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12

My first concern is that you have an exhaust leak. The exhaust is designed to exit at the rear and or side of the car, far away from your fresh air intake of the ventilation system in the cowl area. I would check for an exhaust leak starting at the front as you stated that it's coming in from through the ventilation system. This can be dangerous and should ...


12

The first thing I would check is the blower motor resistor. This device will usually be located near the blower motor under the dash, and will have an electrical connector with 4 to 5 wires coming out of it. It's job is to add more resistance to current flow with each lower speed. It really just 3 resisters wired in series all inside one component. High ...


8

There is no real point in doing a resistance measurement. BWM, like with most other stuff, decided to put more in there than you need. They have put active elements in there, that control the current through the motor based on a control input signal, this is nothing to do with a bad resistor, but with some failure in the transistor-drive somewhere inside ...


5

The single most common reason is something, often leaves or the like, finding their way into the fan. Regardless, you really need to remove the fan to fix the problem. If you don't know where it is then it's time to get that workshop manual you should already have to do regular maintenance and repair on the vehicle. once the fan has been removed rig up some ...


5

The blend air doors on the Windstar are vacuum controlled. The default position is defrost (windshield vents), meaning that if you loose vacuum supply it changes to defrost position. Look for a vacuum hose going through the firewall and trace it to where it hooks up to the intake manifold. It goes through a one way check valve and it teed into a vacuum ...


5

Here's an image to a cooling system for your reference. Each vehicle has it's own unique setup. The differences in some cases are slight and in some very big. You can see the placement of your heater core. Here's another image of a general layout for an AC system. A Haynes service manual is about $20. They are worth their weight in gold if ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

I assume you've checked/changed the fuse first? If the blower motor is easy to get at, I would go and pulling the connector off and check that you're actually getting power to the motor and only then pull the motor if you've confirmed that you do. It wouldn't be the first time that it's actually the fan switch or something upstream from the blower motor ...


4

Possible Causes: Coolant Level Thermostat stuck open Heater Control Valve Temperature blend door Plugged heater core Coolant Level Coolant level that's even a little low can affect heater performance. It's near the top of the system so there could be enough coolant to prevent the engine from overheating but not enough to make it through the heater core. ...


3

I did a bit more research and it looks like this link sorts my issue: http://www.blower-motor-resistor.co.uk/vauxhall-vectra-c-blower-motor-resistor.html


3

The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always ...


3

Update: The problem was indeed a leaky exhaust system! Alarmingly, the service shop I had tasked with the repair did not find this leak, but another authorized dealer found and fixed it. I'm horrified that a repair shop can manage to not find a fault like this, but glad to note that I'm not stupid: there really was a problem. Since then, I've sold the car ...


3

It's fairly common for the fan switch to go bad. You might be able to connect 12v directly to the fan motor and see if it runs, if there are only two wires going to the fan. But there are more than two wires and you hook 12v to the wrong ones, you could do some damage to an otherwise good fan.


3

The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See: http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.


3

Yes, the option exists in some models. E.g. in my 2002 Opel Astra, I can enable/disable any of the air channels on climate control independently from others: Usually, there's one ventilation duct going upwards and one going downwards, like here on Suzuki Vitara ('00-'06 model): The flap that controls whether the air from upper duct leads to defrost or ...


3

@Paulster2 is spot on. The AC clutch has to be engaged in order to set the correct baseline for high-side/low-side refigerant pressure. I will add one point here that is often overlooked. The ideal thing to do is find out the mass of refrigerant that is required to fully charge the system, because that is really what the whole system is designed for. Here ...


3

As far as I understand it, your pollen filter is filthy and should be cleaned or replaced.


3

Air in an A/C system is a significant contaminate. It raises pressures and decreases cooling efficiency. System refill steps: Pull vacuum on the system to 29mm/hg for at least 1/2 hour. This low pressure and time has two purposes. Removes almost all the air. boils out any water that may be in the system. As a leak check; seal the system with a gauge ...


3

Bad AC odors are usually related to poor drainage of condensation, which allows mold to grow. There is a small drain hose which allows the condensation to drip out, but this can get clogged up or blocked by dirt. If this is the cause, then simply cleaning out the drain may be enough to clear things up. A quick google for your car model and air ...


2

It depends on the mechanism used to switch the vent direction (I'm not familiar with the Windstar as they don't sell it over here). Most cars I have dealt with have a mechanical connection for that, but obviously a mechanical connection would be very unlikely to fail in the way you describe. I'm guessing from your symptoms that is is probably electrically ...


2

A Diesel Engine will not emit carbon monoxide no matter what. The Diesel engine, even at idle, has a ratio of fuel / air much-much lower than a typical gasoline engine. Therefore there's more than enough Os for the Cs (oxygen for the carbon) so no monoxide will ever be produced. There could be other harmful gases in the exhaust or at least it's annoying to ...


2

Great post, it really helped me solve the same problem. I took some photos specific to the Nissan Note, I can send them if you want to expand the article. My problem turned out to be a failed solder joint on the resistor board. Firstly remove the glove box by taking out 5 screws (2 underneath and 3 on top) BLUE circles... remove the glove box and look for ...


2

I wouldn't spray oil into the vents. It'll likely make the air stink for awhile without helping anything. Many times the fan is accessible by removing a panel under the passenger side dash (right above where their feet would be). This may be the same location as a dust filter on some cars. If the fan is accessible in this area, you can try some lubricant. ...


2

You say the radiator fans work but those conditions sure sound like you aren't getting airflow when stopped. I say this based on your symptoms: Cooling goes down to zero when the car is stationary, starts to cool after the car has been moving for some time When stationary you are relying on the fan(s) to move air through the condensor to keep the system ...


2

It sounds like you have mildew in the ventilation system. We've discussed similar situations a few times before: here and here. You probably want to check those questions and decide whether what they describe applies to you. Apparently, you are correct: the Corolla did not get a cabin filter until 2002. That's annoying but isn't a show-stopper. As a ...


2

Check to see if there is a recall. Ford Contours came from the factory with a resistor blowing feature. The fix was new wiring, a new resistor, and a new climate control switch. I fixed one that had a resistor that looked like it had been in a toaster. Wires were melted, too. And of course, the recall had just expired. Ugh. Do your resistors just ...


2

With the a/c off, the air coming into the cabin should be at outside temperatures unless something under the bonnet is heating it up. If your engine is running at correct speeds I'd be tempted to look at the airflow path and see if a hose is running along a radiator or resting on one of the hotter bits of the engine. Or is your cabin heater switch broken? ...


2

You need to stop what's getting in the HVAC system that's stopping up the drain, most likely dirt, debris, and leaves. These are entering they system through the fresh air intake of the HVAC system located in the cowl area. You can see the fresh air inlet below, anything small enough to get through that grate will eventually end up in your AC drain. ...


2

The defrost setting (left most position on the right knob) should cycle the a/c and blow dried air onto the windshield. The a/c should dehumidify the air the result of which is less fog. The recirc function you are looking for is the two right most switch positions. This is not the selections you want for defogging. The humidity in the cabin will not be ...


2

In lieu of a better (more specialized) answer, I would use high temperature grease. Nothing too expensive though, I doubt those hinges get hotter than 500F.



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