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Huh? Worn? I seriously doubt that. I would think you could remove and install a drain bolt 100 times without wear. (Note: I'm assuming steel oil pan here.. I guess it's possible for an aluminum oil pan to get stripped out after repeated insertions. What is your oil pan made of, aluminum or steel?) First off the primary seal for and oil drain bolt is ...


If the threads in the drain are worn (i.e. the threads where you screw in the drain plug) then the risk is that you will be leaking oil. If you are only leaking a small amount of oil then this is not a serious problem as long as you don't let the oil level get too low. If there is a serious leak then you should get it fixed before taking a long trip.


Check at least for the following: Paint color match and alignment of panels. Stand a short distance in front of the vehicle and look for uniformity between the left and right sides. Check for overspray (repainting) under the hood/fenders. If any overspray is visible, repairs were likely shoddy. On later model cars, look for a small VIN decal - under ...


Uneven bonnet gaps These are a dead giveaway of a bad repair job - also, check if the gap is too large or small for the car - try and get a photo from a similar angle to one existing to check. Also check door gaps, boot gaps, panel gaps for any misalignment. Check underneath Try and get under the car if you can - if you're mechanically minded you should ...


In addition to the other fine answers, you should inspect the crumple zones, which are most easily inspected by looking between the fender bolts under the hood. On most vehicles, you should see the factory ripples in the sheet metal. If that metal looks like it was ever deformed, painted, or replaced, then walk away from the car.


You said "the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt." The dealer should know for a fact that the car was rebuilt and issued a salvaged title, if not, walk away. On top of that, if the seller is slow, hesitant, or unwilling to comply with any of your requests for information about, or access to the vehicle, walk away. The most common damage in deer ...


I'd be asking if the car was put on a chassis rig when it was repaired. If it's even had just one day on a rig, it was clearly enough of an impact that made the assessor/repairer think it might be a write-off. If it wasn't put on a chassis rig, the next thing to look at are signs of welding along the forward chassis, particularly radiator support and crash ...


According to this that extra space is for the integrated fog light, which is probably where the fog light would be if you didn't have the separate fog light.


I would say that the extra "light" isn't a light at all - it's just there give the headlight a certain look. You have already accounted for all the different possible lights on a regular, mass-produced passenger vehicle so there shouldn't be any other light present in the headlight assembly.


If it is a slipping clutch it will get worse soon, and you will know for sure, from your description, yes it is slipping. Yours is a FWD car, they are a bit more difficult than a RWD most of the time, you will need an engine support bar to hold the engine while you remove the transmission, after the trans is out this support bar will suspend the engine so ...


That is a dealer ID tag. The salesman and managers use it to check keys in and out. They should have taken it off of the key before they handed it to you. If you don't want it, just take it off and throw it away (if the dealership sucked) or take it off and return it if you feel extra nice. EDIT: Here is the webpage for them. Their claim is inventory ...

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