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Fuses have 3 different parameters; current rating, voltage rating and physical size. The physical size is self explanatory, it just has to fit. The current rating is also rather self explanatory. The fuse protects the circuit against high current. If the current rating is exceeded the fuse blows. A fuse should always be replaced with another fuse with ...


That's what's known as a 'barrel fuse' or 'cartridge fuse' - You should be able to get them at any decent electrical supplier. The fuse will have blown because it was overloaded - and the most likely cause of this is a short circuit. Before replacing the fuse, try to identify the source of the short. The loose connection you mention is a good place to ...


Replace them all? No. As others have mentioned, they're either working or they're not. Test them with a multimeter or fuse tester. Be sure to look for "fusible links" in the wiring on a newer car, not all fuses are in the fuse box anymore for some unfathomable reason... Take them all out, one at a time, and clean them? I've had that help on some ...


As a general maintenance practice or a troubleshooting method without having a particular reasoned approach, no. If it's troubleshooting, testing the fuses on their exposed blade tips is equivalent. That said, replacing the fuses shouldn't create any risks so long as you're replacing them with the appropriate values. It should be pointed out that fuses ...


Fuses do not need to be replaced unless they have blown, so it's not a regular maintenance thing. In terms of checking them, depending on your vehicle, many only require a visual check to see if the metal is present or missing. If you do have fuses where their status is not obvious, a good multimeter is only a few dollars (probably cheaper than replacing ...


There are three fuses for the seat heater system 1) Passenger fuse box: Fuse 20, 7.5 amp. Supplies Seat heater control unit. 2) Passenger fuse box: Fuse 5, 15 amp. Supplies relay power pin. 3) Driver side fuse box: Fuse 26, 7.5 amp. Supplies to relay control coil. Some have power key off, some do not.


If you can get to both sides of the fuse, see if you have power on each side. If you want to make sure, remove the battery terminal, and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the battery terminal and the other side of the fuse. Should be zero or close to it. If so, it is good. With this type of fuse, when it blows, there is usually a large gap ...


Instead of Ohms checks of fuses I check for voltage with power on. Set your voltmeter to DC volts with the negative lead on the battery negative connector. With the positive lead test both sides of the fuse. If good it will read battery voltage on both sides. Most fuses have exposed metal tabs on both sides of the actual fuse section for this purpose. On ...


The fuse connection legs are through bolted on many of these higher amp rated fuses. To find out remove the black plastic cover below the fuses. If you find small nuts then they are the bolted in type. BTW if the fuse links under the clear plastic windows look OK then they do not need to be replaced.


I've blown three on my 99 Tacoma. A tech told me my Verizon charger was the culprit, as its ground contacts on the side are "longer than most." Everyone I've heard of with this problem is using a Verizon charger.


2 possible causes I can think of. Dimmer switch had been turned all the way down or the dimmer part of the switch is bad. You can still turn on the dome light even when the dimmer part is inoperative. Fuse for instrument Cluster is bad, I think it is Fuse #15 (7.5amp) on that model. Interior fuse panel.

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