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8

Drum brakes are cheaper to manufacture than disc brakes, because there are fewer moving parts and because in the rear the parking brake (which often works by a drum-and-shoe mechanism even on four-wheel-disc-equipped cars) can share a drum with the "regular" brakes. All other things being equal, discs work better than drums, especially in wet conditions. ...


6

I wouldn't be too bothered by the fact that it'll need a new cambelt at the next service, but I might use this for additional leverage when negotiating. As to what the odds of failure are, do you feel lucky? I'm pretty sure the Focus has an interference engine so if the belt breaks, the pistons will attempt to occupy the same space as the valves, with ...


6

The new tyres would indeed be narrower and slightly taller - the first number is the width in mm, so the second tyre is 10mm (3/8") narrower than the first, and the second is the height as a percentage of the width, which works out at roughly 96mm and 103mm respectively. Just to mix things up even more, the third number is the wheel diameter in inches... ...


5

Been there, done that on a 2.0L Zetech. Make sure you got all the bolts. I'm only seeing two holes on the bottom row (should be three, right?). Make sure nothing else is screwed into the valve cover that could be holding it down. Hilsons is right about your manual saying to loosen the timing cover bolts. I managed to get one off without doing so ...


5

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. If you pump up the pedal with your foot, it might retain pressure for you to drive for a while, but after it sits, the symptoms will return. Time to replace the clutch master cylinder or check for brake line leaks.


5

I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).


5

If you've never done your own work, I wouldn't recommend the first two as your first venture. You should make your own call, of course. The third sounds fishy and I wouldn't address it at all without a clearer understanding of what they're trying to sell you. Just from looking these items over, they look like scheduled maintenance. Those types of tasks ...


5

since installing new 02 sensor engine light has not reappeared after clearing w/obd2 device and torque free app. TOTAL COST= ~$27 7 31 13 ordered Koolertron F-12 ELM 327 OBDII PC Car Diagnostic Scanner Electronics EggDeal via amazon $9.50 to use w/android smartphone torque free app to read & clear obd codes 8 10 12 friend sprayed hoses he knew to be ...


4

Grumbling noises while turning are usually CV joints. There are 4 of these (one each end of each drive shaft), but he usual culprit is the outer one on the side that is causing the noise - i.e. in this case the right hand one. To check, jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. grip the drive shaft firmly in one hand (wear gloves...), and ...


4

There are two usual problems associated with latches failing to latch. The first (and simplest) is an alignment problem - if the striker is too far from the latch, it will never trigger it and thus it won't latch. You can test this by getting hold of something a similar diameter to the striker (such as a screwdriver) and trying to use that to trigger the ...


4

Should be able to remove the bolts as long as they don't hold anything to them. Even if there is something attached you can remove them to detach the rest of the shield and then reattach. Either way, removing your heat shield is not what you should focus on, but instead installing a new one. Your exhaust gets really hot and the shield is not just for ...


4

It appears to be a Rostra unit their site http://www.rostra.com/rostra-support.php has an extensive support page. That is why I asked about the tail lights, they mentioned it. I would go to the site input you vehicle info and click the support tab. They will give you step by step instructions included are calibration steps, which may be your issue.


4

It looks like there's a metal plate in your photo still covering part of the valve cover closest to you. I'm betting that's part of your problem. It's also worth noting that in your repair manuel, the upper timing belt cover is also removed first.


4

If replacing the power steering pump triggers a fault code, all you need is one of these to reset it: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS509-Scanner-vehicles/dp/B0056VHZD8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1355944663&sr=1-2&keywords=EOBD+reader Someone can feel free to come along and prove me wrong here because I'm not 100% sure how ...


4

I have a Focus 2010 model and can confirm that Bobs advise is absolutely right. The same thing happened to me this evening when my passenger door when opened wouldn't latch in again (currently outside temp minus 5c). Just 10 seconds using a hair drier on the latch solved the problem for me. I also then sprayed the mechanism with WD40 for good measure. Had ...


4

It if was freezing outside, it was almost certainly colder inside the latch mechanism. It sounds like ice formed on the spring and / or the latch hinge. You were able to use the leverage of the door handle to move the latch against the friction of the ice but then the spring wasn't able to push it back. When something like this happens, I would suggest ...


4

The diagnostic trouble code is not to be looked at as a root cause of the system failure. (example. Replacing a blown fuse is NOT a solution) In all cases there are multiple components that can cause the same code to trigger. For instance, a possible vacuum leak, or EGR problems, and even a PCV issue, could all show o2 sensor readings with tendencies towards ...


3

"Repairs" may be the wrong term, these are more preventative maintenance. These particular items are some that there's a lot of debate in regards to whether or not they're worthwhile. They may be on some particular models, but not others. Power steering flush is not something I ever hear of people doing anymore. However, I'm not a Ford guy, could be ...


3

Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem: the slave cylinder. I had an older Triumph that needed both ends fixed to finally fix the clutch. It turned out the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals. Having the slave re-sleeved (and new seals!) was also ...


3

This sounds like there is an issue with the ground at the battery. Sometimes it appears there is a good connection there (especially when using side post terminals), yet there is only enough of a connection to allow the low amperage stuff to work. Then, when you turn the key, the starter starts to engage, but then continuity is lost because there is not ...


3

Here are the instructions I found from this document. It looks as though you have to program the pump and injectors into the PCU using some type interfacing tool. I would bet this is probably only available through the dealer, though I could be wrong. Check with a local shop, but would bet this is not something you can do at home. The document has several ...


2

The input shaft bearing on the transmission is suspect. That is turning anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed. When you press the clutch the input shaft stops turning. This answer is assuming, based on your question that the noise is constant anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed in. The only time the ...


2

I had a mechanic remove mine on my focus (2003) (it was half off anyway) and it's been fine since winter. I think the car got louder though. You might want to check your front coil springs. I thought the problem was the heat shield, but it turned out I had a broken front right coil spring. Fixing that got rid of the rattle. Don't let a mechanic sell ...


2

As the comments described, you probably plugged in the block heater. Perhaps the heater warmed up the entire engine compartment over time, including the battery. Batteries deliver less current when cold, so it might have been just under the current required to turn the engine. Guess you'll find out if it starts again tomorrow!


2

Most newer vehicles don't come with block heaters installed, so unless you've had one installed it's fairly likely that there is no block heater if you can't find a cord. Alternatively, you could examine the oil pan for a missing cord. If you purchased the car used the previous owner may have had one installed and broke or lost the cord. I had a 2001 Saturn ...


2

I always check RepairPal for estimates on repairs, but that's not going to do you any good since it sound's like you're in the UK. There might be a similar site for your location, but I didn't find it with a quick search. I would expect the timing belt to go about 5 miles after the mileage listed in the service schedule for inspection / replacement. Find ...


2

Here's the maintenance schedule for you vehicle. I don't see any of the suggestions listed and they sound like solutions to problems you don't have. If something is wrong, fix it, but I would ask the dealer what problem you have that these suggestions are supposed to fix? If they were truly preventative, they'd be in the Ford service schedule.


2

For troubleshooting, here are some things to try: Adjust the balance on your stereo to see if you can hear the crackling more to the left or the right, or both. Similarly you can adjust the fade to front / rear to see if the crackling is more in the front or the back. Once you have determined which speaker is causing the crackling, turn the stereo volume ...


2

I'd put a vacuum leak or a failed idle speed controller of some type at the top of my list of suspects. Not familiar with a Focus, but those are common problems that can cause those symptoms as a car ages.


2

Do the test against the curb again with the hood up and look at the belt tensioner. My 2003 Zetec has been through four tensioners so far, and when they go they rattle hard when the engine is under load. If that's what's wrong with yours, you'll be able to see it shake violently in time to the rattling.



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