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4

If "injector cleaning" products helped but only lasted for one tank, I would try spraying Seafoam directly in at the throttle plate rather than putting an additive in your fuel. This should be a lot more effective at cleaning the injectors. If that doesn't help, my best guess would be that the vibration is from unequal power from one or more of the ...


3

Here are the instructions I found from this document. It looks as though you have to program the pump and injectors into the PCU using some type interfacing tool. I would bet this is probably only available through the dealer, though I could be wrong. Check with a local shop, but would bet this is not something you can do at home. The document has several ...


3

Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve and the Intake Manifold must be removed and cleaned. The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral In gear there is a much greater load on the engine. Power is being transfered to the transmission and then to the wheels. This is going to cause the idle to drop a bit and this is where you'd feel the most ...


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The quick answer is - Yes, you will need a tune after installing larger injectors in your stroked 454. I was considering a big block swap into my RV so I've done a bit of research about tuning solutions. I was primarily focused on swapping in the L21, so I can't speak 100% to the differences between the Mark IV and Gen VI motors. This is what I do ...


3

I'm sure there are a plethora of custom programmers for the suburban platform. However if you're making such extensive modifications, you can probably look at some standalone solutions, like an Accel DFI or Haltech setup. Tuners typically dial in a baseline map and strap your vehicle to a dyno where they adjust fuel/timing curves according to wideband O2 ...


2

The Megasquirt 3 is the way to go giving you total control of your new setup. The EFI Analytics software, Tuner Studio and Mega Log Viewer make tuning easy but has a feature set that is up to par with pro tuning setups. The VE Analyzer Live will also help dial in various areas of your tune as will the Mega Log Viewer Scatter Plots. I would bet your new ...


2

One option you may want to consider is switching to a MegaSquirt fuel injection computer. It would be the pain of a fuel injection computer replacement, but they seem to be rather adjustable and configurable, if you are willing to go through the effort. We have had a couple of presentations at a local computer club from a guy who converted his 60s era ...


2

You replaced the engine mounts? I would guess that since you had to change the engine mounts that there is a good chance that the tranny mounts may need to be changed as well...what is the drivetrain assembly like in that car since it is fwd, sometimes if the driveshaft in a rwd car is unbalanced it will cause the car to shake


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Great question. I am making an educated guess here, so don't quote me in court;) Because piggyback chips interfere with your car's various inputs I would assume that you are correct and that your MPG score will be inaccurate as a result. I can't say by how much though. These chips usually give an MPG boost of around 10%, so I would imagine your true MPG ...


2

Both engines you mentioned have a supercharger and turbo combination. The performance difference is achieved by increasing the boost pressure to the engine. While this might be done only by using different ECU maps for small performance differences, the big performance differences usually require higher capacity parts as well, especially for the turbos, ...


2

On a four cycle (four stroke) engine with sequential port fuel injection, the fuel injectors fire at 1/2 the rate of the RPM (ie: 3000 rpm engine speed equates to 1500 injector pulses per minute), which just happens to be the same speed at which the spark plug for a single cylinder fires. Four factors allow the injector to operate at this speed. The first ...


2

Are you able to ask the previous owner for any history that could point you in the direction of the fault? This needs going back to basics. Check that you actually have petrol in the tank, could be anything in there, check for water or diesel or any other contamination. Don't go by the fuel gauge for tank level, it might be mis-reading. Take out the plugs, ...


1

Here is an image with the different types of injectors. It looks as though the brown top injectors you are talking about are 36 lb injectors, meaning they can flow 36 lbs of fuel per hour at the stock fuel pressure. I don't know what the fuel pressure these were rated at for 36#'s, but if you have lower or higher fuel pressure in your vehicle, this will ...


1

With the car off, go under the hood and look near your air filter housing. Follow the large hose that it is connected to until you see the throttle body. Try manually moving the throttle lever. This is what your gas peddle would do anyways. Also try using two people, one to be in the car pressing the gas peddle, and one to see it the lever rotates at all. ...


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As Brian Knoblauch stated, fuel injection systems normally shut off the fuel delivery completely when the engine is in an "overrun" state, i.e. when you get off the accelerator completely with the vehicle in gear and the RPMs sufficiently high. In this sense, you can't be too lean in overrun--it's perfectly acceptable to have no injection at all. As for ...


1

Throttle never reads 0% as the throttle plate angle is around 25~30 degree's. RPM should not 'hang' on a fuel injected bike, you may have leaking injectors or fuel pump regulator may not be working properly? Your much more likely to get after-fire in exhaust system on over run. What year is the 600? I know early ones had some issues but all the newer ...


1

With your added information, this sounds like there is a definite problem with the transmission. Your description leads me to believe it probably has something to do with the clutches being worn out in conjunction with low line pressures (or some such). I would definitely believe the transmission is due for an overhaul. If you pull the dipstick, does the ...


1

Your clutch slips probably, soon or later you won´t be able to accelerate anymore, just to be sure I understood it like that, you step on gas pedal, rpm´s get high, no acceleration, then when you step out a bit it catches and car starts to accelerate again, right?


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2 options : the pump that pressures the gasoil into the circuit (this pump is just inside one of the rear passenger seats, just over the oil tank) is dead an electrical relay that activates that pump is dead. Normally, you here a little sound that lasts for 1 or 2 seconds when you turn on your car (lights on, but engine off). Like the sound of a little ...


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Based on your information, it appears your transmission is on it's way out. If your mounts were bad and the car was driven for a lengthy period of time, you were putting more stress on the tranny than usual. Being a FWD car with the tranny on the side, Horizontally opposed to the engine, it's verifiable when you say the car "shifts" when turning it off. This ...


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I had a Ford Probe with a 2.2L Mazda engine with nearly the same issue. I did everything you said, multiple spark plug changes, fuel cleaners, sea foam, etc. etc. The problem was the spark plug wires. They looked perfectly fine, but when I replaced them as a last resort the whole issue cleared right up. I later noted a small crack in one where the wire was ...


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If I recall right, those vehicles have a lot of vacuum hoses. Vacuum is only really utilized during idle, hence the disappearance of your problem. The sputtering is likely related to a dying vehicle, and as you accelerate it is able to keep running. Open your hood, and start looking at all the rubber hoses; compress them with your hand slightly and you can ...



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