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14

Sure you could put a bigger battery in .What may happen is that the total proposed draw is too much for the dynamo and it will go flat.Even if it does not go flat because your appliance usage patterns are intermittent you will get a lower battery life because of the constant cycling .If dealing with the charging system is too hard or too expensive then ...


12

I think you hit it. Cost, most of the LED headlights are made to just pack as many LED as possible into the H4 package as possible, but a small percentage of them are actually designed to mimic the H4 fillament. Most of the cheap LED bulbs aren't DOT certified, so look for the certified ones, they give you better performance. I'd recommend a brand, but ...


9

Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure. Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...


9

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


7

absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY. They perform different functions completely and are in no way related. Relay = Switch Ballast = Current Regulation A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit. I HIGHLY recommend you use those. ...


6

That's actually standard Audi & VW behaviour, not an electrical problem.


6

My car doesn't have this "Max Heating" setting, so my experience may not help you, but I have two reasons why I always turn the lights on while defrosting the car: the extra load on the engine actually provides more heat so the interior heats up faster, because the engine revs harder to keep the battery output voltage at the same level the lights being on ...


6

Do you have a Pulsar 220? If so, you probably don't want two full-blown headlights, if the electrical system on a 220 is anything like that of the 135LS. On my bike, the electricals can barely keep up with all the lights on, plus both signal lights blinking (unless I raise the idling speed). You should probably look into adding accessory lights, instead. ...


6

It really looks like it's down to the switch, if the high beams work normally (Not just using flash to pass) and both low beams quit at the same time, and you are positive the bulbs are good. The one thing that can fail that would take out both low beams is the switch. Everything in yellow below is good based on your description of what works. The pink ...


6

Sounds like the bulb socket is corroded. You could try spraying it with contact cleaner, or trim an emery board to fit and giving a couple of passes with that to remove the corrosion. With any cleaning method, I'd recommend putting a little petroleum jelly on the bulb contacts to try to prevent any further corrosion.


6

I think there might be a regulatory component that effects stated brightness I found in CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) 49 The maximum wattage at 12.8 volts (design voltage): 65 watts on upper beam, and 55 watts on lower beam. BUT...there are some caveats to this related to headlamp type and additional components to the commercial regulations which ...


5

Unless the lenses themselves are badly damaged, I would try to polish them up first. You can buy kits with most of the necessary polishes etc from a lot of detailing supply companies- the one I have experience with is the Meguiar's kit that comes with plastic polish and a polishing "mop" for use in your drill. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape ...


5

Not by any amount you can measure, no. The power consumed by the bulbs are such a small fraction of the total that you would not notice it, unless you are adding multiple spotlights or going all retro-mod, maybe, like this pic from the Telegraph:


5

Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


5

The main purpose for this is so other drivers can see your turn signal. The LED lights are so intense, they do not allow the oncoming driver to be able to see the turn signal. By turning the LEDs off, it becomes readily apparent.


5

I would not want to increase load to your dynamo. I'm skeptical that you actually have that type of charging system but can't back my claim. IF it is a dynamo then I would do something in order to add your accessory lighting load. - Replace your current headlight with an LED version, it will consume less electricity and give you room to add the accessory ...


5

As Autistic and Chenmunka say, if you want to increase the electrical power you're using (by having a higher-rated headlamp), you'll need to generate more power - by having a bigger alternator or dynamo/generator. Simply fitting a bigger battery won't help, as it'll still discharge all the time you're using more power than you're generating. It sounds like ...


5

Most vehicles not using an LED headlight have multiple filaments in the bulb. These frequently do burn out independently. Low beam is also the most used filament, and likely to burn out first. Given no fuses are blown or wires loose, it's most likely just a bad bulb. Bulbs are generally pretty cheap, a few dollars, so it's worth just replacing it just in ...


5

The biggest issue with high-intensity LED's is heat dissipation. Heat is an LED's #1 enemy, regardless of the LED package. High-powered LED's that put out about 2 to 5 watts of light each (9 times more than the power they consume) need be be epoxied to an aluminum or copper heat sink, maybe even fan cooled. But I see many LED street-lights with LED's burned ...


4

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


4

I answered this same question here: Kia Soul aftermarket headlights bottom line: HID retrofit = bad idea unless your projectors are made for them. You WILL blind oncoming drivers. If HID is an option from the factory for the Sebring, I would get those housings rather than retrofitting your existing halogen setup. Here is a good (though exhaustive) read ...


4

A few rules of thumb that apply to the Kia Soul as well as most other cars. Avoid HID/Xenon headlight retrofit kits unless they're part of an entirely new assembly with optics designed specifically for HID usage. In almost all cases, adding an HID retrofit kit generates a) dangerous glare for oncoming traffic and b) does not properly illuminate the road ...


4

Check you power lines voltage at range of revs, it could be that your voltage stabilizer is malfunctioning and given higher voltage than it should. I had similar case with my Skoda, the lights (cockpit, headlights and everything else) would glow lighter the more revs motor did. It was noticeable to the eye at night. Lightbulbs are sensitive to voltage and ...


4

Although the link shows how to remove the condensation it doesn't deal with the cause.The seal has failed and that what is allowing moisture to accumulate.After drying reseal with 3M window seal.It comes on roll and sticks to about anything.Wrap a bead around the light assembly where the lens is glued the housing.Also check the seal where the bulb socket ...


4

The reason the lens clouds is that the lens is plastic and the UV rays from the sun cloud the lens'.Way back when, the government had a law that required the headlights to be standardized. Since the only lights available were sealed beam lamps the bulb,lens an reflector were changed when the bulb burned out. Since all cars used one of three lamps(hi beam,low ...


4

Your single bulb has two filaments, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. If you look at the back of the headlight bulb, there's three prongs. One is for the low beam, one is for the hi beam, and the last is the shared ground. The low beam and hi beam need to be turned on and off independently, so you need two relays. (image source ...


4

Part of the projector design requires a specific bulb shape and type to work effectively (and legally - most countries require the beam pattern to meet regulations!) Using a D4S in an adapter would not give you the correct pattern, so I would definitely not recommend doing it! I did look online to see if I could find adapters, just in case someone was ...


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...



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