Hot answers tagged

17

This comes directly from this web site: http://www.obdii.com/articles/Onboard_Diagnostics_Demystified.html What it says, is that early OBDII systems could not detect misfires, but since then a few variations on the theme have been implemented. The basic idea is that if a cylinder fires, it gives a kick to the crankshaft causing a slight variation in crank ...


14

Ants are unlikely to be the source of your issue. Your battery is filled with sulfuric acid, and that is sufficiently strong enough to completely dissolve any ants that made their way into your battery. Above that, your battery should be completely sealed. Also, even if the ants did manage to get into your engine: metal > ant. This issue is more than likely ...


10

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


10

I'm sorry if this ends up being a lengthy answer. The answer to this question is more historical than anything else but first a little background. In a waste spark system an ignition coil has two spark plug outputs unlike every other system only having one. Each ignition coil is hooked up to two spark plugs. These spark plugs reside in two opposing ...


10

You have a qualitative description of what happens, but let's break it down to a smaller scale. When we talk about "temperature" of something, we are really talking about how fast the molecules are moving around and bouncing off each other. "Temperature" is really "kinetic energy". And it turns out that there are other types of energy besides moving around ...


9

From personal experience, I'd replaced ALOT of these working at the dealership. It wasn't just the accords either, it was quite a few Honda and Acuras that used the same design and power delivery system. The most common issues I saw out of probably close to 100+ failures of these was: Ground strap on the starter becoming corroded. Bad ground to engine ...


8

Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance. Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc. If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time. On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best. I've tried other brands ...


8

The most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engine's power is not being transmitted to the transmission. The cost of a clutch replacement is too varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much ...


8

First, think of the possible failure modes: Spark plug is clogged with carbon or has an isolation error - it conducts current, but doesn't generate sparks, because the current flows through the carbon from electrode to electrode. Break inside the plug, e.g. broken / worn electrodes - plug doesn't conduct (and of course doesn't generate sparks) Cable has a ...


8

Engine misfire can also be detected by looking at the coil voltage just after the plug is fired .When the fuel/air mixture actually ignites there are lots of ions and radicals floating around .This provides an easier path for electricity from the coil.If the mixture does not ignite for any reason the resistance is extremely high .A observant auto tech ...


7

Check the other end of the wires to make sure you did not loosen them. Your wires could be going bad and moving them around made the problem worse. Would not hurt to replace them as well. Also it could just be a coincident with the spark plugs, it could be a fuel issue or a problem with your distributor. Although, this is less likely than the first two ...


7

This is usually the symptom of a dead battery. Has the car been sitting for a long time without being driven? Or did you leave the headlights or interior lights on? Try jump starting it (see owner's manual for instructions) and drive it for a while to charge the battery. (I usually find that 30 minutes or so of driving is sufficient; make sure not to switch ...


7

In the dawn of fuel injection most cars used a simultaneous double fire system. During every crank shaft revolution the injectors spray half the fuel needed. This way half the fuel waits on top of the intake valve. When the intake valve opens the first half is dumped in and the injector sprays in the other half the fuel. Similar thing happens with the ...


7

Repeated clicking is a result of not enough power making it to the starter. Your battery either has a bad connection, or is too weak to turn the starter motor. Battery Connection Your problem may be entirely due to a bad connection. Starters draw a lot of amps, and batteries are weaker in cold temperatures. I'd start by fully exposing the terminals. You ...


7

It sounds like your shifter may not be seating into park correctly. You may want to try moving it back and forth from gear into park (occasionally, with a slight amount of force; you don't want to break anything). Verify that the key is not in the accessory position, and each time you switch to park, try to remove the key. I've also seen the key release ...


7

If the picture you have attached is similar to the starter on you car, then the power to the starter motor is only delivered if the solenoid operates, so the solenoid must be working. However, the shift lever labelled in the picture, that pushes the pinion forward to engage with the flywheel may be broken, that would explain your problem. Your problem ...


7

If you are hearing the starter turn (typical starter whir), the most probable problem would be the one way clutch has gone out. It's the part of the starter with the teeth on it which engages the starter ring gear. If the solenoid has gone out, the starter motor will not spin, because the solenoid is the part which forces a large copper washer into the posts ...


7

Yes you should ground the spark plug. In your case the spark plug was close enough to the block to still jump the gap. If the plug was far enough away from metal nothing would have happened. On a separate note. When testing for spark it is recommended to use a spark tester. Using a spark plug is a poor test of the ignition system. In free air the spark ...


7

Voltage drop problems are very common in multi component, multi interface systems. For instance the starter motor has a cable that runs from the battery to the starter. The cable has ring terminals on the ends and those terminals are bolted to the appropriate component. High resistance at any of the aforementioned connection points is a recipe for voltage ...


6

Nothing. It could work exactly the same as a keyed ignition, in which case your starter motor would engage, but manufacturers (and I think this is true for all) have added a simple piece of logic which only engages the starter if the engine is not already running. This would be the ideal solution for keyed ignition as well, but it has only been in ...


6

You need Spark, Fuel, and Compression for an engine to run. Since this engine was just reassembled, there is a lot to question. Spark - rotor position - beware of caps where the points are not "straight through" plug wires in the correct position timing - may need play with it a bit coil - ensure it is firing spark plug firing - use a jumper to connect ...


6

Two things about this bike if it is OEM It has two sets of coils. It has two sets of points. If you take the right side cover off the motor where the crank is, you can see if the points have been swapped out with signal generators, a common mod for this bike. One coil fires for cylinder 1 and 4, the other fires for cylinder 2 and 3. IMO you have a bad ...


6

This could be caused by multiple things, the most likely case would be a bad battery in need of replacement. However before coming to that conclusion there are a few things which can be checked. Make sure your battery terminals are in good working order and are not grounding out any where make sure they are insulated and not cracked and touching metal. ...


6

Funny you should ask this Max :) First lets make sure of our definition. Running an engine lean means changing the air / fuel ratio to have more air than is ideal (14.7:1 air to fuel). In my reading there are two effects. First, the fuel is an atomized liquid which has a cooling effect on the combustion chamber. So less fuel, less cooling effect. Second, ...


5

A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, & Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece: To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spray a little starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, ...


5

Honda Coil Over Plug setups have three wires. As mentioned they have an internal Ignition Control Module. Pins 1 & 2 are power and ground while pin 3 is the control signal from the Electronic Control Module. You can test coil resistance with a multimeter. How to Test an Ignition Coil with a Multimeter You can also check the primary coil with a digital ...


5

Background So there is a grounding switch on your clutch lever, hence the need to pull in the clutch to start the motorcycle. Troubleshooting You can disconnect that switch and get a piece of wire and complete the circuit at the connector. Once that's done, make sure you're in neutral and then try to start the bike. The switch is labeled 10 in the ...


5

A Good Ground All the coils on that bike want are a good ground. If you can find a good spot on the frame to mount them that isn't in the way you are good. Feel free to weld a couple of tabs onto a random convenient spot anywhere on the good iron from that you can. Best of luck.


5

Referring to this website: If all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will see about three to five degrees of "reverse motion" before the distributor begins to turn. To measure this, do the following: Get a socket which fits the front balancer crank shaft bolt. Get a breaker bar which is long enough to turn the crank using it. ...


5

Pin 16 on the ODB-II connector is specified as "Battery Power" or "Battery Positive". There will always be 12v power between pin 4 and 16. Note that pin 5 has "ground" in the description, but that is just for the communication signalling and not for power. The connector will always have power on these two pins regardless of the key position, and when ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible