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When you shift and your RPMS drop too low this will cause the car to shake due to lack of fuel. The car is almost about to stall, try pressing on the gas during take off and not to shift gears and force the rpms to drop below 2000.


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The clutch is responsible for disengaging the engine from the transmission. There are basically 2 issues you can have with a clutch - slipping, and not disengaging. Slipping will occur when your clutch is engaged, but the engine revs up without accelerating the vehicle, as if you were still riding the clutch. This means you need a new clutch. Not ...


1

Use Honda's website, dude. Call the dealer and ask if you can buy the parts book. http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2014-civic-4-ex-cvt&sn=&b=B++45&dl=


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I don't know if this is what you are looking for, but I often reverse engineer through looking at online sources like rockauto.com. I will find the part I need on there. Many of them will have the associated original part number if not the original parts listed themselves.


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If you're only having problems with 2,4,R, I'd suspect the gear linkages rather than the clutch - it sounds like it's not going fully into gear, which probably means the fore-aft linkage is loose or misaligned. I had a similar problem on a Peugeot many years ago, it turned out in that case that the gearbox mount had broken, allowing the 'box to drop enough ...


4

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


3

On top of what Paul already suggested... It is interesting that it is 2nd, 4th, and reverse (assuming that reverse is next to 4th) since they are all on the bottom half. Not sure what would break/wear out to cause that. Follow the cable from to pedal to the throw out arm to check for damage. Check the connections at the pedal and the transmission. Have ...


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I would try and readjust the clutch again and see if that helps. According to the Haynes manual: ... there should be 1-2 milimeters of free play at the bell crank lower end. That's not very much play. Secondarily, I see from this forum, you might have an issue akin to one I had on my car way back when. Check the firewall where the cable goes ...


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CV joints will clack. Wheel bearings will grind, often only in one direction. CV joints will also have lash.


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The noise you describe is a VERY common issue with the transmission in the model of RX-7 you are driving. As a matter of fact, my current RX-7 (1991, 220k miles) has this exact same issue. Based on your description, the noise is almost certainly coming from the transmission's input shaft bearing - not any part of the clutch assembly, or anything that would ...


3

I can think of three scenarios which may be causing your issue: As @amphibient stated, the synchro may be going bad This could also be due to poor shifting technique. If you don't press the clutch down all the way, you may find yourself grinding gears. If you release the clutch too soon during the shift, you are going to see the same. If you have a weak ...


1

I have the same problem with my Tacoma when shifting from the 2nd into the 3rd. The reason in my, and more than likely your case as well are bad syncro rings and the only fix pretty much is to take the gearbox out and either replace the whole thing or rebuild the syncros.



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