Hot answers tagged

10

If the battery dies whilst driving, but you can jump it off another car, you want to look at the alternator first (possibly followed by the battery, the wiring and any large loads, because either your battery is not charging or something is draining it faster than the alternator can charge it) An alternator should give somewhere over 13 volts (often 14.5) ...


6

You can use this method to pull certain types of dents. Here is one method to resolve the dent issue. Dent Pulling glue these plastic ding tabs to the center of the dent. You can find them by googling "plastic ding tab" You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your dent. Use a dent puller slide hammer. The tip should screw into the plastic ...


5

On my most recent car before my current car, I put in a K&N air filter. I believe I saw a minor improvement in horsepower, but it could also have been the placebo effect. As to your questions: You can save money with a K&N as long as the following are true: You clean/oil the filter at the recommended intervals You don't live in an excessively ...


5

I would bet the electronic speed sensor in the transmission is malfunctioning. It should look something like this: It suggests it is located at the top of the transmission, so should be fairly easy to get to. One plug, one bolt.


4

Your best bet appears to be the firewall pass-through behind the gas pedal. That should allow you to run behind the dash fairly directly.


4

A few rules of thumb that apply to the Kia Soul as well as most other cars. Avoid HID/Xenon headlight retrofit kits unless they're part of an entirely new assembly with optics designed specifically for HID usage. In almost all cases, adding an HID retrofit kit generates a) dangerous glare for oncoming traffic and b) does not properly illuminate the road ...


4

It looks like your car may have drum brakes as an option. If so and if you left the parking brake on while it was parked corrosion may have caused one of the pads to freeze partly in place. Pull the rear brake drums and see if everything is moving as it should.


3

My guess would be that the grayish colored piece slides onto the black baseplate. It appears to be held in place by the three dimples fitting into a detent. I would insert a small screwdriver between the two humps shown in the first photo. With a twisting motion see if the gray plate slides toward the dash. You may have to try several size screwdrivers to ...


3

Sounds like a failing A/C compressor. Assuming the car has A/C... A/C compressor is used with the defroster to dry the air.


3

Or could be a bad ignition switch.


3

That sounds like an immobiliser problem to me. What happens if you get out, lock, then unlock the van, then try again? Another possible problem is a loose wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid, but in that case I'd expect it to need physical intervention before it would work again (i.e. knocking or wiggling the wire to remake contact)


3

One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular ...


2

It sounds to me that a leak in the refrigerant lines is a likely culprit. It gradually getting worse would be the gradual loss of the refrigerant as it leaked out. The hiss you are hearing now I would suspect is pressure created by the compressor being engaged and coming out of the point of the leak. If you just get it refilled, you will probably end up ...


2

In case of erratic no start, try this as we had the same problem. Inside electricals worked, we had horn, headlights, wipers, radio, etc. But starter just clicked as though there was dirty terminal ends or possible dead cell in battery. Jumping with another vehicle did not make any difference. Long story short. Battery was fine and starter bench tested ...


2

The following was suggested by someone else on another website and worked for me!! After being towed several times, now I just pull the relay out and plug it back in. Takes only a minute or two and I have done it about 10 times now. When the vehicle doesn't start, I simply go to the fuse panel under the steering wheel and remove the relay labeled ...


2

There is a strong possibility there is an issue in the interior fuse box which is also the body module. There is a problem often seen with the burglar alarm relay (built into the box/module, not replaceable). This relay doesn't sound the alarm, but disables the car. Locking and unlocking the car making it work seems to confirm it. You can also try to start ...


2

From troublecodes.net: P0116: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected The other two are not listed here. Check your coolant, clear out the codes and see if any show up again. If they do, then it's time to get the car into a mechanic.


2

By tire light, do you mean tire pressure light? If so, I wouldn't worry - you should as a matter of course be checking your tire pressures every week. If you think the tires are deflating much faster than they should, you should look at: have the tires been seated correctly are the rims clean and free from corrosion are the rims bashed or chipped is the ...


2

It may seem unlikely but I've had similar issues on other vehicles caused by corrosion on the battery terminal posts or loose connections. The accessories can still work because they require less amperage and the ignition or starter can't get high enough amperage over a barely connected battery. It could also be a loose connection to the ignition coil ...


2

Another thought is this, the way these rear view mirrors work is it has sensors back and front in the mirror which detects the difference in observed light. When the one behind (facing you) detects it is brighter than the front, it will dim the mirror. Covering both of these will make the mirror "think" there is no difference in observed light and will ...


2

Your Alternator is not charging the battery. This can be verified by checking the voltage across the battery with the vehicle running less than 12.6 volts means you are discharging the battery. Since you've already replaced the alternator (it's possible it's bad) lets start somewhere else. There should be a 120 amp fuse between the alternator and the ...


2

Since I don't know exactly where this piece goes in the front end of your car, I will give you some generalities of why this piece is built as it is and why it probably needed to be changed. The front end of your car has a lot of things going on. Way back when, vehicle front suspensions were setup with a straight axle, somewhat like what rear-ends are setup ...


2

tl;dr: The stabilizer works with the swaybar to reduce body roll in turns. The stabilizer in the picture is missing a nut on the top bolt. The picture in the question clearly illustrates the function of the stabilizer (if you know what it's connected to) and what some of the failure modes might be. Here is a picture of some of the critical components ...


2

The only real differance between your vehicles electrical system with the engine on or off is made by the alternator. Running on battery, your system voltage will be lower then when the engine drives the alternator. With the alternator running, supplying the air fan with a higher voltage, the air fan will run a little faster and is the losing the conditions ...


2

It really depends on the battery, not the car. The car will have a very small drain for the radio presets and fob receiver, but not much. A typical Lead-Acid battery has around a 100 minute reserve capacity. Reserve capacity being how long it takes a 25 amp discharge to lower the voltage to unusable levels. That's roughly 41 Ah. Your 6A will lower it too ...


2

What is passed off as a "warped rotor", and blamed on the user running through a puddle after heating the brakes, is a myth. The shimmy feeling that comes from brakes is usually due to uneven friction material build-up on the rotor. This transfer from pad to rotor is supposed to happen, indeed it makes the brakes work better, which is why brakes function ...


2

It sounds like a blown head gasket ... I'm surprised your mechanic didn't suggest that to you. If there is no sign of visible leakage, it has to be going somewhere. There are only two other places for it to go. Into the crankcase or out the tail pipe getting burnt. You should be able to smell and see it coming out the tail pipe (you may see signs of ...


2

Anything is possible, but small bumps and such shouldn't cause electrical problem like that. All we know now is that your battery is dead or disconnected. Pop the hood, and check to see the battery is still connected (i.e. the connections didn't come loose during a bump) Then you'll want to test it with a multimeter (if you have one), or just put the ...


2

The source of the pffft sound is the AC system's expansion valve. It is normal to hear it when the AC engages/disengages; it doesn't indicate that the expansion valve has an issue per se. However, what is not normal is that the AC is cycling on and off so frequently. 6-7 seconds tells me that something is disengaging the compressor clutch. This could be ...


2

In addition to the suggested insufficient refrigerant or debris, it could also be a pressure safety sensor going bad. That can cause the compressor to cycle on and off even if you have a full charge. Keep that in the back of your mind if it's not the other things.



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