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9

It's not a concern really other than being annoying if in fact the brakes are new. It's not a difficult fix; just putting disk brake quite on the back of the pads should solve the problem. It should have been done when they did the brake job, so I would take it back to the dealer where you bought it and ask them to fix it. At my place it would be done at no ...


9

Standard digital multimeters can measure current and help you identify what in your vehicle is consuming your battery's juice. Get an electrical diagram of your vehicle and try to narrow it down by doing current measurements in the various major paths of flow. When your car is off, no (or only trace) current should be flowing. Every time the path of ...


7

New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing ...


5

Four things come to mind. The first two could be a result of mileage or age. The axle seals may be leaking gear oil on to the brake shoes. The oil will make the shoes grabby (if that is a word). The effect is that the shoes tend to grab or stick when applied. If the leak is slight, it may not have been noticed when the shoes were changed. Over time it ...


4

If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it. Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's ...


4

It is likely that something has been pushed out of alignment during the repair - you need to inspect for things in that line of thought - look for places where parts have been rebolted/tightened and they are not exactly as they were or something that has been twisted etc. I make the assumption you are speaking of the latch mechanicals - which are often ...


4

This blog is a nice reference: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html It explains how to check: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes ...


4

In addition to an unexpected electrical load, as covered by Captain Claptrap, there are other things to check. The two biggest killers of lead/acid batteries are overcharging and vibration. Unless you have the equipment and the skills to use it properly (in which case you probably wouldn't be asking) I suggest you get the charging system checked by an ...


3

A lot depends on the insurance company and where you live. I have had it go both ways. In one case they offered a check, but wanted the vehicle. In another case they paid me and were happy I didn't make them tow it away. Be aware that laws vary from state to state and it may be a hassle to reregister the vehicle as it will have a salvage title. This may ...


3

The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always ...


3

It could also be that the dealer didn't apply brake grease. Brake Grease does NOT go between the pads and the rotors (where the friction occurs that makes the brakes work), but between the pads and the brake cylinder inside the caliper. It also goes on the little metal clips that are on the side of the brake pads. Often, squeaking in brakes is caused by ...


3

The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See: http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.


3

The 4.0L is generally a very robust engine so I think the problem is with the ancillaries. Here's what I would look at: Fuel pressure. If the car feels like you're running out of gas, it might be that the fuel pump isn't supplying enough fuel or there's another problem with the fuel system like a leaking injector. Has the fuel mileage been suffering ...


2

You need to stop what's getting in the HVAC system that's stopping up the drain, most likely dirt, debris, and leaves. These are entering they system through the fresh air intake of the HVAC system located in the cowl area. You can see the fresh air inlet below, anything small enough to get through that grate will eventually end up in your AC drain. ...


2

I found this: http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1l50u-does-dtc-12-memory-controller-cleared-within.html Which seems to confirm that 12 just means the battery was disconnected and that you should always see 55. 21 should not come up unless there is a problem, because the sensor should be able to detect rich or lean. So check/replace O2 is the correct ...


2

However you hooked up that alarm, disconnect it, and make sure it is good and disconnected. If that alarm was what drained your original battery in the first place, it's probably still not working and draining your battery and shorting out your electrical system. Then, take that new battery right back to autozone and convince them to trade it for a new one, ...


2

I have found that many times a U-joint in the early stages of failure will still pass the hand powered tug and twist test. It may be one or several damaged rollers that cause the clicking. The only sure method is to disconnect the suspect shaft and pivot the joint by hand to feel for any binding. You can try to isolate which joint is bad by driving slowly ...


1

The mystery noise was tracked to the transfer case. Even without a load on the car, the noise could be heard coming from the case box when the car was up on a lift and shifted into drive. I'm not sure that I would have figured this out if I hadn't had a mechanic put it on a lift... the alternative would have been to get it up on multiple jacks and craw under ...


1

Checking some Jeep forums you should see about 50 milliamps of load with every thing off. This accounts for radio presets and various control modules. As others have stated while measuring the load pull the fuses one at a time. Your Jeep should have a fuse box under the dash as well a one under the hood. Grand Cherokees may include some courtesy lights under ...


1

I ended up taking it to the Jeep dealership. Everything was replaced correctly and there was no pressure loss. The problem was in the Throttle Position Sensor. The auto parts store sold us a TPS that was supposedly OEM but the dealership said it wasn't. They put in their part and presto, a horrible engine was suddenly purring again. I thought it ...


1

It could simply be a clogged rear breather line. In the pcv system it's the one that draws vapor into the intake manifold, and if clogged the vapors will go through the airbox breather instead. Check the tubes and make sure they flow properly, and if any installed check valves are working. Replacing most of the rear hard breather line with fuel line on ...


1

Some brake pads are designed to squeal when the pad material is worn down to a certain point, the idea being that the squealing will warn the driver that new pads are needed. This isn't your problem, because your brakes are new, but it is one answer to the general question, "Should I be concerned about squealing brakes?"


1

I had the same problem on my '98 GC and it turned out to be lock/sensor on the glass hatch door. By pulling the cover off the entire hatch, I could tweak the wires going into the sensor/lock assemblies. When I torqued the one on the glass door, it would go on and off. While I haven't found a good way to fix it yet, I was able to yank the wires off that ...


1

The sensor itself is only part of the equation. There is also: The wiring from the sensor to the computer module. The object that strikes the sensor (the door itself, or a striker on the door). If the sensor works consistently when you manually press it, then it tells me that it's not getting reliably pressed by the door when the door is closed. This ...



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