Hot answers tagged

9

Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure. Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...


9

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


6

Do you have a Pulsar 220? If so, you probably don't want two full-blown headlights, if the electrical system on a 220 is anything like that of the 135LS. On my bike, the electricals can barely keep up with all the lights on, plus both signal lights blinking (unless I raise the idling speed). You should probably look into adding accessory lights, instead. ...


6

It really looks like it's down to the switch, if the high beams work normally (Not just using flash to pass) and both low beams quit at the same time, and you are positive the bulbs are good. The one thing that can fail that would take out both low beams is the switch. Everything in yellow below is good based on your description of what works. The pink ...


5

Unless the lenses themselves are badly damaged, I would try to polish them up first. You can buy kits with most of the necessary polishes etc from a lot of detailing supply companies- the one I have experience with is the Meguiar's kit that comes with plastic polish and a polishing "mop" for use in your drill. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape ...


5

That's actually standard Audi & VW behaviour, not an electrical problem.


5

Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...


5

My car doesn't have this "Max Heating" setting, so my experience may not help you, but I have two reasons why I always turn the lights on while defrosting the car: the extra load on the engine actually provides more heat so the interior heats up faster, because the engine revs harder to keep the battery output voltage at the same level the lights being on ...


5

absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY. They perform different functions completely and are in no way related. Relay = Switch Ballast = Current Regulation A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit. I HIGHLY recommend you use those. ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


5

The main purpose for this is so other drivers can see your turn signal. The LED lights are so intense, they do not allow the oncoming driver to be able to see the turn signal. By turning the LEDs off, it becomes readily apparent.


4

I answered this same question here: Kia Soul aftermarket headlights bottom line: HID retrofit = bad idea unless your projectors are made for them. You WILL blind oncoming drivers. If HID is an option from the factory for the Sebring, I would get those housings rather than retrofitting your existing halogen setup. Here is a good (though exhaustive) read ...


4

A few rules of thumb that apply to the Kia Soul as well as most other cars. Avoid HID/Xenon headlight retrofit kits unless they're part of an entirely new assembly with optics designed specifically for HID usage. In almost all cases, adding an HID retrofit kit generates a) dangerous glare for oncoming traffic and b) does not properly illuminate the road ...


4

The reason the lens clouds is that the lens is plastic and the UV rays from the sun cloud the lens'.Way back when, the government had a law that required the headlights to be standardized. Since the only lights available were sealed beam lamps the bulb,lens an reflector were changed when the bulb burned out. Since all cars used one of three lamps(hi beam,low ...


4

Check you power lines voltage at range of revs, it could be that your voltage stabilizer is malfunctioning and given higher voltage than it should. I had similar case with my Skoda, the lights (cockpit, headlights and everything else) would glow lighter the more revs motor did. It was noticeable to the eye at night. Lightbulbs are sensitive to voltage and ...


4

Although the link shows how to remove the condensation it doesn't deal with the cause.The seal has failed and that what is allowing moisture to accumulate.After drying reseal with 3M window seal.It comes on roll and sticks to about anything.Wrap a bead around the light assembly where the lens is glued the housing.Also check the seal where the bulb socket ...


4

Not by any amount you can measure, no. The power consumed by the bulbs are such a small fraction of the total that you would not notice it, unless you are adding multiple spotlights or going all retro-mod, maybe, like this pic from the Telegraph:


4

Part of the projector design requires a specific bulb shape and type to work effectively (and legally - most countries require the beam pattern to meet regulations!) Using a D4S in an adapter would not give you the correct pattern, so I would definitely not recommend doing it! I did look online to see if I could find adapters, just in case someone was ...


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...


4

Yes there is, but first a little story to explain why the headlights are going yellow/cloudy so quickly. Any plastic headlight lens will yellow through exposure to UV radiation (which the Sun happens to have buckets of). Brand-new plastic lenses from the factory will invariably have a protective coating that is designed to deflect away much of the UV ...


4

H11 Bulb connectors are readily available from Ebay sellers, but will no doubt be available from an automotive shop. They usually come with short wires fitted, so you will need some way of connecting it to you existing wires after chopping off the old connector. The best way of doing this is soldering and heat shrinking some insulation. An alternative to ...


4

I would not want to increase load to your dynamo. I'm skeptical that you actually have that type of charging system but can't back my claim. IF it is a dynamo then I would do something in order to add your accessory lighting load. - Replace your current headlight with an LED version, it will consume less electricity and give you room to add the accessory ...


3

There are two designs vented and non-vented. In the vented design the vents actually help prevent the condensation. Make sure they are clear, you may even have to add additional holes to create more venting. See this article for more information


3

My 2002 Ford Escape 'eats' drivers side bulbs. Turns out the connector to the bulb is making poor contact. When the bulb 'burns out', odds are if I wiggle the connector, it starts working again. That means its a bad connector. Eventually, I'll replace it. But I do recommend electrical contact lubricant to keep the next one from corroding. -Mike


3

If you have water in the headlight housing, or getting into the connectors, this will cause the bulbs to fail prematurely. Also, if the headlights are not mounted securely the bulbs may be subject to more vibration than normal, shortening their life.


3

I'd get a multimeter and check though the circuit - as Brian says the point at which the current is switched is a common failure point - either in the switch or the relay if one is fitted. I've never heard of a body modulator and can't see how one would be fitted in a headlamp circuit!


3

If you can get a copy of the electrical diagrams, you can trace them through and start testing each piece involved in the circuit. I had a similar problem with a Mitsubishi once, and it ended up being a bad headlight stalk... The low beam portion had failed somehow without impairing the high beam or parking light functions!


3

Similarly to NoCarrier, I answered a similar question on Upgrading a Jeep Wrangler to HID lights. In my experience, those HID lights that "blind you" are the ones done aftermarket and I don't believe they're legal. If your friend has a factory kit, you will likely notice that the lights have a very strong cut-off point, they really only illuminate the road ...


3

No - with HIDs, the colour temperature is very well defined (after the breaking in, as Petro mentioned) so if you have 10k's, replacing one with another 10k will very rapidly be the same tone as its pair. (I looked into this when I had one die, as the cost for a new one on my car was £600 - the answer was quite important :-) )



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