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13

Lets start with the fact that Ford doesn't make anti-freeze, they buy it in. It will have certain specs of course but so does all anti-freeze. It will also be made by one of the major producers of the product. If you can find the Ford specs you could compare it to other brands. Alternatively, contact the makers of different brands of anti-freeze and ask them ...


11

Use some Sugru on it It's rubbery in consistency so it won't just snap off when you drop your keys. Use a piece of metal or plastic for the "crossbar" and sugru around it.


10

It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring. The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls. ...


9

Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual. This might cause premature failure. Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but ...


8

Drum brakes are cheaper to manufacture than disc brakes, because there are fewer moving parts and because in the rear the parking brake (which often works by a drum-and-shoe mechanism even on four-wheel-disc-equipped cars) can share a drum with the "regular" brakes. All other things being equal, discs work better than drums, especially in wet conditions. ...


7

Apparently one of the car wash employee accidentally put the truck in 4x4 high when cleaning the dash. I didn't notice the indicator and the locking diff was causing the change in handling


7

Most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engines power is not being transmitted to the transmission. Cost of a clutch replacement is to varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much more ...


7

How old is the battery? If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement. 5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime. At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.


7

That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly. ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, ...


6

I wouldn't be too bothered by the fact that it'll need a new cambelt at the next service, but I might use this for additional leverage when negotiating. As to what the odds of failure are, do you feel lucky? I'm pretty sure the Focus has an interference engine so if the belt breaks, the pistons will attempt to occupy the same space as the valves, with ...


6

The new tyres would indeed be narrower and slightly taller - the first number is the width in mm, so the second tyre is 10mm (3/8") narrower than the first, and the second is the height as a percentage of the width, which works out at roughly 96mm and 103mm respectively. Just to mix things up even more, the third number is the wheel diameter in inches... ...


6

It sounds like they're trying to take you for a ride to me. I can't see how driving style could cause the slave cylinder to fail - they're separated by a mechanical linkage. I would also dispute that anyone could destroy a clutch with 32k of normal driving - I'd expect it to last at least twice that long. However, a leaking cylinder might cause ...


6

Why not build up the back of the key with araldite [epoxy] and then drill that?


5

Antifreeze is a blend of several different ingredients: the antifreeze/coolant active ingredient, (mostly) water, corrosion inhibitors to prevent the water from rusting away the inside of your engine, and a secret blend of herbs and spices that's particular to each manufacturer. There are several different choices for the active ingredient (ethylene ...


5

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. If you pump up the pedal with your foot, it might retain pressure for you to drive for a while, but after it sits, the symptoms will return. Time to replace the clutch master cylinder or check for brake line leaks.


5

The heater in a water-cooled car relies on coolant from the engine. Lack of heat together with an overheating engine suggest a cooling system problem. I suggest the following: Check the coolant level. If you're lucky, you're just low on coolant. The question then becomes: where did it go? Is there a leak? Are you burning coolant (sometimes seen as white ...


5

Most cars use the same light to let you know there is a problem with the brakes, or the fluid level. While watching the light push down and release the emergency brake see if you see the light flicker. If you do it's not the emergency brake that is turning the light on, if not check the switch on the emergency brake usually on the e-brake handle or pedal. ...


5

Using a flare nut wrench (aka line wrench) should be used if it is calling for it. The reasoning for using a flare wrench over an open ended wrench is that you can grip all sides of the fitting just like you can with a box wrench but the opening at the end of the wrench allows you to slip over the connected hose/line unlike a box wrench. This allows you to ...


5

My first thought is to clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control (IAC) motor passages with carburetor or throttle body cleaner. They get a black buildup on the edge of the throttle plate and IAC passages that interferes with the idle speed regulation.


5

If you've never done your own work, I wouldn't recommend the first two as your first venture. You should make your own call, of course. The third sounds fishy and I wouldn't address it at all without a clearer understanding of what they're trying to sell you. Just from looking these items over, they look like scheduled maintenance. Those types of tasks ...


5

I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).


5

Try pulling it when the engine is hot. A that point the metals might have expanded a little and you might actually get it out.


5

The most likely cause is the valve cover gasket. You can try to tighten the bolts that hold the cover, but most likely the gasket or seal needs to be replaced.


5

Even if there is a "common area" of oil leaks it wouldn't make sense to change a part based on the most common failure. You need to find out where you car is leaking so you don't make a needless repair that could easily cost you hundreds of dollars. I would get a second estimate on locating the oil leak. Dye tests don't cost hundreds of dollars. The "Dye ...


5

Valve covers are a popular leak spot, across all vehicle makes and models.


5

Been there, done that on a 2.0L Zetech. Make sure you got all the bolts. I'm only seeing two holes on the bottom row (should be three, right?). Make sure nothing else is screwed into the valve cover that could be holding it down. Hilsons is right about your manual saying to loosen the timing cover bolts. I managed to get one off without doing so ...


5

since installing new 02 sensor engine light has not reappeared after clearing w/obd2 device and torque free app. TOTAL COST= ~$27 7 31 13 ordered Koolertron F-12 ELM 327 OBDII PC Car Diagnostic Scanner Electronics EggDeal via amazon $9.50 to use w/android smartphone torque free app to read & clear obd codes 8 10 12 friend sprayed hoses he knew to be ...


5

I believe that you're talking about the Fuel Vent Canister / EVAP Canister. It is located underneath the vehicle and mounts to the drivers-side frame rail slightly behind the drivers side door area (about the center of the vehicle). Here is a photo for you to compare the part to.


5

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...


5

First... find another garage. White smoke and low compression are NOT symptoms of a bent connecting rod. Also, you CANNOT inspect the connecting rods by removing the head - they're on the opposite (bottom) ends of the pistons. White smoke and low compression are both symptoms of a blown head gasket. That's very classic. It doesn't sound like it's very bad, ...



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