Hot answers tagged ignition
7
Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance. Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc. If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time.
On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best. I've tried other brands ...
4
I know my vehicle is equipped with a battery load monitor. When the computer (I assume the body control module) senses a load above some factory set value for more than 10 minutes with the engine off, it disables the power circuit. To reset it requires cycling the ignition switch. Turn the key to start nothing happens, turning the key a second type returns ...
4
The main noise you hear is the starter motor. This is a high torque motor whose purpose is to turn the engine at a rate sufficient to allow it to run.
If you run a starter motor with no load it is still quite noisy, but as you will hear when starting your car, it tries to get the engine up to speed, fuel is pumped in, the spark plugs fire, and if all is ...
3
A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, & Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece:
To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spark a little starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, ...
3
IF you have an E39 with an M54 engine, it is as easy as:
Unplugging Battery
Unplug cable, and possibly unscrew rail
Unscrew each coil pack, and replace
Reconnect all items, and test drive
Not a very hard job, as all the packs are exposed once you remove the cover.
3
Shift out of and back into park a few times, and try to wiggle the shifter around park while you try to turn the key out. This would be the 'usual' reason the key would be stuck in.
Next, try moving the steering wheel slightly, while again trying to back out the key.
If that's not it, is there a button you need to press to release the key? If so, push it ...
2
Oiled-up plugs usually don't burn out ignition coils, so I'd rule that out unless the plugs get really badly carboned up. Just keep an eye on them.
1l/1000 miles isn't great for oil consumption, but it's not that bad either (although I wouldn't be too happy either given the low mileage of the engine) - have a look at the owners manual as to what the specs ...
2
Might be the CEM, if it has anything to do with the instrument cluster. Might just be the wiring, as was the case here. Though not being able to flash your powertrain controller due to the key position seems to point to the ignition cylinder or some of the wiring to it.
If you really do have a CEM fault, you can see if you can find a wholesale source ...
2
Answer care of cgsheen at Desert Datsuns
1st: If you haven't downloaded the Factory Service Manual from
xenons30.com, please do it.
Start here (if you haven't already):
- Check ALL your rubber. By that I mean all the intake boots & connections, all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Make sure nothing
is disconnected, cracked, or broken.
...
2
From the data you have given it could be connected with you topping up the fluids incorrectly, but to be honest it could be anything- you could have even knocked a wire while you were working on the engine.
If you did put the wrong oil in the wrong place I would suggest based on your question that you take it to your local garage as if you haven't drained ...
1
If it ain't broke don't fix it. If your wires already check out and you don't have misfires it is probably not worth replacing them just yet.
You could possibly get better performance out of better coils and plugs but even those numbers are pretty minimal. Best thing I can recommend for fuel economy is to use seafoam in the engine and fuel and then change ...
1
On some cars the fan for the heat, defrost, a/c does not have an "off" setting. The fan runs on low speed whenever the car is on. It is possible that the ignition switch is worn allowing the key to be removed with a set of contacts still partially engaged. If you turn the key to the "on" position turn the blower motor on high. Find a spot under the dash ...
1
I would venture to guess that it's a overprotective starter lockout circuit. Get something else to plug into the outlet (map light, different changer, inverter, fan...) and see what happens. If it works with a different device plugged in then it's your charger. I don't know why it would behave that way but it's worth a shot.
1
Misfires can also be caused by fuel delivery problems. Such as a fuel injector with debris in it, or one that's sticking. Not all configurations of fuel injection will result in a misfire in just one cylinder though. Depends if your injectors are cylinder specific or batch fire into a common manifold.
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