Hot answers tagged

17

I agree with your praise for this car, I had one back in the day and I have never loved a car as much since. To get more from this Wankel powered beauty, it's all about two things: Getting it to breath better Replacing parts that won't take the higher RPM The good news is that the only part that needs to be replaced, is the RPM gauge sender on the face ...


15

What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are usually located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is completely normal.


13

I'd be asking if the car was put on a chassis rig when it was repaired. If it's even had just one day on a rig, it was clearly enough of an impact that made the assessor/repairer think it might be a write-off. If it wasn't put on a chassis rig, the next thing to look at are signs of welding along the forward chassis, particularly radiator support and crash ...


11

Just replace it. You're talking about a car from 1997. If you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced, I'm inclined to believe that it hasn't ever been changed. Very quick Googling shows me that a 323 fuel filter from that timeframe costs less than $20 USD. If you really wanted to assure yourself that it's a problematic filter, you could ...


9

I think you threw a wheel weight. Let's consider this quote from the great Wikipedia: When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to ...


9

No. Not by any significant or even measurable amount. Constantly using the shifter may, over time, wear the bushes and linkages prematurely but these parts are usually inexpensive and simple to replace. The transmission itself will be unaffected.


8

They really are that simple - as long as you torque them correctly, there isn't a lot that can go wrong. They are designed to be as straightforward as possible - they don't require calibration, measurement etc. Make sure the connector is securely on the top of the spark plug, and make sure you don't get oil or grease on the contacts. And do them one at a ...


8

Just like with any other internal combustion engine, there are two ways to increase power output: add more cubic inches of displacement; make the motor think it has a larger displacement. More Displacement The rotary engine (Wankel) is a different breed. You cannot just bore/stroke the engine like with other piston based engines, so you have to go a ...


8

According to this that extra space is for the integrated fog light, which is probably where the fog light would be if you didn't have the separate fog light.


8

You said "the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt." The dealer should know for a fact that the car was rebuilt and issued a salvaged title, if not, walk away. On top of that, if the seller is slow, hesitant, or unwilling to comply with any of your requests for information about, or access to the vehicle, walk away. The most common damage in deer ...


7

A simple test that you can perform in your own driveway is: For each corner of the car, push down hard several times (the car should be bouncing visibly up and down) When pushed down, release and watch The car should bounce upwards (above the normal resting point) and then immediately settle at the resting point. Additional bouncing indicates worn or ...


7

Apparently, this is the Mazda limp home mode. If you check that link, two common causes are: Vacuum leaks Bad ABV solenoids In discussing with your mechanic, I would suggest first having them scan for codes to see what is triggering the limp mode.


7

The question is can I just go out and buy any 17mm bolt that is the same length as the current one, No. or is there some kind of material requirement? Yes. Think about the jobs that those bolts are doing: they support the steady state mass of the vehicle and the transient spring loads of the transmission. That means that those bolts need to be ...


6

Sounds to me like the technician didn't burnish (or seat) the brake pads. Anytime you replace the brakes pads you should make several hard stops (not enough to activate the ABS) from 35 and then 55 mph. This seats the pads to the rotors, and eliminates the spongy feeling.


6

You said "valve gaskets" but I'm going to assume you actually mean the valve seals. Since you are seeing a small puff of smoke sometimes during startup and when you are accelerating, these are usually caused by two separate issues, both of which you are mentioning. Start-up puff of smoke can usually be attributed to bad valve seals. This is because oil ...


6

The oil stuff is more than likely caused from what the intake pulls out of the crank case through the PCV. If you can get a hold of a couple cans of Seafoam, this should take care of the residue about as easy as you can do it without taking the engine apart. Use the rubber hose to the right of the photo to introduce it into your system. As an engine gets ...


6

If the noise is only happening when the clutch is engaged (pedal out), it's not the throw out bearing. You'd only hear the noise when you push on the pedal. This is because the only time the throw out bearing is being used is when you are pushing the pedal down. It won't contact the clutch fingers any other time, and therefor cannot make noise with the ...


6

Oil leak is unrelated. You should fix that. (: There are various possibilities: The temperature gauge is faulty or the sender that sends the gauge the temperature reading is. Test: Block part of the front of the radiator with a piece of cardboard. This will force the system temperature to raise. Drive around for a little. Watch the gauge. Does it go to ...


6

Possible culprits: A bad headlight relay Have the relay tested or replaced. It could be that the switch for the main circuit is intermittently stuck-closed. A closed-circuit in the light switch or relay getting grounded Eliminating a bad relay would leave you the possibility that the relay is being activated when it shouldn't through an intermittent ...


6

Mow much money do you have? :D In all seriousness: Swap in a later 13B engine and give it a fresh rebuild. Install a Racing Beat header and exhaust system. The Racing Beat intake is also pretty good. Mind you, this is setup for the upper rev range. Put a good carburetor on it, like a Holley 600 (mechanical secondaries). Do not remove the belt driven fan! ...


5

Unfortunately wheels will get dirty first - they are closest to the ground so will pick up everything; they also pick up brake dust, which is very sticky. This means there is no silver bullet here - you need to wash frequently, and apply a wax if you want to slow down the build up of crud. Use a wheel cleaner solution to dissolve the worst grime and combat ...


5

I have a 1997 626 Mazda 2L (manual) and it shook at idle and got progressively worse. It turned out to be the intake manifold seal. Its cheap to fix about $12 for a new gasket. To diagnose it is simple too, spray where the intake manifold joins the engine with a can of "jump start" or similar and if the idle picks up you have an air leak. Mazda's are prone ...


5

Unfortunately, there are many, many things that can cause a rough idle. I'll try to cover a few things that might help with the diagnosis. I'm sure that there are many others that could be added. Like I mentioned in my comment, it's definitely not the fuel filter. If a fuel filter was bad enough to affect idle it would stall instead of accelerate. A ...


5

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any). Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty. If no voltage ...


5

It sounds to me like a dead battery. Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery. What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...


5

I like to put a little anti-seize on the threads before putting the new plugs in. That helps ensure the plugs come out nice and easy the next time you have to do it. It doesn't need very much and make sure not to get any of it on the electrodes.


5

I found the following on the iKeyless website, which indicates that you cannot program the key yourself and would need the dealer or a locksmith to do it. Key Cutting/Programming: Programming instructions are not included. This device requires cutting and programming by a dealership or locksmith. The procedure takes only a few seconds to complete ...


5

Most of the time on the Mazda3 the blame is defective engine mounts, they are too soft. Its the upper mount that's the prevalent one. There are aftermarket replacements available. Now there are a few other things that it could be. Massive air leaks, check the EGR valve. It would be a good idea to do a smoke test on the intake and engine. The test ...


5

You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English). If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances ...


5

Your problem could be caused by two things. A shitty car charger, they are not all created equal, or a ground loop. As far as the charger goes try several different ones, name brand ones tend to be the best (htc, iphone, samsung, etc...). If the problem goes away then it was the charger. As far as a ground loop, what happens is that the ground potential ...



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