Hot answers tagged fuel-system
7
Unless you've got an extraordinary circumstance or legitimate reason for using it, don't. Chances are the usage will temporary make the symptoms subside, only to return again later.
The way I see it, if your vehicle required it you would find it listed in the recommended maintenance items list in your owner's manual.
I think another side to this question ...
7
The "correct" way to clean fuel injectors is to take them out and use some specialised equipment that also allows you to check the injector's spray pattern and flow, which I doubt Firestone will have - usually only FI specialists do have that sort of kit.
My guess is that they were trying to sell you some overpriced additive that you can buy at the store ...
5
Other possible sources:
Vacuum Leak
Other Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.)
Really poor fuel
Air Filter Blocked
Exhaust Blockage
I would start with the spark plugs. Take them out and see if they can give any indication as to the true problem. See this answer for more info (While you have them out, replace them if you need to). Then start ...
3
I think weighing down the float is definitely the wrong approach - they're fixing the symptom (float not falling) rather than the cause (stiff pivot on the sender). It looks like the sender is easy to remove from the pump, so I'd try and make sure the sender moved freely through its full range of movement before fitting it - this may require lubricating the ...
3
Perform the obvious checks first. Check the air filter and pull the spark plugs and inspect and replace if needed. Take note of their condition. (smell like fuel? / Showing signs of a rich/lean condition? / broken? / etc)
Now, lets have a look at the fuel pressure regulator.
The fuel pressure regulator is operated by the vacuum line that's attached to ...
3
You still haven't answered the question "Why do YOU want to do this?" I can provide you a better answer if I have that information.
I have been in the automotive repair business for more that 20 years and have sold and done many induction services. They work, but only if you need them. I used several systems and they all are comparable in results but vary ...
3
I caved (mainly since it is dangerous to keep driving it like it is) and brought it to my local mechanic. He says it is the Idle Air Intake control. I am not going to accept this answer until I can do a test drive.
EDIT: Well my mechanic was right on the nose. The replacement worked like a charm.
3
Yes. You should use the fuel recommended by your owner's manual. If you don't you are increasing emissions, reducing performance and, in some circumstances, putting your car at risk of avoidable problems.
As I said over here:
High octane is required for some cars:
e.g., a turbocharged car will likely
require higher octane to reduce risk
of ...
2
Although this isn't a scientific test, from experience I've found that using Gumout or Berrymans B-12 (which is much cheaper but very effective) every 3,000 miles has been fairly effective at keeping my engine cleaner.
I've confirmed this because last year when changing the oil on my fathers car, I decided to run SeaFoam (another excellent fuel system ...
2
From what I understand, a "fuel induction service" is nothing more than running a chemical cleaning agent through the fuel system.
If you are not experiencing any symptoms of clogged injectors, it is unlikely to help. However, it may be marginally useful as a preventative against build-up.
Personally, I just add a can of SeaFoam to my gas tank a couple ...
2
Generally speaking (not familiar with that model), it could be due to:
Bad fuel pump (fairly rare, fuel pumps are one thing that usually last forever)
Clogged fuel filter (has it been changed recently/ever?)
Bad fuel pressure regulator (although, they usually fail the opposite way)
Leaking fuel injectors (unlikely, would require a pump that's marginal to ...
2
It sure sounds like a valve is sticking or leaking. There's a remote possibility that your troubles are caused by a clogged catalytic converter or a leaky exhaust. If you can't find any other clues it might be worth it to ask someone at your local bike shop for an opinion before tearing the whole darn thing apart.
2
Points would be the first thing I would check. It sounds like the ignition is breaking down i.e. not enough spark getting to the plugs. The next thing to check is the wires. If you have access to an ignition scope or a Kv meter it can make the diagnosis easier.
Pulling the plugs and inspecting them can give you more clues see my answer here for help on ...
2
This doesn't sound like fuel injectors at all. My first to suspects are the IAC (Idle Air Control) and the AC compressor.
Does the AC work fine otherwise? When not at idle. If so I am leaning more toward the IAC.
The computer on the car maintains idle speed by opening and closing a small air passage with a stepper motor. When you turn on the AC and put the ...
2
If you're regularly using seafoam, taking care of the engine, and haven't noticed any issues (and also aren't using it for baja or rally), I'd probably skip it. I've done it on every vehicle I own (around 140k on the wife's jetta, 160k on a ranger and 240k on an f150) the first two were starting to have a slight roughness on idle... the f150 I was doing a ...
1
I would advise against using any kind of additive or cleaner. Your best bet is to send it to a professional injector cleaning service.
When my car hit 100K miles, I sent the injectors to this place this place. Was fast and inexpensive though you have to live your car being down for about a week. He even gives you a comparison of how fuel flowed before ...
1
If this is a new problem I would look for a vacum leak. Typically cold start idle issues are the result of a lean mixture. Most fuel injected engines utilize a cold start circuit inorder to maintain idle when the engine is cold. This circuit allows for a rich mixture while cold, think of it as a computer controlled choke. Rather than restricting air like a ...
1
Are you sure the rough idling is due to clogged injectors? If so, you might want to consider sending the injectors off to be ultrasonically cleaned. If you really want to do it yourself, get a rebuild kit (new filters / o-rings) and soak them in solvent. You can even rig up a wire harness to cycle them while feeding them solvent. Details here.
1
Actually, I've found that a can/bottle of fuel system cleaner, like say from STP or BG, works great with one caveat - it says to add to one full tank of gas. Add it to a nearly empty tank so that you can drive at least 30 miles or so, and run it as close to empty as possible before adding gas again. The extra bit of concentration makes a big difference, just ...
1
Given that this started when you replaced the exhaust, the likely culprit here seems to be that one of the o2 sensors starts to fail when it gets hot and your engine starts to use too much fuel. My second guess was going to be your MAS, but as you say, you don't have one.
Have a car shop scan for and OBD II code and see if there is a code being thrown, the ...
1
Backfiring is typically a too-rich condition. I would check any accelerator pump for proper operation, due to it being on acceleration only.
Engine's are inefficient when cold and will require a lot more fuel, so that may be what's masking the symptoms until warm.
It sounds like the engine is temporarily flooded on hard accel., and then when the gas is ...
1
Induction service should not be confused with injector service. Induction service is the cleaning of the air induction/intake side with seafoam, water or eve better steam. Injector service on the other hand, is cleaning of deposits from the fuel injector, either using an additive in the gas tank(less effective for driveability problems, more of a preventive ...
1
Long shot, but do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, might be a faulty alternator.
There's a chance you may have developed a vacuum leak, are you handy? You can do this yourself with a bottle of brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Spray around the engine bay (not coolant hoses, but vacuum specifically) and ...
1
Sounds like the idle isn't quite configured correctly. I had something vaguely similar on one of my Subarus - needed an ECU tweak. It was a fluctuating power loss during the first 2 minutes in the morning, if I was between 2000 and 2800 rpm.
Get your garage to check ECU and maybe slightly raise the idle. That worked for me (although ymmv, obviously)
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
