New answers tagged ford
So finally (on the third trip to the garage) they found a fault code. It was the MAP Sensor. Getting it replaced. Fingers crossed that is the end of the problem. Time will tell.
Kind of a shot in the dark with the information given, but here is where I would start.. When you have the A/C on, the ECU will typically raise the idle to compensate for the extra load. I am thinking you have a dirty throttle body, that is not allowing enough air to get through to allow it to idle properly. When the ECU raises the idle, it is now letting ...
I have experience on similar situation. It was -20 degree Celsius and engine was choked on my case. As people indicated your problem could be the fuel pump. Trapped water (ice) inside the gas tank can cause failure of the pump. You may need to check if fuel pressure is ok on the engine side. This may help. Fiat Punto Wont Start. Fuel Light & Three ...
I also experienced the same thing with my jeep. I tried to correct the fault myself by loosened up the idler pulley bolt,turned the adjustment screw clockwise bringing the idler towards the belt it makes the belt tighter. Now no more squealing. It hardly took 5 minutes for me to correct the problem.
This situation could be Transmission Flare. The engine control briefly ups the RPM to match the transmission downshifting, to prevent an abrupt downshift feel. If the control or sensing systems are out of whack, it can overdo the RPM adjustment. Some of the items you replaced require adjustment or calibration. For example, the Idle Air Controller (a prime ...
As was pointed out, the outer diameter isn't quite the same, but it's not a major problem. The sole distinction I would be worried about would be load range. For example, an E350 van most likely wants to have a LT, E load rated set of tires installed. However, if the tires on your Savanna are P rated (i.e. not Light Truck), I would not install those on your ...
https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Diameter is 4% smaller Width is about 9% smaller Since you are going to a smaller tire... The speedometer will read higher than your actual speed by about 4% You will not need to worry about rubbing. Traction may be less, but should be sufficient. I am not familiar with tire pressure monitoring systems, so I cannot comment ...
Yes, easy job third row seats, four torx bolts per seat through the slides. Tape over the holes so the screws don't bottom out on the structure below. Lots more useable space.
Two key observations (no pun intended): jumping the solenoid starts the engine dashboard lights stay on even with the key out This tells me that the ignition circuitry is not following the key position in the ignition barrel. This could be due to a bad ignition switch or break in the associated wiring.
I took it to a main dealer who diagnosed that the battery needed a replacement. Now a quick test with the blowers doesn't seem to show any voltage loss as before.
There are really two routes; dealership and third party (a normal garage mechanic). Dealership If you were to get it done at the dealership, you can expect to pay 10-30% more on top of what an independent garage might charge you. The advantage to going this route is that generally you are going to get what you pay for when it comes to a turbo replacement. ...
If I recall correctly, the engine was designed by Peugeot/Citroen (PSA) but made by Ford in Ford’s London factory. see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_HDi_engine and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratorq_engine and
It's a little unclear what you're asking for, but your car has this engine: Ford DLD. It is a inline, 4 cylinder Diesel engine with a turbocharger, but it most likely doesn't have an intercooler. The 1.4 part is the "displacement" of the engine, and it is basically the "size" of the engine. This model engine is referred to as "DV4 TD" or "DLD-414".
The Escapes are known to have an issue with the seat connection on the passenger side. This is the connection which goes to the seat to see if someone is sitting in the seat (if nobody's in the seat, the pass side air bag won't deploy). Under the seat there is a wire which will go down from the seat bottom to about the middle underneath of it. Try to see if ...
In this case replacing the fuel filter for new seems to have done the trick. I was able to find one for roughly £27 on eBay and fitted it myself in under 45 minutes. Thought I'd leave the information here in case anyone else has the same issue.
It depends on a ton of things and it won't be linear in most cases. Every car has different things that wear out at different rates and those things affect horsepower differently as they age. Not everything that wears affects power. A coolant hose that wears out might cause the engine to overheat, but it won't affect power until then. But vacuum hoses can ...
I suppose you could do what Roadkill did with their rear-engined Mazda pickup and place it in the truck bed with some duct work (or better, auxiliary electric fans) to keep air flowing across the condenser. The problem, as @Paulster2 highlights is that the ability of the AC system to reject heat will be impacted by how much air can flow through the ...
The problem with moving the AC condenser is that it won't do the job. You have to have air flow through it for it to work. Placing it anywhere besides in front of the radiator would be like not having be it at all. My suggestion to you is to redesign the mount for you grill so you have room to mount the condenser, yet not move the grill. The condenser isn't ...
There won't be a fault with the windscreen. If it was drawing excessive current, then the fuse for this circuit would blow. There could possibly be a fault with you alternator, in that it is not able to provide the current being drawn by the windscreen, this will then cause the battery to discharge. Another possibility is that the idle speed control valve ...
According to this article https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics The first ODB systems only lit a dashboard light in the case of a problem with no further information about what the problem was. Those early systems didn't have a port to connect to. That would be why there is a check engine light, but no port. It also refers to the first ODB I ...
In '65, only Mustang GT's and Mustangs equipped with the Deluxe(a/k/a Pony) Interior had an actual ammeter, as opposed to an idiot light. This was an induction-loop ammeter, not the shunt-type ammeter that was used in '66 models and beyond. The hookup is as follows... A BLACK/YELLOW wire runs from the Alternator, through a 3-wire pigtail, under the radiator ...
On most vehicles, the larger the engine the more fuel it burns. The 5.8L size is the displacement (or swept volume) of all the cylinders (eight in your case) added up. When the cylinders fill with the air/fuel mixture, this mixture should be stoichiometric at about 14:1 ratio (no matter what kind of gas/petrol engine you run, this is basically what you are ...
It is a well known problem caused by the softly mounted IRS sub-frame and the differential.
Yes, the air that is passed through the crankcase ventilation system is metered before it enters the ventilation system. If the pipe is off, un-metered air will be allowed in, which will cause a weak mixture and therefore possible misfiring.
Generally waiting about an hour with will be necessary before the unit will offer you another chance to enter the code. Early Ford and Philips radios can make you wait several hours and it's simply a case of leaving the radio on untouched for as long as it takes for the display to change, indicating that it's ready to take the code. But first be sure that ...
tl dr: There is almost no way to tell from the video what is causing the noise. From the video it sounds like an exhaust leak causing the tick ... but smartphone video is notorious for not giving an accurate sound representation, so this is what you need to do. If you have a Harbor Freight somewhere close to you, go down and purchase an automotive ...
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