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7

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


6

Do you have a Pulsar 220? If so, you probably don't want two full-blown headlights, if the electrical system on a 220 is anything like that of the 135LS. On my bike, the electricals can barely keep up with all the lights on, plus both signal lights blinking (unless I raise the idling speed). You should probably look into adding accessory lights, instead. ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


3

The Honda Shine does not have a high amperage output stator like a larger motorcycle, think goldwing. As Paulster2 so aptly put, less resistance in the wire the more amperage or 'flow' you get. Taking that into consideration. If you can increase the gauge of wire feeding your headlights you could go with your option number 2, which is to put a 60/55 ...


3

I wouldn't even remove it until the replacement arrives. The only thing which is broke is the Lexan cover. There would be no more of a reflection (or chance of it flashing someone in the eyes) than would be seen normally. Another reason is that any road debris which comes up has the chance of damaging something which would normally be protected by the ...


3

I wouldn't bother covering it. First reason is the lamp gets hot enough to ignite or melt any type of clear tape that you'd use. Second is that there is no need to protect the lamp assembly from damage, the replacement is a complete unit. It contains the lens, reflector and the housing. I would remove the lamp and socket. Cover the socket in a plastic bag so ...


3

I would bet the problem lies in the relay, which should be located under the hood. It should look something like this: Each of the high beams and low beams will have their own relay. The switch which is only used to energize the relay. The relay provides the power for the head lights. The underhood fuse box should look like this: On the underside of ...


3

I followed TDHofstetter's advice (partly) and I can now report that it is indeed quite effective. I wet-sanded with 600, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper (my local hardware store had nothing in between or finer). That removed the yellow discoloration and left the lenses smooth to the touch, but still a little cloudy. I then applied the Mother NuLens polish, ...


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


2

It was the bulbs. I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- both low beams go at the same time. My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or... One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works. The second one goes and you ...


2

Probably much cheaper solution to your problem could be more powerful light bulbs. I had same issue with Mitsubishi Galant EA0 and was considering xenons, but after some research I ended up changing bulbs to 100w "extra light" ones. These look like xenons, are much brighter and does not need any extra work or resources. Just to be more specific about the ...


2

Early Xenon light conversions were totally unsuitable for vehicle use because they did not form a distinct beam or focused pattern. Later kits include lamp assemblies which very much correct these faults. Xenon are used on dipped beams because of the time lag from turning them on and thier reaching operating luminosity. European law requires main beams to ...


2

A quick Google search resulted in this. I couldn't find the legend for it but I guess it should be fairly straightforward. It could be bad wiring, bring out the multi-meter! EDIT Here's a link to the COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL . It's in German, so you may need to use a translation service .


2

These days you do not bother with replacing the lens cover because it's a sealed unit. Just buy a whole new assembly from your favorite web parts supplier (eg. Amazon, Rockauto, eBay), local auto parts, or a Toyota dealer ($$$). Look for "Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Assembly" or similar for the make and year of your car. The genuine Toyota part will be ...


2

My suggestion is that the filament inside of the bulb is loose. When you rap on it, it reconnect briefly, which lights the bulb. It will continue to do this until it completely burns out. This will probably require a replacement bulb to fix.


2

Your headlights are a four headlight system. These are sealed beam headlights. Two of the bulbs are strictly for high-beam use (inside bulbs). Two of the headlights function for both hi/low beams (outside bulbs). In each of the hi/low bulbs, there are two separate filaments which work for either of the modes. What is going on with your headlights is the ...


1

If both headlights cease to work at the same time, this leads us to the idea that the fault is probably not in the bulbs, but in some part that is on a common path between the electrical supply and the lights. Some points you could take a look at are: Fuse! This is probably the easiest explanation. Take a look in your fuse box (often under the dash, ...


1

When looking at the car (and I think you have most of it already covered in your question): The leading edges are the most susceptible ... this would include any part of the front fascia The A-pillar and maybe the leading edge of the roof Any part of the side which when looking at it, dips in, then comes back out ... the part which comes back out is ...


1

Your 92 Explorer takes the type 9004 bulb. You should try replacing just one bulb first to see if the high beams come on for that bulb and if so, then replace the other one. Actually, what you can do is that while wearing gloves, remove one of the bulbs and inspect it. If one of its two filaments (wires) is broken, then definitely a bulb replacement will ...


1

There are a couple of possibilities here aside from a bad relay (which appears to have been ruled out by your tests): the light switch has gone bad (stays permanently on) there is an electrical short somewhere in the controller circuit (which the light switch controls) that is bypassing the light switch and always completing the circuit


1

Finally got a chance to mess around with it and confirmed an answer I found. All the blinker lights have to be connected in order for it to blink. Connected them all and now everything is working with the blinkers!


1

I've seen people cover their broken headlight with tape, and it makes me cringe. The tape can melt and end up being useless after just a few hours. It's best to go to a car repair shop to get it fixed, or in your situation, wait for the replacement.


1

If you just reach behind your headlight behind a rubber guard, there's a clip that holds your bulb inside, screwed in like a light bulb, as long as they are headlights and not fog lamps that you're talking about. It hooks and presses backwards, away from the headlight fixture, so you just press in and unhook it. With some cars there's things in the way. You ...


1

absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY. They perform different functions completely and are in now way related. Relay = Switch Ballast = Current Regulation A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit. I HIGHLY recommend you use ...


1

Relays are little micro-switches with electromagnetic actuators that make the mechanical action of switching. This electromagnet needs a continuous solid ground connection to work consistently. The ground leg on the relay relies on its pole connector to make complete connection to the ground circuit of the relay/fuse board that holds all these plugged in ...


1

This thread on a motorbike forum suggests that an H4 bulb will fit in an HS1 holder, but that the bike in their question has a plastic lens that could melt - yours may be the same? Does the alternator have enough power to run the higher-wattage bulb and recharge the battery? I would always use a relay when upgrading or adding lamps, Halogens work much ...


1

From what I see, the bulb is a 1157A. These are very standard bulbs and can be picked up most anywhere (Walmart, AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly's, etc). The "A" in the identification indicates it as an amber bulb. You can find the 1157 which is the same exact bulb without the amber tint.


1

Basically your headlamps are controlled by a computer. The Front Electronic Module (FEM) to be exact. The FEM grounds the headlamps when it wants to turn them on. This system was an early Multiplex design that reduced wire and total circuits where the modules communicate on a single serial line, now referred to as the CAN Bus (Controller Area Network). You ...


1

I think to pull a fuse is easy, as disconnect the battery. Anyway, I think some relay is broken. That will explain, why it flashing randomly. Turn the lights on and pull the relays under the dashboard one after another, until the light are off. Replace this relay ( shop or maybe you see the same one at another place).Hope, that will fix your issue.


1

I believe they are calling it the Outer Bumper Grill, Driver's Side .



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