Hot answers tagged

8

You are correct that the only extra energy consumed is the electricity used by the blower fan to move the warmed air. In the grand scheme of things the extra fuel required to generate that electricity is miniscule. The coolant is circulated regardless of the heater setting. Moving the selector to cool or warm merely directs all the air over the heater core ...


8

This is normal behavior. The A/C system is turned on to dehumidify the air, which causes the windshield to defog. Without it, your breath would freeze on the inside of the windshield and cause further issues. EDIT: Please note Bob Cross' comments below. I found instructions on the Honda Tech Forum which is supposed to give you full manual control over ...


7

As for the blower only working on max, that screams resistor pack. It's usually in the passenger foot well near the blower motor itself. Sounds like it's held in by two 8mm bolts in your case. Shouldn't be too terrible of a job, but you might want to avoid it if you've got back or neck problems. I usually put the seat back down as far as it will go and ...


7

Check the coolant temperature if you can (if it's an OBD-II car, some readers can give you coolant temperature). If you've got a coolant temp gauge, see if it looks any lower at all (most are pretty hard to read though, one tiny tick down can be a HUGE difference in coolant temperature). I suspect a failed thermostat that's sticking open. I had that ...


7

Here's a nice tip: if you turn up the heat in your car, it helps lower the operating temperature of your engine. Sometimes by as much as 10%. Not a problem when you're driving around in icy cold weather, but if your car is overheating, turning on the heat, opening the windows and putting the blower on full could save your engine from popping a gasket. If ...


5

It takes a long time for the heat gauge to register as anything but cold, about 10-15 minutes. This is almost definitely a stuck open thermostat. The engine should reach operation temperature within 10 minutes, meaning middle of the gauge. You should see it start moving up within about 5 minutes


5

Several Possibilities Low Coolant Level Partially plugged up heater core Partially obstructed heater valve Weak water pump


5

Does your car overheat too? If so, you could have a faulty thermostat, an air pocket in your cooling system or maybe even a leak somewhere. My truck's heat would only work while I was driving, then stopped working altogether while the engine started to overheat. I changed the thermostat, then the heat would blow hot/cold/hot/cold, I didn't realize you had ...


5

It turns out the problem is pretty common with 3.5L Impalas. For some reason these engines lose coolant. Some blame is placed on head gaskets, some blame Dex-Cool. What ever the cause, refilling via the overflow jug can leave an air pocket in the cooling system. The cure is to fill via the pressure cap right to the top. Recheck the level after several ...


5

If you mean the rear defrosting wires in your rear window, you should be able to turn it on immediately as it's electrically based. If it's making a noise, I suspect it's the circuit breaker that automatically turns it off based on heat, and you should look into replacing it. What make/model is it? If, alternatively, you have some sort of auxiliary/rear ...


5

If the thermostat is stuck open, you would get the symptoms you describe. A thermostat stuck closed will cause overheating.


4

It looks an awful lot like you have diagnosed all of the really hard problems and come up negative. I wonder if you have a simple mechanical problem: is the linkage sound between the hot / cold selector and the flapper valve that forces air past the heater core. From what I hear, the foam around the flapper is also prone to disintegration in humid ...


4

The cheapest way to do so, would be to add something like this aftermarket accessory. Looking for any in-dash options would likely be more expensive.


3

You most likely have air trapped in the cooling system. The air needs to be burped out. The method varies by make ,model, year etc. Due to variation between models can you tell us what country the car was made for?


3

Hopefully your mechanic would pressure test the water pump before replacing it to determine if it's really bad. Having no heat is usually a symptom of a stuck open thermostat, but if that was the case, your temp gauge would not indicate hot...maybe a clogged heater core? Did your heater core get flushed? That wouldn't explain the temp gauge reading hot, ...


3

The heat problem sounds like poor coolant circulation, possibly due to low fluid level or partial clogging.


3

If the fan is blowing, but no hot air is coming out that means that no hot water is making it into the heater core. I can think of 3 reasons for this, each with a different solution. First, and easiest to check: make sure that there's enough coolant in the car. If it's low, there may not be enough fluid to circulate through the core. Second, the valve ...


3

How cold is it where you are? A lower radiator hose wouldn't do much for you as it doesn't hold very much water and water tends to not change temperature easily.


3

As far as I understand it, your pollen filter is filthy and should be cleaned or replaced.


3

It depends on the vehicle, why it is being left, and how it is prepared before being left. If it's a vehicle that's in reasonably regular use, then I'd recommend making sure it's used at least once every week or so, and is driven far enough for the engine to get up to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run is better than nothing ...


3

If you haven't done this already, check your antifreeze levels of your overflow and radiator when cool. Make sure both are full. Often times, there can be an air lock preventing antifreeze from circulating through the heater core. I normally leave the coolant cap off and jack up the vehicle in the front after starting the vehicle and letting it warm up ...


3

You need to purge your cooling system. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack or ramps. Driving up a sidewalk works too. With the engine cool (when you touch it it should be cold): Remove the radiator cap. Run the engine. Turn on the heater. Accelerate the engine to 1500-2000RPM. You will see the coolant level go down and/or bubbles. Pour in some new ...


3

I'm in general agreement with Ben. Cooling fan not working. The description of high vehicle speed = okay and low speed not means your fan isn't working for you. This could be a problem with fan controller, fan motor or temp sender used to turn on fan. Note, the fan shrouds matter big! Ensure they are sealed off to radiator correctly. Please check the ...


3

I would check the water pump, it sounds like the blades may have corroded away. From your description it certainly sounds like the water isn't circulating.


2

Had similar issue in Skoda Felicia (which is much like an older Golf) I own. Check these steps: Close the salon heater. Start the car, wait till coolant gets to its normal temperature. Now open salon heater to the max and check if it readily blows hot air. The air will be hot at first, but quickly loose temperature. Close the salon heater, wait ~5-7min and ...


2

You very likely have a bad thermostat. Here are some similar questions that may provide some insight: Where'd my heat go? Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air? Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds In terms of your specific problem, I would check your engine temperature gauge: does the needle ever move up to its ...


2

First check would be that the engine has sufficient coolant. (NB Do not remove the radiator cap when hot). Second check is that the engine is reaching operating temperature - does the temp gauage rise and show hot?. If these items pass inspection, then the very probable fault is with the AirCon module. When you turn the AirCon on, the module shuts off the ...


2

I had this problem with an 2004 Caraven turned out to be a bad ground installed ground wire directly from Motor works fine now


2

Problem solved! The key was to finally locate the source of OBDII code PO 0171, left bank lean, which I realize was not part of my original question. Anyways, I found a leaky air hose connection between the manifold and the MAF, once I corrected it, the engine idle smoothed out and now we have heat as designed at idle.


2

Have you checked the coolant level? Possibly the thermostat. Also could be a plugged heater core or even air trapped in the cooling system.



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