The first two represent the week in the year it was manufactured and the last two the year. May be difficult to spot at first but ...


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I've speed read this so excuse duplication. Service history is important. Make sure all stamps are present and consider calling the garage(s) who stamped them to confirm each service took place. You're spending a lot of money on the car. When you've lined up the final choice, I'd consider spending a few hundred more and get the RAC or AA to inspect it. ...


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Checking the battery requires a battery tester and disconnecting the battery; the next best manner is to hook the car up to the correct service equipment and confirm it is the right battery for the car and use any test protocols available on the equipment and car, meanwhile also checking the charging system. After that, use 'close visual inspection': look ...


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Tyre depth gauges look something like this (amazon link) - you can buy them in any automotive store. You press the green bit against the tyre and push the middle bit into the tread groove. The slidy bit at the top will then tell you the depth. Buy one and have a play, it's easier to see than to explain! You should be able to see the 'wear bars' - raised ...


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The below are very easy checks you can do while buying a used car.(from anywhere for that matter of fact) Engine This is the most complicated/expensive part to maintain/replace. Head Gasket check: Open the oil filler cap or the dip stick for any milky white substance , like mayoneese ,if it is present then stay away , it means the head gasket is ...


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The ESP is Electronic Stability Program. It requires the steering wheel angle sensor to work correctly. With it erroring, the ESP may make bad decisions as to your interest in which direction you want your car to go. Your MB may be smart enough to shut off the ESP when there is a problem in the system. If this is the case, or if you can shut it off manually ...


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The only way to do this is to have the keys programmed to the car. The only way to do that is to take it to the dealership. They have the necessary tools which are proprietary. Only they have them. Yes, it's a racket.


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Another point that hasn't been mentioned - a smaller, turbocharged engines uses less fuel when not on boost (as Juann Strauss says) - this means that it produces less emissions (which has to be a good thing, especially in urban areas where air quality is becoming a major issue). Less emissions also means they reduce the average emissions over the ...


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I would like to add two valid points to this discussion as well: 1) When producing engines like this which produce more power with lower CC's, they won't be as smooth as their bigger naturally aspirated predecessors. They will have to rev higher just to produce the same power. So lets say you are driving at 70 MPH with a 5.0 V8, you could comfortably ...


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I've checked a number of sources and they all state that the engines in these are Interference Engines so there is a good chance of contact between the valves and the piston crowns. A compression test once the timing has been re-set would be a simple way to check if this has happened without taking the engine to pieces.



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