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9

I believe your Elantra has a switch under the hood which detects if it is latched or not. All of the doors, trunk lid/rear hatch, and hood must be closed or the "beep" will not occur. Since you stated the hood was somewhat smashed, it may not be "closing" the switch telling it the hood is down. In other words, your car's security system may be operating ...


7

Seems a horn was damaged. Some cars use the vehicle's horn to "beep" as a response. Others use a separate horn. Pop the hood and look in the front grille area. Use the diagram below to guide you. Do the following: Check the horn connector. Is it fully connected? Is the horn connector broken? Is the horn itself broken? A smashed horn might still work at ...


3

The short answer is you can't. A new key needs to be purchased and programmed at the dealer. There is no simple way around this.


2

The smart key system you are referring to is specifically designed to work at very short distances requiring the key to be inside the car before it would start. When i worked at Mazda on cars with smart keys, the car had 4 antennas just to make the system work seamlessly with the short range in mind. There was an antenna in each front door and the trunk to ...


2

If the key doesn't have a battery you can remove, it might be powered by RFID. Try wrapping it in aluminium foil.


2

I can't speak for your region, but where I am there are several locksmith/key shops able to cut and program the blank key for a fraction of the cost.


2

It says in manuals: Press one of the buttons on the card four times close to the vehicle, The next time the vehicle is started, the message will disappear.


2

Here is more info than you would like http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf The short of it is that it takes 8-10 amps to hold the solenoid in place while starting but the draw can spike to 30 amps while it is engaging. This is assuming that the ignition switch is carrying the current for the solenoid, new cars with push button starts and some ...


2

I found this information on a Toyota forum. It is from Toyota TSB dated November 9, 2007 (TSB#EL009-07). It works with a lot of different Toyota models for 2007-2008 and may work for yours as well. (NOTE: If it doesn't work, let me know and I'll delete this answer). It appears fairly complicated and time critical (time during/between steps needs to be done ...


2

Typically, Kawasaki's have their key code stamped into the ignition switch. Removal of the ignition switch is required in order to view the key code. I believe with Kawasaki's you be required to have a pin in torx (also referred to as tamperless torx) driver in order to remove the ignition switch. EDIT: Where to look: *On original key--if any. *On ...


1

The central locking (open) motor on the driver's door may be faulty or a wire is broken connecting to the motor. The ECU is probably trying to unlock the door when you press the button, but failing. Once you have unlocked the drivers door manually, the ECU is then able to unlock the others. Do you have a button inside the car that can lock and unlock the ...


1

The keycode on my Kawasaki Ninja is on the original keychain... its kindof like a mini-dogtag.


1

The only way to do this is to have the keys programmed to the car. The only way to do that is to take it to the dealership. They have the necessary tools which are proprietary. Only they have them. Yes, it's a racket.


1

It appears your only choice if you want to do it yourself is to purchase the Consult III plus, which will do the job on all Nissan, Infinity, and GTR vehicles. This is not a cheap option, but if you need to do it for several, the cost investment may be overcome very quickly.


1

Omg..a friend thought my car not starting sounded like a security issue with my key fob and recommended that I google my problem. I have a 2006 Volvo S40 and I found others had this same exact problem. I gave the screwdriver method a try and it worked! Crazy but so glad I found this exchange, thank you!


1

Had my s40. 07 2.0d for few months all of a sudden it came up key falure try again and then it came up immobiliser try again put it into volvo and they said the ecu lost memory so had to be updated (common fault ) apparently so got car back seemed fine for about a week then happend again so they told me i had to replace the key fob battery and my engine ...


1

I just experienced the same deal. However, the fix didn't entail any sort of weird mechanical voodoo. I just changed the battery on the key fob. The symptoms were the following: (1) was able to control door locks remotely, (2) the key hole would emit weird clicking sounds, (3) the status on the console read "Key Error". I called my trusted Volvo mechanic ...



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