New answers tagged

2

You could try a flexible epoxy or something like a cloth/heavy-duty repair tape: http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-clear-repair or https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/tenacious-tape#10691


3

If you're serious about increasing power, you will have to spend some serious money to do it. The car is usually tuned from the factory to output an acceptable amount of power while maintaining good fuel economy. Installing a Cold Air or Short Ram Intake (CAI or SRI) system, a less restrictive exhaust, a piggyback ECU, and getting the car tuned by a ...


2

You cannot easily "tap" into any ECU/PCM. Depending on what year your vehicle is, it could be a simple set of analog gauges which you could tap into the signal line, but you'll need to do some hardware design to convert the signals to usable data. If it's a newer vehicle, you'll have to deal with the canbus protocol and that will be very difficult. Your ...


2

If your car has a OBD2/ODBII port then it is achievable. I'd imaging the simplest way would be to use a ELM327 type cable or even a bluetooth adapter to provide the interface between the pi and the car.


2

To affirm Max's answer, yes this shouldn't be too difficult. Here's a great link to get you started http://www.cowfishstudios.com/blog/obd-pi-raspberry-pi-displaying-car-diagnostics-obd-ii-data-on-an-aftermarket-head-unit Very cool project, it'll be interesting to see how it turns out for you.


1

If it just died without any loud noises or the wheels locking up, and still cranks by key or by hand, then it's almost definitely not seized. It could be a number of things, like timing belt, lack of fuel/spark, or sensor failure. As suggested, connecting it to diagnostic computer may be helpful to point you in the right direction.


4

If you can turn the engine over using the starter, the engine is not seized. Just because it died after such an event, doesn't mean it is going to do that. Definitely not good for the engine, but it doesn't mean it's seized. It really depends on how the engine died to tell you what exactly happened. If it just quit without any loud bang or loss of engine ...


3

If you have 16.5" diameter rims, and wish to retain them, then you must match the exact inner rim diameter with replacement tires. Never attempt to "get by" with a 16" or 17" tire on a 16.5 rims. Similar things were attempted for a very short while when metric diameter wheels were brought briefly to the US, and then stocks of tires vanished with the ill-...


4

I know this is an old thread, but Elon Musk tweeted a video of some people in Kazakhstan driving their Tesla through deep water. He then told that the Tesla can indeed operate as a boat, as the drive units and battery are sealed. But of course, you could still get water in the AC and into the cabin. Then you would probably have to change all air filters, ...


2

No, it doesn't necessarily mean you need to buy a new engine. Although if you don't get it seen to, you will be in the market for one soon enough. Generally speaking, as @user3188168 said, it's quite likely that it's the head gasket that's split, allowing some oil into the cooling system. The head gasket will need changing, and your radiator will need a ...


3

Depending on the cause of the fluids mixing: buying a new engine would be the most extreme of the possible repairs. The simplest repair for this would likely be a gasket replacement, which may still be quite costly, since (for example) head gaskets require taking apart most of the engine to replace.


1


0

I don't know about the Probe in particular, but I know some cars have a crankshaft position sensor that tells the ECU that the engine is turning over, and they won't turn on the fuel pump if they aren't getting a signal from that sensor. I'd also recommend checking your relays. Since it was an intermittent fault I'd suspect relays before fuses, but fuses can ...


2

I'm not sure if these are the correct items, but you could find/make some kind of insert to hold the nozzle in place? I supposed you could also cut the filler neck from a car in the scrap yard and adapt it to your truck, but I imagine you don't want to stray too far from the OEM setup (or if it is even legal to do so).


2

looking at tire rack. Searched by rim (wheel) size. Came up with 3 results. 8.75R16.5 9.5R16.5 37x12.5R16.5 The 9.5R16.5 looks somewhat close in size at 30.6x9.5. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Transforce+HT&partnum=950R65THT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes


4

My first questions for you? Isn't that a new car, still under factory warranty? What did the dealership tell you? (What year is the car? what is the mileage?) If not, that sure looks like a wiring issue to me, based on that tachometer dropout. Loose ground? Intermittent short or disconnect to the crank (and / or cam) position sensor? Note the crank (...


5

Tires, or a front wheel has thrown a balancing weight would be my first assumption. Examine both front tires for uneven wear, "cupping" (scalloped depressions where tread gets shallow in evenly spaced pockets around the circumference). If the tires appear fine everywhere, it may simply be that a balancing weight has come off. After that, there might be a ...


1

Well, it turns out that the 1996 Ford E350 doesn't have a Mass Air Flow sensor - hence the trouble finding it :-) Instead, it has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, which looks like this: And can be found here: Thanks for your help with this!


2

It should be on or near the air cleaner assembly. It looks like a square thing with a 60 pin connector on it http://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-f250-how-to-clean-a-faulty-mass-airflow-sensor-361730


0

That's a classic Ford problem. I doubt it's an object, but perhaps dirt, leaves, or deteriorating foam surround door seals. Try and twist the fluted knob with the actuator off. If the blend door resists, you are going to have to isolate the restriction in travel. People have soaked the area with WD-40 or similar with some success, but I don't recommend ...


3

You have a couple common parts Switches - supplies power to the motor Regulator - gears and tracks motor (or crank) - moves the regulator Sometimes you can take the door panel off and grease the channels up a bit and it will help. I will use WD-40, silicon spray, white lithium grease, garage door lube, etc. and it has helped with some of my windows that ...


0

Following up with the resolution: I was right about the diagnosis. The rubber hose joining the filler neck to the fuel tank was deteriorated and cracked. The same was true of the vapor return hose. I was wrong about the cost of repair. I was charged about $375 in labor and $335 in parts, for a total of $810 (USD). The main labor cost was for removing ...


1

Get rid of that flapper air cleaner system, unless you live somewhere with a winter that insists you have it. Plug the manifold hole. OR... Get a pro to braze the riser tube, most likely done while still on the truck. OR... Get a calm and mellow person to carefully drill/tap the exhaust manifold, to install a compression to male NPT adapter fitting with a ...


0

I'd suggest cutting the low beam headlight wire and intercepting the ground signal wire at the switch. So as to bypass the body control module altogether, unless you want to retain autolamps.


0

Thanks all. The daytime running light at 7v and fulllow beam headlight at 12v is run on the same wire. The high beam is a second wire. If I cut the wire I would have no headlights. I will be using LEDs for the daytime running lights hooked up to a 12v ignition source. I just need to drop tge 7v on the main headlight wire so the HIDs are not on at all ...


0

The easist thing would be to remove the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) resistor and leave that connection open. Most F150s this simply unplugs as a module. If you ever change your mind you simply plug it back in. But I would be very hesitant to run my HID ignitor modules on 7v all the time. Without knowing what year of truck, I can't tell you where exactly ...


5

Whoa. Your 1988 F150 is TOTALLY NOT set up to run "flex fuel" E85. Please, don't do that. Just don't. Basically you are suggesting running your vehicle on 85% moonshine. Truth is, due to some hygroscopic stuff and regulatory nonsense, it might only be 75% alcohol. ETOH, ethyl alcohol, ethanol, moonshine, flex fuel, corn fuel, boogie juice. Whatever ...


2

The first thing to check is the fuel filter. The ethanol can dislodge dirt etc in the tank that's been sitting there, and will go into the filter. I've often found that when running e85 the first few weeks/months you need to change the filter a couple of times. But beyond that, is the engine tuned to run e85? It has very different combustion properties to ...



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