Tag Info

New answers tagged

0

I agree with Allen Osborne, I had this happen to my Suburban, the line on the back of the pump loosened up and started pouring fluid out. Get a mechanic to check it out.


2

The screeching and fluid on the ground you have described is typical of a large system leak on your power steering. You will need to have a mechanic/repair shop look at your system. Do not drive the vehicle, firstly because of the safety implications and secondly because driving the vehicle will extend any damage that may have been caused.


1

The following is a summary of generic OBD II drive cycle instructions for a Hyundai: • The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) should be between 14 and 122 degrees F. • Barometric pressure should be equal to or greater than 75 kPa. • The fuel tank should be between 25 and 75% full at the start of the test. •During acceleration, keep throttle 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 ...


1

I think I can come up with four options for you: Get some rubber cement and run a small bead around all of the connection points of the hose to make sure they are sealed. Ensure you clean the rubber very well prior to putting any sealant on it. Go to a junk yard (or look online) for a replacement. Find an aftermarket cold air intake as a replacement. If ...


1

You have a couple of choices here, neither of which includes you cleaning these yourself. You do not have the equipment or chemicals to correctly or efficiently clean and flow test these injectors. It is important to ensure each of the injectors flows the same amount of fuel in a given time at a specified fuel pressure. Only a professional service can ...


3

The injectors you have shown in your pictures are not servicable items. They can be tested using the appropriate service machinery. You should be able to get a new set of external seals though. When tested professionally they are tested for their electrical performance, delivery performance, and spray pattern over varying fuel pressures and voltages. ...


0

Bank 1 on any engine is the bank that carries No 1 cylinder. Sensor1 is the first sensor from where the exhaust manifold bolts onto the engine/head. Some scans will show an 'N/A' on a four cylinder engine for Bank2. This means that the ECU is programmed for a four cylinder, but can be programmed for a 6 or 8 cylinder vee using differant software. Your ...


2

There are three parts to do what you want to do. You need a plug in reader. The one on your link will do. This part reads the coding from your system and 'broadcasts' it. Then you need an Android smart phone to pick up the 'broadcast' and act as a display unit for the codings. The smart phone will need an app to do this. If you are still googling, look up ...


0

You've done SOME damage, but probably not a great deal of damage. You've shortened your battery life somewhat by contributing to its sulfation. Some irreversible sulfation is inevitable in lead-acid batteries. Some is reversible, some is not. The deeper a (lead-acid) battery is discharged, the greater the amount of irreversible sulfation. Part of the ...


0

Generally batteries that are damaged from excessive discharge will be protected by a discharge monitoring circuit that prevents discharge beyond a certain point, however these circuits themselves draw a small amount of power, which means that even with such a circuit, a battery could be damaged if left undercharged for an extended period of time (weeks, not ...


1

Leaving the headlamps on for a couple of hours will not do any signicant damage to a car battery. Re-charging the battery overnight would normally put it back to fully charged. 'Smart' alternators used on todays vehicle will also charge your battery. When discharging, the plates of the battery become sulphated. Charging the battery removes this sulphation. ...


2

It depends on how deeply-discharged the battery was. If the battery is high enough capacity two hours may not harm it. Starter batteries (used to start automobiles) are designed differently from deep-discharge (or "marine") batteries. (For traditional flooded acid batteries) starter batteries are designed to provide lots of current to turn an engine, and ...


5

If you got a low point discharge, your battery is damaged. Some chemical processes can not be reconverted from that point. If you drive around for some time, your battery will get warm and have a little bit more charge then cold. That could be enough to start the car once again. You don't loose anything if you try to charge you battery. Maybe you are lucky. ...


1

If the above is true (no spark and no injector pulse), then it could be caused by any combination of the following: Key Immobilizer faulted (unlikely unless you're using a non-standard key or bypassed it for a remote starter or some crazy electrical nonsense). If it is this, to replace the immobilizer unit and/or keys could be around $300 or so. Crank ...


0

The latest offerings of OB2 to Android can be a useful quick look tool. With an Elm 327 interface to the diagnostic plug, and software such as Torgue Pro, they will give you fault codes and simulated gauges. iOBD2 is another good offering, and is supplied with specific software for specific vehicle makes. They do not go anywhere near in performance and range ...


1

For your vehicle to start you need fuel, ignition, and compression. You can check the ignition easily by holding one of the plug wires, after removing it from the spark plug, a short distance - a quarter of an inch - from the engine block. Have an assistant crank the engine. You should see a strong spark to the block if the ignition is working OK. The fuel ...


0

I know that Torque recommends one of those $70 adapters, but I bought a generic one from the Chinese equivalent of Amazon for $20 and it's working just fine.


2

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I suggest getting your fuel pump checked out or replacing it... Usually this is the type of problem that starts out small and eventually gets to the point where you are at right now. Have you noticed recently that the engine seems to have less power at high rpms? Or that maybe it has even started dieing even while you ...


0

Code P0171 is a pretty general code for 'engine running weak'. Running weak means too much air, or, not enough fuel. The main culprits are a loose or damaged vacuum hose, EGR valve staying open, EVAP system leaking air into the system, faulty fuel injector(s), or a leaking exhaust system. It does not seem to be the oxygen sensor to me because you have rough ...



Top 50 recent answers are included