New answers tagged

1

Fuse box is good on a Honda, choose the terminal where the source cable is connected directly to the battery, be sure to use an in line fuse (30A) on your wire. Use #10 wire to connect your accessory to the terminal.


0

It sounds more like a transmission issue than a engine issue. It sounds like it not going to first gear but when you rev the engine it upshifts into second and drive normally. I could be a slipping clutch. In automatics there are pairs of clutches for each gear. When changing gears one clutch applies and other partially applies until it moves fast enough to ...


2

Many manufacturers will recommend insertion of a pin to unclog a windshield sprayer. It doesn't always work but is definitely worth trying before buying.


3

I've managed to repair these jets (and re-align them) by using a dress pin pushed down the nozzle. Typically either dirt or polish (depending on how you maintain your car) accumulates at the exit point of the nozzle and a pin is enough to clear it.


6

High Pressure Air I would disconnect the hose from that sprayer from the motor that gives it the pressure to spray. I would go where there is high pressure air. In my case that would be my shop. I would have an air gun with a rubber tip. I would take that air gun with a rubber tip and push it tightly against the sprayer nozzle and use the high pressure ...


3

The two faults may or may not be related For the idle speed code: 1) Clean the throttle valve. 2) Relearn the idle speed. To do this remove both battery cables and connect them together for 10 minutes. While they are apart take the opportunity to clean off any the acid. After 10 minutes connect them back together, start then engine and let it run at idle ...


0

I just had issues with my Honda as well. Maybe you should try replacing all the engine management, ignition, starter switch fuses. I thought my issue was more serious and ended up being a fuse.


2

OK, So Thank you to those that tried to answer my question. I did find the problem, I've had this car for only 1 year and never had any issues so when this came up I was forced to look at the systems etc, thanks to Ben's answer I didn't even know that this car had 2 separate fuse panels one under the hood and one hidden nicely under the front dash, under the ...


4

To be honest you need to be able to view live data using a scan tool. If you don't have access to these it may be cheaper to take it to a shop that specializes in Hondas. It's not inconceivable that both AFR sensors failed at the same time, but unlikely. Don't replace potentially expensive AFR sensors without doing basic checks first. Check for vacuum ...


6

When you get a bunch of codes on a car, the best way to work through is to fix only the first code - in this case the P2195. The easiest check is to look for a disconnected cable - Rear A/F Sensor Sensor 1 Bank 1 (which is also a cause of P1172). If everything checks out good, the other cause of a P2195 points towards the MAF having some debris in it. From ...


0

@paulster.. Yes.. The start sounds normal and yes jump off refers to getting a rolling start and Poppin the clutch. I do still have to pump the clutch several times before it will turn over..


2

Get the schematics for your car and trace out the starting circuit with a test light. Wondering in the clutch is 'false positive' and the issue is actually somewhere else, or if the clutch is moving a wire. Your clutch switch will not allow the starter to turn, so if the starter is turning, it is not related to the clutch switch. Your issue sounds to be ...


0

Next time you hear it click, come to a full stop, back up a bit, apply the brakes again to come to a stop, and try it forward again, listening for another click. If it clicks again, I'd say either the pads are loose enough to slide a bit or possibly the caliper slide pins. I wouldn't worry about safety in either case.


2

You also need to check the coolant tank if it has one, it may have a leak or the connecting hose has a leak, and when the water in the radiator expands, it's lost to the leak.


1

As stated before by Pete, I'd also recommend cutting or splicing the existing wires and adding your connections there. It'd be a lot easier and at times cheaper to do this as well. I've done multiple mods on many cars, and have done this method and not one has failed. As long as you do your testing in Phases, e.g. connect two wires, test all is working then ...


4

The power socket has a simple two cavity connector. It will most likely have #2 female spade connectors. Connect a new device with male spade connectors after first verifying polarity. I would not look for a matching connector, finding one is unlikely. I just take them apart and make a plan. Drawing of power connector. It may not matter to your plans ...


1

You could just strip, solder and heatshrink the relevant cables together - should just be two, I'd guess. Quicker, easier, and less likely to break than trying to match the plug on the back of the 12v outlet. If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, an autoelectrician wouldn't take longer than 15minutes if the cables were all accessible and you drove ...


6

You want to make sure you do not put tap water into the cooling system on your vehicle. The cooling system has a leak, which is why you need to refill it periodically. Look on the ground where you park and note any wet spots. Check all the hoses to and from your radiator for any signs of a leak such as wet fluid or runny looking patches of evaporated fluid ...


5

Brake hard on smoother pavement or cement The smoother roadbed will have a better surface for you tires to slide across and in order to grab and release repeatedly to make the sound you are looking for. Tires squeal when they are grabbing the road surface and letting go thousands, if not more, times a second. The vibrating tire emits the sound as it goes ...


3

The vehicle battery is not supplying enough power to run the starter. Test the battery and the connections and cables. The video is most helpful. The clicking is caused by the starter trying to turn and then shutting off due to lack of volatage and this process repeats over and over as long as the key is held in the start position.


1

The picture in your comment suggests the following course of action: The bolted type of battery terminal shown can cause this symptom and still look OK. Test it with a voltmeter. Put one probe on the lead of the battery and the other on the copper of the cable and then read the meter while trying to crank the engine. Do this for both connections. If the ...


4

This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is ...


9

A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place. If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust ...


12

Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows. This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid ...


17

Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery may be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never ...


2

I'm making my former comment an answer so that I can put pictures to explain better. First, don't mess with the grips. If they work fine with your hands dry then they don't need anything. If they don't work with dry hands, then do something to them, because using gloves shouldn't help much in that case. Then, going to the gloves subject. Even if you ride a ...


7

Its really simple. Gloves for both active protection - they stop you getting slippery hands and crashing. And in the end of a crash they stop your hands being smeared on the road. Alternative grips will also be available such as these Renthal grips, with a coarser grip pattern they should stop being so slippery even with sweaty hands. Personally I ...


1

I've seen electronic toys with very weak batteries do what you're describing. They try to come on, but as everything starts to power up, the little remaining battery current can't keep up, and the toy goes dark, just to start the process over again. If your battery is very weak, I could see how the key less entry system might be starting to "boot up" and ...


5

Make sure the car is in park or neutral with the parking brake on and apply power to the S terminal on the starter. This will tell you if it's the starter or not. If the engine turns over the fault is either in the transmission range switch/clutch safety switch, the starter relay, fuse or ignition switch.


2

IMO this classic low coolant level Even if your coolant looks fine in your overflow tank it doesn't mean your cooling system is at appropriate levels or that there is not air in your cooling system. Here is a perfect example of a similar situation. Strange overheating behaviour When your car is cool, remove the radiator cap and check your fluid level. ...


4

Sounds like it needs a new starter Honda OE starters do the slow crank then click thing when they start to go. Next time it acts up see if you can smack it with something. Your phantom issue sounds like the ECM Lost it's crankshaft variation pattern and regained it. You would need to get codes pulled to verify.


0

From here: http://certified-transmission.blogspot.com/2011/12/understanding-aw-55-50-neutral-control.html It is very similar to others manufacturers. The AW 55-50 transmission has a feature that Volvo calls “Neutral Control”. What it “Neutral Control” and what is its function? To tell you the truth, I wasn’t really sure, but below is what I was ...


6

Spark? looks good enough to me. Jumps a 30kV gap looks blue enough to rule out a secondary issue. Great. MAP sensor voltage looks OK < .90v with the engine hot @ idle. Pretty much rules out a sticking valve or the valves being out of adjustment. Concur, and just about rules out engine pumping problems. That and the good compression test. ...


4

I don't know about this car specifically but I've had a whole lot of time working as an air conditioning (AC) engineer at a Detroit based Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) The body control module (BCM) provides an interface for relays in the system, generally for things inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle. The Engine Control Module (ECM) ...


8

Figured out it (thanks to a shove in the right direction by @mikes): It's the remote engine start accessory's antenna. I didn't think of it when I was asked if I had "add-ons" because it's an official Honda accessory (that I can't do without!) installed by the dealer before taking delivery. Specifically, see this exploded diagram part #4: I went back ...


4

The D16A8 engine is the equivalent to the ZC DOHC engine (non-vtec). The VTEC head from the D16Y8 will not bolt on. Neither will the head from a B16A1. The head on the D16A8 is superior to that of the D16Y8 even without the VTEC. It flows better and really likes to be turbocharged. I suggest you turbocharge the engine instead of an engine swap. Cheaper and ...


1

The latest bmw's, and many cars using the ZF 8 speed gearbox (Jaguar XF, XE, most recent BMW's, and a number more) have an auto neutral feature. Automatic idle shift system at vehicle standstill and engaged service break (stand-by control) http://www.zf.com/corporate/en_de/products/product_range/cars/cars_8_speed_automatic_transmission.shtml So, not ...


1

I don't know about all manufacturers but I do specifically know for Volkswagen who'se model year starts in October. I have a 2003 registered VW Bora, registered on 17th Dec 2003. However, it build year on the sticker in the boot (trunk) tells me it is a 2004 model.


3

Most people just clean the EGR port with a small drill and think they are done. Just inside where the throttle body mounts They are 2 side passages that are often overlooked. I had to bend a wire and dig them out. They were stopped up solid. I also took a pressure washer to the plenum. Lots of gunk and carbon came out. Hope this helps someone. Gene


3

I've driven a few automatic Opel Vectra's (2003 model) and they all had something of what you describe. The transmissions were somehow smartly adaptive to my recent driving style (sporty or cruising). I also noticed that, when stopping briefly, they would respond immediately to the gas - but when stopping for more than maybe 20 seconds (and keeping pressure ...


15

To my understanding, no. I've never seen this behavior before in any auto I've ever driven or read about. I think it would be a safety issue if it did. If you needed to move suddenly (for whatever reason), pulled your foot off the brake pedal expecting the car to move, and it does nothing but rev the engine at you. This could be extremely dangerous on an ...


7

More than likely the bulbs have gone out (died) which services the needles which has gone dark. To replace these you'll need to dismantle the dash, which really isn't too hard (procedure found in this video). When you get the speedo cluster out, find the white plastic backing and remove it. Underneath of it, you should find the bulbs which need to be ...


5

this is a possibility I have not dealt with your bike in particular but on various CBR versions if the rectifier is bad and dumping a little AC current into the system then you can have the dash do a lot of crazy things. If you want to test the stator, here's a link. It's for a Suzuki but the 5 wires for the rectifier work the same as your bike. 1999 ...



Top 50 recent answers are included