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13

The below are very easy checks you can do while buying a used car.(from anywhere for that matter of fact) Engine This is the most complicated/expensive part to maintain/replace. Head Gasket check: Open the oil filler cap or the dip stick for any milky white substance , like mayoneese ,if it is present then stay away , it means the head gasket is ...


8

The short answer is that yes, you can change your differential to optimize fuel efficiency. CAVEAT: it is almost certainly not worth it. Here's a very high level discussion of why there are better ways to achieve the same goal (better fuel efficiency): Think about how the air-fuel mixture in the engine is managed: for each revolution of the engine, a unit ...


8

There are advantages, but also disadvantages to using a smaller turbocharged engine with a higher power output. The pro's of smaller, turbocharged engines: When not on boost (below e.g. 3000RPM) the engine uses much less fuel. turbocharged engines have a flatter torque curve, meaning they're working closer to optimal level throughout a larger portion of ...


7

There are other factors that affect the start stop feature. I am not sure on that exact model but generally the following things will keep the car engine from shutting off: Coolant Temp too high, or too low The engine has not ran for at least two minutes The AC is on and not in the economy mode Low Vacuum Battery charge low High current draw on the 12 volt ...


7

Tyre depth gauges look something like this (amazon link) - you can buy them in any automotive store. You press the green bit against the tyre and push the middle bit into the tread groove. The slidy bit at the top will then tell you the depth. Buy one and have a play, it's easier to see than to explain! You should be able to see the 'wear bars' - raised ...


7

It means "at least". You will not cause any damage by using the higher octane fuel. The reason for the RON 95 rating in the first place, this is the lowest octane rating you can run before you might start hearing pinging or pre-ignition.


6

You're going to need a new key, as used, already programmed keys will not work. You'll have to get your dealer to order the key as they're not keys your dealer or mechanic can make. You'll need to know your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and bring two forms of ID (in my experience) to get a new key; they're very picky about giving out new blank keys, so ...


6

The Mercedes M103 engine in your 300CE is a proven design, old enough to demonstrate its longevity—lots of them are running around still with 300,000+ miles on them. The head gaskets are pretty much the only serious weak point. If the engine was not burning excessive oil (more than a quart every 5,000 miles) or showing other signs of extreme wear before ...


5

I think the listed stats make it pretty clear: you are driving a heavy van with a fairly low power engine. More importantly, it's likely that you have a low torque engine which is critical to keep the vehicle rolling. What you're used to in the passenger car is the same as what happens in the van, just to a lesser degree. In your passenger car, you were ...


5

There are several things that can cause this - the simplest being the road itself! If you are on a cambered road, the car will want to pull towards the edge of the road... Presuming it's a stronger pull than that, your next suspect is the tracking (wheel alignment) - if this is out it will cause it to pull. Most decent tyre fitters will be able to check ...


5

I would like to add two valid points to this discussion as well: 1) When producing engines like this which produce more power with lower CC's, they won't be as smooth as their bigger naturally aspirated predecessors. They will have to rev higher just to produce the same power. So lets say you are driving at 70 MPH with a 5.0 V8, you could comfortably ...


5

I just repaired the identical car, the ignition does not come on and the wheels are locked and it sets steering column mechanical fault codes. This means the solenoid that locks the column to stop the wheel turning is faulty, after it receives the unlock command from the electronic ignition switch it tells the ignition switch it is unlocked and then the ...


5

It very well could be the thermostat. However, did you check the obvious things, like coolant levels and make sure you don't have any air pockets? I had an overheating issue that would manifest after 20 to 40 minutes of running the car, which was due to an air pocket. Usually if it overheats at idle you check the radiator fans, radiator fins bent or ...


5

Can you use them? Yes. Should you use them? Depends on what you are looking for. Most of the times (not always) these special tires are just a modified version of a regular tire. What makes them special? Here is a list of common modifications: A softer compound. This typically increases grip at the expense of longevity. A special size. Sometimes car ...


4

Any key that has already been programmed to a Mercdes will never work in any other car. Once a key has been "flashed" or programmed to one car you can't reprogram the key. Mercedes keys pair "for life", so once you stick a key in the ignition and it works, it's never going to work in another car. It is true that a Mercedes can accept new keys; when you get ...


4

I think this could be related to one if the gearbox synchronizers (take a look into this wikipedia article) to see what I mean, and the one that's failing is the one for first-second shifts, as you describe the issue. I hope that helps


4

Try coming in at an angle. Come in slowly so that you get one wheel up at a time, or come to a stop and roll slowly and turn the wheel while you're moving. This should help the tire grip the side and aid in getting the car up, instead of the motor pushing it entirely, if that makes sense. However, if you're going to be jumping kerbs regularly you should ...


4

Finally found out how to reset the service reminder manually. It was easier than expected. Here it comes in steps: Put in key Turn key to position 2 (this might be tricky, there are 3 positions, but its actually just before the engine starts, all electronics are on, lights flashing on "dashboard") Use buttons on steering wheel to navigate to "Service ...


4

Sounds like a lack of fuel getting to the engine. Get it hot, turn it off pull a fuel line and crank the engine, see if any diesel comes out. It could be a fuel line softening up when it gets warm and pinching shut due to the suction from the pump. If thats the case, replace your fuel lines with proper diesel rated lines.


4

We had the same problem on a late 2005 W169. Note you do not need to remove the door card if you just want to remove the door lock cylinder and exterior handle. Once you've loosened the bolt holding the cylinder accessed from the side of the door (On ours it was a T20 - T15 would work but there's a chance of rounding off the head) there is a catch above the ...


4

It sounds like the issue is with heat rejection. The tell-tale sign is that the coolant temps rise into the red when the car is at idle (low RPM, little air flow across the radiator), but when the car moves the temps drop back down to normal. So what could cause this? A couple of possibilities: low air flow Are the radiator fans turning on when they ...


4

A car battery's power will drop with temperature. It would be my first port of call. Since the car ran fine when you had it jumpstarted with the help of your friend, I would have the battery tested to make sure that it can deliver sufficient juice to the starter.


4

Nope that sounds about perfect. Remember there is a spring on the radiator cap that keeps the engine coolant pressure to around 13 PSI for most manufacturers. Water doesn't boil until around 242°F (117° C) at that pressure. The manufacturers want the water to stay as a liquid because that helps the radiator work better. (Liquid to vapor transfers heat ...


3

You might have a slight leak in the fuel line this will draw air over time and cause you to have to crank till all the air is out .Then it starts fine .Difficult to locate those fine leaks .The fuel runs back in the tank


3

Four months went by between when you last ran the vehicle (December) and when you tried to start it (April). Just like gasoline, diesel fuel can also "gel" and clog up your fuel filters. As a first, low-cost troubleshooting step, change both of your fuel filters. You can use some starting fluid to try and start the vehicle after changing the filters. If ...


3

air filter is a good place to start. Some owners of older diesel MBZs have used Seafoam or diesel purge to some effect. Take a look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCVdSiECajQ be careful, as its easy to hydrolock your motor doing this.


3

The problem may be lack of power for the weight of the vehicle. (I'm unfamiliar with your model, so no idea if this would be normal). Your 215/82 R14 wheels seem tall enough to get over the average curb. As a solution, you can either attempt it with a bit more momentum - rather than coming to a dead stop, roll up and over it at walking speed - or ease the ...


3

If the injectors are fired electrically(which they most likely are), you could wire in a voltage-switch to the injectors, so that it is closed when the injector is fired. This would allow you to measure the time spent open, and do a little math based on the flow-rate of the injector to get a calculated measurement of the fuel injected into the system. If ...


3

That's a Mercedes Benz C140 body, the coupe-version of the S-class w140 limo. For a list of the models, i.e different engines, that was made; take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W140


3

I would think you should be able to if there is a terminal for the wire to attach to. If the terminal has broke off at the base of the sensor, then it probably won't work. I would use a soldering iron, versus open flame type of iron to ensure the heat is more localized. If you are worried about the sensor not working due to the heat, I don't think I would ...



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