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13

The below are very easy checks you can do while buying a used car.(from anywhere for that matter of fact) Engine This is the most complicated/expensive part to maintain/replace. Head Gasket check: Open the oil filler cap or the dip stick for any milky white substance , like mayoneese ,if it is present then stay away , it means the head gasket is ...


7

Tyre depth gauges look something like this (amazon link) - you can buy them in any automotive store. You press the green bit against the tyre and push the middle bit into the tread groove. The slidy bit at the top will then tell you the depth. Buy one and have a play, it's easier to see than to explain! You should be able to see the 'wear bars' - raised ...


5

I would like to add two valid points to this discussion as well: 1) When producing engines like this which produce more power with lower CC's, they won't be as smooth as their bigger naturally aspirated predecessors. They will have to rev higher just to produce the same power. So lets say you are driving at 70 MPH with a 5.0 V8, you could comfortably ...


5

It very well could be the thermostat. However, did you check the obvious things, like coolant levels and make sure you don't have any air pockets? I had an overheating issue that would manifest after 20 to 40 minutes of running the car, which was due to an air pocket. Usually if it overheats at idle you check the radiator fans, radiator fins bent or ...


4

It sounds like the issue is with heat rejection. The tell-tale sign is that the coolant temps rise into the red when the car is at idle (low RPM, little air flow across the radiator), but when the car moves the temps drop back down to normal. So what could cause this? A couple of possibilities: low air flow Are the radiator fans turning on when they ...


4

A car battery's power will drop with temperature. It would be my first port of call. Since the car ran fine when you had it jumpstarted with the help of your friend, I would have the battery tested to make sure that it can deliver sufficient juice to the starter.


3

BlueEFFICIENCY As Mercedes-Benz claims, it reduces fuel consumption by up to 12.1%, without a performance drop. They also claim that it is environment-friendly (Consume less fuel and emit less CO2) They are achieving these by doing: Reducing car's weight Lower aerodynamic drag Smart dynamo Fraction resisted tyres Transmission suggestion monitor Fuel-save ...


3

There may be a vacuum pipe that goes from the engine inlet manifold to the transmission. I have seen symptoms a little like this caused by damage to this pipe on a similar aged car.


2

My buddy had such problem on his MB 190E. On engines like 190's (and many other Mercedes cars of these years) there wasn't an electric radiator fans, they used something called Viscous coupling unit that transfers torque to the fan depending on the difference in angular velocity between the engine belt and the fan itself. So, primary, standing in the ...


2

I had a friend that wanted to convert her minibus (Renault Master) into a camper and her requirements where to remove the false floor in order to free up around two/three feet of headspace along three quarters of the length of the minibus. I helped her to remove the floor and it wasn't too difficult. I'm a fairly amateur diy enthusiast. I'm presuming you're ...


2

I've checked a number of sources and they all state that the engines in these are Interference Engines so there is a good chance of contact between the valves and the piston crowns. A compression test once the timing has been re-set would be a simple way to check if this has happened without taking the engine to pieces.


2

It's probably a bad battery (low voltage), bad tensioner pulley (not allowing for proper grip on the alternator), or worn out serpentine belt. This is of course considering, one - it has a serpentine belt, and two - the noise you are talking about is a squeal on start-up (could also be a chirping noise). When the engine first starts up, it requires a lot ...


2

If the bell housings are removable, you can swap them. You may need to drill/weld a bit to get holes to line up. If they are not removable you will need to either make an adaptor plate, or cut/weld the bell housing to fit.


2

Sounds like you need to look at the rear bushing of the front wheel control arms. These are made of rubber on most cars and don't last beyond 100k. The thunk you feel is because a normal bushing has firm hold of the connection with the control arm, where as your control arm is probably loosely held in place by worn rubber. When you accelerate, the forces ...


1

Not exactly. The number sequence is split from 1 March to 31 August, then from 1 September through the end of February. In your case, the 51 plate is saying your car is a 2002 as 51 falls under the latter case. This, I believe, has to do with model year and when it was manufactured. Here is a breakdown in how the years suss out (taken from this website): ...


1

What are the potential problems? The battery was probably drained. This can happen for several reasons, one of which is the alternator which recharges the battery has failed. In that case the battery will not get charged and will slowly drain again. You can check this by measuring the voltage when the engine is running. If the battery is getting charged ...


1

A short or open circuit can drain the battery. I suspect that multimedia starting when reverse is selected is related to the reversing sensor option (our Golf does the same as it uses the display for the reversing sensors). The other problem that could be happening is that your alternator is failing and not charging the battery properly. Finally, make ...


1

Is the fixture getting electricity? Have you tested it with a meter? If it is, your problem is possibly just a bad bulb. If it isn't, then you have a wiring issue.. possibly a crimped or cut wiring harness, damaged during the collision. In that case, you're going to want to track it back to where it is severed, and repair it. EDIT And now that I read ...


1

In MB, the ignition key is inserted into a component called EZS which is basically an ignition key control unit which also doubles as an immobilzer control unit. E ngine control unit, EZS, transmission control unit and electronic steering lock control unit are all part of the immobiliser system. Based on your symptoms with respect to shifting, steering and ...


1

I think this is because of the main bearings. The oil enters from above into the bearings. A worn bearing will cause the gap between the axle and the bearing to be larger, and more oil will escape, which leads to lower pressure. This effect is bigger when you press the accelerator because the crankshaft will then be affected by a downward force from the ...


1

The ESP is Electronic Stability Program. It requires the steering wheel angle sensor to work correctly. With it erroring, the ESP may make bad decisions as to your interest in which direction you want your car to go. Your MB may be smart enough to shut off the ESP when there is a problem in the system. If this is the case, or if you can shut it off manually ...


1

The only way to do this is to have the keys programmed to the car. The only way to do that is to take it to the dealership. They have the necessary tools which are proprietary. Only they have them. Yes, it's a racket.



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