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Honda Coil Over Plug setups have three wires. As mentioned they have an internal Ignition Control Module. Pins 1 & 2 are power and ground while pin 3 is the control signal from the Electronic Control Module. You can test coil resistance with a multimeter. How to Test an Ignition Coil with a Multimeter You can also check the primary coil with a digital ...


5

Yes, there is an interlock between the ignition and the shifter, as well as an interlock between the shifter and the brake pedal. Something could have gotten messed up somewhere. There is a procedure to move the shifter, if stepping on the brake and the key system don't allow it. Check your owners guide. Generally there is a small removable plastic cover ...


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This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is ...


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The two could be related. In the US, the key can't be removed from the ignition unless the car is in Park as a safety requirement and most cars won't let you take it out of park until the key is inserted and turned. This is normally accomplished with a few switches and actuators in the ignition cylinder and the shift mechanism. This could be as simple as ...


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As it's a security-specific component on a relatively new high-end car, I suspect you won't be able to use a second-hand part - You will probably have to get a new one from Mercedes. Even if you could use a second-hand one, you'll almost certainly have to take it to Mercedes to get them to reprogram it to your car.


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The data doesn't support it You measured your coil resistances to be within spec You measured your wire resistances to be within spec You've already replaced the plugs with ones that require less voltage to operate So while the bad-coil theory may explain what's going on, I'm not confident it will. Possible explanations for the readings obtained Off ...


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If you are looking for a method by which you can diagnose the problem to confirm your suspicions that one of your keys has failed I can suggest the following. In close proximity to the ignition barrel, literally around the outer radius, is an RFID reader. When you place the key in the ignition, this energies and attempts to rear the transponder code from ...


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The average gas engine exhausts between 1 and 1.5 CO during normal combustion at stoiciometric mixture (lambda 1.00). The catalysts is expected to burn this excess CO. So if there is .6% at the tailpipe then the most likely cause is a catalyst that is either not lit or the mixture is out of the catalysts working mixture range. The farther the mixture gets ...


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The only place where I'd expect such a wire is the one between the ignition lock and the starter relay (i.e. the one that tells the starter to crank). Do they expect you to splice your starter button into this lead?


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Goto the dealership If you goto the dealership for the manufacturer of your car you can bring some things with you to get a key, possibly. Drivers license, passport VIN Number of your vehicle Title of the car - with your name on it. The dealership can cut you key. IF your key needs to be programmed into your cars system you will need to get an ...


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The picture in your comment suggests the following course of action: The bolted type of battery terminal shown can cause this symptom and still look OK. Test it with a voltmeter. Put one probe on the lead of the battery and the other on the copper of the cable and then read the meter while trying to crank the engine. Do this for both connections. If the ...


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Starter Solenoid If you can turn the starter over when your skip the solenoid then I the logical next step would be to replace your solenoid. It's a very simple procedure and the solenoid is a relatively inexpensive component I suggest you swap out your solenoid and see if that resolves your issue.



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