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1

I think what you are looking for is actually the catalytic converters. If you take a look at the DAVICO MANUFACTURING Part # 59261 you'll see the cats are incorporated into the Y-pipe and gets you what you need. They call it an Exact-Fit Catalytic Converter. I'm sure there are other brands out there as well.


0

The existing oil residue will make it difficult to tell the source of the leak. I suggest you clean the entire area (copious amounts of brake cleaner usually does a decent job) and then run the vehicle a little to see if you can trace the source of the leak.


2

Considering that I think it could be the front main seal in the transmission, doing the pan gasket is not only an easier job to do, but you can also change the filter while you are there. If the pan gasket fixes it, you're golden. If it doesn't, changing out the pan gasket and filter is not expensive and could probably use the change anyway. If you don't ...


1

Yes, this would just be the differential seal leaking. Unfortunately, it is a little harder to replace than just pulling the drive shaft and input yoke and replacing the seal. There is a value called preload which must be applied to the nut which holds the yoke onto the pinion gear. If this is not applied correctly, the rear-end has a propensity to start ...


1

I think this is most likely the switch, mainly due to it not working on either mirror. You can more than likely test the switch theory by pulling the switch out and jumping the leads directly to see if movement occurs one either of the mirrors in the direction you desire. I don't have a layout of the wiring, so I would first find where the power lead is at ...


3

This could be the clutch as you seem to suspect. The effect of the clutch not separating the engine from the gearbox fully is that the input shaft never stops rotating when in neutral. If you have noticed the clutch pedal not releasing as high as before, this is likely. If it's the synchronizer that's bad, moving into second gear and then first should help. ...


2

It sounds as though the first gear synchro is or has gone out. This is a part within the transmission. The part allows the gears on both sides of the transmission (drive/driven) to mesh correctly. It is a wear item which is designed to take the abuse instead of the gears. If fixing this is not in the near future, you can try something which might help get ...


0

Have you tried a different key? If the key isn't turning, it's not the fault of the anti-theft, it's a mechanical problem with the key and locking mechanism. The security light is going to flash until you are able to turn the key in the ignition. You may try jiggling the steering wheel a little and see if that will allow the key to turn.


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As Dan says in the comments, have you tried a different battery? If you have power to the lights, you should have power to the starter, but a poor battery may not give enough power to fire the solenoid. The other possibility is that the shaking you have mentioned has caused one of the leads going to the starter to fail. There should be two cables attached ...


0

The only thing which I can think of which might be making any noise is the clutch itself. When you get to 5th gear, which I believe is an overdrive gear in the Ranger, you are applying a lot more torque at the clutch. If it wasn't bedded correctly, it could be slipping in this higher gear, thus causing the noise you describe.


1

I would suggest that your power steering pump is done or it might be the entire rack-and-pinion is shot as well. Power steering should be happening now at a stand still, not when you are moving. In fact, while you are moving, it may feel there is power steering because the wheels will move left to right and back much easier without the assist of power ...


3

The rust your photo depicts is normal for the steel components on any vehicle. New or used. You can go review the undersides of new vehicles at a car lot and see that many will show rust right off the delivery truck. Most of the cast steel components will show signs of iron oxide anywhere in the country. Oxygen and Iron is all that it really takes. ...


0

Might be a possible alternator failure. You can check the battery voltage. It should be ~12V when not working and ~14ish on idle. This kind of faulty alternator causes something like that.


1

The seals may be worn or deflated (not as puffy as they used to be) and are allowing the dust to come through. As a fix, you could try something (vs replacement) I saw on a TV show recently. They added a slender piece of rubber inside of the seal to make it stick out more. Something like this: This is 1/4" tubing. The seal should have an air gap inside of ...


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Is it not cranking even? If not, then I strongly suggest a hard reset of ECU and Engine Immobiliser.


2

It's possible the belts inside one of the tires is broken. With brand new tires, likely a manufacturing defect. A broken belt will make the car feel as you describe, and can be mistaken for the tires being out of balance. I've had this happen before. In my case, the tire was old and I hit too many potholes. One of the unique symptoms I remember is the ...


0

Check youtube I have a video out there on how to do the plugs and ignition coils https://youtu.be/_j8P6VjO9Os Plugs ignition coils


1

I would assume that's the security check light. Not sure what caused your issues to start with (other than a dead battery), but sounds like the car has lost track of the key(s) and now is in 'secure' mode. You'll probably have to have a Ford tech look at it with a scanner to figure out what the problem is and how to fix.


1

Ok. So, I'm a little embarrassed since this solution was simple. Here's what I figured out: You'll notice, if you're reading / attempting this, that running a self test of your EATC (by pressing Floor+Off Simultaneously, releasing and then pressing Automatic button within a second or two.) will likely generate a 6622 error code (Blend Door Malfunction.) ...


0

I had looked at this and didn't realize it was an Escape. A friend of mine has one with the exact same problem. I would put money on it not being the sensor, but the connector you've cleaned. Not that cleaning it would have caused any further issues. This is a common problem with the Escapes. The easiest way to fix the issue is to remove the connector all ...


2

Three things I can think of which haven't been mentioned: Check to ensure there isn't a plastic bag or some other debris which might have become lodged in front of the radiator. May seem obvious, but an obstruction like that can cause a huge reduction in cooling. Get a new radiator cap. If the old one is not allowing for enough pressure to build up, this ...


1

As DucatiKiller already said, probably too less coolant in your system. Check if the level is at "full" and definitely not anything underneath "low" on the indicator of the coolant reservoir. Depending on the area where you live, it's better to use coolant with anti-freeze in it. Take care not to overfill it though. You could have a leak in the radiator or ...



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