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13

What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are usually located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is completely normal.


10

Just replace it. You're talking about a car from 1997. If you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced, I'm inclined to believe that it hasn't ever been changed. Very quick Googling shows me that a 323 fuel filter from that timeframe costs less than $20 USD. If you really wanted to assure yourself that it's a problematic filter, you could ...


7

I think you threw a wheel weight. Let's consider this quote from the great Wikipedia: When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to ...


7

A simple test that you can perform in your own driveway is: For each corner of the car, push down hard several times (the car should be bouncing visibly up and down) When pushed down, release and watch The car should bounce upwards (above the normal resting point) and then immediately settle at the resting point. Additional bouncing indicates worn or ...


7

Apparently, this is the Mazda limp home mode. If you check that link, two common causes are: Vacuum leaks Bad ABV solenoids In discussing with your mechanic, I would suggest first having them scan for codes to see what is triggering the limp mode.


7

They really are that simple - as long as you torque them correctly, there isn't a lot that can go wrong. They are designed to be as straightforward as possible - they don't require calibration, measurement etc. Make sure the connector is securely on the top of the spark plug, and make sure you don't get oil or grease on the contacts. And do them one at a ...


7

The question is can I just go out and buy any 17mm bolt that is the same length as the current one, No. or is there some kind of material requirement? Yes. Think about the jobs that those bolts are doing: they support the steady state mass of the vehicle and the transient spring loads of the transmission. That means that those bolts need to ...


6

If the noise is only happening when the clutch is engaged (pedal out), it's not the throw out bearing. You'd only hear the noise when you push on the pedal. This is because the only time the throw out bearing is being used is when you are pushing the pedal down. It won't contact the clutch fingers any other time, and therefor cannot make noise with the ...


5

Unfortunately wheels will get dirty first - they are closest to the ground so will pick up everything; they also pick up brake dust, which is very sticky. This means there is no silver bullet here - you need to wash frequently, and apply a wax if you want to slow down the build up of crud. Use a wheel cleaner solution to dissolve the worst grime and combat ...


5

It sounds to me like a dead battery. Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery. What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...


5

The oil stuff is more than likely caused from what the intake pulls out of the crank case through the PCV. If you can get a hold of a couple cans of Seafoam, this should take care of the residue about as easy as you can do it without taking the engine apart. Use the rubber hose to the right of the photo to introduce it into your system. As an engine gets ...


4

Unfortunately, there are many, many things that can cause a rough idle. I'll try to cover a few things that might help with the diagnosis. I'm sure that there are many others that could be added. Like I mentioned in my comment, it's definitely not the fuel filter. If a fuel filter was bad enough to affect idle it would stall instead of accelerate. A ...


4

The first major symptom that appears when spark plug gaps get too big (from wear) is that you get a band of hesitation only at full throttle and somewhere well below peak torque. This is the band where the most voltage is required for a successful spark, because at this time mixture is most dense. Below this band the mixture is less dense because less ...


4

First off I can say that I have done something like this, but with the ignition and not the horn - my friends ignition switch broke so we wired a bright red push button directly from the battery (well - actually a fused 12v line inside the car) to the starter motor coil - it has since worked like a champ for nearly two years. First off - DO NOT wire ...


4

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any). Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty. If no voltage ...


4

Based on your wiring diagram, the relay is inside the switch, and based on that it's not serviceable. Based on the picture you posted here That black square box on the switch (tyco) is the relay. Here is are the specs (PDF) Here is a where you can buy it Based on that I would say it's replaceable, with some soldering required. It would take some ...


4

I like to put a little anti-seize on the threads before putting the new plugs in. That helps ensure the plugs come out nice and easy the next time you have to do it. It doesn't need very much and make sure not to get any of it on the electrodes.


4

The firewall is typically made up of metal with a layer of fire retardant material. There are holes through the firewall for necessary pipes, wires etc from the engine bay to the passenger compartment. With old cars (much older than a Mazda 323) I have seen heavily rusted firewalls, but not seen anything like that recently. It certainly shouldn't be a ...


4

You should do a load test on your battery and see if you have a damaged cell. If this is not the case, check for a parasitic draw test on your vehicle, which basically tells you if something is on and draining your battery.


4

I found the following on the iKeyless website, which indicates that you cannot program the key yourself and would need the dealer or a locksmith to do it. Key Cutting/Programming: Programming instructions are not included. This device requires cutting and programming by a dealership or locksmith. The procedure takes only a few seconds to complete ...


4

Sounds to me like the technician didn't burnish (or seat) the brake pads. Anytime you replace the brakes pads you should make several hard stops (not enough to activate the ABS) from 35 and then 55 mph. This seats the pads to the rotors, and eliminates the spongy feeling.


4

This should be safe logically and based on personal experience. Most cruise control systems use engine vacuum to pull on the throttle cable and the vacuum is always there when the engine is on anyways, so there is nothing mechanical running behind your system switch. 2012 Mazda 3's have either electronic throttles or cable. The cruise control system with ...


4

I think you need to do a throttle position sensor recalibration (reset). (NOTE: I will post several different adjustment versions. I believe the top one is what you need (for a K8 engine), but will include another four depending on your engine.) To do this for your vehicle you need to follow the steps below, depending on whether it is a stick/auto and ...


4

Disconnect your battery to reset your ECU. It won't hurt, and is probably the cheapest and easiest thing you can try. 30 minutes is usually enough. There are other theories as to why your mileage went down, but I think you're on the right track thinking the ECU hasn't learned to use the new data correctly. I am thinking that because your new 02 sensor is ...


4

You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English). If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances ...


4

The pulsing should not be a huge issue. Remember that your 4-cyl engine will not have a constant vacuum associated with it as it is only drawing it twice per revolution of the crankshaft, which means you'll get vacuum pulses. Vehicles with more cylinders will have a more constant vacuum draw, but will still have vacuum pulses ... they'll just be less ...


4

This is an average of the figures for constant speed (highway) driving in top gear and city/traffic driving with lots of gear shifts. The ratio is usually 50/50 so they'll measure e.g. 100 miles of highway driving, then 100miles of city driving, add the figures together and divide by two to get the combined average. Though to get those same figures, you're ...


4

You said "valve gaskets" but I'm going to assume you actually mean the valve seals. Since you are seeing a small puff of smoke sometimes during startup and when you are accelerating, these are usually caused by two separate issues, both of which you are mentioning. Start-up puff of smoke can usually be attributed to bad valve seals. This is because oil ...


3

Found an online document and it solved the problem. The cap on top of the engine is the motor oil http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/quicktips/01Mazda626QT.pdf


3

You should never mess with the safety systems, ever. How tall is your GF? If she's short enough (I believe under 5') the air bag could be dangerous, given that it will hit her at an unsafe position. Given that, it may be better that the airbag is in fact off. Supposing she's of average height, you've only got two real next steps. Push the dealer harder, ...



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