Hot answers tagged ford
12
Lets start with the fact that Ford doesn't make anti-freeze, they buy it in. It will have certain specs of course but so does all anti-freeze. It will also be made by one of the major producers of the product. If you can find the Ford specs you could compare it to other brands. Alternatively, contact the makers of different brands of anti-freeze and ask them ...
10
It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring.
The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls.
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9
Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure.
Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...
6
I wouldn't be too bothered by the fact that it'll need a new cambelt at the next service, but I might use this for additional leverage when negotiating.
As to what the odds of failure are, do you feel lucky? I'm pretty sure the Focus has an interference engine so if the belt breaks, the pistons will attempt to occupy the same space as the valves, with ...
6
The new tyres would indeed be narrower and slightly taller - the first number is the width in mm, so the second tyre is 10mm (3/8") narrower than the first, and the second is the height as a percentage of the width, which works out at roughly 96mm and 103mm respectively. Just to mix things up even more, the third number is the wheel diameter in inches...
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5
Using a flare nut wrench (aka line wrench) should be used if it is calling for it.
The reasoning for using a flare wrench over an open ended wrench is that you can grip all sides of the fitting just like you can with a box wrench but the opening at the end of the wrench allows you to slip over the connected hose/line unlike a box wrench.
This allows you to ...
5
Most cars use the same light to let you know there is a problem with the brakes, or the fluid level. While watching the light push down and release the emergency brake see if you see the light flicker. If you do it's not the emergency brake that is turning the light on, if not check the switch on the emergency brake usually on the e-brake handle or pedal.
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5
The heater in a water-cooled car relies on coolant from the engine. Lack of heat together with an overheating engine suggest a cooling system problem. I suggest the following:
Check the coolant level. If you're lucky, you're just low on coolant. The question then becomes: where did it go? Is there a leak? Are you burning coolant (sometimes seen as white ...
5
Been there, done that on a 2.0L Zetech.
Make sure you got all the bolts. I'm only seeing two holes on the bottom row (should be three, right?). Make sure nothing else is screwed into the valve cover that could be holding it down. Hilsons is right about your manual saying to loosen the timing cover bolts. I managed to get one off without doing so ...
4
Antifreeze is a blend of several different ingredients: the antifreeze/coolant active ingredient, (mostly) water, corrosion inhibitors to prevent the water from rusting away the inside of your engine, and a secret blend of herbs and spices that's particular to each manufacturer.
There are several different choices for the active ingredient (ethylene ...
4
Upon examination it became immediately obvious what the issue was; the front passenger sway bar link had snapped off at the top, losing its head and both top bushings. The clunk was presumably caused by the remnants of the sway bar link (still attached to the lower control arm) impacting the sway bar during turns with bumps or inclines.
A replacement sway ...
4
Should be able to remove the bolts as long as they don't hold anything to them. Even if there is something attached you can remove them to detach the rest of the shield and then reattach. Either way, removing your heat shield is not what you should focus on, but instead installing a new one. Your exhaust gets really hot and the shield is not just for ...
4
The blend air doors on the Windstar are vacuum controlled. The default position is defrost (windshield vents), meaning that if you loose vacuum supply it changes to defrost position.
Look for a vacuum hose going through the firewall and trace it to where it hooks up to the intake manifold. It goes through a one way check valve and it teed into a vacuum ...
4
There are two usual problems associated with latches failing to latch.
The first (and simplest) is an alignment problem - if the striker is too far from the latch, it will never trigger it and thus it won't latch. You can test this by getting hold of something a similar diameter to the striker (such as a screwdriver) and trying to use that to trigger the ...
4
There are quite a few different rubber hoses in the average engine bay - have you check to make sure none are in contact with anything hot? Especially any that run near to the exhaust manifold.
For that matter, if you can get under it, check the entire exhaust to make sure nothing is in contact with it that shouldn't be. You've mentioned the belt which ...
4
Usually coolant temperature problems as you described (without leaks) are caused by any of the following or a combination thereof:
Partially blocked or missing ducting to the radiator so either not enough air reaches the radiator or it goes past the radiator instead of through it. This should be relatively easy to eyeball.
Thermostat not opening fully (or ...
4
Grumbling noises while turning are usually CV joints. There are 4 of these (one each end of each drive shaft), but he usual culprit is the outer one on the side that is causing the noise - i.e. in this case the right hand one.
To check, jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. grip the drive shaft firmly in one hand (wear gloves...), and ...
4
If you've never done your own work, I wouldn't recommend the first two as your first venture. You should make your own call, of course. The third sounds fishy and I wouldn't address it at all without a clearer understanding of what they're trying to sell you.
Just from looking these items over, they look like scheduled maintenance. Those types of tasks ...
4
Check you power lines voltage at range of revs, it could be that your voltage stabilizer is malfunctioning and given higher voltage than it should.
I had similar case with my Skoda, the lights (cockpit, headlights and everything else) would glow lighter the more revs motor did. It was noticeable to the eye at night. Lightbulbs are sensitive to voltage and ...
4
I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).
4
The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees ...
4
Even if there is a "common area" of oil leaks it wouldn't make sense to change a part based on the most common failure. You need to find out where you car is leaking so you don't make a needless repair that could easily cost you hundreds of dollars.
I would get a second estimate on locating the oil leak. Dye tests don't cost hundreds of dollars. The "Dye ...
4
It appears to be a Rostra unit their site http://www.rostra.com/rostra-support.php has an extensive support page. That is why I asked about the tail lights, they mentioned it. I would go to the site input you vehicle info and click the support tab. They will give you step by step instructions included are calibration steps, which may be your issue.
4
Ahh, cold starts. In the DIY ECU world, this is always the most difficult part of tuning a vehicle. One reason is that the engine is horribly inefficient at low temperatures, and requires a very narrowly defined amount of fuel. Too much and it eventually bogs down and dies. Too little and it dies as well. Then if the engine's warmed up at all during this, ...
4
There is a laundry list of things that can cause these problems.
Grounding issues.
Alternator
Battery Connections
Computer
Faulty wiring
To be honest it can be a nightmare trying to sort these things out, and you are better off taking it to a automotive electriction who can plug in diagnostic tools, and take it out for a test drive to replicate the ...
4
There are two ways to tell. Your local ford dealer can tell by decoding the VIN (the vehicle indentification number). It is usually located on the dashboard at the base of the windshield on the drivers side. If you look under the hood there is usually a sticker on the frame near the radiator that will say complies with California or 49 state emissions. The ...
3
As suggested by jzd in a comment, try removing the key when in Neutral rather than Park.
If trying while in Park, try to ensure you are in Park and the car knows that it's in Park. Does anything else usually happen when Park is engaged? A dashlight or something else to indicate that the car knows it is in Park.
Another thing to try is giving the steering ...
3
That sounds like a clutch that's reached the end of the line. If you're applying throttle and the rev's start to climb faster than the car is accelerating then the clutch is slipping.
A clutch can go that quickly... depends on driver skill. I've seen clutches last 180k and still look fresh. There are other folks that have destroyed their clutches in less ...
3
What about these lights as I discovered in this question
CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS
Or this one
Looks like you just drill a hole for this one
3
Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem: the slave cylinder. I had an older Triumph that needed both ends fixed to finally fix the clutch.
It turned out the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals. Having the slave re-sleeved (and new seals!) was also ...
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