Hot answers tagged frame
Fish plating a frame is typically used when someone is building a custom frame and two pieces of steel are met and a plate is created to overlap both pieces to add structure support:
If building for a street vehicle, according to this forum post, they say that for 2x3, 2x4, and 2x5, 0.120" wall rectangular tubing is more than adequate for car frames. If you have to go a bit thicker to find what you want, even better. If you are building for competition use, you'll have to look up what their regulations state. Every sanctioning body will ...
A "Z" frame refers to a modification done to what would otherwise be a straight framed vehicle. Here is an image of two frames (done via 3D printing) of what the difference would be: the idea is to take the straight frame (top) and make the zig-zag in it. This in effect, lowers the body closer to the road without having to drastically alter the ...
If there is no metal to metal contact, there is no ground. That applies to both of your scenarios. The powder-coating will act as an insulator. Personally, I would drill the hole in the frame, install a bolt through the hole. Powder-coat that so that there is a bare spot under the head of the bolt that doesn't get covered. Then use that bolt to install ...
You could run a tap through the bolt after powder coating You could add a step to your process. After everything is complete. Nut welded to frame Complete Powder coating Run a tap through the nut to clear out any powder coating in the threads so you have good metal to metal contact with your grounding bolt. The tap should not have any negative effect ...
I would recommend checking the regulations of an appropriate race series, as anything that meets or exceeds these specifications should also be suitable for road use. For example, the UK MSA regulations on Roll-over protection state: K1.3.8. Guidance on Welding. All welding should be of the highest possible quality with full penetration and preferably ...
You have a couple of options: Open butt joint Butt joint with backing Lap Joint Offset joint Open Butt Joint Source I would not recommend this for joining frame rails, even though some manufactures (Toyota for example) recommend this type joint for sectioning procedures. Butt joint with a backing Can be made from a piece of one of the frame rails, ...
TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) is used generally on thinner metals and or aluminum. It would have less penetration than MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welding. I would not recommend TIG welding the Frame on any vehicle.
I was watching the show called Stacey David's Gearz ... it's one of those Saturday morning vehicle shows (at least that's the time I see it). He's been around the block a couple of times and his shows are a little cheezy, but he seems very knowledgeable. This one episode I saw, he was shortening the frame of a C10 to take it from a long bed to a short bed ...
The engine is a sub-component of the vehicle, just like a transmission. Think about if you took the vehicle to the shop with a blown engine. You have the engine replaced. The bike is still yours. The title still remains with you (or the bank if they own it). You could strip everything off the frame and you'd still retain the title with the frame.
In the uk - the titles go with the frame. The engine has its own number but that can be updated by writing to the relevant authority when you do an engine swap.
Tig welding should be fine as long as your machine is designed for welding at that thickness. For example if your frame rails are formed from 1/4" thick steel, you should be using something like a 300 amp tig setup.
You would be wise to get your vehicle on a hoist and clean up the rusted areas with a wire brush/grinder of various sizes. You can then apply primer or go straight to rubberized undercoat. From there you would be ok to to get your vehicle undercoated from a shop. The key to this is cleanliness. Make sure your vehicles undercarriage is properly rinsed ...
The "best" process is subjective, but most professional welders can weld almost anything almost anywhere with almost any process. That said, the ones I work with clearly prefer TIG over MIG, and MIG over stick, and stick over torches. I suggest you find someone to teach you whose equipment you can also borrow, and follow their guidance - there are enough ...
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