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19

The reason headlight bulbs are so sensitive is their high wattage, halogen design and therefore high heat. Almost all other bulbs in the car are low-wattage incandescent which makes them easier to deal with. In your house you can screw in a normal light bulb by hand, but the thin halogen tubes that go in some lamps should also be handled with gloves. Same ...


12

The short answer is: they're for other people. Here's a practical example: I drive a black car. In the late summer, the trees around my neighborhood really overhang the road and block a lot of the lower-angle sunlight. Also, the roads near my house range from 10-20 residential roads to full highway speeds. So, at a glance, my car doesn't passively give ...


10

There are a number of ways to do this, but the two that come immediately to mind are battery-powered LED work lights. (A quick internet search will turn up many). Two varieties might be of use/interest to you. Some can be powered by the vehicle's battery which is convenient unless you're doing something like replacing a flat battery. Others have their ...


9

Battery operated flashlights or worklights which share batteries with your cordless tools would be a good option. These will allow you to work on the car even with a dead or disconnected battery. Choosing the right tool will give you either an area light or a focused light. Examples from one manufacturer: Other major makers such as DeWalt and Milwaukee ...


8

As the Wikipedia entry says, one benefit is that they improve visibility of the car. The idea is that they improve the safety of the vehicle. Although: A 2008 study by the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration analysed the effect of DRLs on frontal and side-on crashes between two vehicles and on vehicle collisions with pedestrians, ...


8

To track down and troubleshoot electrical issues, you will almost certainly need a multimeter (also known as a Volt-Ohm meter) - digital ones are best, like the one illustrated below (from Wikipedia) You can get cheap ones, which are fine for most automotive stuff, or much more expensive ones with all sorts of clever features. The two most useful things ...


7

Here is a diagram for the basic 4 wire trailer. Yellow - Left Stop/Turn (the big filament as you described in the left bulb) Green - Right Stop/Turn (the big filament as you described in the right bulb) Brown - Parking/Marker lights (the small filament as you described in both the right and left side bulbs) White - Ground They all hook to the ...


7

They are being used as approach lights. When someone unlocks their car with the remote the car turns on lights around the car. I think the idea is to light up the ground around the car for you to better see where you are stepping and maybe for security. Some cars turn on the headlights, interior lights, parking lights etc. You point does make turning on the ...


7

Tools Digital Multimiter Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM) CAUTION: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere ...


7

EDIT: I have heard that you do not need to remove the entire wing panelling. I certainly didn't on my 2003 Opel Agila. Just remove the screws from the front of the wing on the bottom of the car. Makes life easier. YOUR MILAGE MAY VARY ON THE CORSA! This is what Vauxhall has to say about the front fog lights. Firstly, we need to remove the inner paneling (...


7

From looking at your wiring diagram, you have clearly blown your main 15A fuse. This explains why nothing is working from the battery, but once the engine is running, your magneto is powering all the electrics. The disconnected wire must have shorted out and blown the fuse. In the tail light, the green wire is the 'earth' wire. The brown wire is the ...


6

Each bulb have some sort of life time expectancy so if two lamps are installed at the same time and one fails after a long period of time you can deduce that the other can be close to failure as well so for security some people and manufacturers ($$$$) recommend replacing both at the same time. The thing is that there is no rule since a lot of factors come ...


6

Possible culprits: A bad headlight relay Have the relay tested or replaced. It could be that the switch for the main circuit is intermittently stuck-closed. A closed-circuit in the light switch or relay getting grounded Eliminating a bad relay would leave you the possibility that the relay is being activated when it shouldn't through an intermittent ...


6

I can think of several reasons straight away: Cheap Easy to replace Have a very distinctive click that makes it obvious when they are on, and when a bulb has failed Are very well understood Anyone can fit one without needing to understand much about electronics


6

On the Expedition the hazard, lower brake lights, and turn signals all route through the multi-function switch. Gain access to the multi-function switch connector and back probe the light green wire while pressing the brakes. Does it have power? If it yes back probe the light green/orange and orange/light blue wires while pressing the brakes. Does it have ...


6

It is possible that the adjustment is not correct, i.e. the lights are still shining too steep down though the knob is set to 0. Though you can test this on your own, shops will do this with more precision. It doesn't cost much and may be for free. DucatiKiller suggests high-power bulbs in his comment. From the legal side (they're for sure illegal in the UK,...


5

The cheapest option would be to polish the current light housings. You can get a kit at walmart of at any auto parts store that will allow you to turn foggy (but in otherwise good condition) headlights into much, much clearer lenses. The kits cost $15 to $20, and basically require you to use your drill, some paste, and possibly some water, to wet sand the ...


5

My friend faced a similar issue on his '03 Nissan Maxima. In his case we discovered that the brake pedal switch was not making any contact with the pedal linkage. The switch relies on contact with the linkage to break the brake light circuit. If there is no contact with the switch (like when the brake pedal is pressed) the switch will complete the circuit ...


5

Above the pedal should be a button, with 2 wires coming out of it. When your pedal is up, the button will be pressed all the way down, as you press the pedal, be button will release. At some point this button turns on your tail lights. I know the one on my truck is adjustable (because I've had to adjust it). In this case, you remove the wires from the ...


5

It sounds like you have a ground issue. When the running lights are on they are actually grounding through the brake lights. When you apply the brakes it cuts off the ground and the lights go out. The turn signals only look like their working. They are probably turning on and off when they should be getting brighter and dimmer. Double check the wiring on ...


5

A "dead" car battery can still have more than enough juice to run things like LED lights, phone chargers, etc. - and lots of us have one kicking round the workshop we haven't got round to disposing of. Sticking one in your boot (sorry, trunk) to take with you is easy enough, and then charge it as far as possible when you get back to civilisation. If you're ...


4

Sort of. Older filaments in headlights can be noticeably duller. If you are OCD, it might benefit you. Typically when one bulb goes out, the others that were replaced at the same time are probably near their end of life. Or, perhaps not. I don't replace things that aren't broken. Otherwise, it's just more money for the parts store.


4

This sounds most likely to be a fault in the switch in the indicator stalk - normally you have a physical linkage which keeps the turn indicator flashing while you turn a corner, then it releases as the steering wheel straightens. I can imagine a couple of ways this could fail and allow the spring in that mechanical return to perhaps trigger the right ...


4

There are only a few parts in play here. The reverse light switch in/on the transmission, the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, the tail lamp assembly, and the lightbulb itself. I would check the bulb first. If the filament is broken in just the right way, it can cause the flashing symptoms that you're experiencing. The part number for the bulb is 3156 (...


4

My mom's Prius HID bulb died (under warranty) so she took it in to get it replaced. The dealer replaced one of the bulbs and it was a completely different color than the original. I finally bought her two new bulbs from Amazon and replaced them for her because it was so bothersome. In a situation like that it is definitely worth it to replace both at the ...


4

As Peter mentioned the primary benefit is safety by making your vehicle more visible to others. Therefore, it is more useful in a city than a rural area where you would have more people who need to see your vehicle. Another advantage of daytime running lights, is that insurance companies typically give a discount on vehicles equipped with this option.


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...


4

It could be a loose bulb, corrosion in the socket, or most probably a filament which is going bad. I doubt it's anything catastrophically expensive to fix. Easiest first try is to just pull the bulb and look for corrosion in the socket. Next see if the filament wiggles inside the bulb. If all else fails, just replace the bulb with a new one. If none of this ...


4

Its a mixture is tradition and function. Red has been used to signify "Stop" much longer and in many more applications than just motor vehicles. Stop and Do-Not-Enter signs are used everywhere. Possibly, although I can not confirm or cite a source, in history blood was used to mark doors and entryways that should not be entered and therefor the red color ...


4

This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is ...



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