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Here is a video that shows the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0G2_Q1j4MzE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SonsC1u_6M0 I had a Mercedes that had a problem of mold growing on the leather. We had to get a anti mildew leather cleaner and take it to the leather.


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Sounds to me like you have a hole in your gas tank. The fuel is pouring out and running along the frame of the vehicle. If the fuel pump is not on (ignition is off) no electricity should make it to the fuel pump. The pressure in the fuel lines would go away and the pump would stop any siphoning action. Sounds like the shop tried to fix your tank and ...


2

I suspect that the sensors were detecting the loose paint as an object very close. You should be able to re-paint them, but I don't know if they would need a special sort of paint - it might be worth checking with Ford


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This could be one of several things: Swaybar links broken or missing Worn out strut/shock mount (on either end) Worn out suspension parts ... anywhere the suspension has a bushing which meets the car itself Without being there in person, it's hard to tell beyond that what it might be. I mean, it could also be a loose spare in the trunk area.


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There should be two main posts on your starter solenoid which have wires attached to them. The main one getting power from the battery. The other is the energizer from the ignition switch. Test the starter by jumping these two posts with a screwdriver (briefly), to see if the engine will turn over. If this works, this is likely a problem with the ignition ...


2

You need to identify exactly where the sound is coming from. To do this, jack up the front end and put it on jack stands. If it's what I'm thinking it is, you can probably keep the tires straight, then have one person hold one tire while you turn the other. If the noise is coming from the differential, as you are saying, you are probably going to need a ...


2

Are you sure you replaced the #5 coil? It should be the front driver's side. If you did, you might have gotten a bad coil. Another thing to try is to swap out the new coil with a different coil and see if the problem worsens or follows where you put the new coil. You could also do this with the old coil to see if the problem follows the coil or if it ...


1

It looks it is held by plastic rivets. You may be able to get them from dealer. Dealer can certainly help you with the information and if you don't ask them to fix, it shouldn't cost you anything.


4

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


3

Get something like 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive or Permatex Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Follow the directions on the product. You'll probably want to use some painter's tape (the blue stuff) to keep the trim in place while it cures. If it's a leading edge (appears to be so), make sure you have the tape covering the point of the trim so the wind won't try ...


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Many times it is not practical to find real cause. I can say with 80% certainty if you properly install another new pump, it should solve your problem. Buy one from autohausaz.com and watch Youtube to learn how to do it yourself and then do it yourself. Should cost less than $200.


1

It sounds as though your serpentine belt is the issue. The serpentine belt is connected to each pulley (a pulley is the circular disc that the rubber belt travels over) of various engine components (power steering, AC, turbocharger if you have one, etc) and as such has a lot of tension on it, but can't have too much. It may be that the dealer installed a ...


0

If it's where I'm thinking, you either need to take the cowl apart ... or if the other place, you'll need to pull the fender off of that side. Not a lot of fun either way. If the tool is made of steel, you may be able to get an extendable magnet and fish it out. Not a perfect method, but might save a lot of trouble.


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I suspect your starter failed to disengage from the flywheel even after the engine started. The screech was probably from the starter as it suddenly began to spin at a rate much greater than it was designed to do. This shouldn't hurt the engine or flywheel, but it will shorten the life of the starter if it continues. If you're lucky, this may not happen ...


0

Well, did you steal it? :D Unfortunately, you have to take your car to a certified locksmith who works on cars or to the dealership. These anti theft system has codes unique to your vehicle only dealer and locksmith has access to.


2

Following Nick's answer... There is sometimes a vacuum line that goes inside the cabin of the vehicle for HVAC controls. This line usually comes from the brake booster. Look at the brake booster's vacuum lines and see if there is one going through the firewall. If there is, try to follow it through the firewall and under the dash to the HVAC controls to ...


1

I think you're spot on with the 'engaging the starter for too long' thought - I suspect it got stuck and didn't return properly. Hopefully it won't have damaged anything, but if it continues you might find it wrecks the starter...


3

That sounds to me like a vacuum leak. Most cars have servo-assisted brakes (the reason it's much harder to brake if the engine is switched off), which is usually powered by a vacuum line taken off the inlet manifold (so that as the engine sucks in air and fuel, it also sucks air out of the servo). If you look in the engine bay at the point nearest the ...


6

Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, depending on your viewpoint), that is not a broken lug nut, but the nut which is formed into the plastic hub cap. Take the hub cap off and you'll see the lug nuts. If you notice, there are seven lugs on the hub cap. When you take that off, there will be eight lugs on the wheel itself. This is a standard hub cap for the ...


0

CV joints will clack. Wheel bearings will grind, often only in one direction. CV joints will also have lash.


2

I'm sure it is delaminating from its support structure. You could possibly take the air bag out and glue the surface back to its support structure. You'd need something like Gorilla Glue and a boat load of tape to keep it down while it is curing. You'll want to do it soon, though, before it gets too warped. Once it's too far out of shape it won't stay down, ...


2

As Paul says, this is highly subjective - the only concrete answer is "pull it on enough to hold the car". The very fact you're asking this suggests to me that it almost certainly needs adjusting.... You should adjust the handbrake (or have it adjusted) so that it is fully engaged (i.e. you can't turn the rear wheels by hand, with them jacked up off the ...


2

I'm not going to say anything about the dealership you mention that a quick Google of review sites for them wouldn't reveal anyway. Yes, knocking is an early sign of the dual-mass clutch-flywheel assembly beginning to wear out. How long you will have between audible knocking and replacement is hard to predict. If you are unsure or unhappy about your main ...


0

The nature of your problem suggests a vacuum leak and the gas smell suggests an evaporative emissions control (EVAP) leak. Might be worth a check.


0

Plug an ODB2 reader and check for any fault codes. Might be related to the coils/plugs like Joel said, could also be a fuel trim issue caused by bad O2 sensors. An ODB2 reader would let you check all of this. Could just be the idle valve on the Throttle body. Do you still have the stock TB? Would be worth a try to swap them. If not, make sure it's clean.


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Amelio: You can try changing the ignition coil and the spark plugs. I had a similar issue a few days ago, and we found out that the ignition coil had one bad terminal, and the spark plug located in that terminal, was a little wet... Give it a try! I'm a Ford Mustang 2004 v6 3.8L owner from El Salvador..


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If I'm understanding the question correctly, I don't think you have any major problems. The AC is going to drip water which has condensed on the evaporator core during use. This is completely normal. Since you can only cause this to happen with the AC on, I'd suggest you have one or two issues. This is directly related to the serpentine belt. Either the ...



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