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4

First, if it runs hotter during slower speeds (the 25mph-50mph you mention), I would think this is a sign that you're not getting enough airflow through the radiator. This might be a fan issues, but it might also be some other obstruction that prevents sufficient airflow. You said you hit a deer and had the radiator replaced as a result. I would check or ...


3

“Starting” a vehicle includes the starter motor, the ignition system, fuel system, security system and a flock of other considerations. Unable to “crank” or “turn over” the engine reduces the number of components to consider. Turn on the headlights then place the ignition key to start. Do the headlights dim at all? If not, it’s likely the solenoid ...


3

Don't be discouraged by a new part not working. My family runs a shop, and we get defective parts all the time. There is a table located here that shows diagnostic steps you can take. It's for a 1999 model, but 1999-2001 are virtually the same (I own a 2001 G/T model).


3

I remember this issue fondly from my Dad's old Grand Am! It would randomly start to lose power while driving (electrical would act like it was at reduced power, engine would start to cut out). A couple times it shut off completely on us and we coasted to a stop before getting it to restart. In our case the fix was a new ignition switch...


3

Why are you assuming that the fuse is only for the AC fan? It seems really strange that only one of the fans would have a fuse on its circuit. Replace the fuse, since you'll have to do it anyway - if the fan still doesn't come on, then start looking at other possible causes.


3

This actually ended up being a very simple problem. Something so simple that I'm almost in disbelief. My car has been running nearly straight antifreeze.(I'd say about 90% anyway) Everyone I'd talked to locally has said it should run even cooler doing that... but they're wrong. I emptied my expansion tank(not the radiator itself) and filled it with ...


2

You see, the problem with runnning with straight coolant--a don't know how that fad got started in the previous century--is that coolant has relatively little heat capacity; whereas water has very much (near tops) heat capacity--for which reason, the main coolant during summer driving is water, not antifreeze. The main purpose of commercial ...


2

It can be done with a power source and a standard VOM. Apply appropriate power source to appropriate pins while listening for click and looking for the desired effect (could be presence vs. absence of voltage or continuity/lack of) on the VOM which would be attached to the appropriate pins. You'll want a repair manual to find out what to replace ...


2

Hook your temp sender up to a meter and drop it in some boiling water. This should tell you if it's working or not. Personally, I'd just disconnect it until you get the issue figured out -- running the fans continuously isn't going to hurt anything, it'll just be loud.


1

Have you checked the fan relay? It should be in the fusebox/power center under the hood. You can check the relay by swapping it with another identical relay out of the fuse box. You can also try checking it by having an assistant start the car and cycle the a/c on and off. With your finger on the relay you may be able to feel the tick as the contacts close. ...


1

coolant pressure shouldn't be more than 15~20 psi, oil pressure will be 40psi + Could be oil seal was leaking into water pump which is why he did ignition (I thought they had external trigger though?) Reading previous question/answer I would concur on intake or head gasket leak Personally I think you should get a second opinion, get compression and leakdown ...


1

I would start looking at the steering column wiring. I think you have a pinched,cut, chafed etc wire. The fact that you blew a fuse and the accessories work without the key leads me to believe you have power being applied when it shouldn't be and not being applied when it should be. Be careful about random probing in the column as you can inadvertantly ...


1

I had to do this recently, like Brian said you'll need a power source and a multimeter. Most relays have a wiring diagram printed on them and most automotive relays are 4 pronged. Two prongs will be your positive and negative power and the other two will be the bridge that is made. What I did, and this was a very very cheap method and suggest for possible ...


1

Just having a row of fins slightly bent shouldn't be that bad an issue - what percentage of the radiator is damaged like this? I don't think I have ever had a car with a protective grille in front of the radiator - usually the bugs kill themselves on the radiator fins. What is possibly more likely is a build up of sludge in the radiator - an indicative ...


1

The hissing might be a vacuum leak, have your mechanic look into that. When car runs hot or gets close to overheating, it is extra taxing on several parts of the engine and cooling system. There could be gasket that is leaking or a water pump that is close to failing, or you could just have a bad thermostat, but it sounds like the problem might be worse. ...


1

Have you replaced the thermostat and or the coolant temperature sensor. I have had a car which I thought was overheating have a bad coolant temperature sensor and there was actually nothing wrong with it. If that doesn't fix it I would replace the thermostat which is cheap and easy in most cars.


1

You may have two problems. Even with the cooling fans running all of the time, the engine thermostat should force the engine to warm up at a normal speed. The thermostat will regulate the coolant to the radiator/fans if it is working properly. It can be normal for the cooling fans to run constantly under certain conditions. If the car is hot enough, they ...


1

On some cars, the cooling fans have their own thermostats or are triggered by coolant temp readings on your ECU. While you don't want your motor to overheat, you want it reaching operating temperature quickly as this is where your motor is most efficient - e.g. lower emissions, better mileage.



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