Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

30

Most of the time when you drive, you're putting a load (and causing wear) on what I'm going to call the "forward" face of each tooth on each gear in your drivetrain. The front of a tooth on the crankshaft pushes against the back of a tooth on the next gear in line, which pushes the next gear, etc. When you use "engine braking", all you are doing is ...


12

If you downshift into a gear at a RPM that is within the norm of driving then no, no harm done. When you downshift what is slowing you down is actually the compression stroke and is recommended over hard braking. Like another said, it is a bit of a mix of the two but engine braking is ok as long as the engine stays under redline, so do not go from 5th to ...


10

Xenon headlights require different electronics to drive them, but they also need different reflectors and also a light leveling system to prevent blinding the drivers of other cars, because the HID lights are so much brighter than traditional lights. If you look closely at a car with HID lights, with the lights shining on something in front of them, you ...


10

Standard digital multimeters can measure current and help you identify what in your vehicle is consuming your battery's juice. Get an electrical diagram of your vehicle and try to narrow it down by doing current measurements in the various major paths of flow. When your car is off, no (or only trace) current should be flowing. Every time the path of ...


9

I'm a driver trainer/examiner and most of the time you rarely need heavy braking in traffic. If you drive calmly, allow plenty of distance between you and the vehicle in front (even at low speed)) and just take your foot of the accelerator early you avoid stopping and starting. If you let the car slow down and use the gear until it is no longer appropriate ...


9

It's not a concern really other than being annoying if in fact the brakes are new. It's not a difficult fix; just putting disk brake quite on the back of the pads should solve the problem. It should have been done when they did the brake job, so I would take it back to the dealer where you bought it and ask them to fix it. At my place it would be done at no ...


9

To answer your question: Tools that check the code normally can also clear them (some handheld ones are cheap). However they only stay cleared until the next warm up cycle that takes the measurement. (Note: emissions testing machines will realize if the code has been cleared and if a good measurement has not yet been taken). However, the bigger problem is ...


8

Which would you rather change - your brake pads or your clutch? By downshifting to decelerate you are trading wear on your brake pads for wear on your clutch (among other things). Brake pads are much cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. Personally, having done both, I'd rather do 50 brake jobs before I'd do one clutch job.


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


6

Donovan's is the only answer that has any truth in it. Downshifting and engine braking will have NO effect on the clutch, as you don't slip the clutch it doesn't wear out the engine, as you use the compression stroke and it is far better on tyres and handling as any advanced driving instructor would tell you. It is just more difficult, as you need to ...


6

Find your fuse box diagram. With everything off, pull fuses out one by one and use a multimeter on the fuse socket to measure the current drawn through that circuit. That will give you some indication as to what is causing the power drain.


5

If the battery is so dead that immediately after stopping it can't start again, then it is not charging. You say that the alternator is fine, but have you checked the charging circuits? Check for a static parasitic draw (see my answer to this question, or various others here on similar subjects). Check the current being produced by the alternator, and the ...


5

Its fairly common for these to burn out sockets for the bulbs, and even often on both sides at the same time. The socket can be removed asa separate piece, and it is fairly likely melted and/or burned


4

In addition to an unexpected electrical load, as covered by Captain Claptrap, there are other things to check. The two biggest killers of lead/acid batteries are overcharging and vibration. Unless you have the equipment and the skills to use it properly (in which case you probably wouldn't be asking) I suggest you get the charging system checked by an ...


4

It is likely that something has been pushed out of alignment during the repair - you need to inspect for things in that line of thought - look for places where parts have been rebolted/tightened and they are not exactly as they were or something that has been twisted etc. I make the assumption you are speaking of the latch mechanicals - which are often ...


4

This blog is a nice reference: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html It explains how to check: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

If the tail lights were hot during the swap you may have broken the filiments. Bumping a bulb that is on or been on recently can cause the filiments to fail. Remove the bulbs hold them up to a light and see if the filimant is intact.


4

When the steering wheel is at the end of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise At max travel, the steering pump will produce its maximum pressure and will have to work the hardest. This will create a "hissing" type noise. When the fluid level is low, then you will hear the pump moaning ...


4

Depends a wee bit on whether it is a cable throttle linkage or fly-by-wire. It being a Jeep, I'm assuming cable here. First thing I would check when looking at throttle response is that the throttle cable has no slack in it. If it is slack, the first pedal movement will just take up that slack. As @BobCross commented, this will also lead to your top ...


4

Sounds to me like you are not making connection to the battery (maybe this is what you mean by "dead short"?). I would look at your contact points ... both sides of the battery, ground, and starter to ensure you are making good contact. If you have side posts (assuming you do), these have a tendency of not making complete contact even when tightened. Make ...


3

If you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) check the voltage of the battery when this is happening. I suspect that the alternator is not charging. The voltage with the engine running should be (roughly) between 13 - 14 volts, anything less than 12.6 means the alternator is not charging.


3

It could also be that the dealer didn't apply brake grease. Brake Grease does NOT go between the pads and the rotors (where the friction occurs that makes the brakes work), but between the pads and the brake cylinder inside the caliper. It also goes on the little metal clips that are on the side of the brake pads. Often, squeaking in brakes is caused by ...


3

if the shake becomes worse when you apply the brake, then I'd agree with the garage. The rotors are wearable items and as they get older, they often develop a warp (or to be more precise according to some schools of thoughts, uneven build up of brake pad material). How many miles are on those rotors? Also depends on your driving patterns, my rotors ...


3

The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See: http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.


3

The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always ...


3

The 4.0L is generally a very robust engine so I think the problem is with the ancillaries. Here's what I would look at: Fuel pressure. If the car feels like you're running out of gas, it might be that the fuel pump isn't supplying enough fuel or there's another problem with the fuel system like a leaking injector. Has the fuel mileage been suffering ...


3

A lot depends on the insurance company and where you live. I have had it go both ways. In one case they offered a check, but wanted the vehicle. In another case they paid me and were happy I didn't make them tow it away. Be aware that laws vary from state to state and it may be a hassle to reregister the vehicle as it will have a salvage title. This may ...


3

So you need to find out where on your drive train. Get your Jeep up off the ground so you can drive the wheels, and have a listen. Likely places: Differential Universal joints on axles Tire rubbing on bodywork Brake pad rubbing against disc


3

It doesn't sound like a fuel line problem ( though there's a small small chance it's a fuel pump ), it sounds like your engine isn't getting enough air on one end or the other. It might be a dirty air filter, or it might be a clogged cat or bad O2 sensor. Sometimes it's easy to tell if the cat is clogged, it will get extra hot and turn red and that's your ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible