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7

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


4

Do you have a Pulsar 220? If so, you probably don't want two full-blown headlights, if the electrical system on a 220 is anything like that of the 135LS. On my bike, the electricals can barely keep up with all the lights on, plus both signal lights blinking (unless I raise the idling speed). You should probably look into adding accessory lights, instead. ...


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...


3

I wouldn't even remove it until the replacement arrives. The only thing which is broke is the Lexan cover. There would be no more of a reflection (or chance of it flashing someone in the eyes) than would be seen normally. Another reason is that any road debris which comes up has the chance of damaging something which would normally be protected by the ...


3

I wouldn't bother covering it. First reason is the lamp gets hot enough to ignite or melt any type of clear tape that you'd use. Second is that there is no need to protect the lamp assembly from damage, the replacement is a complete unit. It contains the lens, reflector and the housing. I would remove the lamp and socket. Cover the socket in a plastic bag so ...


3

I followed TDHofstetter's advice (partly) and I can now report that it is indeed quite effective. I wet-sanded with 600, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper (my local hardware store had nothing in between or finer). That removed the yellow discoloration and left the lenses smooth to the touch, but still a little cloudy. I then applied the Mother NuLens polish, ...


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


2

As I said previously, a set of Osram bulbs would help a lot. Further to that, your headlights may just need a nice polish. Some people try to get real fancy with products and methods, but what it really comes down to is that you need to use various grades of sandpaper (from rough to very fine) and finish off with rubbing compound and/or liquid polish (I use ...


2

I would bet the problem lies in the relay, which should be located under the hood. It should look something like this: Each of the high beams and low beams will have their own relay. The switch which is only used to energize the relay. The relay provides the power for the head lights. The underhood fuse box should look like this: On the underside of ...


2

The Honda Shine does not have a high amperage output stator like a larger motorcycle, think goldwing. As Paulster2 so aptly put, less resistance in the wire the more amperage or 'flow' you get. Taking that into consideration. If you can increase the gauge of wire feeding your headlights you could go with your option number 2, which is to put a 60/55 ...


2

It was the bulbs. I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- both low beams go at the same time. My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or... One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works. The second one goes and you ...


2

Probably much cheaper solution to your problem could be more powerful light bulbs. I had same issue with Mitsubishi Galant EA0 and was considering xenons, but after some research I ended up changing bulbs to 100w "extra light" ones. These look like xenons, are much brighter and does not need any extra work or resources. Just to be more specific about the ...


2

Early Xenon light conversions were totally unsuitable for vehicle use because they did not form a distinct beam or focused pattern. Later kits include lamp assemblies which very much correct these faults. Xenon are used on dipped beams because of the time lag from turning them on and thier reaching operating luminosity. European law requires main beams to ...


1

A quick Google search resulted in this. I couldn't find the legend for it but I guess it should be fairly straightforward. It could be bad wiring, bring out the multi-meter! EDIT Here's a link to the COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL . It's in German, so you may need to use a translation service .


1

These days you do not bother with replacing the lens cover because it's a sealed unit. Just buy a whole new assembly from your favorite web parts supplier (eg. Amazon, Rockauto, eBay), local auto parts, or a Toyota dealer ($$$). Look for "Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Assembly" or similar for the make and year of your car. The genuine Toyota part will be ...


1

If you just reach behind your headlight behind a rubber guard, there's a clip that holds your bulb inside, screwed in like a light bulb, as long as they are headlights and not fog lamps that you're talking about. It hooks and presses backwards, away from the headlight fixture, so you just press in and unhook it. With some cars there's things in the way. You ...


1

absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY. They perform different functions completely and are in now way related. Relay = Switch Ballast = Current Regulation A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit. I HIGHLY recommend you use ...


1

Relays are little micro-switches with electromagnetic actuators that make the mechanical action of switching. This electromagnet needs a continuous solid ground connection to work consistently. The ground leg on the relay relies on its pole connector to make complete connection to the ground circuit of the relay/fuse board that holds all these plugged in ...


1

This thread on a motorbike forum suggests that an H4 bulb will fit in an HS1 holder, but that the bike in their question has a plastic lens that could melt - yours may be the same? Does the alternator have enough power to run the higher-wattage bulb and recharge the battery? I would always use a relay when upgrading or adding lamps, Halogens work much ...


1

From what I see, the bulb is a 1157A. These are very standard bulbs and can be picked up most anywhere (Walmart, AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly's, etc). The "A" in the identification indicates it as an amber bulb. You can find the 1157 which is the same exact bulb without the amber tint.


1

Basically your headlamps are controlled by a computer. The Front Electronic Module (FEM) to be exact. The FEM grounds the headlamps when it wants to turn them on. This system was an early Multiplex design that reduced wire and total circuits where the modules communicate on a single serial line, now referred to as the CAN Bus (Controller Area Network). You ...


1

I think to pull a fuse is easy, as disconnect the battery. Anyway, I think some relay is broken. That will explain, why it flashing randomly. Turn the lights on and pull the relays under the dashboard one after another, until the light are off. Replace this relay ( shop or maybe you see the same one at another place).Hope, that will fix your issue.


1

I believe they are calling it the Outer Bumper Grill, Driver's Side .


1

I don't think I'd be very concerned about the "sealing wipe" not drying. As Juann pointed out, your conditions seem to be good for drying, so either it's as dry as it'll get or else something's interfering with it drying. For future reference, you can use ordinary car wax after wet-sanding with 2000-grit sandpaper. The car wax MUST be a "100% carnauba" ...


1

It is worth making sure that the bulbs are getting their full voltage - Halogen lamps drop off in brightness significantly as voltage drops. Many cars of that age didn't have relayed headlamps, and so as the wiring has aged, it's resistance has increased, and the performance of the headlamps will suffer - fitting relays close to the lamps with new, good ...



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