Hot answers tagged fuse
To track down and troubleshoot electrical issues, you will almost certainly need a multimeter (also known as a Volt-Ohm meter) - digital ones are best, like the one illustrated below (from Wikipedia) You can get cheap ones, which are fine for most automotive stuff, or much more expensive ones with all sorts of clever features. The two most useful things ...
Tools Digital Multimiter Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM) CAUTION: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere ...
A fuse blowing indicates something is wrong. This could of course be a transient that just requires a fuse replacement or a trip reset, but what if it's something more serious, like a short allowing high current to flow through sensitive components, or to ignite something flammable? Or an indication of failure of an expensive part. A self resetting trip ...
Tail light fuse will be third from the left along the top row. As for a concise fuse diagram with full descriptions... Will that do?
It was the bulbs. I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- both low beams go at the same time. My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or... One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works. The second one goes and you ...
Unfortunately, simply unplugging a fuse isn't going to stop a determined thief, as they often tow cars away rather than going to the noise and effort of trying to start them... I'd suggest some kind of physical lock, either on the steering wheel, gear lever/handbrake, or similar - they often act as a visual deterrent to casual thieves as well, who will go ...
I'd like to add to Nick's answer and mention a Circuit Tester if you need to simply test the circuit for power.
It would help to know what type of car it is but on a petrol vehicle, a quick and easy solution is to remove the king lead from the coil (it's the one that runs to the centre of the distributer cap). No coil lead means no spark which on a petrol car means it won't start. Unfortunately this won't work on a Diesel as these don't rely on spark plugs.
This a warning for the engines immobiliser. Re-programme the keys: With a key switch the ignition on, insert key to be programmed into the drivers door and manually lock the vehicle, press the lock button once, wait a couple of seconds and press the lock button once again. The vehicles horn should beep to let you know the key has been programmed. Repeat for ...
I'm thinking, from your description, that the problem is the blinker relay, not a fuse. The lights themselves should go through the tail lamp fuse. The relay is what gives the characteristic ticking sound. The emergency flashers usually run off of a separate blinker relay, but may be the same thing. If so, you can use it to test between the two. These relays ...
There is no way that I know of which messing around with the fuses would cause your issue. I will assume at this point you replaced the fuse you moved to the tail lights, so this is not your problem. Sounds to me that there is a larger transmission problem happening here.
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