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12

My first concern is that you have an exhaust leak. The exhaust is designed to exit at the rear and or side of the car, far away from your fresh air intake of the ventilation system in the cowl area. I would check for an exhaust leak starting at the front as you stated that it's coming in from through the ventilation system. This can be dangerous and should ...


12

The first thing I would check is the blower motor resistor. This device will usually be located near the blower motor under the dash, and will have an electrical connector with 4 to 5 wires coming out of it. It's job is to add more resistance to current flow with each lower speed. It really just 3 resisters wired in series all inside one component. High ...


5

The single most common reason is something, often leaves or the like, finding their way into the fan. Regardless, you really need to remove the fan to fix the problem. If you don't know where it is then it's time to get that workshop manual you should already have to do regular maintenance and repair on the vehicle. once the fan has been removed rig up some ...


5

The blend air doors on the Windstar are vacuum controlled. The default position is defrost (windshield vents), meaning that if you loose vacuum supply it changes to defrost position. Look for a vacuum hose going through the firewall and trace it to where it hooks up to the intake manifold. It goes through a one way check valve and it teed into a vacuum ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

I assume you've checked/changed the fuse first? If the blower motor is easy to get at, I would go and pulling the connector off and check that you're actually getting power to the motor and only then pull the motor if you've confirmed that you do. It wouldn't be the first time that it's actually the fan switch or something upstream from the blower motor ...


4

Possible Causes: Coolant Level Thermostat stuck open Heater Control Valve Temperature blend door Plugged heater core Coolant Level Coolant level that's even a little low can affect heater performance. It's near the top of the system so there could be enough coolant to prevent the engine from overheating but not enough to make it through the heater core. ...


3

I did a bit more research and it looks like this link sorts my issue: http://www.blower-motor-resistor.co.uk/vauxhall-vectra-c-blower-motor-resistor.html


3

The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always ...


3

Update: The problem was indeed a leaky exhaust system! Alarmingly, the service shop I had tasked with the repair did not find this leak, but another authorized dealer found and fixed it. I'm horrified that a repair shop can manage to not find a fault like this, but glad to note that I'm not stupid: there really was a problem. Since then, I've sold the car ...


3

It's fairly common for the fan switch to go bad. You might be able to connect 12v directly to the fan motor and see if it runs, if there are only two wires going to the fan. But there are more than two wires and you hook 12v to the wrong ones, you could do some damage to an otherwise good fan.


3

The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See: http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.


3

Yes, the option exists in some models. E.g. in my 2002 Opel Astra, I can enable/disable any of the air channels on climate control independently from others: Usually, there's one ventilation duct going upwards and one going downwards, like here on Suzuki Vitara ('00-'06 model): The flap that controls whether the air from upper duct leads to defrost or ...


2

It depends on the mechanism used to switch the vent direction (I'm not familiar with the Windstar as they don't sell it over here). Most cars I have dealt with have a mechanical connection for that, but obviously a mechanical connection would be very unlikely to fail in the way you describe. I'm guessing from your symptoms that is is probably electrically ...


2

A Diesel Engine will not emit carbon monoxide no matter what. The Diesel engine, even at idle, has a ratio of fuel / air much-much lower than a typical gasoline engine. Therefore there's more than enough Os for the Cs (oxygen for the carbon) so no monoxide will ever be produced. There could be other harmful gases in the exhaust or at least it's annoying to ...


2

Great post, it really helped me solve the same problem. I took some photos specific to the Nissan Note, I can send them if you want to expand the article. My problem turned out to be a failed solder joint on the resistor board. Firstly remove the glove box by taking out 5 screws (2 underneath and 3 on top) BLUE circles... remove the glove box and look for ...


2

I wouldn't spray oil into the vents. It'll likely make the air stink for awhile without helping anything. Many times the fan is accessible by removing a panel under the passenger side dash (right above where their feet would be). This may be the same location as a dust filter on some cars. If the fan is accessible in this area, you can try some lubricant. ...


2

You say the radiator fans work but those conditions sure sound like you aren't getting airflow when stopped. I say this based on your symptoms: Cooling goes down to zero when the car is stationary, starts to cool after the car has been moving for some time When stationary you are relying on the fan(s) to move air through the condensor to keep the system ...


2

Check to see if there is a recall. Ford Contours came from the factory with a resistor blowing feature. The fix was new wiring, a new resistor, and a new climate control switch. I fixed one that had a resistor that looked like it had been in a toaster. Wires were melted, too. And of course, the recall had just expired. Ugh. Do your resistors just ...


2

With the a/c off, the air coming into the cabin should be at outside temperatures unless something under the bonnet is heating it up. If your engine is running at correct speeds I'd be tempted to look at the airflow path and see if a hose is running along a radiator or resting on one of the hotter bits of the engine. Or is your cabin heater switch broken? ...


2

The defrost setting (left most position on the right knob) should cycle the a/c and blow dried air onto the windshield. The a/c should dehumidify the air the result of which is less fog. The recirc function you are looking for is the two right most switch positions. This is not the selections you want for defogging. The humidity in the cabin will not be ...


2

In lieu of a better (more specialized) answer, I would use high temperature grease. Nothing too expensive though, I doubt those hinges get hotter than 500F.


2

You need to stop what's getting in the HVAC system that's stopping up the drain, most likely dirt, debris, and leaves. These are entering they system through the fresh air intake of the HVAC system located in the cowl area. You can see the fresh air inlet below, anything small enough to get through that grate will eventually end up in your AC drain. ...


2

I have the same problem with my 2010 300 and I now think it is a design flaw. Later models have fixed the problem with door vents that help. I am also in Ontario and this winter <2015> is proving to be tough for fogging the windows. What seems to work is running the defog on full blast (which is noisy, unfortunately) and keeping the temperature inside at ...


2

It sounds like maybe a bad passenger zone actuator in the HVAC controls causing the issue up front. As for the rear, that could be another actuator. I think there is a separate evaporator for the rear, it could have a clogged expansion valve or a leak. If it's leaking, you should lose the front A/C fairly soon. I don't think the seat wiring has anything to ...


2

Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...


2

Your Sonata has a cabin air filter (CAF). You should try to change that out first. More than likely, you have some mildew built up somewhere. The CAF is the first place to start.


2

Short answer, ALL of the convienences mentioned above reduce the fuel economy of a car, any electircal system you use will affect the fuel economy,to understand why we must know how these systems are powerd exactly, its not as as you think. The battery operates when you start the car, the moment the car is started the , the power to run the electric ...


1

If the passenger side vents are working correctly, I'd guess that you've got a blockage somewhere. I doubt the actuator itself could block it, but it is entirely possible for a foreign object to get stuck in there and block it up - your most likely suspect is leaves, they get blown into the inlet every autumn (fall) and gradually build up inside the pipes ...


1

Sounds very much like a worn blower motor so you at least have to get at the motor to find out what it worn. While you're that deep in the car you might as well replace it with a new one.



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