Hot answers tagged ignition
7
Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance. Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc. If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time.
On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best. I've tried other brands ...
6
Check the other end of the wires to make sure you did not loosen them.
Your wires could be going bad and moving them around made the problem worse. Would not hurt to replace them as well.
Also it could just be a coincident with the spark plugs, it could be a fuel issue or a problem with your distributor. Although, this is less likely than the first two ...
4
Whenever you have a cranks won't run condition the first step is to see what's missing, fuel or fire.
First pull a spark plug wire off, stick a thin screwdriver in the end of the wire where the spark plug goes. Hold the side of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from a metal part of the engine, while holding onto the handle (insulating yourself from the ...
4
I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages.
According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...
4
That is probably knocking, or premature detonation. It's a little hard on the motor. It's likely that you should be in a lower gear or ease off the throttle whenever you hear it. It is probably normal for that car. Higher octane gas might help, but it's not good for the car to drive in too high a gear.
4
The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees ...
4
I know my vehicle is equipped with a battery load monitor. When the computer (I assume the body control module) senses a load above some factory set value for more than 10 minutes with the engine off, it disables the power circuit. To reset it requires cycling the ignition switch. Turn the key to start nothing happens, turning the key a second type returns ...
4
The main noise you hear is the starter motor. This is a high torque motor whose purpose is to turn the engine at a rate sufficient to allow it to run.
If you run a starter motor with no load it is still quite noisy, but as you will hear when starting your car, it tries to get the engine up to speed, fuel is pumped in, the spark plugs fire, and if all is ...
3
A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, & Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece:
To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spark a little starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, ...
3
IF you have an E39 with an M54 engine, it is as easy as:
Unplugging Battery
Unplug cable, and possibly unscrew rail
Unscrew each coil pack, and replace
Reconnect all items, and test drive
Not a very hard job, as all the packs are exposed once you remove the cover.
3
Shift out of and back into park a few times, and try to wiggle the shifter around park while you try to turn the key out. This would be the 'usual' reason the key would be stuck in.
Next, try moving the steering wheel slightly, while again trying to back out the key.
If that's not it, is there a button you need to press to release the key? If so, push it ...
3
I dont think you have much to worry about honestly.
I'd be more worried about the plastic link between the metal key and the plastic key fob breaking. (I have a TDi as well - a 2001.) My keys are heavy and have a lot of stuff, and i've never had an issue with it.
Is it possible? Sure.
Is it likely? No.
3
The keys don't necessarily need a rubber head to be 'smart keys', some embed a small resistor inside of them that isn't very noticeable. The fact that the cylinder turns at all means the grooves aren't too worn, etc. It either matches the lock wafers or it doesn't.
I would look online for a programming method for new keys. It's likely that the battery went ...
3
First, I think you're changing gear way to early if you're changing up from 3rd to 4th at 2000rpm, especially when the engine is under load. There's a reason the redline is higher than that :). You're not really doing yourself a favour with that, and neither are you doing the engine a favour.
Knock or pinging is usually caused by the fuel burning ...
2
If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip. The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of ...
2
I don't know why he would beat on your car, as the problem will likely just return. The problem likely lies in one of these places: The tag in the key itself (RFID) read by the computers, the ring that provides the field required to read the tag, or the computer that recognizes the tag. Beating it fixes nothing.
2
If the bike has a carburetor, try cleaning the idle jet (well, just spray the whole intake throat with carburetor cleaner, it's in there somewhere). If it's injected, then run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it.
You might also have a problem with a dirty air filter, but if the bike was just serviced I assume they would have checked that.
You could ...
2
I suspect the bang was, as you suggest, unburnt fuel going up.
I take it you now have a good spark, if it has been running well since changing the coil?
As Mauro's comment says, what do the plugs look like? Are they clean, or do they show signs of overfuelling?
Does it turn over at normal speed on the starter, or does it spin a lot faster, slower or ...
2
Might be the CEM, if it has anything to do with the instrument cluster. Might just be the wiring, as was the case here. Though not being able to flash your powertrain controller due to the key position seems to point to the ignition cylinder or some of the wiring to it.
If you really do have a CEM fault, you can see if you can find a wholesale source ...
2
Oiled-up plugs usually don't burn out ignition coils, so I'd rule that out unless the plugs get really badly carboned up. Just keep an eye on them.
1l/1000 miles isn't great for oil consumption, but it's not that bad either (although I wouldn't be too happy either given the low mileage of the engine) - have a look at the owners manual as to what the specs ...
2
Answer care of cgsheen at Desert Datsuns
1st: If you haven't downloaded the Factory Service Manual from
xenons30.com, please do it.
Start here (if you haven't already):
- Check ALL your rubber. By that I mean all the intake boots & connections, all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Make sure nothing
is disconnected, cracked, or broken.
...
2
From the data you have given it could be connected with you topping up the fluids incorrectly, but to be honest it could be anything- you could have even knocked a wire while you were working on the engine.
If you did put the wrong oil in the wrong place I would suggest based on your question that you take it to your local garage as if you haven't drained ...
1
If it ain't broke don't fix it. If your wires already check out and you don't have misfires it is probably not worth replacing them just yet.
You could possibly get better performance out of better coils and plugs but even those numbers are pretty minimal. Best thing I can recommend for fuel economy is to use seafoam in the engine and fuel and then change ...
1
On some cars the fan for the heat, defrost, a/c does not have an "off" setting. The fan runs on low speed whenever the car is on. It is possible that the ignition switch is worn allowing the key to be removed with a set of contacts still partially engaged. If you turn the key to the "on" position turn the blower motor on high. Find a spot under the dash ...
1
I would venture to guess that it's a overprotective starter lockout circuit. Get something else to plug into the outlet (map light, different changer, inverter, fan...) and see what happens. If it works with a different device plugged in then it's your charger. I don't know why it would behave that way but it's worth a shot.
1
It is possible that the dealer has seen a lot of older Jettas coming in with worn ignitions and that or maybe one extreme case that justifies his warning. I would put this information in the "it is possible catagory".If you kept the car long enough it might become a problem,in a scenario where with a single key the ignition switch would last 250,000 miles ...
1
Misfires can also be caused by fuel delivery problems. Such as a fuel injector with debris in it, or one that's sticking. Not all configurations of fuel injection will result in a misfire in just one cylinder though. Depends if your injectors are cylinder specific or batch fire into a common manifold.
1
One thing to check is the EVAP system. If your gas tank is overfilled you may be getting some fuel in the charcoal canister.
First, make sure when your refuel, don't overfill your tank by trying to 'round up' to the next dollar, stop when the pump handle shuts off.
Some other things to check may be your refuel check valve and fuel cutoff valve ...
1
I'd say check at a dealership parts counter, except that Saturn dealers don't exist anymore. I thought I heard something about Saturn having their own parts system separate from what all the other GM divisions used, but I can't find anything to confirm/deny that at the moment. You could try the parts counter at a Cadillac/Chevy/Buick/GMC dealer. Taking ...
1
Sounds like you are not burning your mixture in the vertical cylinder, and the warmth is transfer from the horizontal cylinder. The vibration is usually can be caused by said dead cylinder, and the difference in force in the strokes creates an off balance in your crankshaft. This happens in motor vehicles as well, and its normally caused by a lack of ...
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