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5

It sounds to me like a dead battery. Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery. What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...


5

Its fairly common for these to burn out sockets for the bulbs, and even often on both sides at the same time. The socket can be removed asa separate piece, and it is fairly likely melted and/or burned


5

To track down and troubleshoot electrical issues, you will almost certainly need a multimeter (also known as a Volt-Ohm meter) - digital ones are best, like the one illustrated below (from Wikipedia) You can get cheap ones, which are fine for most automotive stuff, or much more expensive ones with all sorts of clever features. The two most useful things ...


4

Tools Digital Multimiter Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM) CAUTION: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere ...


4

If the tail lights were hot during the swap you may have broken the filiments. Bumping a bulb that is on or been on recently can cause the filiments to fail. Remove the bulbs hold them up to a light and see if the filimant is intact.


3

A fuse blowing indicates something is wrong. This could of course be a transient that just requires a fuse replacement or a trip reset, but what if it's something more serious, like a short allowing high current to flow through sensitive components, or to ignite something flammable? Or an indication of failure of an expensive part. A self resetting trip ...


3

Sounds like the car charger has a short in it. If you really, really wanted to I supposed you could test for low resistance across the charger plug. Or, perhaps try plugging it into a different car and see if it blows the fuse there. If it was me, I'd try a different device in the car and verify that it's not a loose socket. If it fails that, I'd get the ...


3

I would just add a comment but I don't have enough points I guess. I just wanted to say you are addressing it correctly. The wrong thing to do (but tempting) is to just throw a bigger fuse in there. Avoid that temptation. It's possible that someone (previous owner maybe) has tapped into that circuit since it's an easily available 12V source. Trace the ...


2

You should also check the battery connections. Make sure they are clean and secure.


2

That just means that particular circuit is an always on circuit and not switched by the ignition. When you reconnect the battery lead the computer is probably doing a power on test and as such some relays are being activated such as testing the fan etc.


2

Tail light fuse will be third from the left along the top row. As for a concise fuse diagram with full descriptions... Will that do?


2

It was the bulbs. I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- both low beams go at the same time. My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or... One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works. The second one goes and you ...


2

Unfortunately, simply unplugging a fuse isn't going to stop a determined thief, as they often tow cars away rather than going to the noise and effort of trying to start them... I'd suggest some kind of physical lock, either on the steering wheel, gear lever/handbrake, or similar - they often act as a visual deterrent to casual thieves as well, who will go ...


1

I'd like to add to Nick's answer and mention a Circuit Tester if you need to simply test the circuit for power.


1

It would help to know what type of car it is but on a petrol vehicle, a quick and easy solution is to remove the king lead from the coil (it's the one that runs to the centre of the distributer cap). No coil lead means no spark which on a petrol car means it won't start. Unfortunately this won't work on a Diesel as these don't rely on spark plugs.


1

This a warning for the engines immobiliser. Re-programme the keys: With a key switch the ignition on, insert key to be programmed into the drivers door and manually lock the vehicle, press the lock button once, wait a couple of seconds and press the lock button once again. The vehicles horn should beep to let you know the key has been programmed. Repeat for ...


1

I'm thinking, from your description, that the problem is the blinker relay, not a fuse. The lights themselves should go through the tail lamp fuse. The relay is what gives the characteristic ticking sound. The emergency flashers usually run off of a separate blinker relay, but may be the same thing. If so, you can use it to test between the two. These relays ...


1

There is no way that I know of which messing around with the fuses would cause your issue. I will assume at this point you replaced the fuse you moved to the tail lights, so this is not your problem. Sounds to me that there is a larger transmission problem happening here.


1

According to this Fusible link FAQ: What size replacement fusible link should be used ? The automotive service industry recommends using the same gauge and length as the blown fusible link after the cause of failure is corrected. Ensure the size/length you put back in is the size/length you took out. Also, as I've highlighted, a new fusible link ...


1

Since the only thing that changed between the time it worked and the time it didn't work was the passenger door, I'd be willing to bet that's your problem. Since there is no way to diagnose the specific electrical malfunction with this site, I suggest removing all the connections from the passenger door, and verifying that everything works as it should (car ...


1

I figured it out. There was a piece of metal that fell off the tip of one of my car chargers that was inside the cigarette lighter... It kept blowing the fuse but when I discovered it and removed it, the problem was fixed.


1

Do you have a multimeter? Check the current across the fuse (should be zero with nothing plugged in), continuity from fuse-lighter and lighter-ground, and that there isn't any continuity across the lighter. If you can get to it, unplug the connector from the back of the lighter socket, that way you can check the socket itself separately from the wiring. ...


1

Also check the relay under the dash for the parking/running lights, I just fixed one in my shop 10 mins ago that needed the relay and new bulbs (bad bulb on one side caused all brake/run lights to go out if the running lights were on when applying the brakes) also check the sockets and contacts as well


1

Could be a short, but most likely was a bad connection on the battery causing a short, thus the car turned itself off to prevent any damages, now that everything works, check the fuses again to see about the airbag light.


1

Definitely sounds like a fuse, but you must locate the one that powers accessories. Not sure what the ones you mentioned are, but if it is not for accessories, it is not it.


1

As far as the fuses are concerned, it's never a bad idea to add a fuse to a particular section of a circuit that you're concerned about. For the high-beam fuses, in particular, I would start conservatively. Your average high beam (for a normal headlight) is 55 or 65 watts. In a 12 V circuit, that's less than 6 amps nominally. If you put in a 10 amp fuse, you ...



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