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7

Check the other end of the wires to make sure you did not loosen them. Your wires could be going bad and moving them around made the problem worse. Would not hurt to replace them as well. Also it could just be a coincident with the spark plugs, it could be a fuel issue or a problem with your distributor. Although, this is less likely than the first two ...


7

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


7

Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance. Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc. If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time. On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best. I've tried other brands ...


7

Most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engines power is not being transmitted to the transmission. Cost of a clutch replacement is to varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much more ...


5

Nothing. It could work exactly the same as a keyed ignition, in which case your starter motor would engage, but manufacturers (and I think this is true for all) have added a simple piece of logic which only engages the starter if the engine is not already running. This would be the ideal solution for keyed ignition as well, but it has only been in ...


4

That is probably knocking, or premature detonation. It's a little hard on the motor. It's likely that you should be in a lower gear or ease off the throttle whenever you hear it. It is probably normal for that car. Higher octane gas might help, but it's not good for the car to drive in too high a gear.


4

Whenever you have a cranks won't run condition the first step is to see what's missing, fuel or fire. First pull a spark plug wire off, stick a thin screwdriver in the end of the wire where the spark plug goes. Hold the side of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from a metal part of the engine, while holding onto the handle (insulating yourself from the ...


4

The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees ...


4

I know my vehicle is equipped with a battery load monitor. When the computer (I assume the body control module) senses a load above some factory set value for more than 10 minutes with the engine off, it disables the power circuit. To reset it requires cycling the ignition switch. Turn the key to start nothing happens, turning the key a second type returns ...


4

The main noise you hear is the starter motor. This is a high torque motor whose purpose is to turn the engine at a rate sufficient to allow it to run. If you run a starter motor with no load it is still quite noisy, but as you will hear when starting your car, it tries to get the engine up to speed, fuel is pumped in, the spark plugs fire, and if all is ...


4

There are 3 areas to focus on: Battery: Make sure your battery can still hold a charge well as cold is going to show problems first. Double check that your battery cables are tight and not overly corroded. Starter: As Bob asked, if the starter is the original it could be going bad and struggling under only tough conditions Electrical/Ignition Switch: ...


4

That's the wire that goes to the tachometer to show you the RPM of the engine. It's one pulse per spark. You set the number of cylinders on tach and it's then divides by that number to display the RPM of the engine.


3

Shift out of and back into park a few times, and try to wiggle the shifter around park while you try to turn the key out. This would be the 'usual' reason the key would be stuck in. Next, try moving the steering wheel slightly, while again trying to back out the key. If that's not it, is there a button you need to press to release the key? If so, push it ...


3

IF you have an E39 with an M54 engine, it is as easy as: Unplugging Battery Unplug cable, and possibly unscrew rail Unscrew each coil pack, and replace Reconnect all items, and test drive Not a very hard job, as all the packs are exposed once you remove the cover.


3

I dont think you have much to worry about honestly. I'd be more worried about the plastic link between the metal key and the plastic key fob breaking. (I have a TDi as well - a 2001.) My keys are heavy and have a lot of stuff, and i've never had an issue with it. Is it possible? Sure. Is it likely? No.


3

If the bike has a carburetor, try cleaning the idle jet (well, just spray the whole intake throat with carburetor cleaner, it's in there somewhere). If it's injected, then run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it. You might also have a problem with a dirty air filter, but if the bike was just serviced I assume they would have checked that. You could ...


3

The keys don't necessarily need a rubber head to be 'smart keys', some embed a small resistor inside of them that isn't very noticeable. The fact that the cylinder turns at all means the grooves aren't too worn, etc. It either matches the lock wafers or it doesn't. I would look online for a programming method for new keys. It's likely that the battery went ...


3

First, I think you're changing gear way to early if you're changing up from 3rd to 4th at 2000rpm, especially when the engine is under load. There's a reason the redline is higher than that :). You're not really doing yourself a favour with that, and neither are you doing the engine a favour. Knock or pinging is usually caused by the fuel burning ...


3

A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, & Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece: To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spark a little starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, ...


3

You can find the spark plug gap specifications on a sticker that will be either on the radiator support or on the underside of the hood (there are other locations such as the strut towers, etc). This is the gap that should be used when using the OEM spark plugs and even when using an off-branded plug that is a valid replacement for the OEM brand. Here are a ...


3

If the other ignition coil went bad it could cause a misfire which could make it hard to start. It gets fairly cold where I live. One of the first things to check would be your battery. If it doesn't have enough cold cranking amps, either because it is old or because it never had enough, then it can be really hard to start a car in the cold. Also check ...


3

This sounds like there is an issue with the ground at the battery. Sometimes it appears there is a good connection there (especially when using side post terminals), yet there is only enough of a connection to allow the low amperage stuff to work. Then, when you turn the key, the starter starts to engage, but then continuity is lost because there is not ...


3

This varies a lot by model, era etc., but a general overview: The first thing that happens is the ancilliary electrical systems are powered: Lights Radio (often the radio will be permanently wired, but this varies) Windscreen wipers Dashboard gauges Fans Anything that runs off switched ignition but also the Engine control unit, or ECU, which is what ...


3

Although this question can raise differing opinions the very basic answer is yes you can use non OEM parts. In some cases they offer better warranties than the OEM brand. Aftermarket parts are in general made to the same specifications as the OEM part. You do want to be careful with your sources of aftermarket parts. Buy only parts from reputable suppliers. ...


2

If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip. The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of ...


2

Found the culprit the jets were fine, however the float bowl was full of residue and water, as well as the jet carrier bolt being snapped in half so the jets were moving along to where they were not able to fuel the cylinder. After a full strip down, rebuild and calibration its now firing on both cylinders correctly.


2

Have you checked your codes? Could that be going to a crank sensor? If the car cannot detect the crank sensor, it will likely not start in the manner you describe.


2

I don't know why he would beat on your car, as the problem will likely just return. The problem likely lies in one of these places: The tag in the key itself (RFID) read by the computers, the ring that provides the field required to read the tag, or the computer that recognizes the tag. Beating it fixes nothing.


2

Answer care of cgsheen at Desert Datsuns 1st: If you haven't downloaded the Factory Service Manual from xenons30.com, please do it. Start here (if you haven't already): - Check ALL your rubber. By that I mean all the intake boots & connections, all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Make sure nothing is disconnected, cracked, or broken. ...


2

I suspect the bang was, as you suggest, unburnt fuel going up. I take it you now have a good spark, if it has been running well since changing the coil? As Mauro's comment says, what do the plugs look like? Are they clean, or do they show signs of overfuelling? Does it turn over at normal speed on the starter, or does it spin a lot faster, slower or ...



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