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7

A typical 1157 taillight bulb looks like this: The filaments have a common connected to the shell and the other end of each goes to each the two terminals on the bottom of the bulb. The bayonet pins are offset so the bulb can only be inserted one way. In the case of the 1157 bulb, the elements are 26.8W/8.3W, and have about a 10:1 difference in lumens ...


6

This is very common, and not a problem. When you are starting your car, the load on the battery is huge compared to when the engine is running, as the starter motor is having to turn the crankshaft and push the pistons while the oil is cold and thick, and additionally compressing air into the cylinders, pumping fuel and causing a spark, while also driving ...


4

Bad coils are just one of many things that could be to blame. I'd say stop changing coils. It is highly unlikely that they were the root cause of the problem to begin with. The symptoms provided are consistent with a misfiring engine. This usually means that there is an issue with the mixture of air and fuel reaching the engine (more on that in a bit). So ...


3

Check the voltage of the white/blue wire at the alternator connector. It should be at least 12 volts if the alternator charging voltage is greater than 13 volts. If there is no voltage here then the regulator in the alternator is no good. This signal goes first to the PCM then to the multiplex control unit and then to the instrument cluster. Testing it ...


3

On Snap-On flashlights lockout mode is when you hold the on button down for three seconds and turns the flashlight off and it is locked. This is feature is to prevent the light from getting turned on if you have it in a carrier that get's banged around. Your batteries won't get wasted by accidentally turning the light on. It's a nice feature. Other ...


3

Break out the multimeter. Start at the bulbs. Verify the ground is good and then and work your way back towards the fuse box looking for an open as long as the wiring is accessible (Have a friend / brick depress the pedal). Assuming you haven't found the trouble spot, move to the fuse box and go the other way. If you're lucky the problem will be where you ...


3

What about these lights as I discovered in this question CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS Or this one Looks like you just drill a hole for this one


2

I've search for an online procedure, without success. But looking how the lamp is built, it's looks like you have 2 bracket on each side of the lamp. Unless you can access it from behind the bumper (which I doubt), you'll need to remove the bumper. If unsure, maybe take some pictures of your setup and update your original post with them. Here's one image of ...


2

I had the same problem, turned out to be the green / white wire on the right rear cluster. Simple easy fix.


2

Before you order a new relay you should test the old one. It's not hard and the internet is helpful with info https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+test+a+relay By far the most common problem with electronics is bad grounding. First thing to check is the resistance between the black wire and different grounds on the car, looking for high resistance. If you ...


2

Don't drive it like that! Flashing CEL is a "misfire", and can cause damage. Regardless of what happened with the oil, a flashing check engine light (CEL) almost always means there is a problem with a cylinder firing (spark is not igniting the fuel). This also explains the hesitation, and lack of power. This is bad because the unburned fuel can travel ...


2

2 possible causes I can think of. Dimmer switch had been turned all the way down or the dimmer part of the switch is bad. You can still turn on the dome light even when the dimmer part is inoperative. Fuse for instrument Cluster is bad, I think it is Fuse #15 (7.5amp) on that model. Interior fuse panel.


1

This is a bit difficult to diagnose over the internet, but it sounds like you have a coolant circulation problem as well as a pretty bad oil leak. I would take it to GMC or Chevrolet and pay them to diagnose it. It only costs $100.00. A skilled tech can tell you exactly whats wrong with it and how to go about fixing it. If it's a head gasket (Which it sounds ...


1

Is the fixture getting electricity? Have you tested it with a meter? If it is, your problem is possibly just a bad bulb. If it isn't, then you have a wiring issue.. possibly a crimped or cut wiring harness, damaged during the collision. In that case, you're going to want to track it back to where it is severed, and repair it. EDIT And now that I read ...


1

This kind of light bulb has three contact and is keyed to only go in one way. The first contact is the silver portion of the base of the bulb with the knob. This is the ground and it also acts as the key. The knob on the other side is higher up and that only lets the bulb be installed in one orientation. The other two contacts are on the black underside.


1

"Does the light go out after the engine has run for a while? –  mikes" No, I would have to turn the vehicle off then turn it back on again, but If I let the vehicle warm up for a bit then the light doesnt come on at all.


1

With the additional information you have posted, I am in agreement with your initial assessment that a relay or relays are to blame. It sounds like you can get both high and low intensity out of the affected bulb under certain circumstances (high works OK when using the turn signal, and if I understand you correctly, low works OK as a running light when the ...


1

First thing comes to mind is a combustion problem. It may be because of the Head Gasket which is a common issue for Sierra. Has your vehicle's oil recently been changed? And also has the gas cap changed? You should first check the oil cap and gas cap because the sensor gets triggerred by the smoke control which also causes the check engine light to blink. ...


1

I found my problem was green/white wire at rear right was kinked. this is located by bulbs on quarter panel, there's a cluster of wires connected to white female connection. Just wiggle with a little inward force. Hope this helps


1

Turns out it was just the battery. Had it replaced today and dashboard lights were back to normal. Thanks for the help!


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Could be lots of things. Fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, catalytic converter, O2 sensor(s), fuel injectors, fuel filter, even spark plug wires. I'd start by replacing the cheapest things first (distributor, plugs, wires and fuel filter) and see if that helps. Also pull the catalytic converter and see if there's any obvious damage inside. Anything ...


1

It sounds as if any questions have already been answered: The codes stated "misfire". Replace Cat and fuel filter. The flash and loss of power is almost certainly a limp home mode: the engine computer has detected a problem that it considers serious enough that it needs fixing as soon as possible. However, the manufacturer doesn't want to leave you ...


1

I doubt the backlighting is serviceable separately. I would search for rebuild kits, I have found several on eBay with the components and instructions on how to repair it. You can also goggle instrument panel repair service and find other options


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Consider calling the local Nissan parts department, and see if this is even possible. I know some manufacturers don't support changing bulbs inside of the dash, but I could be wrong as far as nissan is concerned. If you do decide to go forth, and find a bulb, ensure to remove the battery cable before pulling the dash. Most cars have buses that run thorugh ...


1

Answer: They say once the car starts the battery is no longer needed but in fact it is! That is what I found after this experience. The battery terminal was loose so on the way battery got disconnected. As a result, the dashboard lights were going on and off during my 1 mile journey. I don't exactly remember how the engine was doing but it was scary. If you ...


1

how about something like this? http://www.amazon.com/LED-License-Plate-Light-Strip/dp/B0013NJX7Y



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