Hot answers tagged

51

Most of the time when you drive, you're putting a load (and causing wear) on what I'm going to call the "forward" face of each tooth on each gear in your drivetrain. The front of a tooth on the crankshaft pushes against the back of a tooth on the next gear in line, which pushes the next gear, etc. When you use "engine braking", all you are doing is ...


20

Most of the time you won't need heavy braking in traffic. You can avoid stopping and starting by: Driving more calmly Leaving plenty of distance between you and the vehicle in front (even at low speed) Simply taking your foot of the accelerator early If you let the car slow down, and use the gear until it is no longer appropriate (too slow that the ...


16

Standard digital multimeters can measure current and help you identify what in your vehicle is consuming your battery's juice. Get an electrical diagram of your vehicle and try to narrow it down by doing current measurements in the various major paths of flow. When your car is off, no (or only trace) current should be flowing. Every time the path of ...


15

If you downshift into a gear at a RPM that is within the norm of driving then no, no harm done. When you downshift what is slowing you down is actually the compression stroke and is recommended over hard braking. Like another said, it is a bit of a mix of the two but engine braking is ok as long as the engine stays under redline, so do not go from 5th to ...


13

Find your fuse box diagram. With everything off, pull fuses out one by one and use a multimeter on the fuse socket to measure the current drawn through that circuit. That will give you some indication as to what is causing the power drain.


12

To answer your question: Tools that check the code normally can also clear them (some handheld ones are cheap). However they only stay cleared until the next warm up cycle that takes the measurement. (Note: emissions testing machines will realize if the code has been cleared and if a good measurement has not yet been taken). However, the bigger problem is ...


11

Which would you rather change - your brake pads or your clutch? By downshifting to decelerate you are trading wear on your brake pads for wear on your clutch (among other things). Brake pads are much cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. Personally, having done both, I'd rather do 50 brake jobs before I'd do one clutch job.


11

Xenon headlights require different electronics to drive them, but they also need different reflectors and also a light leveling system to prevent blinding the drivers of other cars, because the HID lights are so much brighter than traditional lights. If you look closely at a car with HID lights, with the lights shining on something in front of them, you ...


10

It's not a concern really other than being annoying if in fact the brakes are new. It's not a difficult fix; just putting disk brake quite on the back of the pads should solve the problem. It should have been done when they did the brake job, so I would take it back to the dealer where you bought it and ask them to fix it. At my place it would be done at no ...


9

Donovan's is the only answer that has any truth in it. Downshifting and engine braking will have NO effect on the clutch, as you don't slip the clutch it doesn't wear out the engine, as you use the compression stroke and it is far better on tyres and handling as any advanced driving instructor would tell you. It is just more difficult, as you need to ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


6

CAN-C is the high speed bus that connects the engine, brakes, airbags etc. CAN-IHS is a low speed bus that connects the comfort systems like radio and climate controls.


5

First, everyone who said that the braking effect comes from the compression stroke is wrong...the air in the cylinder is compressed which takes energy, yet after top dead center acts as a spring and helps force the piston back down, returning the exact same force as was put into it in the first place. Probably more, actually, since the compression heats the ...


5

Claptrap is on the money with grease points, but many modern cars don't have them, and I can't speak to how the Wrangler is setup. That is the perfect starting point, though. The next step would be to spray down all the rubber mounting points (suspension bushings, shock mounts, etc) with white lithium grease to see if that quiets it down at all. I fear ...


5

If the battery is so dead that immediately after stopping it can't start again, then it is not charging. You say that the alternator is fine, but have you checked the charging circuits? Check for a static parasitic draw (see my answer to this question, or various others here on similar subjects). Check the current being produced by the alternator, and the ...


5

Its fairly common for these to burn out sockets for the bulbs, and even often on both sides at the same time. The socket can be removed asa separate piece, and it is fairly likely melted and/or burned


5

Rear solid axles on trucks especially with leaf springs are not adjustable. To cause enough misalignment for one wheel to rub something must be damaged. I would start by looking at the center bolt of the leaf springs. The bolt ties all the leafs together in the center and is used as an alignment pin with the pad on the rear axle. Everything is held together ...


5

You need either a digital storage oscilloscope or a noid light to test signal from the PCM to the injectors. If you don't have a DSO you will also need a multi-meter. You want to disconnect an injector, check the connector for fit and check the pins for corrosion etc... Injectors have 2 wires. Shared power and PCM ground. Power will always be the same ...


5

Looking at the routing it may work with a shorter belt. But it may not have enough tension to drive the water pump without slipping. Dorman may make an A/C delete pulley/bracket. Which would keep the original belt routing and length.


5

The height from the ground to the bottom of the ball will be determined by the trailer you're pulling, not the car. The height of the trailer is such that the trailers hitch is horizontal with the ground, while the hitch receiver on all vehicles is attached to two points on the frame of the car, so the receiver height is fixed for the car - e.g my Subaru ...


4

This blog is a nice reference: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html It explains how to check: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes ...


4

Same problem but another forum suggested that the key in their 98 GC can be removed one click past the off position in the ACC on position. Sure enough, checked mine and found the batt drain was due to the key switch being left in ACC and then being removed. Key shouldn't come out there but it does. I screwed a small metal bracket to stop the key switch ...


4

I know this is an old forum, but i need to comment. i have a 1998 jeep grand cherokee laredo that i bought for my daughter to use. the battery was brand new when i got the jeep, but soon after purchasing it i would find if it sat a few days without driving it the battery would be completely dead. i searched online, asked my mechanic friends and didnt hear of ...


4

In addition to an unexpected electrical load, as covered by Captain Claptrap, there are other things to check. The two biggest killers of lead/acid batteries are overcharging and vibration. Unless you have the equipment and the skills to use it properly (in which case you probably wouldn't be asking) I suggest you get the charging system checked by an ...


4

It is likely that something has been pushed out of alignment during the repair - you need to inspect for things in that line of thought - look for places where parts have been rebolted/tightened and they are not exactly as they were or something that has been twisted etc. I make the assumption you are speaking of the latch mechanicals - which are often ...


4

It could also be that the dealer didn't apply brake grease. Brake Grease does NOT go between the pads and the rotors (where the friction occurs that makes the brakes work), but between the pads and the brake cylinder inside the caliper. It also goes on the little metal clips that are on the side of the brake pads. Often, squeaking in brakes is caused by ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

If the tail lights were hot during the swap you may have broken the filiments. Bumping a bulb that is on or been on recently can cause the filiments to fail. Remove the bulbs hold them up to a light and see if the filimant is intact.


4

When the steering wheel is at the end of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise At max travel, the steering pump will produce its maximum pressure and will have to work the hardest. This will create a "hissing" type noise. When the fluid level is low, then you will hear the pump moaning ...


4

Depends a wee bit on whether it is a cable throttle linkage or fly-by-wire. It being a Jeep, I'm assuming cable here. First thing I would check when looking at throttle response is that the throttle cable has no slack in it. If it is slack, the first pedal movement will just take up that slack. As @BobCross commented, this will also lead to your top ...



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