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7

There are other factors that affect the start stop feature. I am not sure on that exact model but generally the following things will keep the car engine from shutting off: Coolant Temp too high, or too low The engine has not ran for at least two minutes The AC is on and not in the economy mode Low Vacuum Battery charge low High current draw on the 12 volt ...


6

The short answer is that yes, you can change your differential to optimize fuel efficiency. CAVEAT: it is almost certainly not worth it. Here's a very high level discussion of why there are better ways to achieve the same goal (better fuel efficiency): Think about how the air-fuel mixture in the engine is managed: for each revolution of the engine, a unit ...


5

You're going to need a new key, as used, already programmed keys will not work. You'll have to get your dealer to order the key as they're not keys your dealer or mechanic can make. You'll need to know your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and bring two forms of ID (in my experience) to get a new key; they're very picky about giving out new blank keys, so ...


5

The Mercedes M103 engine in your 300CE is a proven design, old enough to demonstrate its longevity—lots of them are running around still with 300,000+ miles on them. The head gaskets are pretty much the only serious weak point. If the engine was not burning excessive oil (more than a quart every 5,000 miles) or showing other signs of extreme wear before ...


5

There are several things that can cause this - the simplest being the road itself! If you are on a cambered road, the car will want to pull towards the edge of the road... Presuming it's a stronger pull than that, your next suspect is the tracking (wheel alignment) - if this is out it will cause it to pull. Most decent tyre fitters will be able to check ...


4

I think this could be related to one if the gearbox synchronizers (take a look into this wikipedia article) to see what I mean, and the one that's failing is the one for first-second shifts, as you describe the issue. I hope that helps


4

I think the listed stats make it pretty clear: you are driving a heavy van with a fairly low power engine. More importantly, it's likely that you have a low torque engine which is critical to keep the vehicle rolling. What you're used to in the passenger car is the same as what happens in the van, just to a lesser degree. In your passenger car, you were ...


4

We had the same problem on a late 2005 W169. Note you do not need to remove the door card if you just want to remove the door lock cylinder and exterior handle. Once you've loosened the bolt holding the cylinder accessed from the side of the door (On ours it was a T20 - T15 would work but there's a chance of rounding off the head) there is a catch above the ...


3

You might have a slight leak in the fuel line this will draw air over time and cause you to have to crank till all the air is out .Then it starts fine .Difficult to locate those fine leaks .The fuel runs back in the tank


3

Four months went by between when you last ran the vehicle (December) and when you tried to start it (April). Just like gasoline, diesel fuel can also "gel" and clog up your fuel filters. As a first, low-cost troubleshooting step, change both of your fuel filters. You can use some starting fluid to try and start the vehicle after changing the filters. If ...


2

air filter is a good place to start. Some owners of older diesel MBZs have used Seafoam or diesel purge to some effect. Take a look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCVdSiECajQ be careful, as its easy to hydrolock your motor doing this.


2

If the injectors are fired electrically(which they most likely are), you could wire in a voltage-switch to the injectors, so that it is closed when the injector is fired. This would allow you to measure the time spent open, and do a little math based on the flow-rate of the injector to get a calculated measurement of the fuel injected into the system. If ...


2

Try coming in at an angle. Come in slowly so that you get one wheel up at a time, or come to a stop and roll slowly and turn the wheel while you're moving. This should help the tire grip the side and aid in getting the car up, instead of the motor pushing it entirely, if that makes sense. However, if you're going to be jumping kerbs regularly you should ...


2

Any key that has already been programmed to a Mercdes will never work in any other car. Once a key has been "flashed" or programmed to one car you can't reprogram the key. Mercedes keys pair "for life", so once you stick a key in the ignition and it works, it's never going to work in another car. It is true that a Mercedes can accept new keys; when you get ...


2

Since the Marecedes "Smart Keys" are proprietary, only Mercedes's manufactoring partners make them; since they're programmed with electronic codes only Mercedes makes them and they're very protective over who they'll give a key to, since a blank key will program itself to any compatible Mercedes and become the key for that car. This is why I really ...


2

Finally found out how to reset the service reminder manually. It was easier than expected. Here it comes in steps: Put in key Turn key to position 2 (this might be tricky, there are 3 positions, but its actually just before the engine starts, all electronics are on, lights flashing on "dashboard") Use buttons on steering wheel to navigate to "Service ...


2

I wouldn't recommend fitting different size wheels on each axle unless you really need to. If nothing else it makes things a real pain if you have a puncture!


2

For the fronts, the main issue is whether the tyres rub on the wheel arch- bigger tyres have less clearance at full lock. Have a look at the clearance with the current tyres at full lock and you should be able to work it out.


2

Maybe it is timing chain tensioner sound?


2

In my experience tirerack.com does a fantastic job of determining appropriate fitments for all kinds of cars. They do list some 17" wheel fits for the 2003 C320, but they suggest a 225/45-17, not 245/45-17. Your current rear wheel/tire setup is a bit bigger in diameter than their recommended packages. Their recommended 19" fitment is either 225/35-19 all ...


2

That's a Mercedes Benz C140 body, the coupe-version of the S-class w140 limo. For a list of the models, i.e different engines, that was made; take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W140


2

Sounds like a lack of fuel getting to the engine. Get it hot, turn it off pull a fuel line and crank the engine, see if any diesel comes out. It could be a fuel line softening up when it gets warm and pinching shut due to the suction from the pump. If thats the case, replace your fuel lines with proper diesel rated lines.


2

I'm not sure you should trust to intuition here :-) I wouldn't expect the leak to be due to the oil in the system. Instead I would see both as symptoms of the more general problem of things wearing out. I'm concerned they didn't source a new oil pump - without it, parts of the engine or coolant system may overheat and this could lead to leaks such as the ...


2

One thing to consider when replacing a head gasket is that your engine's head may have warped ever so slightly when the car overheated (caused by the blown head gasket). If that's the case, it would have to be machined by a workshop. As for actually replacing the gasket yourself, it's a matter of removing the top part of the engine, scraping away the ...


2

I would think you should be able to if there is a terminal for the wire to attach to. If the terminal has broke off at the base of the sensor, then it probably won't work. I would use a soldering iron, versus open flame type of iron to ensure the heat is more localized. If you are worried about the sensor not working due to the heat, I don't think I would ...


2

I'm a little concerned by the proposed fixes. While I don't know the specifics of your Merc, I find it odd that the timing chain would be responsible for fuel trim codes. The ECU swap seems to be a concerted attempt at what I like to call 'parts roulette': possible, but not probable. If you have codes for fuel trims and misfires, the principal components ...


2

Depending on the class/model, there should be somewhere between 1.5-2.1 USG (~6-8 litres) left in the tank when the light comes on. Here is some interesting reading on this very subject. It seems MB has had a lot of problems with their fuel level indicators. Seems the "best defense" against this is to never let it get below a 1/4 tank on the gauge. Either ...


2

Think I might be stupid. Should have checked around more. Checked around online, as I had before, but this time found a yahoo answer I had not seen before. "'98-'03 ML320 which would make it a gasoline engine and it uses 8 L or 8.5 quarts. ". Looks like I far underestimated how much oil this beast uses. Guess I'll oil it up some more and hope for the best.


1

This almost sounds like you have an obstruction somewhere in the intake path as it sounds to me that the carb either doesn't open all the way or it can't get enough air in even if the carb is fully opened. CD175s have a (rubber) diaphragm - these get old, crack and tear after a while. That would be the first check I'd make.


1

I like the fuel idea; cheap and easy fix, but also think about the fuel pump/return. If your pump is going bad you'll have low pressure which causes a hard start. Also if the fuel is allowed to flow back into the tank you'll have an issue.



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