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1

I believe it is possible to adjust the length of most wiper arms, but I don't think it is the best solution for your problem. It is not a common adjustment that one would make. The size the wipers are based on the size of the windshield and the placement of the wiper mounts as you figured. They are at a fixed length to ensure they get full coverage of the ...


1

The oil pan is not a regular wear item, though it might need to be replaced if it's rusted, cracked and/or leaking. Welding an oil pan is difficult, time consuming and not worth it.


3

As seen in the following diagram, your windshield lateral trim is basically a long deflector that is held in place by several clips. Image source: Hondapartsnow, http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1997-honda-accord-4dr_lx_abs-ka-4at/front-windshield.html Assembly #7 serves to deflect airflow, and probably can simply be taken off. Your car will just ...


2

Exactly what @Movemorecommentslinktotop said in his comment ... if the rear rotors, there is a second braking surface inside the rotor "hat" which is for the e-brakes. If you haven't backed these shoes off or if you have the e-brake on, you'll never get these off. The front brakes may be rusted around the hub and are not releasing. They can become "space ...


5

The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be visible to photograph without tools or disassembly, either as physical damage or oil leaking. Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you ...


4

I would check for: cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell) scratches stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-)) any deformation especially on the gasket level


4

Background This is a common issue with shim and bucket valve trains. As the valves are getting worn into the head a small groove is beat into the valve face after opening and closing so many times. As the valve pushes up into the head it takes up clearance between the cam lobe and the bucket which the cam lobe depresses to push the valve in and open it to ...


1

I drive a 2014 Civic EX coupe, automatic, and about a week ago turned the Econ button off... the icon light on the dash turned off. I bought the car several months ago and it didn't occur to me until now to try this. Performance has been about the same, but my mileage has actually INCREASED 3-4 MPG! Go figure.


-1

Issue could be with your air filter or intake system, Get it checked.


1

As noted in the comments, it can be difficult to diagnose from very little information. However, some things worth considering: Disk brakes have one or (more usually) two springs between the brake pads and the calipers: the pads move along these springs when in use. If they have been installed in an incorrect position (or even omitted - have seen that), ...


1

The easiest way to replace the DLC port is to find a vehicle exactly like yours (or even a close relative) and cut one from it. Then splice the "new" DLC port into your wiring, if you can find the point at which it was cut from the car. This would be an OBDI port you'd be looking for. If you do go this route, take as much wiring as you can get a hold of ...


1

If by "generic" you mean OBD1 or OBD2, the answer seems to be no according to this website. On another web page the table indicates that it is "OBD0".


1

I had a similar issue on my truck. What I found was the caliper was not moving correctly and the pad was wearing unevenly. One side of the caliper was stuck, so was causing the issue. For my truck, there is a rod which the caliper attaches to. This rod had rusted and was not allowing free movement. This caused the brake pad to wear unevenly and cause the ...


0

P0505 appears to relate to the Idle Stabilization Value or Air Idle Valve. I'd suggest checking the wiring is intact and firmly plugged in first followed by a thorough clean of the valve and throttle flap with a suitable solvent. If this doesn't work it may be a case of looking for a replacement valve I'm afraid.


3

That's the air intake resonator housing. Looks like the image is a still from a YouTube video


0

This could be a case of ice formation near the expansion valve. After the compressor runs for a certain period of time, the freon flow would be choked and would resume after a while when the ice has melted away. Ice formation can occur if somehow moisture got introduced into the system. As an experiment to pin point the problem, you can have your AC blow ...


1

A surging idle indicates a vacuum leak on the intake. You could have a leaking vacuum line (did you forget to plug something in?) or your intake gasket may not be sealing. Like Vince pointed out an hour ago, a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) could also cause this. Since it was not doing it before your engine work, my guess is the IACV is fine. With the ...


0

I had a similar problem with my 1998 Honda CRV. It turned out to be the idle air control valve (IACV). I cleaned it a couple of times but the symptom returned and my check engine light came on. I replaced it with a new one and it now runs fine. It should be located mid-engine, fire wall side, attached to the intake manifold, held in place with two bolts. ...


-1

It gives you 6% less horsepower with 6% more fuel efficiency.



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