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12

I have both a 2004 Bora TDI (Jetta Mk4 in the US) and a 2012 Mk6 TDI Golf. When either of these cars requires it's warm up system, it will automatically switch it on for the time it needs. This is signified by the glow plug light illumination on the dashboard: Once it's up to the temperature it requires, the light goes out and the car can be started. I ...


12

It is the sound of the fuel pump priming and pressurizing the fuel lines, which is absolutely normal. VW likes to use the opening of the driver door to trigger fuel rail pressurization. In fact, one could use the absence of the sound of the fuel pump as a tell-tale sign that the fuel pump relay is not functioning properly. As @Paulster2 points out, either ...


9

tl;dr: This procedure checks the oil "reserve" remaining in the pan after all moving parts are lubricated. This procedure is purely vehicle dependent. For example, on my car, I'm supposed to check the oil when the engine is cold. In asking you to check when the engine is hot, the oil will not be pooled in the oil pan. Instead, it will have been fully ...


8

We have a Mk4 TDI Jetta that makes a sound after startup that might be described as a sneeze. I'm fairly confident that it's the starter motor's overrun clutch. As soon as the engine "starts," it begins turning faster than the starter can turn. For this reason, starters have a one-way clutch, called an overrun or sprag clutch. This permits the starter to ...


6

ELM documentation indicates that this is not a query-only problem. I see on page 31 of that document that the issue was that of the rate at which J1850 requests arrive at the OBD system (this is a consequence of the April 2002 update of the J1979 standard). Specifically, they warn you against querying at rates higher than 100 milliseconds (also known as 10 ...


6

Found it was because a bolt holding the steering rack in place had sheared. Very dangerous and glad I decided to visit a mechanic!


5

I don't know the specifics of that car, so I'm going to take a stab and assume we're talking about coil springs. Springs only squeak where they contact something else, which is why spraying them didn't help. If you can't see anything else in contact with the spring have a look at the top and bottom seats. Those seats sometimes wear. Not necessarily all the ...


5

tl;dr: Your radiator cap might be working as advertised and releasing a bit of overpressure. The difference is points one and two is telling. In point two, you're explicitly staying out of boost on the turbo. Steady state cruising really doesn't require the turbo to spin up. In point one, you're explicitly relying on the turbo quite a bit. This is going ...


5

Problems like this are addressed in Charles Probst's excellent reference, Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management. From what I can gather, the Mk1 Golf utilizes a basic K-Jetronic system illustrated in the diagram below1 (which operates on the principle of continuous injection). The stalling symptom is an indication that the air-fuel mixture is not ...


5

You should have been charging on the low side not the high side. But it's actually good that you weren't able to top off the system. You should never use that stuff in any car AC system and it's outlawed in the states. This is a flammable refrigerant! From the SDS (Saftey Data Sheet) AUTO – IGNITION TEMPERATURE: 1585 F FLASHPOINT: -34 C LOWER ...


5

Your Golf should have two fuel pumps: one for the injectors (high pressure) and one which feeds the injector pump (low pressure). The low pressure pump would reside in the fuel tank. I'm thinking the low pressure pump may be going bad, as in getting weak. If it were starting to overheat, it may not pump fuel like it is supposed to and would cause the loss of ...


4

It looks an awful lot like you have diagnosed all of the really hard problems and come up negative. I wonder if you have a simple mechanical problem: is the linkage sound between the hot / cold selector and the flapper valve that forces air past the heater core. From what I hear, the foam around the flapper is also prone to disintegration in humid climates:...


4

You can see the corrosion on the pipe around the clip - even if Radweld or similar is able to temporarily stop the leak, I doubt that it'll last very long. At the rate that it's leaking, there is bound to be a bunch of fairly sizeable holes corroded into the pipe. For that reason alone I would change out the pipe as soon as I could. If that breaks (worst ...


4

The fault you describe appears to be a simple matter of 'parasitic drain' on the battery. Disconnect the battery earth terminal, connect a ampmeter between the cable and the battery post. Run the ampmeter to outside of the bonnet and close the bonnet without trapping the ampmeter wires. Make sure all doors are closed, they do not have to be locked. After ...


4

The Aux port is simply an SPDIF (3.5mm headphone) port that turns your car stereo into an expensive set of speakers for your MP3 player. It doesn't do anything fancy like "communicating" with your device, aside from accepting incoming audio. I don't know anything about your specific car, but generally you switch your car's audio system to Aux-in mode when ...


4

Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement. Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement. Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something ...


4

The ultimate answer is "yes". You can paint it lime green with purple polka dots if you really wanted to. If you want to do it right and make it look good, you'll need to: Pull the engine/transmission and separate them. Clean the heck out of the entire assembly. Remove or cover any parts which you do not want painted (such as accessories or intake/exhaust ...


4

It's a common problem on the Mk1 that the clutch cable pulls through the bulkhead and the repair plate is usually all that is required, however you may find that this no longer gives you enough travel on the cable. Undo the two interlocking nuts on the gearbox end of the cable and remove them completely. Thread the table through the fork split in the ...


4

OK, so the problem was that, due to a faulty fuel gauge sender, I over filled the tank. And since the seal around the top of the 'hatch' had partially disintegrated, well this happened: When parked on an angle, fuel was just flowing from the top of the tank :/


4

It sounds as though the turn signal switch has gone bad. The contacts inside the switch are probably just worn out. Not sure on your Golf, but I believe these are pretty easy to purchase and to replace.


3

Have you checked for a blown fuse? You may also be able to reach the release either by reaching into the wheel well or removing an interior panel. Another option is that the latch is released but the spring that pops the door open is broken. Have an assistant try to open the door while you actuate the switch.


3

The thermostat will open/close when reaching certain temperature. If it does not work properly you can see some of the symptoms you currently have. This is, usually, not an expensive part to replace.


3

You shouldn't need to turn the key so hard it breaks. Most newer vehicles will lock the steering wheel if you turn the wheels without the key in the ignition. Basically, keep doing what you initially tried but don't turn the key so hard. Just keep jiggling the steering wheel back and forth, pump the brakes a few times and gently turn the key. This ...


3

If the wrong tension is on the belt one of two things could happen Too loose: Skip a tooth or two on the belt - this leads to early/late firing and possibly pistons slapping on to valves if the clearances are already tight. Too tight: extra tension put on the belt - this can lead to bearings being incorrectly loaded and at worst a failure in the belt - ...


3

After properly taking it apart, I learned the plastic mounts were actually broken and the "glue" that was there was likely do to a previous repair job. I went to a local WV dealer to get the part replaced and they informed me that they no longer manufacture that part. Bummer! After additional inspection, I learned that the flat-headed bolts, which the ...


3

Old topic, but just had the exact same problem on a 1.9tdi 110. The problem occured only under load, and certain driving conditions "pushing" the engine harder. We changed everything, cap, thermostat, resevoir, radiator!(someone suggested i could be clogged), oil heat exchanger, pipework, watter pump, and the heater matrix was eliminated at one point because ...


3

Your Golf's turbo has a solenoid operated control to vary its geometry. I remember it as part N75. If this is in any way faulty you will have most of the symptoms you are describing. A hand-held vacuum pump to the turbo's vacuum supply hose will allow you to see the turbo vanes operating correctly. Follow the vacuum hose from the turbo back to the solenoid ...


3

Found out this actually requires another O-ring, not a gasket. Another O-ring came with new the thermostat and I was able to use that.


3

The answer was that the battery was bad. Apparently it was a cheap battery and the failed alternator drained it. Once it had been drained, it would no longer hold a charge. Replacing the batter with a new, good-quality (VW) battery fixed the problem entirely. One clue was that when I jumpstarted the car, all the symptoms went away -- no blinking lights ...


3

It was the bulbs. I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- both low beams go at the same time. My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or... One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works. The second one goes and you ...



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