Hot answers tagged

16

Standard digital multimeters can measure current and help you identify what in your vehicle is consuming your battery's juice. Get an electrical diagram of your vehicle and try to narrow it down by doing current measurements in the various major paths of flow. When your car is off, no (or only trace) current should be flowing. Every time the path of ...


14

Find your fuse box diagram. With everything off, pull fuses out one by one and use a multimeter on the fuse socket to measure the current drawn through that circuit. That will give you some indication as to what is causing the power drain.


11

It's not a concern really other than being annoying if in fact the brakes are new. It's not a difficult fix; just putting disk brake quite on the back of the pads should solve the problem. It should have been done when they did the brake job, so I would take it back to the dealer where you bought it and ask them to fix it. At my place it would be done at no ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


5

Four things come to mind. The first two could be a result of mileage or age. The axle seals may be leaking gear oil on to the brake shoes. The oil will make the shoes grabby (if that is a word). The effect is that the shoes tend to grab or stick when applied. If the leak is slight, it may not have been noticed when the shoes were changed. Over time it ...


5

It could also be that the dealer didn't apply brake grease. Brake Grease does NOT go between the pads and the rotors (where the friction occurs that makes the brakes work), but between the pads and the brake cylinder inside the caliper. It also goes on the little metal clips that are on the side of the brake pads. Often, squeaking in brakes is caused by ...


5

Looking at the routing it may work with a shorter belt. But it may not have enough tension to drive the water pump without slipping. Dorman may make an A/C delete pulley/bracket. Which would keep the original belt routing and length.


5

The height from the ground to the bottom of the ball will be determined by the trailer you're pulling, not the car. The height of the trailer is such that the trailers hitch is horizontal with the ground, while the hitch receiver on all vehicles is attached to two points on the frame of the car, so the receiver height is fixed for the car - e.g my Subaru ...


4

In addition to an unexpected electrical load, as covered by Captain Claptrap, there are other things to check. The two biggest killers of lead/acid batteries are overcharging and vibration. Unless you have the equipment and the skills to use it properly (in which case you probably wouldn't be asking) I suggest you get the charging system checked by an ...


4

It is likely that something has been pushed out of alignment during the repair - you need to inspect for things in that line of thought - look for places where parts have been rebolted/tightened and they are not exactly as they were or something that has been twisted etc. I make the assumption you are speaking of the latch mechanicals - which are often ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

This blog is a nice reference: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html It explains how to check: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes ...


4

Same problem but another forum suggested that the key in their 98 GC can be removed one click past the off position in the ACC on position. Sure enough, checked mine and found the batt drain was due to the key switch being left in ACC and then being removed. Key shouldn't come out there but it does. I screwed a small metal bracket to stop the key switch ...


3

A lot depends on the insurance company and where you live. I have had it go both ways. In one case they offered a check, but wanted the vehicle. In another case they paid me and were happy I didn't make them tow it away. Be aware that laws vary from state to state and it may be a hassle to reregister the vehicle as it will have a salvage title. This may ...


3

The 4.0L is generally a very robust engine so I think the problem is with the ancillaries. Here's what I would look at: Fuel pressure. If the car feels like you're running out of gas, it might be that the fuel pump isn't supplying enough fuel or there's another problem with the fuel system like a leaking injector. Has the fuel mileage been suffering lately?...


3

Wow I can't believe the basics are totally not listed here. First of all, since you know its draining the battery, disconnect the battery, charge it, then check to see if it is still draining on its own. Saying that for anyone that hasn't tried that first to double check the battery itself. Then there are the basics. The alternator check: you can use a ...


3

I know this is an old forum, but i need to comment. i have a 1998 jeep grand cherokee laredo that i bought for my daughter to use. the battery was brand new when i got the jeep, but soon after purchasing it i would find if it sat a few days without driving it the battery would be completely dead. i searched online, asked my mechanic friends and didnt hear of ...


3

The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always ...


3

The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See: http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.


3

It sounds as if the intake manifold is not sealed properly. The large intake leak will force the engine to redline instantly once started.


3

Going only from the information here, I'd say there were two issues going on. Firstly, I'd say that the brake job was done incorrectly/badly. A squeaky noise when you apply the brakes is often because the mechanic didn't put any copperslip or similar hi temperature grease on the back of the brake pads (not the bit touching the caliper!). The 'not stopping ...


2

I found this: http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1l50u-does-dtc-12-memory-controller-cleared-within.html Which seems to confirm that 12 just means the battery was disconnected and that you should always see 55. 21 should not come up unless there is a problem, because the sensor should be able to detect rich or lean. So check/replace O2 is the correct ...


2

Some brake pads are designed to squeal when the pad material is worn down to a certain point, the idea being that the squealing will warn the driver that new pads are needed. This isn't your problem, because your brakes are new, but it is one answer to the general question, "Should I be concerned about squealing brakes?"


2

You need to stop what's getting in the HVAC system that's stopping up the drain, most likely dirt, debris, and leaves. These are entering they system through the fresh air intake of the HVAC system located in the cowl area. You can see the fresh air inlet below, anything small enough to get through that grate will eventually end up in your AC drain. ...


2

However you hooked up that alarm, disconnect it, and make sure it is good and disconnected. If that alarm was what drained your original battery in the first place, it's probably still not working and draining your battery and shorting out your electrical system. Then, take that new battery right back to autozone and convince them to trade it for a new one, ...


2

What happened is there was a small amount of water in the casing of the headlight, due to a sealing breaking loose. I drained the water, sealed the crack, and the headlight has been working fine ever since.


2

I have found that many times a U-joint in the early stages of failure will still pass the hand powered tug and twist test. It may be one or several damaged rollers that cause the clicking. The only sure method is to disconnect the suspect shaft and pivot the joint by hand to feel for any binding. You can try to isolate which joint is bad by driving slowly ...


2

It looks as though the Grand Cherokee has a clutch fan. If so, this could be locking up and causing the noise. When fully locked, it can make quite a racket as well as putting a drag on the engine.


2

Check the master cylinder fluid level. If it is low or empty you have a leak. If the reservoir is full the likely cause is a bad master cylinder. To find the leak fill the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal several times. you should see it drip. depending on where the leak is you may have to crawl under the vehicle and look for a wet spot or stain.


2

Certainly the issue would probably have to do with the last change made to the system. I'm sure this doesn't escape you. You will need to test for parasitic drain if you want to nail the issue down. If you are unfamiliar with using a multimeter, here is a general howto on it's use and various functions. Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto Here is ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible