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1

The starter circuit is typically quite simple. The high current wire goes from the battery to the starter motor. The ignition sends a signal to a relay so it closes and allows current to flow to the starter solenoid. The solenoid engages the starter motor teeth with the flywheel teeth, and simultaneously connects the high current power to the starter motor. ...


3

Be it known that I, Joseph A. Williams, a citizen of the United States, residing in Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Ignition Apparaatus….” U.S. Patent # 1,092,417" That coil was used on model T Fords here are a little bits of info you might like complete with a link for you to ...


6

I see this all the time unfortunately. You need this tool LIS65600 You may need a long 8mm drill bit. You need something to knock the porcelain that's stuck in the ground strap out. Most of the time when the plug breaks like that you have to chip away at it with a long punch and use compressed air to blow it out of the plug well or long needle nose ...


2

2 possible causes I can think of. Dimmer switch had been turned all the way down or the dimmer part of the switch is bad. You can still turn on the dome light even when the dimmer part is inoperative. Fuse for instrument Cluster is bad, I think it is Fuse #15 (7.5amp) on that model. Interior fuse panel.


1

Is the field coil connection connected? If not the alternator will not produce any output at all. The field coil supplies the magnetic field needed to induce current in the alternator coil winding. There are 2 connections on a alternator. B+ Output of regulator Field Field coil connection The ground is the casing of the alternator. The plug ...


4

If it has an engine oil cooler, that is most likely the problem, a faulty oil cooler, some are made into the radiator, others have heater hoses running to a remote oil cooler, and a few I have seen are where the oil filter screws on, the oil cooler has a leak into the coolant side. The reason no coolant is in the oil is because it is a high pressure leak, ...


1

Unfortunately, it looks like once the Ford PAT system has tripped, it needs a dealer to fix it...


3

Tracy, I've seen bad gasoline contaminate a Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor. Fill up with gas, five miles later check engine lamp comes on (i.e. a code is set. ) This causes permanent damage to the sensor. But again these failures WILL set a code and turn on the Check Engine light. And you've not mentioned the light coming on. Where are you ...


1

Hard to say with the information given. Could be a lot of things. • codes, even if the CEL isn't on there might be something stored. • sensors - MAF, MAP, o2 would be most likely to cause these issues. Should be able to read with a multimeter. • air filter • spark plugs (clean, gapped correctly), wires, cap, rotor, coil • vacuum lines (check engine vacuum) ...


3

I suspect the contacts in the light switch are shorted. In a correctly working switch, In the off position you wouldn't have power on white/light blue or red/yellow. In the park lamp position it would only have power on the white/light blue wire. In the Head lamp position it sends power to the red/and white/light blue wire. If none of these are true ...


1

The "best" process is subjective, but most professional welders can weld almost anything almost anywhere with almost any process. That said, the ones I work with clearly prefer TIG over MIG, and MIG over stick, and stick over torches. I suggest you find someone to teach you whose equipment you can also borrow, and follow their guidance - there are enough ...


0

Just had new rims and performance tires installed on a 2001 CLK430. Same vibration through the steering wheel at 100 kph (ish).....regardless of road surface.....going to get the fronts rebalanced first as they did an alignment and checked the suspension during the install. I'll post the results.


0

I'm not familiar with Ford Focus, but I used to have a '77 Plymouth Fury that had this problem, it was a valve in the master cylinder not allowing the front brakes to release, and any dragging would cause expansion to cause the brakes to apply, aggravating the condition to the point where it wouldn't move, even though I was spinning the back wheels on dry ...


2

Here are some places to start: You car has a wheel bearing inside a wheel hub assembly (the part you bolt the tire to), there are also one or two control arms that are part of your suspension. Normally the bushings inside these control arms tear or disintegrate (they are usually a rubber compound) and the mounting components (a pin and clevis system) will ...


0

I've checked the brake fluid frequently and also yes I've tried a couple different brands. Even dot 4 when in the manual it says dot 3. Only thing that seems to help is letting the car sit and press on the brakes while the car is off so loosen them up.


0

Here it is... The plug is on the squarish black pan with visible gasket around the edges, close to driver side wheel and takes a Torx/star bit (size SD50). You can't miss it.


5

The drain plug will be part of the housing of the transmission. This is the closest image I could find: Note this is not exactly for your car, it's for an '07 Fusion 6 speed auto transmission. So it's not exactly correct, but I'm hoping that the '06 and '07 are close enough that this gets you into the right area. The pic and any other info you might ...


1

If you released your clutch too quickly, that is almost definitely the dog teeth in the transmission hitting each other while engaging. This happens and is clearly heard in smaller front wheel drives. (I first noticed it on a VW Polo).It is not a pleasant sound to hear. If your car is working fine with no noises, then there is nothing to worry about but I'd ...


1

What you are seeing is the use of fit type to form a positive seal. Older vehicles used harder materials (not to be mistaken for toughness or strength) for most parts. As a result it was possible to use an interference fit or a transition fit to form a seal. Attached is an image explaining this. Essentially, the fit is literally to tight for any fluid to ...


3

If the engine is capable of breathing mixture and spinning at the higher RPM, it should be producing more power than at lower RPM. Means it's likely getting eaten up somewhere in the drive train before it gets to the wheels, and the most likely candidate for that would be the torque converter as @Zaid suggested. Do you have a scanner for your car? Does the ...


4

The mystery was finally solved after taking in my vehicle due to a check engine light before a smog test. Both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor needed to replace as they were giving faulty readings which caused high idling on top of the cold start problems. I did clean the mass airflow sensor, but apparently this wasn't good enough since it ...


0

I suspect it's not quite at the correct angle, so as you try to pull out the belt, you're not pulling it square, which is causing the pretensioner to latch and stop you pulling it at all - IIRC it doesn't need to be far off square for this to happen.


2

The backup lights stay on and I have to remove the fuse to turn them off. If the headlamps stay on as well, the daytime running lamp circuit is back feeding into the backup lamp circuit. But since nothing about the headlamps is mentioned, that can be ruled out. Step 1 A simple way to test would be to unplug the range switch with the key off. Do ...


3

In a generic sense, yes, you can remove the lifters without removing the heads or engine from the vehicle. I'm assuming your engine is the 3.8L V6. There were two other engines available, the 4.6L V8 and 5.4L V8. Both of these are overhead cam engines which used rocker on lifter arrangements. I'll assume you don't have these because most owners of these ...


3

The air conditioner on this vehicle uses a vacuum powered HVAC controls. A leak anywhere in the vacuum system can cause this symptom. One way to test for leaks is to apply low pressure air (10psi) into the system and listen for leaks. Leaks at the vacuum reservoir are common. So is the line to the air recirculation valve because it is close to the passengers ...


3

You have to clean the engine bay first When troubleshooting for the source of an oil look you first have to completely clean off all of the old oil, dirt and built up grime. You can get a citrus based cleaner for oil at an auto parts store. Typically you will heat the engine up enough to make it warm but not hot enough that if you sprayed something on the ...


6

I believe this is normal behavior. I've test-driven a 2010 Ford Explorer; when the car is in P it will not allow you to go past 2500 rpm. When in D, no such limit.


9

The range switch doesn't think the car is in park. On Fords theres an adjustable cable if you look on the driver side of the transmission there will be lever with a cable attached. Sometimes the clip on the cable fails. if the cable is OK pull the lever all the way into park and it should start. If it doesn't you probably need a new range switch.



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