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In the fuse box, as shown in the picture: Left-low beam is fuse F1, right-low beam is F6. Also look at the two 40amp fuses, marked F15 and F19. These two 40 amp fuses feed the other fuses. Fuses F1 to F4 are supply-fused by F19, and fuses F5 to F9 are supply-fused by F15.


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I would bet the problem lies in the relay, which should be located under the hood. It should look something like this: Each of the high beams and low beams will have their own relay. The switch which is only used to energize the relay. The relay provides the power for the head lights. The underhood fuse box should look like this: On the underside of ...


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From time to time you do come across a rusted in sensor. Your vehicle being a 2001, and O2 sensors lasting some time, yours is rusted in. If sheer force does not work you may need to use an oxy-acetalyne torch on the sensor to heat to it red-hot to break the rusting and undo it with a good single-hex deep socket. I have had one or two sensors break up and ...


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This website says it's a 3.7 gallon tank with a 0.9 gallon reserve. I'm thinking you aren't filling it to the top or even near the filler neck. If you have the filler handle nose stuck down in the tank, as soon as the gas covers the snout it's going to click off. Try pulling it out a little bit and filling it some more. If you can see space between the ...


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If you are going to replace the sensor and have already purchased the replacement, cut the wires off of the old sensor and put a 1/2" drive deep well socket onto it (don't use the split socket for the O2 sensor to take it off, but you will use it to put it back on). Use a breaker bar to break it free, then use a ratchet the rest of the way. If you do not ...


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There is no "normal" battery draw. It varies depending on whether the engine is running, what the load on the alternator is, how much electricity the alternator is generating, and what accessories are in use. More accessories being used creates a larger draw. When the engine is off and no accessories or lights are on, there should be minimal draw on the ...


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Because the air pressure being comparatively low at high altitudes, it might cause the above mentioned problems. And working on the carburetor if you don't have any experience is a bad idea, because it could ultimately lead to engine overheating and such problems that could ruin you engine. Contact a mechanic and he should be able to adjust the AFR for you ...


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75 - 100 milliamp This is standard across most modern cars.


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Most auto part stores will loan enough tools to test what's wrong. Check your fuel pressure, your cylinder compression, and make sure your ignition system doesn't have water damage. If there are any DTCs those would help pinpoint the exact problem also.


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I agree with Paulster2, it's very probably that you have water trapped in your exhaust. After it runs for a few minutes, is there any steam coming out of the tailpipe? A little steam is normal after first start up but after the engine warms up it should stop. If you have a never ending source of steam you can take apart the exhaust system and dump it out ...


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I only used CVT fluid. I did a change at 150k then did another change at 180k. I read a lot about once you change the fluid the detergent can break down the build up and then it destroys your transmission. So the second chance it to allow for the break down slug to be drained out. At that time I also swapped out all the plugs. Now I have 330k and I am doing ...


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I had a 70cc honda scooter that did the same thing. The voltage regulators on some of their bikes were pretty screwy... the lower the battery voltage, the higher the output voltage from the gen. I measured mine one time without a battery at over 20 volts output! The only solution is to get a battery, or try to find a more appropriate voltage regulator. ...


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Total agreement with dobey. Coolant doesn't just disappear. It either goes on the ground (external leak), in the passenger floorboard (heater core), in the engine oil (head gasket), gets burned up (head gasket, or possibly intake gasket), boils off, or it stays put. I won't address any of the stuff that you've done, but I will add: 1: compression test ...


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From what I see, the bulb is a 1157A. These are very standard bulbs and can be picked up most anywhere (Walmart, AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly's, etc). The "A" in the identification indicates it as an amber bulb. You can find the 1157 which is the same exact bulb without the amber tint.


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If you are losing coolant (you say you have to add coolant daily), then there are only two places it can go. Either on the ground or in the engine. Check your oil to see if it's a milky color. If it is, then the oil and coolant are mixing and you will need the engine rebuilt. If not, then you probably won't need to replace the engine. Next, does the exhaust ...


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From your question, you have an intermittant fault somewhere on the cooling system. The way forward would be to replace the engines thermostat, making sure the new thermostat is a genuine Honda part. Get on the net if you have too, but make sure it is a genuine Honda part. The next step is an 'Extended Road Test'. The ideal test would be for your mechanic to ...


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Without knowing if the bike is 12v or 6v, assuming you don't want to buy a battery, get an LED bulb, they are less apt to blow. Also, does the bike have a voltage regulator?


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Axle nut is 27mm and the other side is hex head 24mm, this was on a 2002 - it should be the same from 2000 to 2007


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Honda's Super Handling All Wheel Drive (SH-AWD) is a full-time 4WD system, available on Honda Legend and Honda's luxury brand Acura (models RL, MDX, RDX, TL, ZDX). Cars equipped with Variable Torque Management 4WD (VTM-4) fall somewhere in between. While normally FWD, they engage rear wheels on any acceleration and allow driver to lock all-wheel drive on ...


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Check inside the boots on your steering rack. With your vehicle properly supported on jack stands, remove the wheels and take a pair of pliers and squeeze the clamps on the outer collar of the inner tie rod boots on the rack and slide a small pocket screwdriver or something similar CAREFULLY between the tie rod and the boot collar to see if there is any ...


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This sounds very much like a fault with your water pump seizing, as it comes across as temperature related. A quick check by your favourite mechanic should tell you more. The power steering fluid will have a 'sort of pungent smell' as normal, which can easily be confused with being 'burnt'.



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