Hot answers tagged

17

Fuses do not need to be replaced unless they have blown, so it's not a regular maintenance thing. In terms of checking them, depending on your vehicle, many only require a visual check to see if the metal is present or missing. If you do have fuses where their status is not obvious, a good multimeter is only a few dollars (probably cheaper than replacing ...


14

Instead of Ohms checks of fuses I check for voltage with power on. Set your voltmeter to DC volts with the negative lead on the battery negative connector. With the positive lead test both sides of the fuse. If good it will read battery voltage on both sides. Most fuses have exposed metal tabs on both sides of the actual fuse section for this purpose. On ...


9

The fuse connection legs are through bolted on many of these higher amp rated fuses. To find out remove the black plastic cover below the fuses. If you find small nuts then they are the bolted in type. BTW if the fuse links under the clear plastic windows look OK then they do not need to be replaced.


9

As a general maintenance practice or a troubleshooting method without having a particular reasoned approach, no. If it's troubleshooting, testing the fuses on their exposed blade tips is equivalent. That said, replacing the fuses shouldn't create any risks so long as you're replacing them with the appropriate values. It should be pointed out that fuses ...


8

To track down and troubleshoot electrical issues, you will almost certainly need a multimeter (also known as a Volt-Ohm meter) - digital ones are best, like the one illustrated below (from Wikipedia) You can get cheap ones, which are fine for most automotive stuff, or much more expensive ones with all sorts of clever features. The two most useful things ...


8

Traced this problem to a fuse under the dashboard, located in the middle horizontal row right most fuse. Turns out this fuse is the indicator fuse and when this fuse is blown the indicators won't work but the hazard lights still work. This was the solution in my specific instance but there are two other possible faults which could be to blame for indicators ...


7

Tools Digital Multimiter Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM) CAUTION: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere ...


6

As I understand it, there was a fundamental redesign in the cars from around 2002 onwards. Unfortunately that doesn't help you but I wonder if it is possible to retrofit the later model fuse box. Thank you for the picture, this has cleared things up. The fuse that has melted in your unit is S177 which is wired to the alternator. Apparently as the cable ...


6

There are three fuses for the seat heater system 1) Passenger fuse box: Fuse 20, 7.5 amp. Supplies Seat heater control unit. 2) Passenger fuse box: Fuse 5, 15 amp. Supplies relay power pin. 3) Driver side fuse box: Fuse 26, 7.5 amp. Supplies to relay control coil. Some have power key off, some do not.


6

Replace them all? No. As others have mentioned, they're either working or they're not. Test them with a multimeter or fuse tester. Be sure to look for "fusible links" in the wiring on a newer car, not all fuses are in the fuse box anymore for some unfathomable reason... Take them all out, one at a time, and clean them? I've had that help on some ...


5

It could be a blown fuse as you suggest. It could also be that the motor isn't receiving current due to a break in the wiring. The multimeter should come in handy to verify this - check to confirm that a voltage drop registers across the pump motor terminals when the wiper stalk is engaged. It may also be that the motor in the pump has gone bad - check for ...


5

It sounds to me like a dead battery. Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery. What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...


5

Its fairly common for these to burn out sockets for the bulbs, and even often on both sides at the same time. The socket can be removed asa separate piece, and it is fairly likely melted and/or burned


5

They are typically on the same fuse. Charging outlet should be listed as a cigarette lighter.


5

The parking lamp/headlight switch applies power or ground so the circuit would be open if you were testing with the switch off. Same with the turn signals. The tail lights are on separate circuits. They don't share a ground. Does the car have an aftermarket trailer harness? If not your going to have to remove panels and visually inspect the harness for ...


5

If you can get to both sides of the fuse, see if you have power on each side. If you want to make sure, remove the battery terminal, and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the battery terminal and the other side of the fuse. Should be zero or close to it. If so, it is good. With this type of fuse, when it blows, there is usually a large gap ...


4

If the tail lights were hot during the swap you may have broken the filiments. Bumping a bulb that is on or been on recently can cause the filiments to fail. Remove the bulbs hold them up to a light and see if the filimant is intact.


4

Tail light fuse will be third from the left along the top row. As for a concise fuse diagram with full descriptions... Will that do?


4

Sounds like the car charger has a short in it. If you really, really wanted to I supposed you could test for low resistance across the charger plug. Or, perhaps try plugging it into a different car and see if it blows the fuse there. If it was me, I'd try a different device in the car and verify that it's not a loose socket. If it fails that, I'd get the ...


4

Replace the wire between the alternator and the fuse box. It's called the alternator harness, but I haven't found it for sale online. It is just a simple (large) wire with two ring connectors crimped on the ends. It tends to get a break in the wire near the fuse box that then arcs and overheats; this is not a problem with a short otherwise the fuse ...


3

I figured it out. There was a piece of metal that fell off the tip of one of my car chargers that was inside the cigarette lighter... It kept blowing the fuse but when I discovered it and removed it, the problem was fixed.


3

A fuse blowing indicates something is wrong. This could of course be a transient that just requires a fuse replacement or a trip reset, but what if it's something more serious, like a short allowing high current to flow through sensitive components, or to ignite something flammable? Or an indication of failure of an expensive part. A self resetting trip ...


3

I would just add a comment but I don't have enough points I guess. I just wanted to say you are addressing it correctly. The wrong thing to do (but tempting) is to just throw a bigger fuse in there. Avoid that temptation. It's possible that someone (previous owner maybe) has tapped into that circuit since it's an easily available 12V source. Trace the ...


3

I had to deal with this problem some years ago on a VW. What I noticed is that the fusible link ran slack, causing the connection to arc and as a result burnt out the plastic housing below. I couldn't get a fuse box so I by passed the burnt area, had a link fabricated and secured it with a bolt and nut.


3

Sounds like a bad ignition switch for the following reasons: It could be an incomplete starter motor circuit, but this will not explain why the dashboard lights are not turning on, which indicates that the ignition switch is not going into the 'On' position. Independent of the starter motor, the fuel pump relay should also "click" when the key in the ...


3

If it was me, I'd wire the live supply to the multimedia system to the switched live (ie the 12V when the key is on) and not always live (direct to the battery) That is a simple fix. It does seem a bit strange that the current draw from the multimedia system is so high when off, though, so you may want to check the system and see if it is behaving ...


3

Cars commonly multiplex their electrical systems. This means that multiple things are fed from the same fuse. The best way to identify what is on the fuse is to check the wiring diagrams. Once all the possible sources from the fuse have been identified the fault can be systematically narrowed down. First look at components that come on and off, this is the ...


3

From what I understand and how I've seen it used. If the ignition is off it uses the residual heat from the engine to warm the car. In order to validate my claim, turn your car off and hit the button. You may need to try it with the key in it. Interested if I'm correct. Please follow up. :-)


3

You could try unplugging each lock switch one at a time(or all at once) and test to see if a switch is shorting. If the car has an aftermarket security system you could try removing it from the door lock system. The wire loom that run into the doors can also be suspect. You should probably have a locksmith look at your key and lock cylinder so that you ...


3

The thirty amp fuse is your main fuse To ensure we are speaking using the same nomenclature, K1 is referring to model year 2001 in my verbiage. This 30 amp fuse supplies all the power to your fuse block with various 5, 10 and 20 amp fuses populated. I have quite a few hours on this bike and have seen a scenario that you are describing. Here are some ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible