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8

You are correct that the only extra energy consumed is the electricity used by the blower fan to move the warmed air. In the grand scheme of things the extra fuel required to generate that electricity is miniscule. The coolant is circulated regardless of the heater setting. Moving the selector to cool or warm merely directs all the air over the heater core ...


7

As for the blower only working on max, that screams resistor pack. It's usually in the passenger foot well near the blower motor itself. Sounds like it's held in by two 8mm bolts in your case. Shouldn't be too terrible of a job, but you might want to avoid it if you've got back or neck problems. I usually put the seat back down as far as it will go and ...


7

Check the coolant temperature if you can (if it's an OBD-II car, some readers can give you coolant temperature). If you've got a coolant temp gauge, see if it looks any lower at all (most are pretty hard to read though, one tiny tick down can be a HUGE difference in coolant temperature). I suspect a failed thermostat that's sticking open. I had that ...


6

This is normal behavior. The A/C system is turned on to dehumidify the air, which causes the windshield to defog. Without it, your breath would freeze on the inside of the windshield and cause further issues. EDIT: Please note Bob Cross' comments below. I found instructions on the Honda Tech Forum which is supposed to give you full manual control over ...


6

Here's a nice tip: if you turn up the heat in your car, it helps lower the operating temperature of your engine. Sometimes by as much as 10%. Not a problem when you're driving around in icy cold weather, but if your car is overheating, turning on the heat, opening the windows and putting the blower on full could save your engine from popping a gasket. If ...


5

It takes a long time for the heat gauge to register as anything but cold, about 10-15 minutes. This is almost definitely a stuck open thermostat. The engine should reach operation temperature within 10 minutes, meaning middle of the gauge. You should see it start moving up within about 5 minutes


4

It looks an awful lot like you have diagnosed all of the really hard problems and come up negative. I wonder if you have a simple mechanical problem: is the linkage sound between the hot / cold selector and the flapper valve that forces air past the heater core. From what I hear, the foam around the flapper is also prone to disintegration in humid ...


3

It turns out the problem is pretty common with 3.5L Impalas. For some reason these engines loose coolant. Some blame is placed on headgaskets, some blame Dex-Cool. What ever the cause, refilling via the overflow jug can leave an air pocket in the cooling system. The cure is to fill via the pressure cap right to the top. Recheck the level after several ...


3

Hopefully your mechanic would pressure test the water pump before replacing it to determine if it's really bad. Having no heat is usually a symptom of a stuck open thermostat, but if that was the case, your temp gauge would not indicate hot...maybe a clogged heater core? Did your heater core get flushed? That wouldn't explain the temp gauge reading hot, ...


3

If the fan is blowing, but no hot air is coming out that means that no hot water is making it into the heater core. I can think of 3 reasons for this, each with a different solution. First, and easiest to check: make sure that there's enough coolant in the car. If it's low, there may not be enough fluid to circulate through the core. Second, the valve ...


2

Had similar issue in Skoda Felicia (which is much like an older Golf) I own. Check these steps: Close the salon heater. Start the car, wait till coolant gets to its normal temperature. Now open salon heater to the max and check if it readily blows hot air. The air will be hot at first, but quickly loose temperature. Close the salon heater, wait ~5-7min and ...


2

You very likely have a bad thermostat. Here are some similar questions that may provide some insight: Where'd my heat go? Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air? Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds In terms of your specific problem, I would check your engine temperature gauge: does the needle ever move up to its ...


2

Problem solved! The key was to finally locate the source of OBDII code PO 0171, left bank lean, which I realize was not part of my original question. Anyways, I found a leaky air hose connection between the manifold and the MAF, once I corrected it, the engine idle smoothed out and now we have heat as designed at idle.


2

A faulty, always open thermostat or a defective radiator temperature sensor would cause the symptoms you describe. When your cooling system sensors send implausible signals to the engine ECU, the ECU turns the fans on to run continuously soon after start-up. The thinking is that an engine running cooler is preferable to an engine being allowed to overheat.


1

There are two things which can be wrong (that I'm aware of) with the heater core. It can be plugged (not letting coolant through), or it can leak. If blocked, there's absolutely no issue. Drive without heat. If it leaks, you'll need to run your heater hoses in a loop, to bypass the heater core. Basically, you are taking one hose from one side (either intake ...


1

It sounds like there is something between the blower and the heater core, maybe even on the core itself. It could just be leaves which have gotten sucked in and are now blocking it. When the blend door is is over to the cold side, it blows air just fine. Yet when the blend door is pushing across the heater core, it is greatly reduced. This leads me to ...


1

Could also be failure on heater switch mechanics. It depends on hot/cool selector type but if it is mechanical then select should never feel loose when turning from cool to hot or the other way round. If selector is mechanical which means hot/cool valve is operated by some kind of rigid cable or steel rod and it is not uncommon for them to break at ...


1

Your engine does not have bleed screws on the radiator cooling system. To fully top up your system, fill the radiator with coolant. Run the engine at about 2500 RPM for a couple of minutes. With a large wet rag, soaked in water, to protect your hands from any steam, slowly but slowly undo the coolant filler cap. Top up again with coolant. Do this several ...


1

First check would be that the engine has sufficient coolant. (NB Do not remove the radiator cap when hot). Second check is that the engine is reaching operating temperature - does the temp gauage rise and show hot?. If these items pass inspection, then the very probable fault is with the AirCon module. When you turn the AirCon on, the module shuts off the ...


1

The location of the plug depends whether it was installed at the factory, by the dealer, or the third party. One of the most common places for the block heater plug on the third generation Ford Taurus (1996–1999) is the driver’s side opening in the lower part of the bumper (with spring-loaded cap): If it is not visible from the front (either as pictured, ...


1

I have this same problem, and I can tell you exactly what it is. GM vehicles use the coolant DEX-COOL, which is the purple color coolant. In the impala's if the coolant hasn't been changed for a while the dex-cool will leave deposits, or get thick is easier way to think about it. When it runs through your heater core, that silt like deposit will clog the ...


1

Possible stuck thermostat. The "normal" indication on factory temperature gauges cover a huge range. My Eclipse has a factory gauge and an aftermarket gauge. The factory gauge settles in at "normal" for a 160-200 degree range (normal temp is 185). At 160 the car barely makes any heat in the cabin, at 185 it's got decent heat, and at 200 it can light your ...


1

Another option that you could look into is getting an engine block heater fitted. Essentially, you plug those into a wall outlet and they warm up the coolant which both helps with cold starts if you're in a cold climate, and you should get warm air out of the heater fairly quickly compared to a car without a block heater.


1

Your heater, like most cars, works from the heater core. It sounds like your thermostat is opening up if you can get air for a minute, but it goes back off. The thermostat may be closing again, or there me be a blockage in the heater core. If you're wanting to try replacing parts, I would start with the thermostat first. They're usually pretty cheap, and ...


1

I'd vote heater core issue first. If the heater core is clogged you might not be getting enough hot coolant through to get significant heat after the coolant cools down to a normal temp. The other option on some cars is that the thermostat control itself isn't working properly this would be more likely if the car has a digital thermostat and the control ...


1

You could check the temperature of the hoses going to and from the heater core from the engine side of the firewall when the vehicle is warm and with the heater on. If both hoses are warm, then you are getting coolant flow through the heater core and your problem is likely inside the vehicle with the air control flaps, possibly the foam seal has come loose ...



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