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9

Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure. Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


6

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


5

That's actually standard Audi & VW behaviour, not an electrical problem.


5

Unless the lenses themselves are badly damaged, I would try to polish them up first. You can buy kits with most of the necessary polishes etc from a lot of detailing supply companies- the one I have experience with is the Meguiar's kit that comes with plastic polish and a polishing "mop" for use in your drill. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape ...


5

Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...


5

My car doesn't have this "Max Heating" setting, so my experience may not help you, but I have two reasons why I always turn the lights on while defrosting the car: the extra load on the engine actually provides more heat so the interior heats up faster, because the engine revs harder to keep the battery output voltage at the same level the lights being on ...


4

A few rules of thumb that apply to the Kia Soul as well as most other cars. Avoid HID/Xenon headlight retrofit kits unless they're part of an entirely new assembly with optics designed specifically for HID usage. In almost all cases, adding an HID retrofit kit generates a) dangerous glare for oncoming traffic and b) does not properly illuminate the road ...


4

Check you power lines voltage at range of revs, it could be that your voltage stabilizer is malfunctioning and given higher voltage than it should. I had similar case with my Skoda, the lights (cockpit, headlights and everything else) would glow lighter the more revs motor did. It was noticeable to the eye at night. Lightbulbs are sensitive to voltage and ...


4

The reason the lens clouds is that the lens is plastic and the UV rays from the sun cloud the lens'.Way back when, the government had a law that required the headlights to be standardized. Since the only lights available were sealed beam lamps the bulb,lens an reflector were changed when the bulb burned out. Since all cars used one of three lamps(hi beam,low ...


4

Although the link shows how to remove the condensation it doesn't deal with the cause.The seal has failed and that what is allowing moisture to accumulate.After drying reseal with 3M window seal.It comes on roll and sticks to about anything.Wrap a bead around the light assembly where the lens is glued the housing.Also check the seal where the bulb socket ...


4

Part of the projector design requires a specific bulb shape and type to work effectively (and legally - most countries require the beam pattern to meet regulations!) Using a D4S in an adapter would not give you the correct pattern, so I would definitely not recommend doing it! I did look online to see if I could find adapters, just in case someone was ...


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...


3

There are two designs vented and non-vented. In the vented design the vents actually help prevent the condensation. Make sure they are clear, you may even have to add additional holes to create more venting. See this article for more information


3

If you have water in the headlight housing, or getting into the connectors, this will cause the bulbs to fail prematurely. Also, if the headlights are not mounted securely the bulbs may be subject to more vibration than normal, shortening their life.


3

No - with HIDs, the colour temperature is very well defined (after the breaking in, as Petro mentioned) so if you have 10k's, replacing one with another 10k will very rapidly be the same tone as its pair. (I looked into this when I had one die, as the cost for a new one on my car was £600 - the answer was quite important :-) )


3

Similarly to NoCarrier, I answered a similar question on Upgrading a Jeep Wrangler to HID lights. In my experience, those HID lights that "blind you" are the ones done aftermarket and I don't believe they're legal. If your friend has a factory kit, you will likely notice that the lights have a very strong cut-off point, they really only illuminate the road ...


3

I answered this same question here: Kia Soul aftermarket headlights bottom line: HID retrofit = bad idea unless your projectors are made for them. You WILL blind oncoming drivers. If HID is an option from the factory for the Sebring, I would get those housings rather than retrofitting your existing halogen setup. Here is a good (though exhaustive) read ...


3

Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying "The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!" The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much. I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from ...


3

The headlight wiring is protected from being overheated (a short,overcurrent) by a circuit breaker. It operates like a circuit breaker in your house except it has an auto reset feature. The clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting. With your admitted limited knowledge this is a job for a pro.


3

Turning off your headlights won't make any difference to your battery, but at idle, you may find your "Max Heating" setting works better without them on. The reason for this is that your alternator can only put out so much current at any given RPM. So, using completely made up numbers, let's say your Alternator can push out 20 Amps of current at 800 Revs ...


3

The all of the "super white" headlights (which look blue-ish compared to normal headlights) are safety hazards for multiple reasons: They have a much greater effect of blinding oncoming drivers -- and, if you have them adjusted improperly or use your hi-beams at inappropriate times, drivers in front of you two. The "white" light produced by these ...


3

I'll expand on one of cinelli's comments - why not fix the cause rather than the symptom? If you've got 6v on the high-beam feed when the switch is set to dip, this suggests to me there is a problem with the switch - and I'd be worried that it might be causing other hidden problems. For example, if the lamps aren't relayed (as is the case with a lot of ...


3

A poor ground will give you the symptoms you are seeing. A wiring diagram will show you that there is a ground but not where it is located. The diagram I found shows a frame ground that is a black wire. I would start by looking for the black wire on the offending headlight and follow it away from the light as far as you can. If you are lucky at some point ...


3

The bulb modules could actually be bad, despite both filaments coming on in high beam mode. Pull the connector at each bulb, there will be three wires: tan, green and black. The black is ground, tan is low and green is high. Make sure there is power on the tan wire when the headlights are on and the high/low switch is set to low. If the tan wire is hot, ...


2

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


2

Have the lenses become cloudy? This can happen over time and you can buy kits to polish and clear them up. If they're not cloudy, check how many volts are getting to the lights themselves with a volt meter. I'm not sure how the circuit in your car works, but if it doesn't use relays to power the lights, your light switch can be absorbing some of the power.


2

No, assuming they are the same as xenon lights bulbs, you don't have to. The only thing you will notice is a difference in color while the bulb breaks in, again assuming they are the same as xenon. We only changed them when they were out on BMWs.


2

I'd get a multimeter and check though the circuit - as Brian says the point at which the current is switched is a common failure point - either in the switch or the relay if one is fitted. I've never heard of a body modulator and can't see how one would be fitted in a headlamp circuit!


2

If you can get a copy of the electrical diagrams, you can trace them through and start testing each piece involved in the circuit. I had a similar problem with a Mitsubishi once, and it ended up being a bad headlight stalk... The low beam portion had failed somehow without impairing the high beam or parking light functions!



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