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13

Lets start with the fact that Ford doesn't make anti-freeze, they buy it in. It will have certain specs of course but so does all anti-freeze. It will also be made by one of the major producers of the product. If you can find the Ford specs you could compare it to other brands. Alternatively, contact the makers of different brands of anti-freeze and ask them ...


10

It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring. The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls. ...


9

Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure. Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...


8

Drum brakes are cheaper to manufacture than disc brakes, because there are fewer moving parts and because in the rear the parking brake (which often works by a drum-and-shoe mechanism even on four-wheel-disc-equipped cars) can share a drum with the "regular" brakes. All other things being equal, discs work better than drums, especially in wet conditions. ...


7

Apparently one of the car wash employee accidentally put the truck in 4x4 high when cleaning the dash. I didn't notice the indicator and the locking diff was causing the change in handling


7

Most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engines power is not being transmitted to the transmission. Cost of a clutch replacement is to varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much more ...


7

How old is the battery? If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement. 5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime. At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.


6

I wouldn't be too bothered by the fact that it'll need a new cambelt at the next service, but I might use this for additional leverage when negotiating. As to what the odds of failure are, do you feel lucky? I'm pretty sure the Focus has an interference engine so if the belt breaks, the pistons will attempt to occupy the same space as the valves, with ...


6

The new tyres would indeed be narrower and slightly taller - the first number is the width in mm, so the second tyre is 10mm (3/8") narrower than the first, and the second is the height as a percentage of the width, which works out at roughly 96mm and 103mm respectively. Just to mix things up even more, the third number is the wheel diameter in inches... ...


6

It sounds like they're trying to take you for a ride to me. I can't see how driving style could cause the slave cylinder to fail - they're separated by a mechanical linkage. I would also dispute that anyone could destroy a clutch with 32k of normal driving - I'd expect it to last at least twice that long. However, a leaking cylinder might cause ...


5

Antifreeze is a blend of several different ingredients: the antifreeze/coolant active ingredient, (mostly) water, corrosion inhibitors to prevent the water from rusting away the inside of your engine, and a secret blend of herbs and spices that's particular to each manufacturer. There are several different choices for the active ingredient (ethylene ...


5

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. If you pump up the pedal with your foot, it might retain pressure for you to drive for a while, but after it sits, the symptoms will return. Time to replace the clutch master cylinder or check for brake line leaks.


5

The heater in a water-cooled car relies on coolant from the engine. Lack of heat together with an overheating engine suggest a cooling system problem. I suggest the following: Check the coolant level. If you're lucky, you're just low on coolant. The question then becomes: where did it go? Is there a leak? Are you burning coolant (sometimes seen as white ...


5

Most cars use the same light to let you know there is a problem with the brakes, or the fluid level. While watching the light push down and release the emergency brake see if you see the light flicker. If you do it's not the emergency brake that is turning the light on, if not check the switch on the emergency brake usually on the e-brake handle or pedal. ...


5

Using a flare nut wrench (aka line wrench) should be used if it is calling for it. The reasoning for using a flare wrench over an open ended wrench is that you can grip all sides of the fitting just like you can with a box wrench but the opening at the end of the wrench allows you to slip over the connected hose/line unlike a box wrench. This allows you to ...


5

My first thought is to clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control (IAC) motor passages with carburetor or throttle body cleaner. They get a black buildup on the edge of the throttle plate and IAC passages that interferes with the idle speed regulation.


5

I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).


5

Try pulling it when the engine is hot. A that point the metals might have expanded a little and you might actually get it out.


5

The most likely cause is the valve cover gasket. You can try to tighten the bolts that hold the cover, but most likely the gasket or seal needs to be replaced.


5

Valve covers are a popular leak spot, across all vehicle makes and models.


5

Been there, done that on a 2.0L Zetech. Make sure you got all the bolts. I'm only seeing two holes on the bottom row (should be three, right?). Make sure nothing else is screwed into the valve cover that could be holding it down. Hilsons is right about your manual saying to loosen the timing cover bolts. I managed to get one off without doing so ...


5

since installing new 02 sensor engine light has not reappeared after clearing w/obd2 device and torque free app. TOTAL COST= ~$27 7 31 13 ordered Koolertron F-12 ELM 327 OBDII PC Car Diagnostic Scanner Electronics EggDeal via amazon $9.50 to use w/android smartphone torque free app to read & clear obd codes 8 10 12 friend sprayed hoses he knew to be ...


5

I believe that you're talking about the Fuel Vent Canister / EVAP Canister. It is located underneath the vehicle and mounts to the drivers-side frame rail slightly behind the drivers side door area (about the center of the vehicle). Here is a photo for you to compare the part to.


5

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...


4

Upon examination it became immediately obvious what the issue was; the front passenger sway bar link had snapped off at the top, losing its head and both top bushings. The clunk was presumably caused by the remnants of the sway bar link (still attached to the lower control arm) impacting the sway bar during turns with bumps or inclines. A replacement sway ...


4

The blend air doors on the Windstar are vacuum controlled. The default position is defrost (windshield vents), meaning that if you loose vacuum supply it changes to defrost position. Look for a vacuum hose going through the firewall and trace it to where it hooks up to the intake manifold. It goes through a one way check valve and it teed into a vacuum ...


4

Should be able to remove the bolts as long as they don't hold anything to them. Even if there is something attached you can remove them to detach the rest of the shield and then reattach. Either way, removing your heat shield is not what you should focus on, but instead installing a new one. Your exhaust gets really hot and the shield is not just for ...


4

As Larry said, check the throttle body and the IAC, but I'd also check for vacuum leaks.


4

There are two usual problems associated with latches failing to latch. The first (and simplest) is an alignment problem - if the striker is too far from the latch, it will never trigger it and thus it won't latch. You can test this by getting hold of something a similar diameter to the striker (such as a screwdriver) and trying to use that to trigger the ...


4

There are quite a few different rubber hoses in the average engine bay - have you check to make sure none are in contact with anything hot? Especially any that run near to the exhaust manifold. For that matter, if you can get under it, check the entire exhaust to make sure nothing is in contact with it that shouldn't be. You've mentioned the belt which ...



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