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9

Yes you need to replace the grease when you replace the boot. That grease lubricates the joint, if you don't have enough inside the boot the joint can fail prematurely. On a side note don't use one of the quick boots (the ones designed to be put on without taking the CV joint off of the car), in my experience they are worthless. Here is an example of a ...


9

I found a reference pdf for GM's Oil Life Monitor System. How does the system work? The GM Oil Life Monitor System is not a mileage counter. It is actually a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors ...


8

Wikipedia has a great page on Synthetic Oils, specifically their performance. Pros: Better high and low temperature performance. They act more like a thinner oil at lower temperatures and like a thicker oil at higher temperatures, without the disadvantages of multiviscosity oils like 10W40. Especially useful when initially starting. Reduced problems ...


8

A full synthetic oil, as the name states, is "synthesized". By that, they mean it is made in a lab, it is a manufactured product. Organic (Dino) oil is a product of nature. So the big difference is the environment in which the oil is made in. The main selling point on synthetic over organic is because it is manufactured, it is made in a controlled ...


6

The oil pan never gets hot enough in normal operation to soften the metal of the oil pan or the drain plug, and any thermal expansion at that temperature also shouldn't be much of a concern. For me the ideal temperature is maybe about 20-30 minutes after a drive, or when I can safely put my hand on the drain plug for a few seconds. The oil is still warm ...


5

I'm not sure how long any sort of grease would last before it worked its way out? I'd be tempted to go for a more mechanical solution (if you have access to appropriate tools, or a frielndly machine shop) - drill a small hole in the socket and tap it to a suitable thread, then insert a grub screw to bear onto the side of the ball and stop it moving. That ...


4

You state the mirrors are anodized aluminum, but if the ball or socket are steel, you might try (gasp) intentionally rusting one of the surfaces. Here's one technique for accomplishing that.


3

By the time you need a fuel filter change it is time to replace the hoses also. Simply cut the hose off the fuel line and replace it using new clamps. When you get you filter ask the person at the counter for a foot of high pressure fuel hose. There was a time when they actually included the hose section and clamps in the box with the filter.


3

Low-tech fix: If you can find a way to grip it, you may be able to use a hammer and drift punch or very small chisel in order to pound/indent the lip of the socket (hole) inward toward the hole which has the effect of squeezing the socket tighter around the ball. Probably hard to do, but worth a mention.


2

You should use what your manual specifically says, not the guy at the auto parts store. Nick C's answer in most situations will probably be correct, that it is just more expensive with more stuff in it that won't apply to your diff and not hurt anything. However, depending on your specific differential, those additional items could cause problems. As a ...


2

This is an educated assumption... In geology a mineral's hardness is measured according to different scales. A common one is Mohs scale of hardness, which ranks minerals from softest (talc) to hardest (diamond). The only way a mineral can scratch the other, is for the mohs hardness value to be higher. Now, according to the link: Graphite - 1.5 Copper - 3 ...


2

There isn't any kind of application you can apply to the hose to make it easier to take off at a later time. The reasoning is it would be too easy for the hose to slip off during normal operation. And by the time you replace the fuel filter again it wouldn't even be there anymore as it's not a regular maintenance object. Just doing what you did (Twisting ...


2

The maintenance schedules says At Each Oil Change: Open the left and right door (slowly) and inspect for excessive dirt. If noise exist wipe clean and apply krytox lube to the door rollers. Not sure if that's referring to the front driver/passenger doors or the sliding doors. I would break out the Mark I eyeballs and see if you can see any sign of ...


1

Changing the engine oil while it is hot is the usual way of changing engine oil. It allows the oil to flow from the engine more easily taking less time. Other then time-taken it will make no difference to an oil change. Both the sump and sump plug will have the same degree of expansion, minimal, and will have no real tendancy to cause damage. Damaged sump ...


1

I would grease the door hinges once or twice a year. When it comes to grease, having too much is never a bad thing other than the fact that it makes a mess. The best type of grease to use is white lithium grease because it is thick and will not run out of the door hinge. To apply it just spray it in the gaps between the door part of the hinge and the body ...


1

Ideally you want to grease before it squeeks.If you wait until it is squeeking you have metal on metal contact somewhere in the hinge.That kind of contact results in hinge wear.As a side note an unlubricated hinge requires more effort to close the door and that can resultin broken armrests or door pulls.I generally lube the drivers door every other oil ...


1

put the bike up on a rear stand clean the chain - use a degreaser designed for the purpose and a stiff nylon brush, wash a few bits at a time spinning the wheel to access more portions of the chain rinse off the degreaser use a water repellent to get rid of the water dry off with a rag use a good quality chain lube in a spray (there are different types ...


1

I have used GL-5 in my rear differential for the past ten years and driven over 100,000 miles. I just did a R&R with new GL-5 as recommended by manufacturer. When I examined the old GL-5 , I found no metal flakes in the old as far as I can tell. I recommend following manufacturer recommnedation. No need to try new stuff.


1

From what I can tell, Limslip oil is designed for vehicles with limited slip differentials, and thus has extra additives over a normal hypoid gear oil. Hypoid oils have additives to help them cope under extreme pressure, but as limited slip diffs still have hypoid gears in, I would assume limslip oil also has the same additives. I suspect, therefore, that ...


1

I don't know about newer cars, however in older cars the "check oil" light is far less complicated - there is simply a sensor somewhere inside the engine block which turns the check oil light on if the oil goes below a certain level. At times when the oil in my engine has been low I've noticed that the light turns on and off (or even flickers) depending on ...



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