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7

Your clutch might be bad If your clutch is slipping then the RPM's of the bike can go up but the bike doesn't accelerate as the clutch slips. Many times a clutch will start slipping when the engine is at a higher power output. If you are operating under higher RPM's in higher gears, this is when the greatest load is on the clutch, chances are you are ...


5

The fact that the fan comes on when the switch is jumped is very useful since this tests the power source, relays and fan motor. The fans can be activated by either the switch in the water passage near the thermostat housing or the coolant temperature sensor via the PCM (powertrain control module) located in the cylinder head below the distributor. So ...


5

You could take the screw out of the center of the knob. Remove it, then put it on only to shut off or turn on the fuel.


4

I encountered a similar problem with my Honda D15 engine. The car would start fine when it was cold, but have trouble starting warm, stumble under acceleration and sputter/die at idle. I had also tried replacing the fuel filter, plugs, wires, and an o2 sensor to no avail. I then purchased a coil pack and distributor rotor/cap. I had just enough time to ...


3

The CCA on a battery indicates the Cold-Crank-Amps of the battery. It means the amount of amps the battery is able to deliver in 0 degree Celsius . Higher CCA means better starting ability of the battery. I did some research online and I found out that you can use anything more than 130CCA on your motorcycle without any issues. Click for more info


3

The pressure generated at Top Dead Center on the Power stroke is very high. A "taller" gasket will have a larger cross-sectional area exposed to this pressure, so high "pounds/sq inch" grows proportionately as the area increases. Even the best Multi Layer Steel head gaskets are not designed to be part of the cylinder, just to seal the head to the block. ...


3

If the smoke being emitted from the exhaust is white with a hint of blue, it is oil. If the smoke is white with a sweet smell, it is antifreeze. As Anarach pointed out in the comments below, yours is an air cooled engine so there is no antifreeze. If you're burning oil, it definitely could be leaking past the piston rings, which would likely be fixed if ...


3

This is an interesting question, though it is probably way too broad. Honda claims that there has never been a warranty claim against their VTEC systems - as in, the solenoids and variable valve/timing system is quite reliable. This isn't at all to say that these engines don't fail - of course they do - however they have a very good track record for ...


3

Your oil pressure is lower I think the big issue with lugging is a considerably lower oil pressure along with high load. You don't want your connecting rod breaking the hydrodynamic lubrication layer of oil between your connecting rod and crank pin thereby causing damage to the bearing and the pin. This could cause permanent engine damage. Doing this at ...


3

It's your valves or the cam chain If you have a ticking sound, those are your two options. You haven't provided much data or info at all. Adjust your valves .004 inch clearance for your intake valves .005 inch clearance for you exhaust valves OR Check your cam chain tensioner to ensure it's putting the proper tension on your cam chain.


3

This sounds like a regulator fault. I sell these alternators daily, and we cannot get the regulator as a spare part (well, not here in NZ, anyway). The alternator has a feedback terminal to the ECU. If it does it again, give the alternator connector a clean and see if it goes away. If it does, the issue is a loose connection. If it doesn't, then the issue ...


3

Best recommendation: Purchase a $30 Haynes or Chilton repair manual from your local autoparts store. Best money spent ever. Then follow the troubleshooting guide in your book for "poor cooling". If indeed shorting out that Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) switch starts the fan and it never works otherwise, then the switch probably needs replacing. ...


2

sometimes dealers do that I've worked at a few MC dealerships. Sometimes the dealership with work with a contract painter who would do things like add accents to the gas tank or paint a caliper on a bike to differentiate it. This was pretty common. Occasionally they would do a custom pain job for the whole bike and of course sell it for a bit more. This ...


2

Motorcycle clutch plates sticking together in the morning is a fairly common complaint. The oil squeezes out from between the plates overnight, and they don't want to separate when you first pull in the clutch lever. One could conjecture that this is a sign the clutch is getting old and tired, but I had this problem with a brand new factory clutch in a ...


2

There are too many possibilities when it comes to draw. The compressor clutch could be staying on, alternator voltage regulator, a glovebox light, radio, computer etc... You're going to need to use an inductive amp probe and a multimeter to voltage drop the fuses. I'd avoid disconnecting battery terminals to hook an ammeter inline with the battery ground. ...


2

My 2008 Civic developed same symptoms. I am pretty certain it is the compressor clutch. I examined the compressor and noticed that the clutch on the front was rusty. Not scaley but brown. I downed the clutch assembly with WD 40. Worked. Maybe a short term fix but I'm not hot for the time being. If you try this don't spray on the belt nor the alternator fan.


2

Honda used VTEC for two applications: Fuel economy. For example the F18B engine with peak power of 136 shp. Rev limit of about 6000 rpm. Sometimes called i-VTEC. Performance is decent but not spectacular (many have low torque at low rpm so you need to shift down for overtaking). Performance. For example the F20C engine from the S2000, with ~230 shp. ...


2

First off, yes the starter solenoid is attached to the starter motor. And yes from your description it sure sounds like a problem starter. Are you doing this work yourself, or having it done? First have you checked ALL fuses and relays in the system? Do that first. There is likely two different fuse boxes to contend with, one inside the passenger ...


2

Double check everything. If you can power the S terminal on the starter and get the car to start than it's on the other side of the circuit. Pull the relay again and make sure when someone presses the clutch the relay coil is grounded. Check your fuses, the relay should have power on two pins, one that powers the relay coil while cranking and one that ...


2

The description doesn't say a lot, it might be anything. To me it seems like the rattle comes from the exhaust. It might be a sound of the engine (shooting vapors of fuel inside of an exhaust) and it is okay, but also it might be exhaust touching any other part of a car, like floor, rear axle, fuel tank etc. That might happen to older exhausts which might ...


2

It sounds like you may have a wheel that is out of balance. Sometimes, the balancing weights fall off. Visually inspect all your wheels and make sure you can see the balancing weight on all of them. They look like a little tab between the metal wheel and the rubber tire and usually have a number embossed on them. All wheel need one, if one's missing, there's ...


2

No, you didn't break the laws of physics. In fact, you confirmed them. If you "refilled" the refrigerant in the system from cans without pulling a very strong vacuum, you still have regular air in the system, and it will not cool. You are also subjecting the internal components to moisture, and that's bad. AC refrigeration emptying and refilling is not a ...


2

If the "gauge gets back to zero" at any time, on either the low or high side, you have a leak. Perhaps a very large one. The gauge should never read zero, unless ALL the refrgerant has leaked out. When you discharged the high side, are you certain the schrader valve core in the port re-seated? Or that debris hasn't ended up under the conical seal, ...


2

You can compensate for decking loss with a thicker gasket, and there are many on the market for Honda engines (esp the b Series). I can't say how well they hold up tho, but I know people who have successfully used them in Frankenstein builds (b18b bottom with bseries vtec head) with a fair amount of boost, and they seem to do fine, and they are also ...


1

If I had to guess this sounds like a four cylinder engine, with one or even two cylinder's misfiring. Best guess is a problem with either a spark plug wires, or an ignition module. I'm looking at high resolution photos of your engine compartment and its not clear on what type of ignition system you have. Generally there are two types of systems. One has a ...


1

1) I'd guess that the smoke is oil that is burning. If the piston/ring is bad, it could be allowing oil to be burned with the fuel. 2) Just make sure you buy a good quality part that fits your exact engine. 3) If the piston/ring is your problem, then oil consumption should decrease once fixed.


1

The A/C compressor has a clutch that engages when the A/C needs to run. It could be that the clutch/compressor is bad. You can verify this by looking at the end of the A/C compressor: within the pully wheel there is a disc that moves independently of the pully. I believe it should rotate most of the time when the system is cooling.


1

could be the high pressure sensor of your a/c when turned on the pressure in your a/c system builds up towards a couple of bar and then the sensor kicks in, because the pressure is too high. is your airco fan spinning? when stationary the fan should be starting after a minute or so. had the same problem on my golf mk4


1

It sounds like normal operation of the compressor for the a/c. It is run by a belt from the engine. It is normal for it to cycle on and off while the a/c is on or while the defrost is on. As long as it doesn't sound harsh or like it is switching off and on very frequently (every 3-5 seconds), then it is probably ok.


1

Lead-acid batteries contain a solution of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and water -- the solution is referred to as the battery's electrolyte. Adding a solute (in this case, H2SO4) to a solvent (in this case, H2O) will lower the freezing point of a solution. A fully charged battery has more H2SO4 than a discharged battery. The additional H2SO4 depresses the freezing ...



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